THe first shot missed me for a table...I kept still on my chair, but my concerns were growing as I saw ppl moving around near me.
As expected, the shots didn't stop and the third one came straight to me. No way I could dodge it! As my friend Ivan Berzin, vulgo Botelho, warned me: "Don't say no to vodka shots, you might start a fight!"
And so I didn't. Shots of vodka kept on coming; everybody wanted to have a shot w/ me. It was a familiy party. It was a party for Muzaffar, a little boy who was about to get his circumcision done...and they celebrate it w/ a big party. I got invited to join the party, but I had to introduce myself on the mic to everybody...after the shots. The band started playing some spanish song and they asked me to dance...I did...damn shots were working quite well.
After the party, I went to sleep at the refugee area. An area built by ASEAn bank and Azerbaijan governament to the people whi were displaced during and after the Armenia invasion - 20% of Azerbaijan territory was overtaken by Armenia army.Some say that it was actually the Russian army who did it once they were helping Armenia duting the war.
Houses, community center, playground, and other necessities were built to accomodate thousands of refugees. Evrything looks pretty nice, but like they say: "It's not home!"
Made some great friends. Murad Muradov took me to his uncle's house where I spend the night. He made sure I had everything I needed and let me w/ Asim, Bahruz, and Rufat. In the mornign we had breakfast togheter and a great chat about Azerbaijan's history.
Letf to Ganja city. Got there and found a Orthodox church; asked for a place to sleep, they gave me: a room, dinner, breakfast, wine, fruits, and great company. Padre Andre was very kind, and Maria his wife a great cook. Also met his sister, Iliana and their children. Spent 2 nights in Ganja, got my bike fixed and headed to Kazax border.
Got to the border and was refused visa - I had to go back to Baku (500km) to get a visa. However, at the Georgian embassy in Baku, I read a note saying I could get the visa at the border, so I went to the border. Officials at the Azerbaijan side were trying to help me, but the Georgian officers were insiting on not giving me the visa. Then, a soldier from Azerbaijan side came with news: "They will give you the visa, but you must give them US$300."
CORRUPTION, clear case of corruption. I refused, set camp near the border, and called the Margo in Baku to contact the Georgian embassy. Next morning, Margo told me that the embassor had confirmed what I knew - visa at the border, but only US$25. Happy and excited, I headed to the border, spoke w/ the officers (Azerba's), they went to Georiga's custom - NO, no visa for Brasil was what they said. I insisted, but not a chance. I called my friends at the BR embassy in Pakistan, hoping they would tell me my options of whom to contact.
Back at the border, I was again refused visa. Not a chance; I exchanged my money back into AZ's currency and got on my way to Baku. I had decided to go up to Russia or...whatever.
"Come back! Come back" said an officer inside the Georgia Border partol vehicle. I kept on riding and waved him away. He stopped the car in front of my bike and said: "Visa OK!"
There, I realized that someone must have called them and ordered them to give me. Well, I was frustated and angry, so it was my time to be dufficult. Rode around the vehicle and told them: "Go away, I'm going Russia!" They insisted and asked me to go back. I stopped and made them talk a little more; then, I went back. Got my visa and heard Officer Michell say:
"You thanks to me for visa!"...mmm...Best thing to do, keep my mouth shut and get my visa. No I didn't! I looked at him and said:
Thanks to whom called you, not to you. Your border is corrupted! (AZ's officer told me that somebody from their embassy had called givin' them hell about causing problems w/ a Brazillian cyclist - me)
Cross to Georgia. For the first time, I cross a country with a down feeling. Usually, I would cross a border and do the first 50km quite fast, excited about being in a different country - not this time. I was angry and frustated for spending 2 days at the border, and had a bad feeling about Georgia. Would everybody be like this? It was my frist Christian soil since the start...would it be a deception?
Well; Georgians would have to be very nice to get that feeling away from my mind.
wwoooww...killing a sheep right here...and BBQ it for me...Damn Georgians, 20km and they already got even.
To be continued
