Ok, so yesterday I crossed the border from Ecuador into Peru, and it ran far from smoothly!
I arrived at immigration, and the bus driver came up and told me to get off the bus, that I needed to get an exit stamp. And so I lined up to do so, turned around, and found the bus was driving off.....with my backpack stowed underneath! Managaed to chase after it with a local, and retrieve my pack, before the bus continued on its journey, leaving me stranded. I must have looked confused, as a local approached me and offered to help. I knew it would come at a small cost, but decided it was worth it. I got my exit stamp, then this man led me through a hectic market to a taxi rank, and we took a taxi about 3km to the Peruvian border control building. I also changed some money with a local moneychanger. At Peruvian immigration, I got an entry stamp.
Then we returned to the taxi. However, I had no idea where we were, or where we were going, only that we were in the middle of no-mans land. I was told we were driving to the nearest town on the Peruvian side, and so I insisted on seeing a map before we left. Happy with what I was shown, we headed off. The drive was 25km, and according to my Lonely planet guide, it should have cost about US$2 in a shared taxi. As I was alone, I banked on maybe US$5. Halfway there, in the middle of no-where, the taxi driver told me it would cost US$30. I told him that was ridiculous, and wouldnt pay it, so he threatened to leave me there. I called his bluff, and I got him down to US$10 - still far too much, but wasnt worth further argument.
We finally arrived in Tumbes, the first Peruvian town South of the border. It was a seedy little place, and not wishing to hang around, I booked a bus to Piura, 5 hours south of Tumbes. However, I went to pay, and after a few confused looks, the teller man refused to take my money - It seems I was given counterfeit currency on the Ecuadorian border! US$100 worth! Not happy! So, I had to go and get out more money - This time from the biggest and most secure looking bank in the area!
Apart from a 2-hour delay with the bus, the rest of the night ran ok. I certainly got a lot of attention on the bus though. I dont think many solo female foreigners take the local bus! Highlight of the bus journey - We passed through a customs check, where four big burly customs police got on board and ordered everyone off the bus, and checked thoroughly the baggage compartments for smuggled goods. I had fallen asleep (it was about 10-30pm), and when they got on the bus, I was still napping in my seat. Two of them stopped next to me, and suddenly smiled. One sat down next to me and started chatting amicably! Then, another pulled out his camera, and insisted on getting a photo with me! They all took turns having a photo taken, whilst the Peruvian locals from the bus looked on, smiling and laughing. I even got one customs officer to pose for a snap on my camera. Afterward, the lead customs official told me with a cheeky grin that the photos were for official customs purposes! It was all quite amusing really, and helped to lighten what was a difficult day.
It is now Saturday morning, and I have enjoyed a breakfast on the rooftop terrace of my hostel in Piura. As for the town, it is nothing too special. There is a small plaza area, which is quite pretty, but its largely a residential/commercial town.
Tonight, I am travelling in style - A two-story bus from Piura to Lima (12 hours) with ´bus-camas´ - bus seats that fully recline into beds! I am quite excited really, as it will be my first ´bus-cama´ experience. On that note, Id better head off and grab something to eat before boarding my palacial bus!
Will update you again soon.
