After 5 days in Antigua i was thouroughly relaxed, and i needed it. After meeting some fabulous people in Antigua i said my goodbyes, thumbed the starter and nothing. Flat battery. Push starting a bike fully laden on cobblestones was challenging,my hotel just happened to be on the flatest part of Antigua of course. eventually with some help Herbert burst into life and i was on my way and not relishing the thought of tackling Guatemala City. It was a relatively fast ride on a good 4 lane road, then the outskirts and the traffic built up until i was at a standstill with no idea in which direction to go. Step forward Roberto the Guatemalan distributor of Triumph motorcycles, saving me from despair. He flagged me down bought me a drink then escorted me briskly through the mayhem. Then i was on my way again on the CA10 heading towards El Progresso, leaving the shanty towns behind the road opened up to a well surfaced 2 lane road.
I wasnt sure which way to cross into Honduras so i left my decision till late afternoon. travelling through what they call the desert area of Guatemala i couldnt believe how many people carried guns. Some in holsters, some in front pockets, back pockets and down the back of their pants, being totally foreign to me it was a bit unnerving but the people armed to the hilt were still friendly. I decided to cross the border at a town called Agua Caliente so i could see the black Jesus in the Basilica of Esquilpes. He could be seen from afar, the area where he was kept was cordoned off, at least the church was impressive. Bracing myself for the next day i fell into bed exhausted and slept the sleep of the just after seeing the black Jesus.
The border was only 10 kilometres from my hotel so i arrived promptly and then promptly stopped for what seemed an eternity. Guatemalan customs was a doddle, compared to Honduras. I enlisted the help of a tramitadore and a guard for the bike and walked from office to office for the next four and half hours. At 1pm the gate was lifted and then i was free to go. the road to Tegucigalpa was recently resurfaced, but from the turnoff to Santa Rosa De Copan, i dodged potholes for the next 200 kilometres, then guess what i was in the afternoon rain, high up on a winding mountain pass. Finally descending into the Copan Valley the rain eased and i rode straight past my intended destination. The towns are annoyingly not signposted, after finally reaching my destination, it started raining again and this time i nervously rode herbert through the slippery cobblestone streets till i found a place to stay. Santa Rosa De Copan is placed on a steep hill with fine views of the surrounding countryside. Cobbled streets and a central square, very pretty place, but Copan Ruinas is what i want to see, it will have to wait till tomorrow.
I made an early start but was to be 2 hour ride to Copan Ruinas turned into a 5 hour epic. The initial road to the Copan Ruins was all fine till 30 kms from the turn off. The road deteriorated into sections of potholed gravel and washouts. The off road diversions were fun at first, then the truck wheel ruts filled with flowing water from the hills. Then i was riding in wet clay wheel ruts. The thought occured to me to turn around but i was nearly there and this was to one of my Central America highlights so i trudged on. I pulled into a hotel car park covered in thick red clay and then the heavens opened and the water was running down the streets in torrents. All did not bode well for a next day departure. I awoke the next morning to the news that the road was blocked to all traffic including trucks and buses. If i was to leave it would have to be back to Guatemala. Besides the travelling dramas the ruins were a real highlight for me. The temples and biuldings still enclosed by jungle gave a surreal feel to the ancient site, arriving as the gates opened allowed me the feeling that i had rediscovered this sacred Mayan city. I will say a prayer to the god Maximon (the cigar and whisky God) for a break in the rain and if he cant deliver that at least i can drink whisky and smoke cigars with a blessing.
