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herbert and i

The Incas walked everywhere

PERU | Monday, 6 October 2008 | Views [567] | Comments [5]

The morning of the trek arrived with a bus picking us up for the journey to Ollantaytambo at km 82 of the trail. The trek team was yours truly and five women a really fabulous group we all got on famously. Day one was a gentle climb, we covered 12 kms ending at a farmyard campsite. We were warned bad boys would come in the night and not the type you want to visit and i do believe they did. As well as all the animals, something resembling human footsteps were also heard. The first day we treked along stone trails upwards to grassy plains always following the Urubamba River, with views of the surrounding mountains and the Veronica Glacier. Inca ruins dotted the hillsides adding to the picturesque views and always the bubbling river nearby.

Day 2 dawned sunny but luckily not too warm as we had to negotiate a 4200 metre pass called Dead Womans Pass. We climbed steadily then the trail became steep with large steps with high risers. The trail continued to climb toward the pass through woodland, again the clouds rolled in as we reached the pass cooling the temprature. Fires burned on the mountains behind, fanned along by the wind it moved along quickly giving the guide some concerns. The climb was relentless, with the altitude causing breathlessness although 3 of the girls Jennifer, Liesa (alias princess) and kristin (alias Vicunya), powered through and got to the top quickly. Clarrisa, Kylie and i struggled along and got to the top exhausted. The rain then started causing the stones of the trail to become slippery adding to the degree of difficulty. This section was downhill to a crowded campsite ending the day at 5.00 p.m. Then the rain started and it poured most of the night some tents leaked making it a miserable night, but on the plus side the watefalls were running the next day.

The third day was going to be a long day 16 kms with another pass of 3800 metres thrown in. The day took us from forest to open grassy high plains, again dotted with Incan ruins, walls and terraces, steep drops and fantastic views of the mountains and forests. The trail headed downwards and downwards on steep stone steps through Incan tunnels and always spectacular scenery. As we struggled down the porters carrying 20kg loads raced past, sure footed on the slippery rocks. The last hour down a steep dirt path was torture arriving at the campsite at around 5pm we all collapsed through exhaustion. this long arduos day allowed for an easy 6 km walk in the morning to the Sun Gate and Machu Pichu.

A 4.30am start would get us to the Sun Gate at dawn to see the ruins before the crowds. Again steep stone steps greeted us but as we reached a rise all the pain in the legs and breathlessness was forgotten with the sight of the city on the mountain. It is just  breathtaking the scale and complexity of the biuldings and the extraordinary setting, surrounded by mountains with the Urubamba River below, mist rolling up the valley to give the ruins a mystical air. Its very difficult to put into words the exhiliration and awe at seeing this truly magical place. The Incans were amazingly skilled in their biulding practices, the stonework fitted together so accurately that a piece of paper cant fit between the mortarless joints. After a few hours of wandering amongst the ruins, we all headed to Agua Calientes for a post trek drink. It was a very sad goodbye we had all gotten on so well. A night in Agua Calientes, then onto Cusco to prepare for 4 days in the Amazon, bring on a rest.  

Comments

1

Hang on...I thought it was supposed to be FUN.....12km and 16km hikes sound like boot camp!! Descriptions, as always, are fantastic.. you will have to write them up in a journal on your return.
Hope you are both well.
cheers
Kathleen

  Kathleen Oct 6, 2008 3:42 PM

2

the trek sounded exhausting but well and truely rewarding! Always pain for pleasure I guess. Have been eagerly awaiting the next blog...

love to you both Vi

  Vi Oct 6, 2008 4:32 PM

3

Your trek sounds like so much hard work but the views and experience would have been fantastic.

I'm hoping you've got a spa treatment lined up at the end of this trip for a head-to-toe body scrub and massage. You know what they say, your body needs balance.......you work hard and then there's the reward (oh, is that just me???)

  Gary Khoo Oct 9, 2008 12:13 AM

4

Well done guys! The photos are amazing. I hope the rest of the journey is not as arduous.

  Emily Oct 15, 2008 9:43 AM

5

Vicunya here. I miss you guys so much. I can't believe that I've been back here away from pisco sours and midges for a week. We definitely missed our umbrella boy in the jungle, particularly on the last day of our Manu Reserve stay. Here's hoping that you all make it out to SF so we can show you the non touristy bits. Take care and good luck with the zippers.

  Kristin Oct 17, 2008 8:52 AM

 

 

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