I left Comitan early to try and make the frontier with Guatemala early. A light drizzle was falling and the traffic was light and amazingly i got myself out of townwithout a U turn. As i topped a rise Guatemala stretched before me green fields with volcanoes as a spectacular frame. How peaceful i thought. Crossing customs in Mexico went smoothly, it payed to leave the bike dirty, the neat customs official wasnt interested in spoiling his clean uniform to check engine and frame numbers. With my tourist card and temporary import permit cancelled i was free to travel the 3 kilometres to the Guatemalan border. As i neared the border the crowd closed in, then i was riding through a chaotic scene of market stalls and sellers. It was crazy, buses, people, tut tuts, animals, police, army and all the time Herbert at walking pace avoiding all those obstacles and not to mention pot holes. Customs stamped me in officially quickly, the next step fumigate Herbert, well pay for it anyway and then the paperwork for the temporary import permit and go to the bank to pay for the forms and finally go back to customs for my sticker. 2 hours and the border gate was opened for me to crawl through the masses of people. No bribes needed, no tramitadores, lots of handshakes and wishes of a good trip.
Finally leaving the crowds behind i headed towards Heunentango, pronounced wee wee tango, no wonder lots of confused looks ensued when i told folk where i was going. The road surface was good and the scenery spectacular, reaching my destination mid afternoon with lots of time to find accomodation and gather myself after the earlier chaos. The next day the plan was to reach Panajachel on Lake Atitlan, the road was under construction so lots of sections of wet mud, broken up bitumen and gravel with big grey stones instead of witches hats to guide your way. The road to the Lake was blocked so i settled for views of the lake from the Pan American Highway and headed to Antigua the old Spanish colonial capital of the empire. Cobble stone streets low level stuccoed biuldings with red tiled roofs. A real gem of a city, peaceful and secure and all walking distance in the compact centre. Its a chill out place so i might for a day or two before i tackle Guatemala City.
Well chill out i have, i have fallen in love with this city, its the vibe or maybe the tranquility,as the tranquility is broken by a squawking car alarm! I have spent my time here wandering the cobbled streets awestruck at the fantasatic job that has been done to restore the city after devestating earthquakes, with the limited resources. Yesterday afternoon was spent visiting a Maya temple with a god of cigars and whiskey as the deity. A think this may be a modern interpretation by the many cigar smoking, alchoholics who were shunned by mainstream gods. We all need someone to look up to.
The time has come to move on, next step Honduras.
