I left Herbert covered and chained up in the basement carpark and was reassured by the manager that he would be well cared for. this did make me feel a little better. We flew from Lima to the desert city of Arequipa, Peru's second city taking in the wonderful sight of the Andes from the air. The fight also gave me a chance to reconnoitre my road for the trip south early next month. Arequipa is a dusty desert city kept alive by the diverting of the Colca river to feed the population. Colonial biuldings biult out of a white volcanic stone, give the place a surreal oasis feel, and always the prescence of active volcanoes surrounding the city. At 2400metres above sea level the days are hot with the UV at high levels 365 days a year and the nights freezing but with amazing clear skies. I really feel like i am back in the southern hemisphere with some of the stars familiar again.
The next day we headed to Colca Canyon the second deepest canyon in the world at around 3400 metres deep it is staggering. Pre Incan terraces dot the lower reaches of the Colca Valley, amazingly efficient irrigation from the tops of the mountains are still being used. the next area was the altiplano a flat area of the mountain ranges with hardy souls living and keeping their Llamas and Alpacas in this area. It is very cold and dry but spectacular. At around 4800 metres we were feeling the altitude, it felt good to descend back to the 3500 metre range for the night. The next day we went to Colca Canyon lookout and La Cruz del Condor a lookout where we could see these amazing birds riding the thermals rising from the valley floor. They can only fly when the currents are right not suprising at 1.5 metres high and 3.5 metres from wingtip to wingtip. Then it was back to Arequipa for a day of rest. The next stop is Puno on lake Titicaca, hopefully the last excursion will help with acclimatization as we will be back up to the high 4000,s and thin air.
Arriving in Puno late afternoon with the sun low gave this town a sepia tinge as we descended the valley. The lake as part of the view adding a blue border to the city, the reeds which support the local Uros people covering the shallows and banks. The town is a dusty noisy hive of activity reaching the lake shore and the high reaches of the surrounding hills. The next day we caught a boat to the floating islands of the Uros people, these islands are made up of the root base of the reeds and about a metre of cut reeds criss crossed for stability. They vary in size and accomodate a family but are seperate from the next families island. The people are happy friendly people still using the lake as a means of survival, with the reeds central to their simple way of life. The boats, houses, lookout towers, beds, seats you probably get the message are all reed. The islands float and are anchored to the lake bottom by large rocks, if the neighbouring islanders annoy you just pull up rock and move your island how fantastic. Extensions are simple cut some root base add reeds tie together and you have an extension. A ride in a reed boat show just how amazingly stable they are and how quickly they can move. It was then back onto a motorised boat for the two and a half hour trip to Taquille Island and the Quechua speaking islanders.
The islanders still live a simple life lugging water up 500 steps to the main village. Even with the hundreds of tourists invading their island they maintain their dignity. It was interesting to see but personally felt like i was imposing on these shy and reclusive people. A 2 to 3 hour trip back to Arequipa and preparations for the 4 day Inca Trail Trek.
