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DAY 303 A Sharp Turn

niels_and_amy — Tue, 18 Dec 2007 14:33:00 GMT

The time has come for us to leave the South Pacific and embark on an adventure of settling somewhere and working to make the dreams we have been having turn into reality.

For several months we have debated when to return to the States and since our funds still have not yet run out, there wasn’t much of a forcing function, other than that traveling has become our way of life and it is not longer as special as it should be. It feels so normal to jump from place to place and live out of our packs. We have grown so accustomed to travel and the South Pacific that there isn’t much in the way of anticipation or excitement when we go to a new destination – the sparkle has faded. We have had many amazing travel experiences and feel very fortunate to have been able to create this opportunity for ourselves; now it is time to pursue some other dreams.

After soaking up a few hot days in Fiji, we will catch a flight to LA and then on to Seattle. We will be transitioning to the frigid cold and the busy lifestyle while staying with family through the holidays. This experience has changed us in many ways and as a result, we will most likely not be living the same life we left. Our tolerance for crowds, traffic, rushing around and busyness is now nil – we need space, quiet and peace. We have spent every day of our travels mostly outside and now cannot even imagine being inside day in and day out, not to mention not seeing and feeling the sun for weeks on end!

We do not know yet where exactly we will end up or what we will be doing, so we are going to take our time living in a state of impermanence for a few months to allow us to try some things out, see where we fit, and ultimately continue living very happily. As we write this, we sit at the pool at some soulless hotel in touristy Nadi with the sun trying its best to burn off the high clouds covering the Fijian sky. It is a bit stuffy and humid but we’ll take it, any day, over a grey, dreary environment. We will miss so many people and places, but we will forever have the memories to treasure.

We hope you have all enjoyed following our journey, which certainly is not ending now, it is just making a sharp turn. This is also certainly not the end of our stories and pictures ‘cause despite all of this traveling, we haven’t shaken the travel bug and are sure to be off somewhere again some time. Stay tuned and drop us an email now and again if you would like to keep in touch. Happy holidays and all the best for 2008!

The explorers,
Amy and Niels

DAY 299 A Time to Treasure

niels_and_amy — Tue, 18 Dec 2007 14:32:00 GMT

As the days pass in December, the number of tourists in New Zealand is greatly increasing and soon, the number of New Zealanders on the road will skyrocket as the school holidays kick in. Now, more than ever, we are seeking out the quiet, out of the way places – those that are overlooked by most because there are no real attractions. That is the ‘attraction’ to us. On our way from the Mavora Lakes, we went off the main route to Naseby, a tiny town with a lovely, small campground. Having Kiwis (New Zealanders) as friends has made all the difference as they have given us great tips and insight into getting off the busy routes.

After a few ‘driving days’ and uneventful stops, we pulled into Christchurch and spent the morning posting ads at backpackers accommodation in hopes of selling our tent and a few camping items. (no such luck in the end – again, probably too many campervans for sale – most people do not tent camp anymore) Walking around Christchurch ended in the early afternoon as we joined up with friends we met in Vanuatu at their lovely home in the city. They hosted us for two nights and insisted on taking care of our every need. We felt like we were staying in a luxury bed and breakfast only we also got toured around, given gourmet picnics, fantastic dinners and many a lively conversation that led into the wee hours of the morning. We felt unworthy though very, very grateful.

Two months have flown by in New Zealand and we have had a truly wonderful time, not so much because of all the sights and adventures (they were great too) but for the welcoming, generous Kiwis – they have really made our trip! (Thanks to Richard and Val, David, Harriette and family, Craig, Andrew and Carol!!)

We now head to the airport for a flight to Nadi, Fiji. We are sad to be leaving New Zealand but it is getting too busy for us and it is time for another adventure, of sorts.

DAY 295 Time in Te Anau

niels_and_amy — Tue, 18 Dec 2007 14:30:00 GMT

We have been so very lucky to spend a few days off the tourist trail again. Especially so, as we got to spend the days in the company of a welcoming family. We had met them earlier this year in Samoa and promised to pay a visit if we ever ended up in their neck of the woods in Te Anau, New Zealand. Being part of the household for a while has been such a true pleasure and welcome break from sightseeing. The family’s house sits atop a hill at a breathtaking location with sweeping vistas of the lake – an amazing place to wile away some time. Playing with the kids and Islay the dog, feeding the pet lamb Bella and photographing the beautiful surroundings, quickly filled the gaps between sharing good wine and many travel stories. Taking time out of life-on-the-road is a great thing to do when traveling around for a longer time, better than any ‘must-see’ tourist attraction.

The town of Te Anau is the gateway to the Fiordland National Park, one of the most spectacular wilderness areas in New Zealand. The region is home to dramatic alpine scenery and rainforest pounded by shocking annual volumes of rain and snow. But our good fortune with the weather continued even here and we experienced 4 days of wonderful cloudless skies! Perhaps a fair downpour is a more appropriate companion to the lush forests and raging streams, but a clear sunny sky worked perfectly well for us. We must have become sun junkies in the South Pacific islands – There’s no such thing as too much sun for us anymore.

We explored a small section of the area by car and on foot but left the famous multi-day hikes for another time. No way were we going to trade a cozy night with roasted lamb, fine wine and good conversation for an uncomfortable night in a stuffy bunk room with the always present snoring chap. So in the end, we merely dipped our toes in the enthralling nature of the region, but it really does not matter, we got a good impression and we got it in an unhurried way – hugely satisfying.

DAY 289 Across the Mountains

niels_and_amy — Tue, 18 Dec 2007 14:29:00 GMT

After leaving the Marlborough Sounds, we made our way Southeast. Clouds appeared as we approached Kaikoura where we needed to stop for the night. Just as the tent was wedged between two camper vans, the clouds broke open and it poured. A terrible night was had, mostly because the campground was far too overcrowded and of course the pouring rain was a factor as well. We just wanted to turn around and drive a full day back to the Marlborough Sounds! Bright and early we woke to clear skies and quickly bolted out of the campground heading inland for the foothills of the Southern Alps.

Our next stop was the resort town of Hanmer Springs. First, we went out of our way to find the quietest of the five campgrounds and the one most likely overlooked by the hoards of campervans. We found a nice spot and after setting up the tent, had tea and lunch enjoying the peace while overly curious birds came and sat right next to our plates hoping for a nibble! The afternoon ended with a walk to the lookout over town and the surrounding hills. Of course, a visit to Hanmer Springs would not be complete without a visit to the springs themselves, so in the evening we went to sit in the hot pools after the crowds had dwindled. Expecting a chic atmosphere in a forested setting, as eluded to on the glossy brochures and advertisements, we were a bit disappointed to find it rather bland, botched together and dated. Nonetheless, we enjoyed hopping from pool to pool until we could end the evening in our own private hot pool courtesy of a free upgrade coupon I plucked from a magazine weeks ago just in case!

Via the alpine sports town of Methven and the friendly, farming town of Geraldine (whose claim to fame is the world’s largest jersey) we ended up at Lake Tekapo. After setting up camp, we walked up to the top of Mt. John. At the observatory at the top, we enjoyed a cappuccino and ginger beer at what must be the most brilliant café location in the whole of New Zealand.

We thought Lake Tekapo was electric blue until we caught sight of Lake Pukaki the next day. The brightness was surreal. Because of this striking beauty, we made very slow progress around the lake as I had to stop the car a LOT because Niels wanted to take many pictures of course. Late in the afternoon we stopped at the DOC campground in Mount Cook National Park. We pitched our tent in a valley flanked by sheer mountain cliff faces and glaciers – quite a fantastic location, further enhanced by the hiking trails that radiated out from the camp. The next day we took the track to the Sealy Tarns. The hike was exhausting but provided expansive views.

Central Otago, one of our favorite wine regions, was next up on our route. Breathtakingly beautiful scenery continued, this time varied by the presence of pastures (paddocks as they say here in NZ) filled with Merino sheep. At one point on the drive, our car became completely engulfed in a sea of sheep as a farmer was moving his sizeable herd. It was one of those moments pictured on a post card that we didn’t think occurred much anymore – what a nice, albeit crazy, surprise! The drive ended as we drove through Cromwell and into tiny Bannockburn. We pulled off the main route and into a winery that we enjoyed on our last visit to NZ. A tasting later, we sat with a bottle of rosé in the winery’s quiet garden under a cloudless sky and hot sun, just as we like it. In the evening, we popped into the local pub for a simple meal before retiring to our tent at a nearly empty campground. What a lovely day it had been.

DAY 283 Marlborough Sounds of Silence

niels_and_amy — Fri, 30 Nov 2007 07:20:00 GMT

Under a clear blue sky and blinding sun, we drove the narrow, winding coastline from Picton to the Marlborough Sounds, intending to pay a visit to a friend and relax for a few days. En route we frequently pulled over, lured by the occasional glimpses of the twinkling turquoise waters, for the chance to catch a view through the bush out onto the sound below. With little traffic and time on our side, we meandered until reaching our destination close to Portage Bay where we settled in and caught up with our friend, Craig. As Craig is quite a keen fisherman, we went out to try our hand at catching some bait fish. I haven't fished since using a Mickey Mouse fishing pole and Niels is even more inexperienced so we thought all we would catch would be sideways glances and fits of laughter but, we managed to catch a few spotties. (They are not good for anything and ended up right back in the water but we were just happy to catch something!)

The next few days passed quite uneventfully but blissfully nonetheless. We really needed to just stop driving around so much and setting the tent up and taking it down every day and just relax. Since the sun was shining so brilliantly, and it was so peacefully quiet except for the many birdsongs, we had no trouble finding a spot on the deck and settling in. We started concentrating on soaking up the sun and finishing the latest books we have been reading. Neither one of us was very good at sitting still and not doing much but this trip has really worn us down and loosened us up overall and now we are so happy to just sit and do next to nothing. Having said that, there are many opportunities for hikes in this region and Niels has spent a few afternoons exploring parts of the Queen Charlotte track and taking pictures on the way while I have been spoiled with a well equipped kitchen and using it to full advantage.

After a few days, we decided to mix up our regimen a bit and drive into the Marlborough wine region to pay a visit to some wineries. Having received some recommendations on which ones to hit, we stopped in and had tastings at four of them and returned late in the day with quite a bounty. It has been very warm, in the 80's, which makes sipping a dry Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc absolutely fitting. Lately, I have had some more luck with fishing and caught a snapper and kowhai, and Niels caught a blue cod so we could pair the wine with the food. Oh, this is the life!

What started out to be a few days turned into a week in the Marlborough Sounds. We're off soon but hope to try our hand at more fishing before we head down the East coast and into the Southern Alps. For now, it's back to enjoying the sun and sounds of silence...plus the birds.

DAY 265 A Great Walk

niels_and_amy — Wed, 14 Nov 2007 20:15:00 GMT

To me, the greatest attraction of New Zealand lies in its unrivalled nature and wildlife. The best way to experience it must be by walking the many fine trails that crisscross the country. According to our documentation, one of the best (if not the best) one-day hikes on the North Island is the Tongariro Crossing in the Tongariro National Park. Measuring 18.5 km (11.5 mi) in length and including an elevation gain of more than 750 m (2500 ft), it took me a bit of effort to convince my sweet wife to join me. But Amy was a great sport so we drove the distance on windy narrow mountain roads to get to the park.

After spending a cold, clear night within sight of the volcanic mountain peaks, we had to rise early to catch a shuttle bus to the trailhead – it’s a one-way hike and car break-ins are a common occurrence at the trailhead parking lots, or so they say… Honestly, I can’t believe no-one has thought of taking up a position of parking attendant charging folks a few bucks to look after their car, coupled with a shuttle bus service to take people back from the end of the track to their cars. No, instead, operators running commercialized shuttle services round up their slavish customers from the backpacker accommodations in the area and line their pockets with the grossly overpriced fares for the simple service they provide using retired busses from China. They pick you up from your accommodation if it is close enough, drop you off at the trailhead and pick you up at the other end eight hours later – and you better not be late, because they actually have the audacity to threaten to leave you behind at the other end, should you not make it there on time! And the cost for all of this? $25 New Zealand dollars per person! And if that’s not enough, they actually try to charge you more than the widely known fare when it’s time to pay, saying that it has increased to NZ$35. How very, very disappointing indeed.

Anyhow, by the time we were on our way, the morning fog had lifted, much to the relief of the 100 or so people (!) that set out on the walk that day. Starting off at 1100 meters (3667 ft) above the sea, the temperature wasn’t exactly balmy, but a brisk pace kept us warm. An hour into the walk the first major climb of the trek presented itself, up to the saddle between two volcanic peaks. Half an hour later at the top of the saddle, we were actually hot – not quite as hot as in the South Pacific islands, but pretty hot nevertheless. We paused just long enough to knock back a natural protein pack (an egg) and stole some steps on many of our fellow hikers who were in need of more rest. From the saddle, the trail took us across a crater floor where thick patches of fog still lingered near the ground – an eerie effect. By the time we were across the plain, the sun had almost burned off the fog. After we climbed up to the rim, it had all evaporated and we were rewarded with a clear view of the whole crater and many hikers making their way across it, like small ants on cracked earth.

At the exposed ridge on the edge of the crater, the wind was blowing hard and despite the many layers of clothes, it was brutally cold. As Amy sought shelter from the arctic winds, I managed to keep my fingers functioning just long enough to capture the superb view of the crater and the looming peak of Mt. Doom (from Lord of the Rings fame) poking through a layer of clouds (see photo).

Bundled up as much as possible (and thankful for still having our reef gloves for diving and snorkeling the South Pacific Seas), we climbed another 100 meters (333 ft) along a narrow ridge and past the otherworldly red crater (see photo – and no, I did not ask those people to go over there and pose for the photo). At the top of the hike at an altitude of 1886 m (6287 ft), the views opened up completely and with the help of the strong wind blowing away the last clouds, the views were incredible. Across the mountain in front of us shimmered the cobalt surface of Blue Lake and right below us the rocky trail descended towards the three brightly colored Emerald Lakes. Perhaps there are after all locations where pictures cannot do the place justice…

From the lakes the trail descended and kept going down, dropping more than 1000 knee-wrecking meters (3333 ft), winding first through fields of windblown golden tussock grass, then through native forest, to end at last at the car park. Fortunately, we made it there with ample time to spare. And the travel guide was right for a change: The Tongariro Crossing is a fantastic walk and a great day out!

DAY 250 Northland at the South End

niels_and_amy — Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:58:00 GMT

For the last two weeks we have been exploring the far North of New Zealand, our most Southern destination on this journey. It has been a while since we have last found ourselves at latitudes this far from the equator, where the weather is obviously much more seasonal. The austral spring is in full swing with the fruit trees blossoming, little lambs prancing around and hyper-active birds chattering away.

After equipping ourselves with a cheapo rental car (a seasoned Nissan Sunny), a tent and another few essential camping items, we started raking up kilometers driving north. Last time we were in New Zealand we excluded the Northland with the exception of dropping in for a day of diving at the Poor Knights Islands. We figured we would do it justice this time and take our time around the far North. The region has turned out to be very much worth our time and has taken us a bit by surprise – perhaps we should have read up a bit more before setting out, but then again, how boringly predictable would that make it?

First stop after hectic Auckland was the historic, quaint town of Russell in the Bay of Islands. In the summer the place is a Mecca for New Zealand and foreign tourists alike, but we found it pleasantly quiet and charming. Staying at the local holiday park, we decided to put the new tent through its paces right away – it held up a lot better against the brutal cold nights than we did…
We did enjoy deserted trails along the craggy Eastern coastline, scenic drives on narrow winding roads and a late afternoon of shell seeking on expansive and inappropriately named Bland Bay. A borrowed blanket meant we did not have to thaw out our limbs in the morning which does indeed make for an overall much more pleasant start to one’s day.

After taking a few days out of life on the road to do some WWOOFing, we set out for Cape Reinga, the very tip of the North Island which is home to some remarkable stretches of coastline hosting giant sand dunes, vast beaches and sheer cliffs. We were richly rewarded for the many miles on gravel roads. The desolate beauty of the windswept, golden sand dunes at Te Paki stream and the gorgeous scenery on a hike at Cape Maria Van Diemen were absolutely worth it – and we were fortunate to experience it all under a clear blue sky!

We spent a few days near the Cape before making our way south again. Next on the ad-hoc agenda was one of the few remaining strongholds of the mighty Kauri tree. Up until two hundred years ago, native Kauri forest covered most of northern New Zealand, but extensive logging by European settlers decimated their numbers. The most impressive trees can live as long as 2000 years and grow a trunk with a sizeable girth that hardly tapers off up to the crown, which gives them a massive appearance and dwarfs everything in their vicinity. To see the forest, we were forced to join the ranks of the ‘been-there-done-that’ tourists, but found that the place still held its charm and that with a bit of willingness it was easy enough to get away from the endless stream of campervans and their occupants following a most predictable route and schedule. We spent two nights in a humble cabin at the Department of Conservation’s campsite to truly appreciate the peace and quiet of the forest.

We’re happy to have landed in New Zealand again, happy to have had such a great time up North but already miss the laid-back state of mind under a warm South Pacific sky, at once remembering vividly why we chose to explore the South Pacific islands…

DAY 229 The Last Dots

niels_and_amy — Sat, 13 Oct 2007 12:01:00 GMT

Far North Vanuatu is home to the most remote archipelago in the country and lured us for how far it sits off the beaten track. After the short detour through Australia, we were ready to take the route less traveled once again and get back to basic living. A weekly flight allowed us to make our way to the Torres Islands by small plane. We had few fellow passengers, all locals, and most of the plane was taken up by cargo as this weekly flight is the only real connection the people of the Torres Islands (a cargo ship calls here only twice a year). Most people rely solely on the land and what they can grow - the fare for air cargo, let alone passenger fare, is much too high for most to consider. A week before we arrived, we attempted to contact the accommodation that we intended to stay but on our arrival we were told our message was never received. We were not surprised! The laid back, friendly character of the locals coupled with there being no other tourists, made it no problem for us to be accommodated and we were quickly taken care of.

As we anticipated, the Torres Islands are quite primitive and basic. There is no electricity, cooking is done over a wood fire, and the phone system is currently out of commission (and likely will be for a long while). This made for a perfect place to be stranded and isolated from the world as we know it. The land is teeming with many species of land crabs and the usually rare coconut crabs. (See 'Day 196' for images of these creatures) Shortly after our arrival, we were given a tour of the newly constructed, European Union funded, school building where a celebration to commemorate the new building was taking place. After the tour we called upon to hand out certificates of achievement to school children, congratulate them and shake their hands. We felt quite unworthy but people kept connecting Niels with the EU and their support so somehow he/we became 'important', despite our humility.

Throughout the next week we did the customary village and island 'tours', here in the Torres through jungle and over super sharp, jagged rocks often interrupted by white sand beaches good for swimming. Niels and our host went spear fishing outside the reef in search of dinner and brough back an ample catch (see photo below).

Apart from some places in the Solomon Islands, the Torres Islands remain some of the most 'untouched' islands we have visited. This is probably helped by the absence of large timber trees that would have lured logging companies. After a week we caught the return flight, 5 hours delayed in good South Pacific fashion, and stopped off at the Banks Islands. Along with us came the Torres airstrip lawnmower, that busted during the week, simply thrown across some empty seats. This is a much relied on piece of machinery as it cuts the grass runway and if the grass is not cut, the plane will not land! To make room for more passengers, it was dropped off at our stop in Sola town, on the island of Vanua Lava.

Much disappointment from Sola and around and the extreme expense of motorboat transport (the only real way to see the island's sights) caused us to cut our stay short. Our accommodation was very poor and the hosts were indifferent to us - the place was more a haven for locals to loiter, blast boomboxes at all hours and shout back and forth - Quite a contrast from our stay on Torres! So two days early we went back to the airport and hopped on a plane bound for Port Vila. The broken lawnmower joined us once again on the flight, but only made it to another remote island - where it seems highly unlikely to meet the part it needs to be fixed... We thought about the Torres Islanders who will be waiting anxiously for their mower, but in true form, no one can seem to be bothered to do anything about it.

We have decided to exchange 'the dots' on the map for more substantial landforms and we will shortly make our way to New Zealand. After 8 months in the tropical South Pacific, we are hungry for a bit more diversity and are very much looking forward to meeting up with many Kiwi's that we have met on this trip.

DAY 215 Detour Down Under

niels_and_amy — Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:29:00 GMT

Between the Solomon Islands and Australia lies a vast, deep blue sea that separates two shockingly different worlds. Resulting from an involuntary re-route, we were not quite prepared for so many people and commercial activity. Suddenly swallowed up by the Western world, we initially felt somewhat uneasy but soon adapted to its inherent comforts and structure. When reality struck us again, we decided that we might as well sample the land down under! After so many months in the South Pacific islands, we find that we have trouble dealing with the oppressing crowds and frantic life of the city so we high-tailed it out of Brisbane. We splurged on a flight to Cairns and a rental car which bought us the unimaginable freedom and luxury of our own set of wheels. At the Daintree National Park we followed the crowds through the landscaped jungle, made accessible by raised boardwalks and viewing platforms. Although nice, a far cry from the real rainforests we explored in Melanesia - it's all about one's frame of reference. We were fortuante to see a few Cassowaries - large, colorful birds from ancient times, but didn't spot a single crocodile despite the numerous warning signs. After a few days we made our way further North to Cooktown, a pleasant, small town with a relaxing and friendly atmosphere. In the botanical gardens, we saw our first wild wallabies, relaxed at some lovely bays and we also visited the Captain Cook museum, commemorating the town's legacy of Captain Cook's landing in 1770. Given our short timeframe, we decided to not try to cover a very large area and next made our way to the Atherton Tablelands. Although pretty, it is in our opinion an overly commercialized area, consisting of manicured jungle walks and strings of waterfalls. We quite liked the quaint town of Yungaburra where we actually spotted the elusive platypus in the wild and a carpet python with graphic markings that Niels literally almost stumbled over (see photo). It is our impression that to find true adventure, one would need to explore the outback. However, that would require a sturdy 4x4, mechanical skills, lots of time and planning and heaps of provisions (especially fuel, water, and spare parts)! As we didn't have the luxury of time or any of the aforementioned, we decided to just try to get a taste for the outback and set out along gravel roads to the small settlement (population 250) of Chillagoe. A place without many attractions per se, but with its roots firmly in the Australian outback. We visited a cave and defunct smelter, ate buffet style at the roadhouse/truckstop and spent the night in a room above the one local pub. The next day we had to leave the red dust behind and make our way back to the heavily trodden tourist trail, navigating between more kangaroo roadkill and busloads of package tourists. If all goes as planned (fingers crossed), we will head back to Vanuatu tonight where we intend to explore that country's remote Northern archipelagoes, which most certainly will be a place of a different nature.

DAY 188 Bliss at 80 South

niels_and_amy — Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:22:00 GMT

Water laps against the posts of our overwater leaf house as I sway in the hammock to create air movement as it is hotter here, 8 degrees South of the equator, than anyplace else we have been. Maybe it is the hammock's perfect fit, or the view out over the vast, placid lagoon, or the peaceful, near silence that is reason for the state of bliss we are in despite the incredible heat.

Five days after arriving in Honiara, and after the all too common dilemmas we encounter in the South Pacific, (full domestic flights, transportation delays and cancellations, lack of reliable information, etc...) we made it by boat through the deep blue, rolling open ocean onto calm blue green waters dotted with islands. Here we caught the first glimpse of the leaf house, built of all local materials, jutting out over the lagoon. Wow.

Almost a week has gone by now as I write this thinking about the days that have wiled away and I really want to stay a bit longer. Niels and I have finally started to get the hang of paddling together in a tipsy, leaky dugout canoe that requires strength to paddle as well as near-constant bailing and there is far too much to see! Right now, for instance, I can see a small shark just 2 feet out from where the veranda is and schools of fish dart and jump a little further out while at least twenty butterflies flutter around a branch nearby. I am still hoping to get a second look at a Monitor lizard that I saw on our first day here. I was so startled by the sheer size (4' in length) that I breathlessly called to Niels to come and see. Not even remotely expecting such a creature made this quite a sight!

Perhaps we'll spend our last two days here just lounging on the veranda spotting the hornbills, parrots and cockatoos that fly from tree to tree in the jungle canopy that surrounds the lodge, but it would be so nice if we can snorkel again as we did a few days ago. Our host and another local man with a motor boat took Niels and me out on the lagoon stopping at small islands, whenever requested, and a reef passage to snorkel. As soon as I got in the water, the underwater world that could be seen from the boat through the clear water, burst into vibrant color. Corals and anemones clung to the sheer wall just below the surface - some as bright as neon - while schools of small and medium sized fish swam about. Perfect "Nemo's" hung out in their swaying anemones while a green sea turtle swam by headed for deeper water. Niels briefly gave chase. The water was so warm that we could have hung out for several hours.

Well, however we spend the next few days in and around Marovo lagoon will easily be added to some of our favorite memories and eventhough we have decided to move on to more adventure, we may very well be back someday.

DAY 177 "Tumas Cloud"

niels_and_amy — Fri, 7 Sep 2007 11:06:00 GMT

On our last two days on Ambrym island, I decide to take on the challenge of walking cross-island to climb one of the island's dark, brooding volcanoes. It is said to be a hard, long hike requiring an overnight stay at the base of the mountain. Amy decides to stay in the village, while I set out with a guide to take on Mt. Marum, Ambrym's most active volcano.

When approaching from the North, the trail to the volcanoes winds through lush jungle and coconut groves. It's a pleasant walk, regardless of the constant incline. The sun is out most of the time and my guide and I are making good progress. Suddenly my guide Jonas stops and utters "Wit wit". He has walked into a spiderweb and from what I can make out, this spider bites. The specimen in question is of a decent size, has a hairless brown body and black legs with bright yellow spots. When it has made its way to a branch, we can pass unharmed.

Soon, the trail starts to climb more steeply, winding through thicker jungle dotted with banana trees and the odd banyan tree. Jonas mumbles something along the lines of "wokabout slow" and our pace is reduced to a snail's pace. It's true that he is carrying my big backpack, but it is not nearly as heavy or full as usual and these guys are supposedly used to it. Not so much.
As Jonas does not know more than two words of understandable English and my Bislama/Pidgin is equally bad, I decide to stop asking him questions about the flora and fauna we see opting instead to wonder and make some mental notes to look up a few things later.

Just after 1PM, we arrive at our campsite. Jonas cuts a bunch of leaves from the fern trees all around us and spreads them out on the ground to provide some cushioning for our tent. Then he collapses on the bed of greens and takes a short nap. I just managed to communicate to him that I would like to climb the nearest volcano at around 3PM to see it in both daylight and in the dark. It is rumored that when the ever present clouds on top give way for a few brief moments, a lava lake can be seen down in the crater below.
After Jonas' short nap and some writing for me, we leave camp and start to walk towards Mt. Marum. Slowly again - Jonas is not a fast walker, with or without pack. The approach used by Jonas turns out to be anything but a straight shot. We make a big sideways move across Marum's ash plain of loose gravel-sized dark rock interrupted only by sparse patches of vegetation. The sun is still out in full force so it is quite toasty on the black grounds. The volcano looms large whenever the brush allows a line of sight. Unfortunately, the top of Mt. Marum is getting rather more cloudy and periodically dissapears completely, shrouded in a thick gray layer of water vapor.

After about an hour of walking, the landscape starts to change and the expanse of the ash plain turns to a set of ridges fanning out from the mountain. We continue in what looks like a dried up river bed, climbing up large lava formations and hopping rocks in patches of standing water. It turns out that this river bed is the remains of a lava river and the higher we climb, the more difficult it becomes.
Suddenly, Jonas stops - looking confused- and then walks back and forth a few times between the ridges bordering our lava river bed. At a seemingly random spot, he proceeds to scale the grassy ridge on our right and gestures for me to follow. To my surpprise, I find that there actually steps dug out, making the ascent relatively easy. On the top, there's a nice view of the landscape of steep ridges winding and twisitng their way down the mountain. Jonas and I follow our ridge up towards the now clearly audible rumblings of the volcano.
Gradually the grass thins out and the ridge's sides drop away very steeply. Best to not slide down the sharp lava rock here... After a last push up loose sand, we find ourselves at the edge of the crater. Marum's rumblings are now clearly distinguisable as minor explosions followed by sounds of lava sloshing around and against the sides of the vent.
It is an eerie experience, especially since we cannot see more than 50 meters in front of us. "Tumas cloud" as Jonas aptly - for once - puts it. A real shame. After an hour at the top, in howling winds and intermittent pelting rain, I decide that with the clouds continuously rolling in, there's no point in waiting till nightfall as the lava glow in the dark will also most likely be obscured from view. I vow to return in the morning.
What rests, is the arduous way down the mountain and across the ash plain back to camp. And most of that will be by torchlight...
Against all odds, I make it off the mountain with only a few minors scratches and bumps.

The bed of fern leaves, so carefully prepared by Jonas fails to provide much cushioning at all, so I put my self-inflatable mattress to good use again. Jonas, seems perfectly happy with the ferns.
At first light, the clouds are still out in large numbers so I call off our morning ascent. Instead, Jonas and I pack up camp and walk back to the village of Ranvetlam where we started from, in record time.

Perhaps it is more fitting after all that the elusive view of Mt. Marum's lava lake will - like so many things on the dark, strange island - remain a mystery.

DAY 176 A Week on Ambrym Island

niels_and_amy — Fri, 7 Sep 2007 10:58:00 GMT

After spending a few days roaming around Vanuatu's capital, Port vila, and another ten exploring the island of Tanna, we decided to head North and set our sights on Ambrym Island. To many people, the island is a bit mysterious. Its two active volcanoes are often shooting thick ash into the sky and shroud the island in clouds. The interior is made up of dense jungle and apart from a few small settlements in the north, everyone lives near the sea. There are no real roads and ony a few pick-up trucks on the island. The only way to get from village to village is to walk the steep hills or go by small boat or canoe. Many villagers fear black magic posessed by a select few islanders, strengthened in their beliefs by the erratic, destructive behavior of the two mighty volcanoes.

Upon arrival by small plane we took a humble boat to the Northern part of the island. Thick clouds covering the jungle interior rendered the landscape almost monochrome. For two hours we glided through a black sea, under the cover of gray clouds, past black sand beaches only disturbed by the white froth of the waves slapping on their shores. On the way, one of the passengers caught a young yellowfin tuna of which we had a large chunk for dinner that night. Our accommodation proved to be quite basic (again) with only bucket shower and toilet and was unfortunately located somewhat outside the village on a high cliff without any rewarding views. The friendly villagers (down the cliff) on the other hand more than made up for our accommodation's poor location and our host's lack of congeniality.

Soccer is a favorite pasttime of many Ni-Vans (native Vanuatu people) and one morning we accompained the villagers to the far North of the island to attend the Ambrym championship match. In good Vanuatu fashion, the festivities were preceded by too many drawn out speeches by anyone in an even remotely official position and the real match starting many hours later. In order with the villager's great hospitality, we were promptly seated under the makeshift bamboo and tarp canopy with the officials and could enjoy the best views of the frantic game as well as shelter from torrential downpours interrupted by sweltering sunny skies. After a high energy, full length game in the humid and toasty conditions, the team from the North beat their rivals from the West by a score of 1-0.

On another day during our weeklong stay on Ambrym island, we were privied to more of the islander's fine hospitality when we ventured into the Northern interior for an impromptu walking tour of the villages located deep in the jungle. Our guide, Barry, spoke good English so we were able to learn a lot about village culture and customs in these parts. At most places we stopped, we were just as much an attraction to the villagers as they were to us, and without fail, everybody and their brother would come out to see us. It was a day of much rain and many hilly miles but filled with countless interesting encounters, leaving us with many nice memories and a large wood carving.

Ambrym's volcanically and solar heated black sand provides perfect nesting environments for the 'Scrab Dak', the bird better known by its English common name of Megapode. The animal digs down deep into the sand to lay its eggs with are then brooded by the warm sand until the hatchlings crawl out of their eggs and the sand to a life on Ambrym's beaches and amongst its undergrowth. On a trip to a series of hotsprings, a few of the local boys with us dug up three of the Megapode's giant eggs for our enjoyment and to complement next morning's breakfast. Eventhough the eggs were very tasty, we were left with a bad taste in our mouths when we found out a few days later that the eggs were not supposed to be collected this time of year, to ensure that the dwindling population numbers of the Megapodes do not decline any further. We notified the local tourism authority of the unfortunate event in the hope it will not happen again, but we regret not realizing sooner, as we could have prevented the egg snatching :(m Island After spending a few days roaming around Vanuatu's capital, Port vila, and another ten exploring the island of Tanna, we decided to head North and set our sights on Ambrym Island. To many people, the island is a bit mysterious. Its two active volcanoes are often shooting thick ash into the sky and shroud the island in clouds. The interior is made up of dense jungle and apart from a few small settlements in the north, everyone lives near the sea. There are no real roads and ony a few pick-up trucks on the island. The only way to get from village to village is to walk the steep hills or go by small boat or canoe. Many villagers fear black magic posessed by a select few islanders, strengthened in their beliefs by the erratic, destructive behavior of the two mighty volcanoes. Upon arrival by small plane we took a humble boat to the Northern part of the island. Thick clouds covering the jungle interior rendered the landscape almost monochrome. For two hours we glided through a black sea, under the cover of gray clouds, past black sand beaches only disturbed by the white froth of the waves slapping on their shores. On the way, one of the passengers caught a young yellowfin tuna of which we had a large chunk for dinner that night. Our accommodation proved to be quite basic (again) with only bucket shower and toilet and was unfortunately located somewhat outside the village on a high cliff without any rewarding views. The friendly villagers (down the cliff) on the other hand more than made up for our accommodation's poor location and our host's lack of congeniality. Soccer is a favorite pasttime of many Ni-Vans (native Vanuatu people) and one morning we accompained the villagers to the far North of the island to attend the Ambrym championship match. In good Vanuatu fashion, the festivities were preceded by too many drawn out speeches by anyone in an even remotely official position and the real match starting many hours later. In order with the villager's great hospitality, we were promptly seated under the makeshift bamboo and tarp canopy with the officials and could enjoy the best views of the frantic game as well as shelter from torrential downpours interrupted by sweltering sunny skies. After a high energy, full length game in the humid and toasty conditions, the team from the North beat their rivals from the West by a score of 1-0. On another day during our weeklong stay on Ambrym island, we were privied to more of the islander's fine hospitality when we ventured into the Northern interior for an impromptu walking tour of the villages located deep in the jungle. Our guide, Barry, spoke good English so we were able to learn a lot about village culture and customs in these parts. At most places we stopped, we were just as much an attraction to the villagers as they were to us, and without fail, everybody and their brother would come out to see us. It was a day of much rain and many hilly miles but filled with countless interesting encounters, leaving us with many nice memories and a large wood carving. Ambrym's volcanically and solar heated black sand provides perfect nesting environments for the 'Scrab Dak', the bird better known by its English common name of Megapode. The animal digs down deep into the sand to lay its eggs with are then brooded by the warm sand until the hatchlings crawl out of their eggs and the sand to a life on Ambrym's beaches and amongst its undergrowth. On a trip to a series of hotsprings, a few of the local boys with us dug up three of the Megapode's giant eggs for our enjoyment and to complement next morning's breakfast. Eventhough the eggs were very tasty, we were left with a bad taste in our mouths when we found out a few days later that the eggs were not supposed to be collected this time of year, to ensure that the dwindling population numbers of the Megapodes do not decline any further. We notified the local tourism authority of the unfortunate event in the hope it will not happen again, but we regret not realizing sooner, as we could have prevented the egg snatching :(.

DAY 169 Village Life in Vanuatu

niels_and_amy — Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:10:00 GMT

There have been times on our trip that we have wished for comforts, times that were hard, even times that we perhaps rather would have been in the comforts of our apartment and former familiar surroundings. Somehow though, it feels like we have known that those times were a means to an end: a tax - as you will - to pay for the times where you'd wish you could stop time to savor in the moments of true discovery and immersion in local, far flung culture: the real deal. These are the times we have just had on Tanna island in Vanuatu. A truly memorable week has just passed. A week we will fondly remember for a long time.

By chance, we stayed with an extremely welcoming and hospitable family that runs a very lovely guesthouse in the shadow of Tanna's main tourist attraction, active Yasur volcano. Unlike touristy resort accommodation in most parts of Tanna, we were able to completely immerse ourselves in the local culture and join our hosts in their daily life, trot along to Independence Day celebrations, assist in making traditional dishes and just follow them around as they shared with us their amazing island and culture. There have been few times that we have felt this fortunate with our surroundings and hosts as we have for the past week.

Our hosts, actually a family of 4 brothers along with their wives and children, did their best to make sure we were entertained, well fed, and rested. It is such a rarity to come across people who are doing something for the sheer enjoyment of it, not just seeing dollar signs - the family was as interested in us and our way of life as we were in theirs. The children were all shy but curious, and as our stay progressed, they spent more and more time following us around and teaching us how to play their version of marbles (played with roundish seeds from the marble tree).

For a week we lived in a very basic, simple way and even though we had pretty much the same meal every day and a water shortage that made it impossible to bathe for 2 days, the time we spent with the family and exploring Tanna Island could very well become the highlight of our travel year.

DAY 164 One Vanuatu Volcano

niels_and_amy — Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:08:00 GMT

There are many active volcanoes in the world but only a few erupt as regular and consistent as Yasur volcano on Tanna island, Vanuatu. From the moment we arrived in Eastern Tanna, we had heard the grumbling of the old man - which is what Yasur freely translates to. A sound very much like thunder, sometimes accompanied by minor tremors. So it was with roaring anticipation (pun intended ;-) that we set out to climb the mountain leaving a few hours before sunset to see it both in daylight and at night.

As the volcano was at a safe level, we could walk all the way up to the crater rim and take a prime seat on the edge in the black ash/sand to watch nature's fireworks. And Yasur did not disapoint! The grumblings we had heard on the ground were more like explosions up at the top. The activity level teetered between mere bubbling lava - not visible, but audible - and massive explosions. There would be a series of eruptions where glowing rocks were thrown to perhaps 50 meters/yards above the vent and then the old man would take a rest, which we at first mistook for a sign that the show was over. Not so much. He would then really let it rip with a huge explosion hurdling thousands of molten rocks sky high, some going much higher than the crater rim we were sitting on.

It was an exciting yet humbling experience to be so close to nature's fury. Very different from the slow lava flows we had seen in Hawaii - but very much like Stromboli volcano in the Mediterranean Sea. In fact, Yasur was so exciting that I could not resist climbing him again a few days later - our guesthouse was so close with only an hour walk to the top.

About an equal distance from our guesthouse, but on level ground, one of the destructive effects of Yasur's fireworks could be clearly seen: a large ash plain that stretches on for miles. Formerly the area was a freshwater lake, but a cyclone caused the lake to drain a few years ago leaving behind a large flat expanse laden with volcanic ash. It was an impressive experience to walk across the barren ash plain and be surrounded by black sand and ash almost as far as you could see. Almost perfectly conical Yasur rising out of the black, topped by billowing white clouds against a stark blue afternoon sky, was truly an amazing sight.

DAY 153 Afloat in Vava'u

niels_and_amy — Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:43:00 GMT

Most people would probably agree that being the captain of your own boat is the best way to see Vava'u. For us however, that meant going about on a simple, borrowed, plastic kayak complete with disfunctional paddle. Regardless, the natural beauty of the region more than compensates for the minor inconveniences. For the last week, we have based ourselves on a Southern stretch of beach on Utungake Island in Vava'u and explored the sparkling water and offshore islets.

Our daily strugges are comprised of deciding when to go for a paddle, what provisions to go to town for, and travel planning and documenting. This is the life and we keep trying to take everything in to the fullest while we can, far away from all the chaotic hustle and bustle of the developed world.

For the first time in our trip, we have crossed paths with fellow travellers who are also on a South Pacific, extended itinerary. It is interesting and entertaining to share and truly understand each others travel stories. We have even met several of the same quirky people along our routes!

Apologies for the delay in updating the website and responding to messages sent through this site. During our time in Tonga, we were unable to access our webiste for some strange reason (probably the rumored censoring by the Tongan government - we do not know with what sites we share our server) which made updating too difficult.

More than 5 months in, we are still thoroughly enjoying ourselves, most of the time. We have managed to not run out of money yet but the hardest daily struggle is staying on budget. The challenge of being together nearly 24/7 is still being met and we are still happily married - though at times, both in desperate need of some space :). We have learned to be able to mentally separate ourselves even if physically constrained in a small hut of woven palm fronds.

The vistas of lush vegetation, palm trees, and all shades of blue and green seas continue to amaze us. Sun and heat have become a daily need and we have clearly adapted to the climate as when the temperature drops to around 25C/75F, we are shivering while donning our long sleeved shirts and pants! Time passes, not too fast nor too slow, strangely it feels like it is just right. Perhaps that is because we are able to take so much time at the destinations we visit. Occasionally we have fleeting thoughts of what we will do and where we will settle when we end our time in the South Pacific but we do not linger on that as we are focused on being in the here and now and we are are just plain happy.

We are now back in Fiji after a day of travelling (both sick) from Vava'u - not recommended. Today we spent all day at the airport figuring out flights and iteneraries (or in other words: how can we get where we want to go for the least amount of money). Not wasting any time, we are flying on to Vanuatu tomorrow where we will spend a few weeks before making a sidestep to the Solomon Islands before spending some more time in Vanuatu. Stay tuned - There should be some more good pictures to be had there ;-)

DAY 142 Now THAT'S Rustic

niels_and_amy — Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:40:00 GMT

We got a little more than we bargained for when we wished for true adventure, authentic cultural experiences, and undeveloped tourism to come our way during our stay in Tonga. Tucked away on the most Western side of the Vava'u group of islands is a little known island called Hunga. Through someone we previously met in Neiafu, we were able to arrange to stay with a family living in the one village on Hunga. (Population 300) The only transportation method for us there was by a smallish boat owned by the village and dramatically underpowered by an outboard of what could not have been more than 25 horsepower. This boat appeared to be full. We should have realilzed by now that full as we know it is about half-full in these parts. People were literally piled on every square inch of flat space: on deck, on the roof, on the sides, and under the small build-up. After some shuffling around, space was made for us near the stern and we braced ourselves for the ride. Fortunately, the sea was remarkably calm. After almost two hours at full throttle we did eventually arrive at Hunga Island. From the jetty, we scrambled up the hill on a muddy track. (There are no roads or cars on the island) That is when we first were confronted with... the outhouse. So, we went on many bush walks during our stay on Hunga Island.

The village was very primitive and the house we stayed in was certainly no exception. There it stood, looking almost as unsightly as the outhouse and in an equal state of filth and disrepair. The family living in the house seemed to lack any real posessions, leave a few tattered mats and shabby dishes. Our room, seemingly the nicest in the house, contained little more than an old, dilapitated, knob-less dresser and a thin, foam mattress but sported sweeping, unobstructed views of the yard - complete with starving horse and... the outhouse.

We filled our four days on Hunga island going on bush walks, a boat 'tour', playing soccer, and drinking kava. The bush walks would not only provide relief but also proved quite informative and entertaining. We were always accompanied by eager, self-appointed guides (young, local village boys) who had an uncanning ability to get lost but just as easily could forge a new trail, ushering us along while hacking down the undergrowth. It was during these walks that we learned Tongan words for everything we saw and taught in return the English words. These walks became a regular affair, similar to having breakfast, lunch and dinner. Unlike the walks, our meals were a whole lot less adventurous. On many occassions the meal consisted of cookies and cabin crackers accompanied by super sweet tea made with strands of grass and lots of sugar. Occassionally, we could 'indulge' in a starch laden platter of the typical Tongan diet of huge root plants that vary little from one to the other in taste and texture. These roots are definitely an acquired taste!

The highlight of our visit to Hunga was hiring a local guy with a small, wooden boat to take us to a petite, uninhabited island about half an hour away. We explored the island on foot, making our way through the thick vegetation to see expansive views and find isolated beaches. After seeing all the island had to offer, we settled on the nicest beach ready for a swim and some rest. Unfortunately, one of the boys who was with us got horribly stung by what later turned out to be a box jellyfish. He ran out of the water in excruciating pain, which to the other Tongans with us seemed nothing but hillarious. From what we have seen, many rural Tongans - no matter what age - remain child-like, not seeming to outgrow the mental state of, say, a 12 year old. Our immediate suggestion of dousing the sting with urine (the folk remedy against jelly stings) was laughed away (neither of us could go and even so, it would have been completely faux-pas for either of us to have done it) so the poor kid remained in pain. We all loaded into the boat and made for the village. At one point, when the boat driver decided he needed a smoke, the sting victim, appaulingly, had to fetch the cigarette for him! A frustrating ending to an otherwise wonderful day. After 4 hours, the pain subsided for the boy that was stung but he was sporting huge welts.

When the day came around for us to leave, our host tried to trick us into staying another one or two nights by saying the early morning boat had already left. Unfortunately for him, we have been on the road long enough to smell a scam and we made a run for the boat jetty immediately. We were half way back to Neiafu before he could realize we didn't fall for his feeble ploy.

Overall, we had a memorable, lovely time on Hunga and we were fortunate to see and experience first hand, true Tongan culture. However, it remains difficult for us to understand how many villagers are perfectly content filling their days doing absolutely nothing else than sleeping and eating, lacking ambition and the ability to think beyond a few days into the future.

DAY 134 Making Bubbles in Tonga

niels_and_amy — Mon, 2 Jul 2007 09:05:00 GMT

Last Thursday we touched down in the Kingdom of Tonga. Through a string of good fortune, things fell into place: a much needed, long awaited package was actually waiting for us at the post office in Tongatapu and at the airport we were able to walk up, buy a ticket, and fly out to the islands of Vava'u, North of Tongatapu, the same day! After arriving in Neiafu (Tonga's second largest city with a population of 5650) our good fortune continued as we stumbled upon accommodation that is basically a self contained apartment attached to a house. We are so happy to have a bit of space again, cooking facilities, and the luxury of a warm, indoor shower. The extremely friendly and helpful Austrian owner that moved here some 25 years ago (and married a local) is at our beck and call making sure we are taken care of and he is always at the ready to help arrange things for us.

In contrast to our last destination, the people are very friendly and approachable. We plan to spend a fair amount of time in the islands of Vava'u - hopefully some of it within the traditional villages.

As we write this we are still exhilarated from an afternoon of diving. We finally are able to allow ourselves to spend the money and fully take in the underwater world that we have been missing out on. We dove yesterday and today and it was fantastic. The coral is healthy and abundant and the sea life is thriving. Today we saw loads of sharks. We decended into a cavern while the dive master used a torch to highlight 5 white-tip reef sharks circling with a school of fish. We hung out quite close for a few minutes and then swam out of the cavern through a tunnel. Shortly thereafter - when we were swimming along a wall - 4 sizeable (approx. 6 foot in length) gray reef sharks appeared out of the deep blue below us. It was amazing. We have seen things here that we have not seen elsewhere - the most fascinating was the Electric Fire clam, a rather large, orange shell with bright orange tentacles and a fluorescent blue, lightning like light shimmering around its mouth. Needless to say, we will be splurging on a few more dives :).

DAY 122 Kickin' Back

niels_and_amy — Mon, 2 Jul 2007 08:52:00 GMT

Days have passed without much ado during our stay back in Samoa. We have spent much of our time on quintessential tropical beaches allowing us to take in even more sun :). It has been relaxing and we have had lovely weather, some spectacular thunderstorms at night, and some good star-watching opportunities.

After a few days in Apia, we split our time back between two 'resorts' (very basic, not flash beach fales that have communal facilities and a restaurant). The first one was on the Southwest coast of Upolu where we stayed in a traditional fale lit by kerosene lantern. It was rustic and had lots of mosquitos but also a wooden swing over the lagoon that was just (picture) perfect. After a few days there we headed for the Southeast coast and had an even better time. For a fair price, we had a fale right on the beach where we slept with the breeze blowing through and the surf lulling us to sleep. As relaxing and lovely as it has been, we are very much ready to move on to Tonga where we hope to find a home for our more adventurous spirits. If Tonga does not deliver, we will fast-track out of there back to Fiji.

DAY 108 The Armpit of the South Pacific?

niels_and_amy — Tue, 5 Jun 2007 12:11:00 GMT

Here we sit in Pago Pago, American Samoa - a place where no one should choose to linger. The road around the island is clogged with oversized pick-up trucks and SUV's and dotted throughout are grease pit restaurants and cafe's spewing out "American food" - mostly fried and very unhealthy. There really isn't much to see and do to entice a visitor. A lot of rubbish lies alongside the road and piled up on the coastline. Pago Pago harbour hosts commercial fishing boats that supply the huge Starkist tuna cannery, regular container ships and a few sailing yachts that sit in the green, murky water and are mostly in a sad state of disrepair. Some have simply sunk and can be easily spotted by their masts that stick out above the surface.

A string of mishaps out of our control have left us stranded here. We knew Tutuila, the main island in American Samoa, was not a place we wanted to spend time in, but we needed to head here enroute to islands 100km to the East, called Ofu and Olosega. Once we got here, all of our planning rendered useless and we found out that due to changed schedules, we would have to stay in American Samoa much longer than intended if we headed to Ofu, unless we were to book a one-way plane ticket back to Apia, Samoa which turned out to be ridiculously overpriced. So, after much discussion and number crunching (it is really difficult to stay on budget here...), we have decided to cut our losses and change course. We'll have to endure the rough ferry ride across to Samoa once again which we are not looking forward to: The way here was an extremely rough, 8 hour ride, much worse than the small cargo ship we took in French Polynesia. Thank goodness for sea-sickness medication - a triple dose was needed to get us through.

On one of our days here in Pago Pago, we hopped on a bus to get out of the rain and the driver immediately offered his bus as a 'tour bus' we could hire to go around the island. In desperate need of something to do and a way to see the place, we jumped at the offer. We were quite lucky to come across the friendly bus driver and ended up getting a custom tour at our leisure, for a fair price. Needless to say, this has been the highlight thus far and all but one of the pictures included with this post are from our 'tour'.

Even though coming to American Samoa has turned out to be a waste of time, the people we have come across here have all been friendly and helpful and we have been able to stock up on some things and catch up on sleep. We are able to use the library here to be online and research our next destination: Tonga. Wednesday we will take the Lady Naomi ferry back to Apia, Samoa where we will have to wait out another week before we can fly on to Tonga where we hope to discover some more -much needed- positive adventure!

DAY 100 A Bright Spot

niels_and_amy — Wed, 30 May 2007 09:38:00 GMT

After crossing paths with the fellow travellers we met on Savaii, who we will now refer to as friends, we headed back to Upolu and on to Lalomanu. It was a very long travel day (taxi, ferry, taxi, taxi) made bearable by sharing the experience (and taxi fares) with them :). We left the resort on Savaii around 10am and arrived in Lalomanu just before dinner was served. Hungry, dead tired, and still sad, we stopped in at Taufua Beach Fales (definitely deserving of a mention!) where we were given our choice of fale and ushered to the communal dining area. Jovial conversation echoed through the room where we found a seat and indulged in some much needed cold beer. The food arrived shorty and just kept coming. As we sat back and took in the food, conversation, and surroundings, we both let out a huge sigh. What a welcome relief! What was intended to be a 2 night stay turned into 7 during which we met the greatest number of well travelled, educated people who had good advice, interesting stories and laughs to share.

During our time in Lalomanu we had lovely weather that was perfect for lounging a bit on the beach and snorkeling (which was great just off of the beach and Niels came across and got a good look at a stonefish - the most venomous fish out there). The owner of the resort took us on a tour of some sights that included the Sogo'aga Waterfall, Togitogiga Waterfall, and the To Sua sea trench. We had a really great time and were well taken care of. So thank you Tai (the owner of the highly recommendable Taufua Beach fales) and thank you to all the travellers we met there who made our stay so great: Craig and Alena, David, Harriett, Will and Alona, Julian and Jacquotte, Doug and Odette, Wim and Riet, Vienna, and Peter!