EPHESUS IS FAMOUS FROM BIBLICAL TIMES. Paul preached the gospel here and John wrote his contribution to the New Testament in Ephesus. After Jesus’ crucifixion., Mary moved here with John and many — heretics no doubt — theorize that Mary Magdalene, wife of Jesus, moved here with her mother-in-law. That said it is the Roman ruins that are so spectacular — that and the shear size of Ephesus. It is huge, more than 1500 meters from one entrance to the next and is an excellent example of a classical Roman city.
Ephesus from above
It was cold when we left the hotel and we are staying so near the site our car heater never caught up. Down jackets, hat, and gloves helped and luckily it was sunny and windless. Except for the middle hour of our five hour stay it seemed like we were the only people there. We are getting good at avoiding the groups of Korean, German, and Chinese tourists.
Searching for our seats
From Alexander through the Romans, Ephesus flourished. Monuments to Trajan, Augustus, and Hadrian line the well laid-out streets along with temples to Artemis and Serapes. The most impressive structures are the library of Celsius which reminds us of the Treasury at Petra and the 25,000 seat amphitheater.
Better than Pompeii?
Our favorite is the “terraced houses,” a covered on-going archaeological dig which requires a separate admission which may be why we and the guys working on the reconstruction were the only ones there. Parts of the fantastic homes are being re-constructed while others, especially mosaics and murals are being restored. The project is being shepherded by Austria and financed by many corporations. Like much of Ephesus, it is difficult to photograph or even describe and most likely it will be impossible to forget.
Hot and crowded, but still one of the best
So I wrote in 2007. And except for the weather — hot, hot, hot today — and the crowds, little has changed. The restoration work in the Terraced Houses continues and is fascinating to see, even if it’s a bit like watching paint dry. Which will have to happen later on.
Everything old . . . . . . is new again
Now that we have traveled throughout much of what was the Roman Empire and have seen many sites, Ephesus isn’t as awesome as we once thought. Overall, Jerash may be more impressive. The nymphaeum at Sagalassos and the theater of Aspendos are in better condition than Ephesus. But the frescoes of the Terraced Houses are a rival for even Pompeii and there is little we have seen to compare with the Library of Celsus. Not to be missed!
