Five hours from Amritsar heading north to Jammu today (a stopover enroute to Kashmir). The train ride was comfortable enough and as expected - two tiered bunk seats/beds, Railway-supplied cotton sheets and pillows, a stranger's feet hanging down from the bunk bed above, jostling for seats with old ladies and kids (tickets aren't checked), staring at your fellow passengers until one side tires, ordering tea and snacks from the boys who carry their wares amiably up and down the corridors, waiting for a stop at a station to stretch your legs, avoiding the toilet...
