Having been here for two days now I still don't know what to make of Delhi. The heat isn't stiffling yet, but the atmosphere is pushing it. Everywhere you walk your senses are assaulted from the incesant pestering of touts and Rickshaw drivers to the hooting of horns proclaiming 'I'm here, look out, get outta of my way!'. The noise doesn't even stop at night. Outside of our guestouse a 'security guard' marches up and down the street tapping his truncheon on the floor. This being to ensure the local residents can hear his presence, apparantly reassuring them that he is worth the money they are paying him.
We suffered our first kidnapping at the hands of a Rickshaw driver yesterday morning. Foolishy I though: 'This guy is really friendly, let's get him to take us to the Old Delhi and the Red Fort'. Well he was, but he didn't. We ended up taking a long detour to a silk shop where he assured us we could get 50% off all items as it was 'International Womans Day' and therefore a perfect time to buy gifts for our mother, sister and girlfriends. Quite amusing really, the scams they cook up to try and sell your money and besides he's only trying the make a living so no harm done.
Old Delhi, once we arrived via metro and cycle rickshaw, was immense. We started at the calm Jain Temple opposite the Red Fort and then wandered back onto the street and picked up a cycle rickshaw which dropped us at the Jama Masjid Mosque. Unfortunately for us the mosque was closing for afternoon prayers, but Mark managed to squeeze in some photo ops with a group of Indian tourists from Chennai ( in the photos) before we had lunch. Once we entered the mosque, after paying 200R for the pleasure of taking photos, I was suitably impressed. I've not seen many buildings on the same scale in Europe and Islamic architecture is so alien that it seems like a different world. While wandering around the northern walls we ran into a couple of pilgrims from Manchester and Yorkshire who were amusing. Dead cynical about the whole place, especially the 'prophets' relics residing in the shrine next to where they were sitting. I choose to keep an open mind.
Well we're heading for Agra tomorrow and the Taj Mahal. However, a passage I read in the Rough Guide doesn't fill me with much confidence: 'filty water and open sewers are ubiquitous, power cuts routine and traffic pollution appalling' it will just add to the fun I guess......