We have just returned from the island of Mangaia, where the mosquitos outnumber people at about a million to one, or so it seems. The island receives a few flights a week and a cargo ship about once a month from Rarotonga, but still feels very isolated. It is easy to drop off the planet for a while here. Mangaia is sparsley populated and overall quite primitive compared to Rarotonga. Between the two of us, we make up more than 1% of the average annual number of foreign visitors.
The pictures included with this post provide a glimpse of the characteristic scenery of Mangaia: caves, isolated beaches, Makatea, (raised, fossilized coral reef) and dense jungle with red dirt roads winding their way through. We were fortunate enough to have another kind Cook Islander as our host. Mangaian born and well travelled, Tu made sure we were always okay and felt truly welcome. There were often fresh bananas and Paw Paw (Papaya) freely provided, and if there was not a selection lying about, a neighbor would quickly fetch some from nearby trees. On our final night, we could finally contribute something ourselves after Niels loborously husked a coconut and scraped out the tasty, white meat. (The coconuts are all over the place but the locals do not seem to eat them very often.)
Ruff, the family dog, was a great companion during our stay. He loyally followed us (often lead us) everywhere we went and slept outside our door each night. Ruff apparently takes quite a liking to the guests and has a hard time seeing them go. (characterized by his sulking as soon as he saw us with our packs) Tu sent us off with a kiss on the cheek, some chocolates for the road, and a heartfelt wish of luck and safe travels.
We will spend another week on Rarotonga until we set out for the next destination, Fiji. We are looking forward to it with much anticipation!