28/07/2008
Chennai to Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu, India.
And so, after successfully exiting Sri Lanka, we arrived safely in Chennai, India. Again, with absolutely no clue as to where i was going from the airport (more of my planning ability). I had no idea that Chennai (Madras) was India's 4th largest city, and seeing the urban sprawl from the plane was both exciting and daunting. Luckily, while waiting at immigration, we ran into Wayne (who we had also seen in Colombo's Sri Lankan Air office when we changed our tickets) - an Aussie surfer who has spent a lot of time in and around India. He was keen to share a taxi to where he was going - a guest house in Triplicane where he has spent a bit of time over the last 30 years. Sounded good to me. We managed to squeeze the 3 of us, all our bags and Wayne's surfboard into the iconic Ambassodor cab. We began to share stories and info, but that soon became impossible - the Indian obsession with REALLY loud music hasn't changed since my last visit; but now they have sub woofers. It didn't worry me - the music was awesome (traditional Indian sounds with a FAT baseline) and i couldn't keep my eyes from the sights outside.
Wow. Welcome to India!! Even though i've been before, it is still a shock to the senses to return. The extreme poverty, the incredible filth, the countless colours, the endless noise... It all culminates in an eye and mind opening slap in the face - a slap which left a grin on my face and butterflies in my stomach. Oh how exciting to be here again! I had some reservations as to how Didi would deal with it, but she has proven me wrong, and has been smiling since we arrived.
An excitement ridden taxi ride (i have been on the roads in over 12 countries, but India still takes the cake) saw us arrive in Triplicane, at the Broadlands Guest House. While it was in a very busy part of town (where isn't in an Indian city of that size), once inside, it was remarkably quiet. The building is a rambling warren of a place - 3 stories with a central courtyard, and more rooms than i could ever have thought possible from outside. Apparently, it was built in the early days of Madras by a rich merchant, to house his many wives. We stayed in room 20 - i think it went up to about 45...
In our room, we even made friends of the animal variety - instead of the Thai dogs, a league of cats adopted us there. One scrawny male in particular, would wait outside until we returned from our forays, to run upstairs and chill in our room. And for India, they were clean animals... Very skinny, yet free of the fleas and mange so common here. We also met Faye Flower on our rooftop (it overlooked the local mosque) - a classic Aussie bird who was great to talk to, a wealth of information, and full of great stories. The travellers you meet in India are always of a different breed - down to earth yet spiritual, comfortable with life and themselves, always smiling and up for a chat. It seems she's spent most of her life travelling - not seeing Australia for up to 11 years at a time, years of living in India and Nepal, stories of Bali in 1969 - an inspirational person to meet! And all with that Aussie attitude, humour and ability to laugh at everything. She left us with some great advice on places to visit in Kerala - most likely my next destination after I leave Tamil Nadu.
And of course, those who know me, and my obsession with chai, will understand my need to experience the real deal again... The main street obviously housed many a chai wallas, yet how easy it was to find the best... At about 6am on our first morning, i went for a walk (since leaving Australia, i can't sleep past 6 or 6.30), nearly buying one from the nearest walla. A look down the street however showed about 15 locals crowded together. On further inspection, it was a queue for chai. With the other 2 wallas hosting 1 or 2 patrons each, i figured i had found the best. And the best it certainly was! Again, those who know me will know how proud i am of my chai making abilities - I now appreciate how much of a novice i really am, and what REAL chai can be. It is truly an art form. From keeping the boiling milk 'skinless', to the masala and the tea, mixing the sugar, and even serving it. This man was by far the best i have seen! Chai pouring from one cup to another from the length of his fully outsretched arms. If only i had thought to take photo's. But I was captivated. Unable to even look away, let alone think of the camera! Thin streams of chai standing over a metre high only to fall perfectly, without a drop spilt, into the cup in his other hand. I guess, 10 or more hours a day of making chai will do that. And the taste! I have a long way to go in my masala making, that is for sure.. I was in Chennai for only 2 days, but he knew my face well well by the time i left.
With only very vague plans for where to go next, we decided to head to Pondicherry (now officially renamed to Pudecherry, but known to most as 'Pondy'). With recommendations coming from my old neighbours in the Dandenongs, the French couple in our guest house, and Wayne, it seemed the logical place to start. Previously under French rule (i think right up until Independance in '47), home to the Hugging Mother, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, the Auroville community project, a reasonably large city, and many a filthy beach, i was curious to say the least. An event filled autorickshaw ride to the bus terminal was i guess inevitable - some bargaining to get a decent price, cramming the 2 of us and our packs in the back, nearly running out of fuel, an accident with a motorbike (we rear ended him at a set of lights), and getting onto 2 wheels on the way into the terminal. Yet again, welcome to India! We found the ECR Pondy bus without too much trouble, and settled in for the 4 hour journey. Sweating like a pig in the ancient and typically overcrowded bus, i was ready to experience being in the 'big' vehicle again (little always gives way to big - no matter what side of the road you are on).
A relatively uneventful journey found us at the Pondy bus terminal by about 6pm, and with an hour of light left, we simply started walking. We stopped for a chai (surprise surprise) where we met an auto driver who was very keen to tell us all about Pondy and the better places to stay - of course, i'm sure, cause he'd get a fair out of us. But very helpful he was! After our chai's, something to eat, and a bit of bargaining, we were in the auto, and on our way to Auro beach. Arriving in pitch black didn't help with our sense of direction, but apparently we were near the beach! It was a cool little shack with a thatch roof - beautiful, but mosquito ridden...
And tomorrow we begin to explore Pondy!
