Border crossing from Vietnam to Laos at Bo Y was smooth. The Vietnamese guard shouted 'Go! Go to Laos!' good-naturedly. I think he was envious because suddenly the roads were questionable but the people were the calmest, least venal on the planet. Result!
Our first bus ride in Laos was better than a guided tour. Big speakers dotted the inside luggage racks, pumping out Laos and Thai pop hits. A sizeable screen at the front offered us the opportunity to sing along, karaoke style. We'd arrived!
we laughed when they hoisted the first scooter aboard, couldn't believe it when the second one joined it in the aisle and started taking photos when a fridge was roped to the driver's seat...Then, some farm's cabbage and sweet potato harvest was loaded onto the back seats and side baggage compartments. Lothian Buses will have to try harder in future.
A Laos highlight was the trip to Champasak. Taking a boat down the Mekong from Pakse, we enjoyed a relaxing river morning watching the other boats fishing and working.
we cycled to the mighty Wat Phu temple ruins through friendly villages where the kids shout 'Hello!' and try to high-five you as you whizz past. The temple itself is beautifully landscaped on a grand scale. Founded over 1000 years ago, dedicated to Buddhism AND Hinduism. A wise insurance policy.
Next we took a very special boat over to Dong Daeng island: 2 wicker chairs atop wooden planks joining 2 fishing boats. A wee engine sputtered us over the Mekong and dropped us on a beach in front of a community guesthouse run by villagers. A superb experience staying there. They catered to our vegetarian diet by dishing up three egg-based meals on the trot. Serves us right for being awkward!Our guide snail-cycled round the island with us in tow, taking his well-earned breaks every 10 minutes or so. He broke our will:we were now officially on Laos time where things move slow and 11am to 2pm is a time for reflection, not action.
we slept on a mattress out on the terrace under a mosquito net and spectacular starshow. Our claim to camping in Laos.
We went uphill to the Bolaven plateau to check out the view and some waterfalls. Tad Lo is a tranquil village and we were well looked after by Mama Pap, who ran the guesthouse and a restaurant. The room was a bungalow on stilts, made from bamboo, and surrounded by goats, cows, dogs, roosters... and kids! This place had a quiet atmosphere. Our gears shifted down even further. To start a day with a pint glass of Laos coffee is to start the day with an advantage. To end it with a Beerlao is sublime.
