A Gem in the Former GDR
GERMANY | Monday, 25 May 2009 | Views [649]
I'm writing this as we rumble along the 30 minute stretch inbetween
Erfurt and Weimar. Only 15 miles seperate the two cities so we've
chosen to travel this leg of the journey by bus. A last minute change
of plans caused us to reschedule our departure time which turned out
would mean that the owner himself of the bus company would come to pick
us up and escort us to Weimar. He was more than delighted to share with
us info about his beloved hometown of Weimar. Unfortunately, it was all
in German but thanks to his insider info (and our German prof's
translation), we learned that next week our very own president Obama
will be visiting Weimar! It turns out Obama's great uncle was involved
in the liberation of Buchenwald, a nearby concentration camp which
we'll be visiting ourselves on Thursday.
We arrived in Erfurt on Wednesday, May 20th and were finally united
with our German professor. The change in teaching style and command of
the language was just the pick me up our travel weary group was in need
of. After a restful 12 days in Weinheim, accompanied by a weekend break
from my "work duties" (which I spend visiting a best friend in
Frankfurt), I was feling ready to once again hit the ground running.
Our first day in Erfurt I took advantage of our free afternoon to get
out and explore the city center. Most of the city was destroyed during
WWII, but has been completely rebuilt in historical fashion. A fairly
small city of the former GDR (East Germany), Erfurt hosts its fair
share of adorable, spacious plazas, along with a few cathedrals,
churches and monuments. My favorite destination of all was the
Fischmarkt where I could lounge on a couch, sip a cappucino and people
watch to my heart's content. If you ever visit Erfurt this is the must
see part of the city.
On Thursday we visited an Augustinian Monastery where Martin Luther had
once lived. I believe it was here that Luther first began to realize
that what he had learned in church did not match up with what he was
discovering in his own reading of the Bible. Now The Augustinerkloster
serves as a conference center or home to travelers in need of a
spiritual retreat of sorts. While we were visiting the Monastery a
thunderstrom erupted and we learned that one of Luther's motivations
for seeking the monastic life was because he had narrowly escapted
being struck by lightning himself. Thankfully we too made it out of
harm's way and took refuge in an Italian cafe to wait out the storm.
On Thursday our group took a day trip to Eisenach, home of the Wartberg
Castle and birthplace of Johann Sebastian Bach. We learned a great deal
about a former queen of the castle, Elisabeth, who had been betrothed
at age 4, married by 14 and dead by 24. During her short life she was
able to establish charities and tend to the poor (despite her husband's
disapproval), earning herself the title of "St. Elisabeth." After
soaking up a great deal of history regarding this former
fortress/palace we headed to the Bach Haus. Here we learned about the
history and influence of Bach's music and explored an interactive
exhibit--a science center of sorts for Bach's music. I could have spent
all afternoon relaxing in the egg shaped chair dangling from the
ceiling, letting Bach's music ripple out of the headphones and down to
my fingertips, but we had a mini concert to attend downstairs.
Unfortunately, I do not have enough knowledge regarding music to
adequately articulate and describe the performance we witnessed, but I
can tell you that the sounds brought tears to my eyes and temporarily
melted my heart. Our German prof is constantly talking about earthly
experiences that are glimpses or echos of paradise. The Bach Haus was
certainly one of these glimpses.
Friday night we made our way to the sole laundromat across town. I've
come to the conclusion that Germans are not fans of washing their
clothes (which is something my High School German teacher always used
to say as well). It had been an embarassingly long amount of time since
our clothes had received a legitimate washing and the makeshift sink
washing just wasn't cutting it anymore. We loaded up our bags, put on
our pajamas (the only thing we could possibly get away with not
washing) and arrived at the Schongang waschsalon. Walking in we were
greeted by dim lighting, hookahs and Reggae music. Hmmm...had we
mistakingly walked into a bar instead of the laundromat? As it turns
out, this bar also doubles as a laundromat AND an Internet Cafe. It was
multitasking at its finest. Clean clothes, a strawberry juice and vodka
cocktail and the statisfaction of being up to date on my emails. We all
jokingly commented on our way back to the hostel that now that we had
clean clothes, we could probably rule the world.
Saturday was devote to lounging in cafes, exploring the Dom St. Marien
and Serverikirche (home to the sarcophagus of St. Severus) and that
evening we headed back to the Augustinian Monastery for a Nacht Konzert
(Night Concert). The choir from The Netherlands had compiled a number
of Luther Hymn's and sang different composer's versions of the hymn.
Again, words fail me here but suffice to say that the performance was
another glimpse. On Sunday we headed to Erfurt's theater for an
afternoon matinee of "My Fair Lady." The music was lively and
entertaining, despite being entirely in German and left me jazzed to
one day see Audrey Hepburn in the English silver screen version.
Another glimpse. By Monday it was already time to head to a new city.
Time once again to pack up. Worn out clothes were finally tossed, books
were attempted to be left behind (unfortunately, our "helpful" hostel
staff prevented this from happening and returned the books that were of
course "accidentally" left behind). We all had to face the reality that
13 days from now we will be heading our seperate ways. Most of us will
head back to Seattle where they'll scatter for summer jobs, Peace Corps
prep and family vacations. The lucky few will have a week or more to
continue avoiding reality before returning to a world filled with
credit card bills, car payments, relationships to reconcile, tragedies
to accept and friendships to mourn the loss of. What gives me hope is
that returning to "reality" does not necessarily mean we need to give
up the zest for adventure, hope for magical moments and quest for
knowledge. The other day our prof noted that growth is not giving up
former mindsets. This is called change. Genuine growth is building upon
what we already know and have faith in. I hope that none of us forget
this despite the distractions of to-do lists, financial obligations and
family pressures that await us back at home.
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