Istanbul, the gateway to Asia and also the first stop on my grand adventure from Turkey all the way to New Zealand.
My friend Mehmet's father, Mustafa, picked me up from the airport
and drove me
through the city to their beautiful apartment in a compound that sits
high up on the hills overlooking the Bosphorus. I was immediately
adopted by the family, given Mehmet's old room and even offered the use
of his clothes. Since I'll be travelling for the next seven months I
hadn't exactly brought any nice clothes. Turkish hospitality is almost
overwhelming. I have been made to feel completely at home by Mustafa,
his wife Melek, their daughter Sinem and her fiancee Ergin.
It was actually Mustafa's birthday the day I
arrived, luckily I came armed
with gifts, and that night we headed out to celebrate. One entire side
of the restaurant, Topaz, was thirty feet high plate glass windows, with a
stunning view of the Bosphorus Bridge, and the sea. Our table was of
course front and center. I sat there mesmerized by the view while
stuffing myself with Turkish delicacies all washed down by a Turkish
liquor called Raki. Think a slightly stronger Ouzo (45%) that is
served on ice and mixed with water.
Was up and out of the apartment by 1000 the next morning and spent
the next eight hours wandering around the old city. Saw the Topkapi
Palace, including the Harem, the Blue Mosque, The Basilica of Hagia
Sophie, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar, plus multiple other less
known Mosques and sites. Got lost a few times, managed to avoid the
huge riots between the Labor Unions and the Riot Police who seemed
determined to celebrate the first of May by recreating the 1977 Taksim
Square Massacre. Had some tea and did a little writing before taking a
taxi back the apartment. Of course, the driver tried to change the set
price when we arrived. This started a heated argument where I told him
he could have the 25 lira or nothing. It ended with me throwing the
money at him as I stepped out of the cab followed by a torrent of
Turkish cuss words. All in all a very satisfactory day, the weather is
so nice here I even got a little sunburned.
That night, Thursday, we had a dinner party where I met much of the
extended Saracer family. The food was delicious, all hand made by
Mustafa over the past two days. His uncle is a very famous Turkish
journalist and at one point he had to get up from the table to make a
phone call. Next thing I know they turn on the TV and he is talking on
the news, via the phone in the bedroom, about the day's riots. He
talks for about ten minutes, hangs up and then rejoins us for desert.
All very surreal.
On Friday I had my first experience of the Istanbul Metro system.
It is quick, clean and cheap. Only 1.30 YTL per journey, maybe London
should learn what with it's ridiculous Tube prices. Went to see Taksim
Square, where the riots had been in full force the day before. Still a
small police presence but nothing compared to the army of riot cops who
had been out the day before. Walked down to Galata tower where you get
a great 360 degree view of the entire city before stopping for lunch at
one of the many restaurants that pack the quays of the Bosphorus.
Finished the walk off with a quick visit of the Istanbul Modern Art
Museum.
That night I went out with an old friend from university, Burak. He
took me to an incredible fish restaurant on the Bosphorus. Never saw a
menu, Burak would just speak to the waiter and another delicious plate
would arrive. This was followed by a quick tour of Istanbul nightlife
at various bars.
Saturday was a slightly later start than usually due to the previous
evenings activities. Went to visit the Dolmabahce Palace with it's
myriad of chandeliers, including one that weighs four and a half tons!
Wandered through some of the parks and had some tea at a cafe
overlooking the Bosphorus.
On Sunday morning Mustafa, Melek and I walked down to the Bebek area
and had brunch with Sirem and Ergin. Then we headed to Ergyn's
apartment for tea and coffee. It was a wonderfully relaxing day, which
my exhausted legs much needed.
Tomorrow morning I leave for Tbilisi where the adventures will truly begin.
