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Longer Latitude Journey behind the Ironic Curtain

Buda on High: Várhegy

HUNGARY | Friday, 5 August 2016 | Views [312]

Within the smaller, Buda part of Budapest the focal point for most tourists centres around Castle Hill (Várhegy). On the top of the hill there is a square with St Matthias Church on one side of it and a parapet-like structure on the other.  

Originally there was a fortification on the side closer to the Danube. This section of the city castle walls was manned in the Middle Ages by city fishermen, who following a 13th century raid from a Mongolian army, were made responsible for keeping watch on invaders (hence the name "Fisherman's Bastion"). The present, silver/white coloured structure has a Medieval appearance but is actually Neo-Gothic (dating only from the end of the 19th century). The impression it conveys is that of a fairytale castle, like something improbable you'd find in Disneyland (some visitors have noted the similarity to it of the Walt Disney logo). The staircase has interesting old wall relief-sculptures worthy of examination. Access to the terrace is free of charge but if you want to go up to the turrets for higher views there is a fee. Below the parapet the land drops away sharply into a pleasant park close to the river. The castle viewed by night, when all lit up, is at its spectacular best!

Whilst we were visiting the Bastion we went downstairs into the narrow, damp, aged basement and had a viewing of a doco recounting the history of Hungary. It was very informative, especially the story of "The White Stag", a Hungarian creation myth about how twins, Hanor and Magor, founded the Hungarian nation by accident whilst out hunting the aforementioned white stag. The stag suddenly disappeared and the two hunters found themselves in a strange land where they met, kidnapped and married two Sarmatian princesses - thus uniting three peoples - the Huns, the Magyars & the Alans. The film was an enjoyable and educational diversion.

From the Bastion part of Castle Hill it's only a short walk south to the castle/palace proper. Also close by you will find souvenir markets and a wide array of good and reasonably priced restaurants. 

Tags: historic hub

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