Market Day! Each morning we go out and buy our daily fresh foods, but usually we don’t make it as far as the Big Markets, with ABC, Tesco Express and Spar markets 3 on each city block! On special days, where I might crave a fresh Langos, or a Retes we walk towards the Pest end of Liberty Bridge to the Great Market Hall, where you can find anything Hungarian.
The Great Hall was created the same time when the 3 cities, Buda, Pest and Obuda united to create Budapest at the turn of the 19th- 20th century. Once the city was unified the chaotic outdoor markets couldn’t adequately supply its people, and the city leaders decided to build giant covered market halls similar to other European cities, to fix the problem. 1894 the build started but had a set back when a fire burned down the roof and was finished in 1897.
It was completely renovated in 1991, when they covered the big roof with Zsolnay tiles. It is stunning from the outside. To me the photos look fairy tale. Perfect day for pictures!
Entering the bustling market, a waft of different smells hit your nose. Bakery sweets, sweet peppers, food cooking intertwine. The glorious colors of the stalls meet you. Dried salamis hang from above. Bakery items displayed through glass windows, butchers cry out their specials and try to entice a purchase. Veggie and fruit stands have beautiful Hungarian yellow peppers displayed. This is a Hungarian staple, and to be eaten along with everything as well as cooked into everything.
Up stairs you can find souvenirs. Embroidered blouses, traditional leather crafts, tacky Budapest Hungary shirts and nick knacks. Personally I give the Hungarian Paprika as gifts. We put paprika in all our stews, meats, roasts, salads, hair products (just seeing if you’re paying attention), and the better quality the richer the flavor. I like ‘Csipos’ or hot, but ‘Csemeges’ or sweet is what we give as a gift.
Also upstairs are the restaurants and food stands. You can find all the traditional foods here. Paprikas chicken, goulash soup, hand made cabbage rolls, fried meat and fish in buns, all the fixings. Gluttony is my favourite sin. A culinary dream.
The market has 3 floors. I have been coming here my whole life and this was the first time I went to the basement! The pickled items and fishmongers lurk below, as well as all wild meat vendors. My brother has always loved wild stews, and the last time we travelled Hungary together he never missed an opportunity to eat it. I couldn’t help but think he would love to discover the hunter’s haven.
Back in the day people brought their products via the underground channels. Not in use anymore, but interesting to know that there are secret tunnels below. Very KGB. You have to say it in a Russian accent!
Today we ate Langos for breakfast. Deep fried bread, traditionally eaten with salt but I like mine covered in garlic! Alfonz likes his with garlic, sour cream and cheese. The kids like theirs with just cheese but you can have it with a variety of pizza like toppings. Like you need to make this tasty dish anymore calorie rich! Where once I could eat 2 without blinking, I now sadly couldn’t finish one. Light weight!
I don’t feel bad about the rich foods. We walk 4-6 hours a day, up and down 8 flights of stairs the day through. I feed my soul. And like the Hungarians before us, we were raised on this stuff!
For more information about the Hamori family, and how they started their family adventure, visit us at www.thatshamori.com
