THE DANUBE HYDROFOIL BARELY KISSED THE DOCK in Brataslava and we hopped off in that most Soviet of cities. We imagined hidden microphones in our room in Hotel Kiev. That was back in 2002 when we were just learning the ins and outs of travel. This time we skipped “Brata” entirely and headed for the countryside to see the real Slovakia.
Downtown Banska Stiavnica
Banska Stiavnica was one of the wealthiest towns in the Hapsburg Empire, the mining center of the empire. But when the miners started using dynamite, production increased so rapidly the mines were soon depleted. Many of the wonderful buildings have fallen into disrepair but a surprising number have been wonderfully maintained. While Western tourists haven’t discovered Banska Stiavnica (or Slovakia, for that matter) it is a popular destination for Eastern Europeans.
"Articulated" woodworking technique, Hronsek wooden church
So after a night in town we headed on towards Ruzomberok and the “articulated” wooden churche of Hronsek. Driving through the beautiful countryside makes you realize this could be almost anywhere in Europe but it could be only Europe. There is just something so special about the area. The church at Hronsek, like the Peace Churches of Silesia and the wooden churches of Lesser Poland, had to be constructed of wood and only wood. No nails, no stones and no church bells. In Hronsek they used a unique “articulated” technique to give the church structure, strength and longevity, as it turns out. There are not too many 17th Century wooden buildings still standing anywhere in the world.
No place like home, Podbiel wooden house
Likewise the wooden houses of Podbiel, which we discovered along the way. They are very reminiscent of those we saw in Chocholow, just across the border in Poland early in our trip in 2012. While the wooden houses of Chocholow are World Heritage, those of Podbiel are still lived in and most support satellite dishes.
