05/08/2008
Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu, India.
A night of mosquito bites (and the fact that the beach was more than a 2 minute walk away - how rude) prompted us to find another place to stay. It was over 30 degrees, and there was no way i was going to walk around looking. So, after my morning chai.... I did something i said i wasn't going to do in India - i hired a motorbike. At first, the roads seem beyond chaotic - they appear downright crazy and dangerous. As an onlooker, it makes you wonder why you don't see accidents everywhere you look. But after experiencing it as a rider, it is more like an ordered chaos, with a few very simple rules:
1. If you are little, give way to big.
2. Sound your horn as much as possible when near others (cars, bikes, pedestrians, cows, goats) -
let them know you are there (side mirrors aren't used here - they just get smashed off in traffic).
3. If something / someone is in your way, try your hardest not to hit it / them.
And that's about it. Simple really. So, on the very reliable ("new!" he called it - i think that meant it's been serviced this year) TVS scooter, we scooted the back streets of Auro beach to find a new residence. We found a few pretty cool ones, but wanted to check out the Auroville community on the beach - 'Repo'. Unfortunately they didn't have any room left, so directed us to the neighboring community - 'Waves'. A sunburnt forehead and a lot of sweat later, we found the entrance. The only way in was from the beach - there is no street frontage at all! Luckily they had room - we actually got to choose our "capsule" (a coconut palm shack raised above the sand on granite posts), and it was incredibly cheap. Rs. 150/person/night. A bit less than $4. And with our accomodation sorted, it was time to check out Pondy.
Before going in to town though, we decided to see what this Auroville was all about. About 8kms inland from Auro Beach, it is an amazing project started in the late '60's by 'The Mother'. (I won't go into the full history - those who are interested can read all about it here: www.auroville.org It is well worth a look). Simply put, she wanted to create a city where people could live in harmony with eachother, regardless of race, creed, colour or nationality. A city where money was not the driving force; rather creativity and harmony. I was genuinely inspired and amazed to find a place with such values being lived day to day. There are currently over 2000 Aurovillians (about 30 nationalities are represented), with the ultimate city destined to house 50,000. And what they have done in 40 years is astonishing. They have literally transformed a desert wasteland, into a forested community. Regeneration has been so successful, you would not believe the 'before' pictures were the same place. But i am rambling now where i said i wouldn't! The part i wanted to get to, and that i will talk about later, is something that took a few days of return visits to be allowed into...
But, with the trusty TVS under us now, it was time to head into town. By the time we had returned from Auroville, it was about 16:45. Peak hour. But of course, i'm not thinking of such things - i'm on holidays! But think about it is something i really should have done.. Jumping in the deep end, trial by fire, whatever you want to call it - welcome to India's roads. Yee ha!!!! I just wish that we had the camera out for that initial journey into town. It is something i did many times while here, but nothing compared to that first trip. I think i could ride almost anywhere in the world now...
Pondy is a small city, with few attractions that could get me in there (with a shack on the beach, means to get around, good food and chai near my doorstep - why would i?). Sure, there are some nice French buildings, a big statue of Ghandi, a large central park... But, yawn, that's not what i came to see. We attempted to find the 'Hugging Mother' who we had heard so much about, but failed on that front. We ended up at the Sri Aurobindo Ashram (The Mothers spiritual partner, teacher and part inspiration for Auroville - an amazing and inspirational being), and am very glad we did. The Ashram has been around since before the '20's, and as soon as you enter, you can feel the years of enlightened thinking and good will that has seeped into the walls and gardens. A calm automatically descends on you within a minute of entering. It harbours an incredibly peaceful atmosphere - horns aren't used on the roads surrounding it, and cars/bikes avoid the area if possible; small racoon type creatures jump about the trees, careless of the 100's of people paying respect to The Mother and Sri Aurobindo; birds frolicking everywhere creating a cacophony of sound.... I sat in the gardens for a good half an hour just appreciating it all! It is incredible to see a place so full of peace, love, devotion and respect, yet free of religion and exclusivity. Hindu's, Christians and Muslims alike, all paying respect to these amazing figures of Pondicherry, 4 decades and more after their passing. I thought that here was where the 'Hugging Mother' resided, but she wasn't there, and i couldn't quite coax the info out of anyone.
Returning to Auroville, and the part i skipped above, is the Matrimandir - the "Soul of Auroville". At the near centre of the planned city (the geographical centre being an amazing Banyan tree; about the only tree there in 1968 when they chose the spot), the Aurovillians have built (and are still finishing) a huge sphearical, golden structure, as a place where people can attempt to find their conciousness. Basically, a very well designed and thought through meditation chamber. Needless to say, i was intrigued, but to get inside is not something any tourist can just do at the drop of a hat...
So over the course of the next 3 or 4 days, we worked our way towards a visit to the inner chamber, and on Didi's last day (that's right - she's leaving!) we got our 15 min of meditation inside. And wow. What an incredible achievement! This place is simply breathtaking. After the initial visit, you are permitted to book for 1 hour sessions from 5 - 6pm. Which of course i did - the initial 15 min visit was over before i knew it, and i was keen to experience a full hour within the central chamber (there are 12 'petals' surrounding the sphere, which are used for silent contemplation and meditation also - maybe a return visit?). I will upload some of the pics from the website (obviously no camera's are allowed) so you can all see what i'm spluttering about....
And yes, Didi is leaving! After 7 months away from Israel, she is incredibly homesick, and needs to see friends and family (no she's not sick of me... I don't think!?). After some very difficult planning (everything is difficult in India), we managed to get her home for a tiny amount of money. So, she will spend August at home, and i will wander the south of India alone.. We will meet up again, in about a month, maybe in Goa, maybe Mumbai. We'll see how far i have wandered by then! As much as i will miss her (and believe me i will), it is really perfect for us both. She needs to see family, and I need this time to myself...
After a mere 10 days here, I have so much more i could talk about - Krishna, the ever smiling drug dealer; Kanon, the chai walla's son and local stone carver; my constant struggle to feel clean (salt water showers!); the craziness of Sundays at the beach; my ever shortening dreadlocks (they no longer touch my shoulders!); the food; the chai; the beggars; laptop repair by the sea (it's nearly working properly - at least i can type this).... The list goes on, but this episode is long enough!
So, as you may have noticed, Pondy and Auroville have really touched me, and I could happily stay longer. However, the rest of India awaits. My outgoing flight will most likely be from Chennai, so a return visit is highly likely..
