2explore.net We are Niels and Amy van Dongen and this is our journey. Our home site is http://www.2explore.net. On February 16, 2007 we will leave behind the comforts of our home in Seattle to travel through the South Pacific. On this site you can follow along with us, read about our experiences and view some of the photos we have taken en route. Our insatiable urge to explore, sparked the idea for this adventure. In October of 2005, we had a taste of the South Pacific on a 3-week trip to the Cook Islands and have ever since wanted to go back to immerse ourselves in the South Pacific way of life and record our experiences. With many ecosystems at risk from pollution, global warming and climate change, this is now especially critical. We aim to capture the true character of the idyllic South Pacific through photographs and words in a way that makes any observer of our work feel a connection to this special place and in turn, join us in making simple choices in everyday life that can have positive, lasting effects on the world around us. For a year we will be living as modern nomads – traveling only with what we can carry in our packs, living amongst the locals on the islands we visit, spending time sharing stories and experiences and taking in the captivating underwater world on the occasional dive. We hope to help others along the way and keep a vivid record of this adventure to share with you, and keep at the forefront of our memory. Follow along with us and learn about far away places of natural beauty and rich cultures. Experience with us the big world we call home.

Far North Vanuatu is home to the most remote archipelago in the country and lured us for how far it sits off the beaten track. After the short detour through Australia, we were ready to take the route less traveled once again and get back to basic living. A weekly flight allowed us to make our way to the Torres Islands by small plane. We had few fellow passengers, all locals, and most of the plane was taken up by cargo as this weekly flight is the only real connection the people of the Torres Islands (a cargo ship calls here only twice a year). Most people rely solely on the land and what they can grow - the fare for air cargo, let alone passenger fare, is much too high for most to consider. A week before we arrived, we attempted to contact the accommodation that we intended to stay but on our arrival we were told our message was never received. We were not surprised! The laid back, friendly character of the locals coupled with there being no other tourists, made it no problem for us to be accommodated and we were quickly taken care of.

As we anticipated, the Torres Islands are quite primitive and basic. There is no electricity, cooking is done over a wood fire, and the phone system is currently out of commission (and likely will be for a long while). This made for a perfect place to be stranded and isolated from the world as we know it. The land is teeming with many species of land crabs and the usually rare coconut crabs. (See 'Day 196' for images of these creatures) Shortly after our arrival, we were given a tour of the newly constructed, European Union funded, school building where a celebration to commemorate the new building was taking place. After the tour we called upon to hand out certificates of achievement to school children, congratulate them and shake their hands. We felt quite unworthy but people kept connecting Niels with the EU and their support so somehow he/we became 'important', despite our humility.

Throughout the next week we did the customary village and island 'tours', here in the Torres through jungle and over super sharp, jagged rocks often interrupted by white sand beaches good for swimming. Niels and our host went spear fishing outside the reef in search of dinner and brough back an ample catch (see photo below).

Apart from some places in the Solomon Islands, the Torres Islands remain some of the most 'untouched' islands we have visited. This is probably helped by the absence of large timber trees that would have lured logging companies. After a week we caught the return flight, 5 hours delayed in good South Pacific fashion, and stopped off at the Banks Islands. Along with us came the Torres airstrip lawnmower, that busted during the week, simply thrown across some empty seats. This is a much relied on piece of machinery as it cuts the grass runway and if the grass is not cut, the plane will not land! To make room for more passengers, it was dropped off at our stop in Sola town, on the island of Vanua Lava.

Much disappointment from Sola and around and the extreme expense of motorboat transport (the only real way to see the island's sights) caused us to cut our stay short. Our accommodation was very poor and the hosts were indifferent to us - the place was more a haven for locals to loiter, blast boomboxes at all hours and shout back and forth - Quite a contrast from our stay on Torres! So two days early we went back to the airport and hopped on a plane bound for Port Vila. The broken lawnmower joined us once again on the flight, but only made it to another remote island - where it seems highly unlikely to meet the part it needs to be fixed... We thought about the Torres Islanders who will be waiting anxiously for their mower, but in true form, no one can seem to be bothered to do anything about it.

We have decided to exchange 'the dots' on the map for more substantial landforms and we will shortly make our way to New Zealand. After 8 months in the tropical South Pacific, we are hungry for a bit more diversity and are very much looking forward to meeting up with many Kiwi's that we have met on this trip.