The 'slow boat'. Well, it wasn't that slow, just that they had 'speed boats', too, and the passengers all had helmets... so the slow boat it was.
Only after going through border control, our 'helpful' leader told the group a number of porkies, all designed to get us to spend money with him rather than later on... like how there's only one atm in laos. and that we must exchange our thai money right there... and it went on. so, 7 hours in the long slow boat, with 50 other tourists and a few locals...
The first day dragged, and we all tried to stay comfy on the little bench seats. Every so often we'd pull over to the side of the river when a villager waved, and we'd pick them up, or drop someone off, or the driver would buy a fish and sticky rice for himself. (Got the feeling the locals use the tourists 'slow boat' as a free shuttle up and down the river). Still, great views of bamboo jungle surrounding the murky unknown of the Mekong. We passed many places where strong whirlpools were spinning, and were happy to have the big boat then. We passed a few floaters too. pigs. buffalo. hmm.
Overnight half way to Luang Prabang, a fork in the river called Pak Beng. I'm sure this unfortunate little community exists to cater to the one night stopoverers, and the service follows suit. Sure, we chose a cheap room (less than 3 dollars;) and it was ok, but since we didn't eat our meal in their 'restaurant, they were a little miffed the morning after, and accused us of not paying the our room! ha! Quite funny really, there were no numbers on the doors, and the list said we had room 8, but in actual fact they gave us room 2. so they wanted us to pay for that room as well! hehe. Just a little trick that might work every so often for them...
The second day on the river was much the same as the first, but the scenery got more interesting, mountainous, and junglier. (new word!). This is the first time I've seen mists like this, all day every day, and it makes for great sunsets and layered mountain views.