That's Hamori

Summer Solstice Music Festival Capestang

thatshamori — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:52:00 GMT

Canal Du Midi

In honour of the longest day of the year musicians take to the streets to celebrate and entertain the public for free.

There were stages being assembled by crews around Beziers. One was near the church, another along their main street’s walking strip and another on the far side of their main square. It felt as though all over France people were preparing for summer solstice.

In Capestang there was a stage in the square looking on towards the church and a band entertained the tourists and locals sitting in the two cafes on either side. A great setting, so our many friends that showed up for the fun told me.

The French take the Arts very seriously and they honour musicians throughout the summer with concerts. You can checkout many bands and a variety of talented musicians in the prettiest settings the southern region of France is famous for.

We booked a table for five at our favourite spot along the Canal du Midi at Le Chat Qui Peche to enjoy one of the local talents.

Gordon McManus has a cultured dulcet voice accompanied by his string guitar. He sings from the heart and had the whole crowd smiling as he felt his way through popular and original tunes. Not only a great talent to be discovered but happens to be a real sweetheart.

We met Gordon through his lovely partner Marianna, whom like us is also from Hungary. They work and live in France during the summer and in the winter travel the world. What a fabulous life for 2 people in their twenties.

Daniel and Angelina met the youngest son of the man we bought our pool from and they scouted around the grounds as we enjoyed the atmosphere of Le Chat Qui Peche. The kids had ice cream and food as we sipped beer and wine and listened to the light tunes and chatted to the new faces around our table.

A delightful pleasure to meet the wife and daughter of a British expat we know from town. They live just outside the village, have been here for 30 years and raised their two children in France. Their daughter J is very articulate, bilingual and meeting her made me think how lucky we are to be following so many that have beaten the path out before us.

It was a perfect day ended by a perfect night, our first day of summer in France.

That’s Hamori

Gordon’s perchGordon McManus – SIngerPotbelly BigMarianna and the kids
Horses GrazeBargeWhich Way Next?Canal Du Midi
Sunset Around 9:32Le Chat Qui Pech RestaurantKids PlayRestaurant Sign
Kids TransportationCanal Bridge

Music Festival Capestang

"Escale en Canal Lirou : un dimanche au miroir du canal"

thatshamori — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:49:00 GMT

Lead

As part of the summer solstice the local musicians came out to celebrate in Capestang after 7:00pm on Sunday evening. The perfect setting along the Canal du Midi where boats dock, you could see their guests sitting on deck sampling local wine from the venders set up in kiosks down the road. Most eat their dinner and listen to the entertainment in the warm southern sun.

There were a few local product merchants and crepe sellers to round out the town’s celebration. A group of local children ran around in the fields below playing between the long grass and trees. How many bug bites will Daniel come home with? I tried not to worry and enjoyed the music.

Three Capestang locals were on the stage in front of the tourist office. Chairs and benches were set around for seating and a floor to dance on directly in front.

Our entertainment consisted of: one man whom plays professionally in a large orchestra who held his tuba on the end of the stage, the guitar player that floats between bands perched on a chair made up the book ends framing the pretty lady in the middle holding her posh accordion preparing to sing.

They had a cool folk sound and the lead had a rich throaty rasp in the low notes that made their sound hip. I loved how the accordion blended with her voice and the brass played low against the string guitar’s twangs.

She wore a simple elegant sequin dress with no shoes. Her boyfriend the tuba player in the photos went in between instruments and played the tuba, trumpet and guitar during the show. The lead also took her turn on the guitar for a few numbers.

They were playing traditional songs that everyone but us knew the words too. We were told they were not an official band and as such they had to stick to popular traditional songs. Is this the rule in France? Not sure if it was a personal choice or regulated law. Nothing surprises.

After the hour-long show everyone clapped and they bowed to the audience.

Then a group of striped shirt people bounced out of the crowd and into action playing instruments as they walked. It was our local folk band climbing on board a canal barge to sing for the crowd below. They have a fun, free vibe, and all the people in the group truly enjoy the music they make together. We have seen the familiar faces many times around town performing at events as well as some members have kids in the local elementary school with Daniel and Angelina.

After a full day in the sun, swimming in the pool and the evening festival until after 9:00 I dragged the sleepy babes home for bed, as Alfonz and Adrian joined a group to watch the soccer match in the square.

The sunset after 9:30pm and again the photos were incredible.

The sun was still setting as I snuck in an evening swim and the stars started to peek out of the deep blue sky that faded to black. As I felt the cool water against my body, I floated on my back and looked towards the heavens. How many painters came here to study just for the famous light and looked towards the same sky and felt the energy that lives here. Does everyone feel creative here I wondered, and does everyone feel this at home?

Salvador Dali, Leonardo Da Vinci, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Pierre August Renoir and Vincent Van Gogh all lived and breathed in this divine light that warms the trees before sunset in a golden stream low and deep. They too saw the same moon high above peering down at them on the summer solstice.

The path to the region has been beaten down before us. I am starting to realize why.

DanielLocal folk bandPierik and AngelinaBoys hanging out
LeadEntertainment for the FestSleepy dogMarket
DanielTabac’s FranciscoSweet KidsSigns around town

That’s Hamori!

Car boot Sales Salleles-d'aude

thatshamori — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:47:00 GMT

On the canal

Sallèles-d’Aude is a commune in the Aude department in southern France. The Canal de Jonction, part of the La Nouvelle branch of the Canal du Midid, runs through the middle of the town making this a tourist hotspot during the summer months.

Drive into

Our lovely friends and neighbours Celine and Lucas took us on our first car-boot sale adventure.

Carboot sales for those of you from Canada or America are a garage sale or flea market. They pop open their car trunks or ‘car-boots’ and sell their goods out of them.

I know it is not a French term but with so many English residing here I am learning new terms.

I think the French term is “Vide Attelier” or empty attic for these sales.

These flowering trees lined both sides of the street as we made our way to the canal’s side welcomed our drive into this sweet town.

Alfonz and Adrian

Alfonz and Adrian led the way to the deals waiting us at the flea market. We found children’s clothes, barely worn for 1 Euro each. I managed to pickup a pair of leather shoes, never worn for 3 Euros. A great place to also buy hardly used toys, in the world where we buy them everything and they use nearly nothing. For Daniel who was spending the day with our family friend Mallory, we picked him up 2 knight figurines to help out with his latest obsession of making castles out of toilet paper rolls.

A great place for tools and women’s clothes but pretty much anything you can imagine. I am definitely making this our weekly ritual and hitting different local car-boot sales each week.

I found a beautiful steel based potholder with solid brass planter for 4 Euros. Wanting more, I tried my hand at the art of bartering, and got them down. It will make a lovely gift for a friend with absolutely everything whose birthday is just around the corner. I bought her a plant last year that should be just about ready to leave the original planter it came with.

Walking Path

We also picked up some beautiful vine-ripened tomatoes for 2 Euros, which normally would have been three times that at the Intermarche.

The streets were packed with locals looking for a great deal. A few cold drinks and crepes were offered along the way to take the edge off while strolling and rummaging through people’s things.

That’s Hamori

Roquebrun The Parfait Day, France

thatshamori — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:45:00 GMT

It was the perfect break from our busy week.

The boys hung bug screen and fans, built shed bases, and concrete steps, while I spent the week cooking and cleaning after our company and kids. It was a rushed week, with sunburns and stroke that entitled us to a day off. Alfonz insisted. I obliged.

Sitting near the river, letting the kids splash and explore, we drink a few beers with a brown bagged lunch, and listen to the birds sing and the rushing rapids a few yards away.

We took turns napping, and watching the kids.

A well-deserved rest after our company from Hungary left, we mellow by the water’s edge.

My sunburn kept me in the shade for the day. It started to blister and peal and still was burning to the touch. On the verge of second degree, I applied Aloe Vera gel that saved me from hospital.

Everyone else bathed in the sun, splashed in the cool water, and enjoyed people watching the groups around us, in this hidden treasure location close to our home.

A beautiful old bridge stretched across the river Orb, and 100 metres above is the village of Roquebrun. I have written about this village before, and the unique spot keeps us coming back for short excursions. http://www.thatshamori.com/roquebrun-petite-nice/

Daniel brought his fishing gear, but the fish were in abundance and he needed only a net. He caught little minnow and showed us in turn. He grabbed Angelina’s hand and took her across the rapids towards the concrete escalate, a slippery up hill slope Daniel had braved. Wanting to show his sister, he tugged her along. She did very well keeping up to her brother, and I bit my lip and stood back watching Daniel protect his sister. Only once they had reached the fierce rapids did I interject his leadership and whistled for them to return.

They missed each other while Angelina was away at camp, and today they did not fight, instead bound, while exploring the rough waters the river Orb mustered.

They came back glowing with pride, as if they just crossed the Atlantic Ocean and discovered a new land.

———–

Today I realized the journey of moving to France was not just miles long, but miles deep. I may not always like what I find during this journey to self discovery. As I shed layers of my former self, peeling off the layers of what people expected me to be back home, I find a quieter version of myself. A little bit shaky perhaps, like a toddler walking their first few steps, I am a little less protected from the cruel world. I find the safety needed in our new home, to be my true self.

I changed a few degrees. We are in fact better as ourselves then an imitation version of someone else. I feel more me in France than anywhere else in the whole world thus far, and feel the journey was worth ever obstacle to get here.

Not sure if many people who move great distances away from the support they known experience the same transformation. There is something about stripping down to just you, no expectations around us, that gives us the fresh start that allows us to be ourselves.

That’s Hamori

Roquebrun

Bike ride from Capestang to Poilhes

thatshamori — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:43:00 GMT

Ride Along the Canal

Alfonz and Adrian took Daniel on an adventure today. They finally took a much-needed break from the renovations and work around the house to take the boy on a two-hour bike ride to Poilhes and back along the Canal du Midi. This includes their lunch break and going past Poilhes. It would usually take about 30-45 minutes from Capestang.

Along the way they stopped at the interesting photo opportunities and enjoyed the shade the majestic Plane trees have to offer.

With brown-bagged lunch in hand, the three boys made their way to Poilhes, the friendly village closest to us along the Canal du Midi.

That’s Hamori!

Ride Along the CanalGrape Covered CountrysideDucklingsDaniel – Lunch in Poihes
Snake Squished on RoadPopular RideCanal BoatsDaniel Riding on the Canal
Capestang from the high road to Poihes

bike ride along the Canal du Midi

Bize Moinervois Fance

thatshamori — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:40:00 GMT

Mon FamilleLeadershipDaniel FishingDragon Flies
BizeMy view while drifting in and out of sleepDaddy and AngelinaPlay
Pretty villageAdrian ventures off the blanket

Along the river Cesse between Olonzac and Capestang just North of the D5 lays a little village community called Bize in the Aude region of southern France.

We decided to give the river a try after a heat wave hit out area and we searched for a cool dip in the icy rivers of the Cesse.

The community has dammed the river to create a swimming hole for the locals and tourists. After school many people wandered over to cool off before heading home. Teenagers make this their local hang out eating baguettes with Nutella and I cannot help to think how much better it is than the local 7-11 hangout eating burritos back in Canada!

We set up camp next to the shore in a tree-shaded area around lunchtime and stayed until dinner. Today was a napping kind of day, as the kids splashed and explored the benign area.

We ate browned bagged lunches; baguette stuffed with our favourite local meats and cheeses, snacked on fresh fruit and drank cold beers.

Alfonz and I took turns swimming in the slow moving river water, almost too cold on such a hot day. It reminded me of the Cowichan River in Duncan where I grew up on Vancouver Island, and the memories of swimming in it as a kid flashed over me as I watched my own children enjoy the summer’s day.

The kids loved wading in the shallow waters, hunting for animals and playing with other children close by.

Daniel met a boy with fishing gear and made his way up the river to try his hand at netting fish. He did manage a few tiny ones and brought them eagerly back to show us.

Angelina found an abandoned Barbie bucket and scooped her share of the tiny minnow to show us too.

Adrian didn’t leave the blanket. Between his book and napping he was content.

We all took turns napping.

It was a very restful day.

That’s Hamori!

Bastille Day July 14th French Celebration

thatshamori — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:21:00 GMT

Ange and I dancing

BAvid A short video of Bastille Day in Capestang!

July 14th is the biggest national holiday in France and it celebrates the beginning of the revolution.

More commonly the holiday is called La Fête Nationale or Le Quatorze Juillet by the locals.

In 1789, July 14th is the day that the people of France took absolute power away from Louis the 16th by storming the Bastille prison which started the French revolution. It marks the end of total power to the regime and eventually made way for the first republic in 1792.

A monumental time in French history, today the people gather to watch fireworks and listen to local bands. In Capestang, the children start the event by receiving free lanterns with candles inside from the town hall or Marie. The children led a procession around our village that ended by the Canal du Midi Bridge in front of our tourist office by our port.

The fireworks started at 10:00pm after the sun went down. It was a spectacular display for such a small town and draws tourists from all over the region, keeping the cafes and restaurants busy until the wee hours of the morning.

Children run through the streets with firecrackers and the police are at hand in case an issue arises. I love the way the French let the kids play, probably remembering running down the same streets when they were children.

The band played cover tunes and French traditional music. The members changed outfits a number of times and different singers took centre stage to entertain the crowd below the stage. The packed dance floor was a sea of smiling faces.

Children danced in front, leaning against the stage to get a good look at the musicians. Mothers stayed off to the side looking at their children from a distance, allowing them the freedom to interact. Little babies still in diapers up to the preteens swayed to the music.

The square, set up with tables and chairs from one end to the other were filled with many familiar locals and strangers alike. Some watched as others braved the dance floor. You could hear conversation along the sidelines in many different languages.

We sat with our guests from Germany only to cut the evening short from being tired from camping the night before. We stumbled home and hit the bed hard, and slept into the late morning hours.

Bastille festival in Capestang is worth the drive or ride to participate. What a lively bunch!

That’s Hamori!

Our Capestang’s ChurchCapestang SquareAngelia and AdrianAlfonz at the cafe
Capestang Square before the celebrations beginLanterns July 14th celebrationsAngelina and Adrian mid conversationfirecracker kids

Why Budapest since the EU?

thatshamori — Sun, 18 Mar 2012 21:47:00 GMT

Living in Budapest part time does not give me any credentials on the economy, the politics or anything of that sort.

What I have noticed as someone that frequents Budapest since an early age is thatsince they became a part of the EU, money has been invested, making some noticeable changes.

Top Changes

#1 A FaceLift - New shiny businesses open where old decrepit ones once ran.

#2 Safe Streets The streets feel safe and officers stand on nearly every corner.

#3 Clean up – Empty shops once boarded up are open for business with name brand clothing stores, high-end shops, and boutiques inside.

#4 Employment Opportunities - You can see franchise here too, giving more variety to customers, bringing in more business and employment to a culture that needs a kick start.

#5 No Dog Pooh - The buildings are clean; the streets clear of debris and no dog crap to be seen!

#6 User Friendly -The historical city is much easier to sell to tourist if it is tourist friendly and it is!

#7 English Language - When I was young, most people did not speak English, but now nearly all the youth speak enough to get by, are helpful to the people on the streets asking directions and seem to be much more open then the generation before.

#8 Brighten up -Closer to our apartment, entire streets have been cobblestoned, with little streetlights along both sides, bringing people further out of the downtown core.

—–

It is a great time to travel to Hungary and see for yourself first time how amazing Budapest is.

Reasons To Go

#1 When and Why I prefer the city during late spring and early fall, when the weather is warm but the Hungarian kids are still in school, and you get the city to yourself.

#2 Tours -There are many group tours; walking and guided making travelling convenient. Or grab a map of the downtown core and start walking. Everything is easy to find along the Danube River and with so much to see you can spend days just exploring this area.

#3 Transit -Catching transit is simple, with clearly marked routes on the maps to help tourists get around.

#4 Nightlife -If you are looking for nightlife, anytime is a good time to go to Hungary. We have groups from all over the world travel to Hungary just to party at night and explore during the day, or sit in the baths the day after, nursing their hangover!

#5 International Appeal -The downtown core is full of people from all over the world, and the Hungarian women are known for their beauty and the youth love to cut loose. Usually the kids go out around 11:00pm or later and stay out until the early morning in the nightclubs dancing the night away. This surprised me, but I guess it is standard in Europe.

#6 Investing in Tourism The EU has invested money into the Hungarian people to build a tourism bridge to the rest of Europe. With cheap tickets from Ryan air since the Hungarian airline Malev folded, you can easily fly into to Budapest and be down town in 20 minutes.

#7 Prices Their prices compared to the rest of Europe are still low, and a rental until is still cheap!www.walnut-apartment.com our family rental

If you decide this may be an adventure you are interested in, and want some more personal advice, contact us through our website.

Happy and safe travels!

That’s Hamori!

Why Budapest since the EU?

thatshamori — Sun, 18 Mar 2012 21:47:00 GMT

Living in Budapest part time does not give me any credentials on the economy, the politics or anything of that sort.

What I have noticed as someone that frequents Budapest since an early age is thatsince they became a part of the EU, money has been invested, making some noticeable changes.

Top Changes

#1 A FaceLift - New shiny businesses open where old decrepit ones once ran.

#2 Safe Streets The streets feel safe and officers stand on nearly every corner.

#3 Clean up – Empty shops once boarded up are open for business with name brand clothing stores, high-end shops, and boutiques inside.

#4 Employment Opportunities - You can see franchise here too, giving more variety to customers, bringing in more business and employment to a culture that needs a kick start.

#5 No Dog Pooh - The buildings are clean; the streets clear of debris and no dog crap to be seen!

#6 User Friendly -The historical city is much easier to sell to tourist if it is tourist friendly and it is!

#8 Brighten up -Closer to our apartment, entire streets have been cobblestoned, with little streetlights along both sides, bringing people further out of the downtown core.

—–

It is a great time to travel to Hungary and see for yourself first time how amazing Budapest is.

Reasons To Go

#1 When and Why I prefer the city during late spring and early fall, when the weather is warm but the Hungarian kids are still in school, and you get the city to yourself.

#3 Transit -Catching transit is simple, with clearly marked routes on the maps to help tourists get around.

#7 Prices Their prices compared to the rest of Europe are still low, and a rental until is still cheap!www.walnut-apartment.com our family rental

If you decide this may be an adventure you are interested in, and want some more personal advice, contact us through our website.

Happy and safe travels!

That’s Hamori!

African Reserve in Sigean

thatshamori — Wed, 14 Mar 2012 03:12:00 GMT

The Mistral winds were strong today, unusually warm and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. We stood in our yard, energized from feeling the wind blow through our clothing, almost taking us into flight. Today was a day to discover, anything, just go outside and explore.

We piled in the Westy with snacks, blankets, and towels in hand and were on our way to the beach in Perpignan, about an hour drive from Capestang. The wind blew our van all over the highway, and it crossed my mind, that it may be to windy for a relaxing rest in the sand; when I saw the Reserve Aficaine de Sigean sign, ‘next right turn’.

My favorite thing about Alfonz; no matter what I ever suggest, how crazy, he never says maybe or later or even another time. He always enthusiastically jumps on the bandwagon, making our life so much fun! Making the right hand turn at the very last second, while gravel flew up from the tires as we straighten up on the road towards Sigean. Alfonz had made the decision. The kids caught on only by the signs along the way, and we watched them erupt with excitement as soon as they realized where we were heading.

15km south of Narbonne, on the edge of the salt-lake, Bages-Sigean, at the mouth of River Berre and around a zone composed of salt marshes, the African Reserve was created. Founded in 1974, on nearly 300 Hectares of land along the Mediterranean coast, became home to 800 species of animals, and was designed vast enough to simulate their natural environment. Their purpose was to bread endangered African species, research them and to offer an education to their visitors.

Many animals naturally migrate to the area. And the 800 species cannot accurately be counted; there could easily be more varieties of birds that stop along their routes towards Africa.

Getting close to these animals and to see how they behave in their natural environment, and not in cages or behind bars, is an idea getting more popular with visitors increasing each and every year. We are not unfamiliar with this concept and frequented the Vancouver Game Farm, just outside Aldergrove, British Columbia, when we lived in Canada.

It seemed everyone in the Languedoc had the same idea on this crisp clear day. When we pulled up to the ticket line at the African Reserve, there were 10 vehicles ahead and 10 vehicles behind us, arriving in a caravan from the highway. We had no idea what to expect as we set our camera up for the experience.

98 Euros for the entry fee, broken down to 2×28 Euros for us adults and 2×21 Euros for the children was our total cost, not including 16 Euros for lunch. All in all a big budget for us for just one day, but we love wildlife and try to hit every zoo and aquarium on our adventures. Most run around the same price range, and more often than not, the money is well spent, especially with children.

We drove through the gates and asked the English speaking cashier ‘Where do we go from here?’ and she said, ‘Start by driving through the park, it will take about an hour. Then park your Van and walk through the rest. 3-4 hours in total.’

‘Sounds good to us! Thanks!’ And she handed us a map. Daniel navigated.

We followed the others and veered left, 150 meters towards a gate with a bridge designed with gaping spaces, too wide for an animal to walk across but narrow enough for a car tire to drive over.

Here we saw gazelles, zebras and ostriches. The Ostriches saw our open windows and started running for our van. At that point we closed our windows as fast as we could, just as the ostriches ran past and started pecking at the mirror of the car behind us.

Well that was exciting; we should seriously keep the car on lock down.

Moments before the conversation went like this. Alfonz said, ‘Lets keep the side door open, and take some great shots!’ That is how we started in to this area.

I said, ‘But what if a ‘not so scary animal’ jumps in to the van, let alone a scary one?’ He closed the side door, and said, ‘Yah, Daniel doesn’t like that idea at all.’

Good thing is all I can say. Especially knowing what came next!

The next gate, a man holding a rake handed us a brochure that said,

DANGER DO NOT STOP YOUR VEHICLE near the bear/ near the lions. Close your windows tight. Do not under any circumstances open your windows, or doors. Do not get out of your vehicle for any reason. These are highly dangerous animals.

Once through this gate, we immediately saw 3 large black bears next to our Westfalia, one walked right in front of us, and the other 2 behind. The car behind us slammed on their brakes, I guess in fear or excitement and one of the black bear jumped on the hood of the car. The women with her kids looked terrified, and froze, didn’t even make a sound. The man with the rake ran over and shooed the bear away. I was looking at the car afterwards thinking glad that didn’t happen to us! Her car was dented in and completely covered in muddy paw prints.

That was even more exciting than the Ostrich! Angelina kept saying, ‘They said not to stop Daddy keep going, I’m scared.” “Are you sure you don’t want the door open?” ‘NO mommy!!” (I was just kidding….gees!)

We saw a dozen black bears close up, very interesting on their natural terrain, in field of grass. Three were play fighting in one open field and kept us entertained. Loads of things to see, the animals seemed very animated.

Then we drove over to the lion’s area. A pride lay sunbathing along a high rock ridge right next to the road. Many beautiful lions, seemingly happy, without fences or bars between us, our view was unobstructed. Through our Westfalia windows, they watched us drive by. It was a fabulous way for the kids to experience these majestic cats close up.

It seemed we were not the only ones affected by the Mistral winds. The animals had personalities and far more active than any I have seen. Dawn and dusk are usually the best times to visit a zoo, but today was an extraordinary animal behavior day. We lucked out again!

From here we drove through a gated area with giant Rhinos, and then one with bulls. The kids loved seeing them in such detail, quite the experience for us.

We parked the car close to the restaurant and decided to grab a quick snack before walking along the paths. Lunch was just okay, I would pack a lunch next time, and enjoy their many picnic tables and park areas. The reserve is is beautifully laid out, with many paths to follow, and places to sit and enjoy an animal for longer periods of time.

The Vietnamese potbelly pigs put on a breading show for us, and 4 of the dominant males were fighting to the point of biting and blood. One female was being fought over. The noises they make! Potbelly porn!

Two peacocks flew in front of Daniel and I, and Alfonz took a shot of one in a tree. The flamingos were very chatty, two of them were fighting and Alfonz snapped a great photo. Little monkeys were playing next to three black swans, and even the elephant seemed to pose for us, and tried to get closer to Daniel to say hello. A donkey even tried to jump a gate to try to eat Angelina’s apple.

It was a pretty active day at the reserve, and with the winds blowing the whole time, the animals seemed to be wind bathing, and enjoying their day of warm sunshine as much as we were.

The only disappointment was missing the Gorillas. I searched for them all over their compound, through binoculars and from what I gathered is that they were inside the ape building. It was off limits, sadly. Maybe they had flu? Next time I will be able to ask where they are.

On the way home the kids kept saying I wish we drove through again, but they could hardly keep their eyes open. They were tuckered out! Daniel said, ‘This was the best day of my life!”

Well we hit the nail on the head with this one!

Enjoy the pictures!

That’s Hamori!

Reserve Africain de Sigean

Capestang Church

thatshamori — Sat, 25 Feb 2012 18:53:00 GMT

Saint Stephen’s Church of Capestang is located in the beautiful Languedoc-Roussillon region of France, and was designed as a Collegiate where monks and nuns could come, live and learn the word of god.

Collegiate Church of St. Etienne (the French name) was started in the 13th century over older church remains thought from the 11th century.

If the plans were carried out, it would have been the largest church in the region, and if the economy held fast from fish export and salt works it would have made sense, as they started building during the peek of Capestang when the population was close to 4000. Salt was the only way to preserve meat back in the day and between Capestang towards Beziers and Narbonne, was fertile farmland. This combination brought wealth to the people from this region. They exported along the River Aude, the E’Tang towards the sea, and eventually up and down the Canal du Midi.

The church was never completed when the money allocated for the venture had to be divided between the Narbonne and Capestang church construction, leaving both incomplete. The demise of the area was accredited to many reasons: River Aude’s course change, as well as salt not being as much a vital resource as once was. Then came the Plague and the church construction for both stood frozen in mid stream. Narbonne church required breaking down the 15^th century wall, a wall now needed to protect Narbonne against the disease. Both areas were hit hard by the Plague.

With the Canal du Midi and de la Robine built, they could still have access to the sea, and sustain trade, and the areas stayed alive, especially with wine being so sought after even during the 17^th century to present.

Alfonz and I were lucky to have the head of tourism Capestang meet us at the Capestang church to open the doors of the bell tower and give us a grand tour of the bells and the remarkable view of our village from above. It was quite an honor.

We climbed the 200+ steps up towards the heavens. Quite a trek, leaving us all panting at the top. Some had to stop to catch their breathe, others with gear nearly ran to the top. No matter, the view is worth a thousand words or in my case 774!

The winter wind blew hard, it was minus 5, the sky was crystal clear, and Capestang looked perfect. I could see the graveyard; beautiful tombs standing tall taking up the far side of the canal. Generations of people have lived their lives out here, in the heart ofHérault.

Little huddled together homes, with colored roof tiles, line the narrow streets of Capestang.

Crackling ice covered the Canal du Midi and in some spots the ducks walk across.

The plane trees stood at attention like soldiers surrounding the village.

Quoted as the “American dream” we check out from the rat race, and find a slowed pace of life. This little village is a visual spectacle, and exactly what we envisioned. (Maybe watched Ratatouille once too often with the kid’s?)

In this photo you can see our house! Guess if you dare!

Capestang is a small community offering a fully functioning village with all the amenities; great schools, preschool until graduation, outdoor activities for our nature loving family and the list goes on. We could see the kid’s new school, the life we chose from a bird’s eye view. We got very excited to think we chose this village, found a life based on time currency and feel like we found what we were looking for here. It was an emotional moment.

We could see all the way to Narbonne. The rolling vine covered countryside leads to mist-covered towns that look like far away fairytale lands. As I looked around the village, I imagined the history. Below our feet are checkerboards dug into the rock for the soldiers to play games on as they guarded Capestang. Simply amazing!

The main part of the church had colorful stain glass windows featuring saints, Jesus and mother Mary. The wooden pews, the stone floors, the coves display bible stories shown through statues and carvings, and give a sense of peace to her faithful visitors.

The church is the focal point for tourists visiting the South of France, and is an architectural treasure located directly on the square. The entire village is built around her, and she watches over us. No matter where you find yourself in Capestang, you get your bearings from her tall tower, a watchful eye peeking high above our homes, looking over her village, protecting her people.

That’s Hamori!

Follow along our family adventure www.thatshamori.com

Capestang Church

10 Top French Things That Make You Go Huh?

thatshamori — Wed, 16 Nov 2011 00:15:00 GMT

Just arriving 2 weeks ago to the land of Brie cheese, wine and baguettes, we note different cultural differences we must adjust to. Some are similar to the rest of Europe and a few are just specific to France. Enjoy, as we share our ‘top ten’ list.

#1 Dog Pooh

Imagine a walk where you don’t have to look down to see where you step! But up into the beautiful sites of the French scenery around you! Like many places in Europe, with no open fields for the pets to do their business, you will find animal feces on the side of the road. Village living, I thought, would be exempt from this practice, with loads of fields and marshes to take your dog to? It is not, to our recent discover! Parks even provide doggie dodo bags, yet, watch your step in France!

Where we are from, it is up to a $2000 fine if caught leaving your bacteria full animal excrement on the street or even a park.

On a happy note: I did notice street cleaners each morning cleaning the streets, and they get most the crap off the road before we get there. Other lanes seem exempt from cleaning. So stick to the main roads. We learned our lesson!

#2 Daily Bread

Give us this day our daily bread, especially if it is made fresh 3 times a day, soft and warm for our consumption. My pants are tight; therefore I must be in France! Between Brie cheese, fresh bread, and cheap wine, I haven’t a chance! I plan to take Alfonz down the naughty road of gluttony with me. It is my favorite sin!

#3 Siesta

If happiness is rest, then the French must have mastered the art of the nap. Between 12:00 and 1:30, but sometimes-stretched way out until 4:00, is their traditional siesta time. The store signs turn over to ‘closed’, and don’t bother slipping in just before thinking they will take you, they won’t let you in.

The French value their time; as they work to live, not live to work! Brilliant! Canada should adopt this custom.

It might stem from the hot summers when a nap seems like the thing to do during the hottest part of the day. It just doesn’t stop after the summer heat dissipates, but carries through the whole year.

One interesting off shoot of this, is trying to figure out when stores are closed or not. Sometimes they stay closed until late in the evening, and others stay open. Some take Sundays and Mondays off, where others open only during the Sunday markets. A man told us, once you think you have figured the store schedules out, you will realize you know nothing at all!

#4 Very Late Dinner

The French eat dinner in the late evening, after 7:30, some as late as 10:00pm. We are so hungry by the time 5:30 rolls around, we feast and still go out for a walk to burn it off, and have a little snack, maybe a yogurt and apples before bed.

We slowly change towards the custom, and try to eat later and later. I have been told, it is so hot in the summer months, that most people don’t eat until after it cools down, and that that is where the tradition came from.

#5 The Double Cheek Kiss

Not to be confused with the much more popular French kiss, for obvious reasons, the double-cheeked kiss is done upon first and the last time you see someone during the day. You start on the right side, and then the left. Most don’t actually kiss but make the sound. Very cute, and very French!

#6 No Helmut Laws

Our family is used to the constrictive, yet useful laws around road safety. It is mandatory to wear protective gear while riding your bike, scooter or skateboard.

Here they ride without helmets! A fall from a pedal bike on one of these side streets could crack your child’s head open like an egg, yet most kids ride without any protection. Daniel and Angelina have used helmets while riding their whole lives. When we got here, they asked why the French don’t use them? We assured them that it will be an eventually law. I hope so for the safety of the French children, riding on the streets.

#7 Church Bells

I cannot sleep here. The reason is simple. The bells are only a hundred yards from my head! It hasn’t registered as background noise yet. My brain will not think that 12 loud rings from a bell is a normal sound in the middle of the night. I wake up every hour on the hour. Last night I even woke up just before and thought where’s the bell. And sure enough it followed right along. Cross your fingers for me. Soon I will go insane from lack of sleep! It is slowly getting better.

#8 Home for Lunch, School Kids

I love this! Alfonz and I are house hunting and not able to be home during the day, just like families that work, but most kids go home for lunch, especially if they have a younger sibling home with mom. With no home packed school lunches aloud in school, there is no cause for allergy alarms. The school provides a hot basic nutritious lunch for a small fee if you are unable to get them home for lunch. If we had already bought a home, we would be picking up our kids like the majority of the French families.

#9 Laundry

I love that if it is not raining our neighbors have loads of laundry hanging out their window. The lady next door is the cleanest woman I have ever seen. Hanging her clothes, sheets and comforters every chance she gets.

Sometimes I nudge Alfonz smiling when I see a back yard full of hanging clothes. I begged him in White Rock to let me have a line strung from one corner of our yard to the other. It was always no. But here, if you don’t have a line with dozens of clips holding up your clothes swaying in the breeze, you are not energy efficient, or very French now are you!

#10 Bidet

I caught my kids washing their feet in it and Daniel slept walked during the night to relieve himself in it. It is the infamous bidet. On Oprah, I saw an extraordinary French woman claim that sex is free and should be enjoyed as often as possible, being good for your health and may keep you young. She went on to say that this is the custom of the French!

Now I understand the necessity of the bidet! Water is very expensive in France and to take a North American version of a shower each and everyday is highly unlikely. The idea of a quick wash makes sense. The bidet was invented sometime before the 17th century, and for some reason has caught on. Most residential bathrooms have one. SO if you come to France, don’t be alarmed, now you know what it is!

Vive la France!

That’s Hamori!

visit us on www.thatshamori.com to find out more about our travel adventure family!

Remembrance Day Capestang France

thatshamori — Wed, 16 Nov 2011 00:12:00 GMT

Remembrance Day in Capestang was very special. A group of retired residents, families and children from the school, along with their teachers, members of the police department and the mayor and his men, meet at the City hall to walk in a procession towards the statue with the grand stair well. The building looks like a town hall. Here we listen to the speeches, as the band plays the national anthem, and the flowers are offered in Remembrance to the various wars France has been involved in. We take a moment to acknowledge the people who died.

From here we walk over the bridge to the cemetery. Listening to the band playing, the breeze rustles through the trees along the canal banks; we look at the various tombs in the graveyard. It is so peaceful here, the beauty noteworthy. Alfonz likes to find the oldest among them and the exquisite details on the stones.

Take a moment to pay your respects. Many people have died so we may enjoy our freedom.

That’s Hamori!

At the Head of the Pond, Capestang

thatshamori — Wed, 16 Nov 2011 00:10:00 GMT

At The Head of the Pond, (Au Cap De L’Etang) or Capestang, turns out to be rich with history.

Capestang, located at the head of the Roseliere Pond, is a village with a story to tell, and a path with plaques to show herself to you.

The privately owned pond is a paradise for birds and hunters and is listed as a Nature 2000 zone. In the middle ages the lagoon connected to the Aude River. Although dry in the summer, the pond fills up to make a wild Lake when the down pours come or the River overflows. It occupies part of the main riverbed, and connects to the sea. Offering a route before the Canal du Midi to export fish and salt works. Salt was the only way to preserve meat back in the day. Between Capestang towards Beziers and Narbonne, was fertile farmland, and this combination brought wealth to the people from this region.

A few-minute walk from our village home in Capestang, France, is the Canal Du Midi, a man made canal, 240 km long, starting from the Atlantic Ocean that ends in the Mediterranean Sea. With a direct route to the sea, wine growers, farmers, salt miners sent their products up and down the canal. Built as a short cut through France, instead of going around hostile Spain, or going through pirates.

Up until WWII the canal, despite the dirty water, was the location for swim competitions. Now of course the canal is only for leisure boats, offering a safe and interesting way to travel through South France.

With the option of many B&B’s along the Canal banks, your vacation in the South France region can be changed up between canal boat rides, and 2 night stays along her shores. It would be the perfect location for our B&B.

Trompe l’oeil is a mural in the town of Capestang, a joint venture with residents and artists alike, to create the beautiful attraction.

Along the Canal, there are two stops along the walking path showing the amazing 18th century work to hold the waters back, and allow a drainage.

Two ancient fountains, and drainage bring water throughout the village. Kids have graffitied the sides with colourful design, giving a creative twist to the drab distribution system.

The Collegiate Church of St. Etienne, started in the 13th century has remains of an older church thought from the 11th century, underneath.

If the plans were carried out, it would have been the largest church in the region.

The 12th century Archbishop’s Chateauwith murals on the walls and ceilings greeting you, has had residents since. Now privately owned, it has no stately function.

The Ramparts, once throughout the village, is a defensive wall around the castle district. Here is a sample of the remains.

The Hospital mentioned in history as early as 1262, was critical in the malaria epidemics in the 17th and 18th centuries. Mosquitos from the etang spread the disease.

The Castre Estate, is a farm in the heart of Capestang. Or so it is called, with attached homes connected by a courtyard, and a beautiful home to someone today.

TheRomanstylehousewas built around the 12th century, among the oldest in the village.

The Lignon House is a bourgeois house, a village version of a vineyard chateau, built during the golden age of viticulture, dating back to 1888.

In the 1830′s on this site was a 10th century Setier tower, one of the earliest houses in the fortification around the castle.

The Bezieres Gate was one of the 5 gates entering the village in the 14th century.

The Subdivision area, is a section with smaller homes, side by side, through narrow streets. Very pretty to finish our walk of Capestang.

Incoming search terms:

canal du midi rent boat

First Day of French School - Capestang

thatshamori — Wed, 16 Nov 2011 00:00:00 GMT

We walked down our street, Rue Gambetta, 5 min to the school through the winding alleys, to drop the kids off at their new school. The children of France just finished their fall break, and are fresh and bright eyed for their next semester, a perfect time to introduce Daniel and Angelina into the mix.

Daniel’s schoolmate, swings his arm around his shoulder, and introduces him to each child in the class. The next one put his arm around him and in turn, took him to other groups of children to meet in the playground. It looked so affectionate and sweet; I felt a warm fuzzy admiration watching his new friends accept him whole-heartedly. A little girl held his hand and led him into the class to find his desk, next to hers. They showed such care to Daniel’s feelings that he beamed from the attention.

Angelina’s first day was difficult. She left in tears and we picked her up in tears. She was so fearful; my little girl worked herself up with such worry the night before, we could hardly get her to school. Her teacher paired her up with another little girl that speaks English, and they share a desk. Angelina cried for the first hour, and then quickly forgot her worries, and children in turn introduced themselves. It was only after lunch, near the end of the day, she began to miss us, and cried so hard that when we picked her up, her eyes were swollen and red from rubbing them. Exhausted, Angelina came home from school to extra long cuddles until she finally told us all the good stuff from her first full day. She met a little girl also named Angelina, also new to the school, and her parent introduced themselves to us. Our first French family contact! We will meet up with them this weekend for our first social gathering. Cannot wait!!

The school day starts at 9:00am and finishes at 4:30pm for the kids. With a lunch break from 12:00-1:35. We bought cafeteria tickets for the kids, to enjoy a hot lunch at school instead of coming home for lunch, leaving us to take them back for playtime. They complained about the food and ate very little the first day, which was to be expected, with so many new things happening to them this week. Very few kids eat hot lunch at school. Most go home. Packed lunches are not an option, as they are not allowed! At least that way there are no worries about allergies! Daniel and Angelina have to stay in the cafeteria until their lunch is completed, and they sit with their classmates, not together. Both kids have to adjust to the rules of their new school, as do we! But I think we can be very happy here.

Tuesdays and Thursday they have a French Second Language teacher coming in to tutor our children. It makes me very happy to hear it! Also the kids will not fall behind a year like we originally thought, and have been placed in Grade 1 and Grade 3 as they would have in Canada. The teacher’s send extra homework for the kids to do, and quickly they learn French. Once the work sheets come home, I translate, and we learn as a family! Brilliant! Thanks to Sandy and Dorothy!

I caught Angelina singing in French after the first day of school. They do singing and dancing games during gym time. It eased my mind to think, okay she will be fine.

The school week schedule is Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday with Wednesdays off. This week Friday is a holiday, so no school. November 11th is their version on Remembrance Day, a commemoration of WWI. De l’anniversaire de l’Armistice, is the name. We will meet up with kids and parents from the school as well as Capestang residents at 11:00am, in front of the Mairie or City hall, and walk through the town, until we get to the cemetery, and pay our respects.

There seems to be a whole lot of holidays in France! I love it! Gives us loads of time to explore Capestang, look for a home, and enjoy the sites of South France.

When the kids come home from school, we listen to French learning CDs as we eat an early dinner and then do homework. We have to eat early, being the days are long and they are starving by the time they come home. Once that is done, it is almost time for bed. It is very busy, and we a grateful that there’s only 4 days of school per week. The curriculum is not too difficult for the children, pretty much the same standards as Canada. The family focus is learning the French language and we are enjoying the comedic practice on the local butcher, baker and candlestick maker. I still have not found the last!

That’s Hamori!

Market Day Capestang France

thatshamori — Wed, 9 Nov 2011 04:01:00 GMT

Market Day, Capestang

Rain or shine the people come in droves with satchel in hand to fill at the market. On Wednesday and Sunday’s, located in the town square, the market has a full range of fresh products, and cooked foods, as well as odds and ends to offer visitors a wide range of shopping needs.

People from the neighboring villages fill this square, and the regular Capestang residents know them well, as this is the biggest market in the area.

Today we sampled the shrimp lettuce rolls from the Chinese Food van, bought a roasted chicken with potatoes for dinner, and fruits and veggies for the week ahead.

The delicatessen had loads of salamis, headcheese and fresh cheeses. We bought beautiful creamy Brie and a dried hearty sausage to try. An old couple sold walnuts out of their trunk, and they were so cute we bought a bag full. We stopped off at the bakery again to buy our daily bread (and forgive our trespasses), and sampled their chorizo sausage bread that didn’t make it home.

Rounded out with a florist selling beautiful fresh cut bouquets, a knickknack, 2x clothing, 2x jewelry, 2x roast chicken and 2x produce, stands all operating out of their vehicles. I love the idea of roasting chicken in my car and selling it. Of course this appeals to me!

Trucks with pop out awnings, and open sides with display windows, complete with refrigeration units and a generator, bringing the products to Capestang. The market gives residents and tourists alike the chance, twice a week, to gather, enjoy chatting with the vendors and their neighbors. The two café’s on either side of the market are full of Sunday social seekers. One of which even has free Internet connection. What a great way to build community!

For more information on the Hamori family and how we started this family adventure, follow us on www.thatshamori.com

See you there!

That's Hamori!

Market Day

Capestang, France Our Little French Village

thatshamori — Fri, 4 Nov 2011 01:27:00 GMT

Capestang, France

Exactly 2 km away, is the house we fell in love with from our marathon house hunt back in September. Located in the Languedoc Region, in the compartment of Herault, you may remember, it was the one with a 3-gite rental barn conversion plus a 6-bedroom house with quaint blue shutters and a pool. Named ‘Le Petite Saint Nazaires’ after the Le Grande Saint Nazaires vineyard and property all around it, this home was once their wine keepers home, and later sold and converted to apartment rental units as well as a large family home.

When the European banks took a turn, similar to the US banking situation over a year ago, they decided to tighten their belts. Our attempt at owning this property failed and Le Petite Saint Nazaires became out of reach.

The little French town of Capestang, located right on the Canal du Midi, where Le Petite Saint Nazaires is located, however, is still within reach. Entering the town along a long narrow main road, both sides are lined with giant plain trees that touch high above your head. The town creeps up, and a border of homes welcomes you. You drive up towards the town square, through little light colored row houses, along twisting and turning narrow streets, towards the church steeple peeking above the rooftops. Once there, the church reveals ruin remains, with a story to discover, with strength stands in the square. Cafés with outdoor seating, people with baguettes under their arm scurry away, giving a sense of life here. Birds that sound like a child’s squeeze toy are foreign to me, and I think to ask their name, but who? Time will reveal the secrets of the square; the wildlife and the French people who live here.

With Wednesday and Sunday morning markets, a 3000+ population and a central South France location, this little community is exactly what we’re looking for. Not too big, not too small, but just right! Small town living that’s a close 35 min trip to the Mediterranean Coast, and in between the big cities of Narbonne and Beziers where you can find everything. Giving my children a close knit French lifestyle, with everything in reach, might be the ticket.

We met a lovely English couple, Mavis and Mike, who have vacationed in Capestang for over 20 years. They just finished a complete renovation on their new home, and are letting out their original home to us. What luck! Our traditional village house, in the center of town, is the perfect starting location for another house hunt. Two rooms up on the third floor, kitchen and living second and a laundry and spare room on the ground floor, with a garage for storage. Our kitchen window opens to the street, and is close to a Pizzeria and a little Bakery. Steps away from the best reasonably priced restaurant in town, and a 5 min walk to the square and 5 min walk in the other direction to the Canal du Midi. I love our rental home. Soup is already on the stove on low boil. And the boys come home with fresh baguettes under arm.

With a lower budget, we search the surrounding areas and save loads of money in the doing. Scouring the area for the perfect house with a barn, we look for one with a barn to convert to rental units. Or 2 village houses side by side offering the life style in Capestang we love.

There is a biking/walking path along the Canal that takes you right down to the Sea. Boats are parked along the shores, full of travelers from all over Europe looking for this beauty. The fall leaves hang on the trees that line the banks, yellow, orange, and red against the blue sky. The water silently flows by, boat passengers wave at the kids, ducks quack asking for food, making our first walk along the Canal memorable.

While we drove the landscape of Minervois looking for other villages like Capestang further North West, amazing untouched hills covered in vines, tree lined roads, hills covered with black trunked shout trees; greeted us. Then a little village pops out of nowhere, and a bustling community reveals itself. It feels like the true South of France I had imagined.

October 31, Halloween! Our kids beg us to go to Narbonne in search of costumes. We hit the mall, and sure enough, Angelina found a white bride dress, and Daniel chose a pirates outfit. We walked around a little, and one store loaded the kids up with piles of candy! We didn’t know anyone to knock on their door, so we went home and waited for the neighbors to knock on ours. We left the kitchen window open, and the light on, and the kids found us! Angelina and Daniel handed out candy and enjoyed their first Halloween in France.

We are enjoying our first few days in Capestang.

For more information on the Hamori family and how we started our travel adventure, visit us at www.thatshamori.com

That’s Hamori!

Juan les Pin, Antibes France

thatshamori — Fri, 28 Oct 2011 20:11:00 GMT

The rain came down hard as we left our pretty little coast town in Italy. With not much to see or do in the rain, we decided we would leave the other 4 Cinque Terre towns for another time and blasted up the coast through horizontal wind and rain storms until we reached the French border. We turned off the highway, and drove through Monte Carlo, Monaco!

Between Cannes and Nice lies the French Medeterraen city of Juan les Pin, part of the commune of Antibes.

We stumbled across this spot, after a whole day of travel. We thought Nice was our destination point, but not so! Not so nice, Nice, as we got lost, circled, double parked and probably committed more traffic violations in the 2 hours than in our lives combined! Hungry and lost, we hit the info centre, where a totally indifferent woman directed us out of the city, saying if you have no business here, get out! She gave us a brochure on resorts along the coast that might have a swimming pool, as was our Angelina’s birthday wish. Ok, don’t have to tell us twice, we are outta here! Famished we pulled up in the Meridian Hotel drop off parking, which was beside a McDonald’s. Lucky for us the Meridian ‘airport pickup’ vans are Mercedes Vianos like ours! We ran in, ordered the worst late lunch we ever had and made our way to the closest hotel with indoor pool!

Garden Beach Hotel would have been great, except no pool for kids after 4:30, and it does not open until 11:30 the next day! What? 200Euros/ night plus 20Euros for parking, plus 10Euros/adult and 5Euros/kid for the swimming pool we can’t use. Are they kidding!? Welcome to the French Riviera! Good bye Garden Beach, hello Best Western, 82Euros/night, the man gave us the best room they had with a sea view! Harry loves Canadians! Kids ate breakfast for free!! SOLD

By then we were completely exhausted. The rain got us chilled to the bone, we came upstairs with just our Pyjamas in hand and left our luggage in the van thinking, don’t get comfy we leave first thing. Deciding to grab a cheap bite to eat and walk around, we were turned on to a lovely little pasta restaurant, with reasonable priced food. Buyer beware! Drinks are the killer on the Riviera! 4 Euros for a 2 ounce apple juice, 7 Euros for a small beer, our meal totalling 70Euros!! Ouch! I was ready to leave right then. Back to the hotel for a sleep, I let the kids stay up late to watch Flicka in French. Does that count as homeschooling? Yes!

By morning the weather had changed, 20 degrees, and this little village came alive with people walking about, swimmers, sun bathers, street sellers, and tourists at every turn. And it was Angelina’s birthday! We decided to stay another night and looked around town for Angelina’s present, a baby doll that cries. The kids scooted around.

After we let the kids swim in the sea until it got too cold! Alfonz and I sipped beer, ate olives and watched our kids play. Finally a moment of peace. Now I understand the appeal of the French Riviera. White sand beaches, little coves instead of one long beach, seaside rental beach-chairs with waiters that serve you and the warm fall weather, that even today it was hot enough to swim! Excellent

After quick showers, we went to the grocery store for some food, and stopped in at a fancy ice cream cafe and ordered a special birthday treat! Happy Birthday Angelina!

If you would like to know more about the Hamori family and how we started our adventure, visit us at www.thatshamori.com

See you there!

That's Hamori!

Cliffs of Cinque Terre- Portovenere

thatshamori — Wed, 26 Oct 2011 19:48:00 GMT

Where are we, Heaven? The earth reaches to a point, out stretched jagged rock, where houses cling to see the blue green Mediterranean Sea below. Such angelic beauty can only be created by a higher power. That is this southern spot on Cinque Terre called Portovenere.

The Palazzatta of fortress houses was built to defend the colony founded by the Genoese Republic. The houses high and lean, against one another, the foundations firmly secured to the rock clearly reveal the linear and closed plan of the town. The facades of these fortress-houses have small windows but no balconies. Down on the rocks they show solid stone and lime mortar walls. With the execution of the project for the barrier of the fortress houses on the sea front the Genoesis entrusted a guild of masters called ‘Magistri Antelami” because they came form the valley of Antelamo near lake Maggiore. The plan of the medieval town functional to its defence and commerce was a model for other Genoese settlements of the Mediterranean Sea.

La Spezia is a bigger seaside town close by, the only way in or out of Portovenere. We asked for help at a pastry shop, and they were nice enough to point us in the right direction.

Up until now, Italy has been an adventure of not planning, instead searching for accommodations once in the destination area. I don’t recommend this to people that may find this stressful. We are getting good at leaving early enough to allow 5 hours open to find a place to lay our heads and rest. With 3 hours travel to the next town, and a two-day stay, it really is slow travel. The kids cannot stand more in the van with out going a little stir-crazy.

Today, we did not find parking on the one-way street around Portovenere. Alfonz saw someone’s garage open and pulled in. It happened to be an apartment with a vacancy. 100 Euros per night based on two nights, with a kitchen and a view of the entire harbor below. Not the best deal for our budget but the view! I started to hand wash our laundry and planned to cook a meal or two straight off.

We walked to the town and back a few times to find food and supplies. The grocery store closed from 1:00 to 4:00, a jack knife in our plans, but lesson learned. In Italy they still siesta between 1:00 – 4:00 each day. And everything closes on Sundays except restaurants.

Daniel and Angelina spent hours throwing rocks into the water, jumping from one bolder to the next and talked with every fisherman along the way asking to show them their catch! Even though it was off-season, Sunday was packed full of tourists, taking in the great 17 degree fall weather. We saw bathers swim in the water and sprawl out in the sun to dry. 2 young bikers threw off their clothes and took a bath in the sea and then went on their way. On the way back I noticed one had left his socks!

The next day the weather turned. We decided to enjoy a family day. I finished up the laundry, pulling off the wire before they soaked in the downpour and dried them on the towel warmer, and then organized our bags. We stocked up on food supplies and we went to sleep early after a movie night! I loved these last few days, no Internet, no phone, just us. This is exactly why we are doing this.

The owner gave us 10 Euros off our price because of the rain? I don’t really know, we couldn’t understand her. She liked the kids and threw in 2 bottles of wine!

That’s Hamori!

For more information on the Hamori family and how our travel adventure began, follow us at www.thatshamori.com

Tomorrow Monte Carlo, Monaco, Nice and Antibes, France!

Romeo and Juliet's Verona

thatshamori — Wed, 26 Oct 2011 19:42:00 GMT

Verona’s city centre is filled with things to see: ancient ruins, cobblestone-walking paths, a high-end shopping strip and bridges over the Adige River.

The town square, home to their Roman Arena where combat and lions, and Olympic athletic events must have occurred in ancient times. The beautifully preserved artifact is a full size museum to the Roman life once lived.

From here we walked down the main walking street, windows displaying the latest fashion, people dressed up like live pop outs from these windows who walked along side us. Their dogs pooping in the streets to divert! Not my favourite French pass-time!

You can hear different languages on the breeze during this warm fall day. Look around and you might think it was the middle of summer, packed with lively tourists and the sun shining bright.

Verona is the backdrop for Shakespeare’s Play- Romeo and Juliet, with homes of each on display. We visited Juliet’s home, one I recognized from the movie, Letters to Juliet. People write their names on the wall or write letters to Shakespeare’s most famous heroine, Juilet to be answered. The phonomenon is documented in the non-fiction book “Letters to Juliet”, by Lise Friedman and Ceil Friedman, which the film was based on. Women that work there, answer the letters.

It is easy to imagine needing a place to answer love’s questions, when immersed in such a romantic medieval place like Verona. Shakespeare probably had real life experiences to draw from when writing his famous play, maybe baring witness to many broken hearts, and the agony of first love.

You can see young lovers on every corner of Verona. Romance and Italy go hand in hand. Must be the right combination of food, air, and views to stir the passion.

We went into one of the typical restaurants in the piazza. The hostess lady lured us in with her gypsy charm. We watched the travelers go by, sipping our beers, letting the kids scoot around the sidewalks until our food arrived.

Over priced for what you get, but worth the people watching spot! The lady heard us talking Hungarian, and sure enough she was from an outside Hungarian community in Romanian. She spoke; Hungarian, her mother tongue, Romanian, Spanish, Arabic, Italian and a little German and English. Impressive for this single mother living among the Italians who makes a good living in the tourist section. She happens to love her life. She said the Northern Italian people are gently and friendly, and have accepted her whole-heartedly. She gave out balloons to the children that passed by, and sure enough this restaurant was packed full while others had no one at all.

We took some restaurant bread sticks with us for a later snack. Angelina saw a homeless lady with 4 dogs under blankets sitting on the side of the road on our way back to the B&B. Angelina generously gave up our breadsticks for the hungry dogs. She made me very proud.

Our ideally located B&B was just okay. The breakfast just okay too. Would I visit this city again, yes! I would probably try to find accommodations outside the main area and spend an extra day in the town centre exploring each little store, church and ruin.

From here we are going to the Cinque Terre area. 5 towns on the coastal rocky cliffs!

That’s Hamori

That’s Hamori!

For more information on the Hamori family and how our adventure started, visit us at www.thatshamori.com

Romeo and Juliet's Verona