My family left South Korea and immigrated to Buenos Aires when I was two. Now 34, it's the first time I've been back to the place I spent my early childhood. It's been 25 years too long. Thanks to the Sorkoo Adventure, not just one, but two Koos are back in town!
Natalie and I spent two days in Buenos Aires (BA) before Julie arrived. We used our time to relax and get acquainted with the neighborhood we were staying in, Palermo. We did a bit of shopping, explored the markets, viewed the street art, drank coffee and Malbec and ate delicious pizza and parilla. Time went by quickly and before we knew it, Julie had arrived. It was great to see family and a friend and very exciting to start reminiscing.
Our first adventure took us on a 10 mile journey through the city. BA is a A LOT bigger than I remembered! I guess everything seems a lot bigger when you're a kid. We walked through several neighborhoods before reaching the famous obelisk which looks like a mini version of the Washington Monument. We then had a nostalgic pizza meal for lunch. Nostalgic for Julie and me and different for Natalie. BA pizza is very different from NYC pizza. More similar to Chicago style, BA pizza crust is thicker and the cheese is heavier. After lunch we walked to the San Telmo neighborhood to wander the street market that takes place every weekend. After some rest, we enjoyed a nice dinner with a good bottle of Malbec.
On day two, we boarded the bus to La Boca. Colorful buildings line the streets in a contrast that is surprisingly appealing to the eyes. This is the home of Tango! Pick any lunch spot and you are guaranteed to watch tango dancers while enjoying your meal. We sat down for a lunch of choripan and homemade pasta made complete with live music and a tango performance. That night we feasted on empanadas, melted cheese, olives, pickles, mushrooms and of course, a bottle of Malbec! Again, all of it very nostalgic minus the Malbec :)
Day 3 was another wonderful day filled with lots of walking. We grabbed coffee and walked around our neighborhood, Palermo. Then, we headed to the fancy neighborhood of Recoleta. We passed museums and parks but the main attraction is the large cemetery that is the final resting place for Buenos Aires elite, including Eva "Evita" Peron. The cemetery is endless and a beautiful and peaceful place to stroll. We then walked to this amazing bookstore that was once a theater. The stage is now a cafe and the bookshelves sit under a wonderfully painted ceiling. Amazing! We had a long walk back to our neighborhood so we stopped for some dulce de leche ice cream. Our feet sure were tired but it was a wonderful day.
We saved our final day in BA to travel to the suburb where Julie and I grew up. After an hour and 40 minute bus ride, we arrived. From the minute we stepped off the bus everything came back to Julie and me. Sure, things have changed, but we had no problems remembering what used to be where and what still remained. We felt like kids in a candy store. We ventured to the street where my parents clothing store was and where we spent the majority of our childhood. Talk about going back in time!
There were two other stores we spent the majority of our childhoods in. A bakery owned by two of our best friends (Pamela and Guido) and a barber shop owned by a father like figure that I called Tio (uncle in Spanish). I had spent a lot of time wondering if I'd ever see Pamela, Guido, and Tio over the last 25 and what it would be like to see them again. So we looked around... the bakery sign was still there but it was rotting away and the store had changed. The barber shop had also changed. But then, Julie spotted a barber shop across the street with a man in a red shirt reading a book. Could it be??? My heart started racing and my mind was all over the place. We ran across the street and we entered the barber shop. He looked like Tio but we weren't certain. This man was a lot older than I remembered Tio being. Only one way to find out. "Oscar"? "Si". We told him our names but it didn't click right away. Seconds later his jaw dropped and tears trickled down his cheeks as they did down ours. We hugged so much and for so long that I forgot to introduce him to my better half. I introduced Natalie and he hugged her as warmly as he hugged Julie and me. Welcome to the family :) We spent the next two hours catching up with Tio and I even got a much needed haircut. As a child, Tio had promised me free haircuts for a lifetime and he kept his word that day. It was the best haircut ever. Tio called his wife (Olga) and son (Hernan) and soon it was a true family reunion. They wouldn't let us leave without agreeing to join them for dinner so we promised to come back later that night after exploring the old neighborhood.
We had lunch at our favorite childhood pizza place. We found our schools, our old homes and the spot where we took Tae Kwon Do lessons. We enjoyed coffee at the store that our mom went to almost every day. Time flew and before we knew it, it was time for dinner with Tio. Dinner was at Hernan's with his wife and their beautiful 18 month old baby. We enjoyed a delicious meal and great conversations about the past, the present and the future. We video called our parents and they all couldn't stop laughing and catching up. It was a magical moment. Goodbyes included more tears and promises to stay in touch. It was a really special night for everyone and the perfect way to end our time in Buenos Aires.
