Yes, I made it to Santiago !!! Wednesday morning, early, I set off to go the last 4k to the Cathederal. Stopped off at a truly old cafe for some of the usual Spanish breakfast of cafe con leche and toast, but this one was truly elegant. Then to the Oficina del Peregrino to get my compostella (certificate of completion). There was a line of perhaps a dozen or so pilgrims, many of whom I recognized from our days of walking, and it was a feeling that I cannot describe. We had all shared the same days of joy and pain, and just to look into everyone's eyes was to understand each other without words. Everyone who came out of the office with their compostella was given a round of applausefrom the waiting pilgrims. It was around 10:30 when I received mine, and so it was time to get to the cathederal. Around a corner, and then ther it was, this enormmous plaza, and to the right the cathederal. It is grander and larger than I really expected, and so I was stunned for a few minutes. I did try to get a few good shots from outside, but it was still a little overcast, so my photos do not show its real beauty. As it was still before the noon pilgrims mass, I was able to spend some time looking inside. Again, I cannot express how beautiful and moving this cathederal is. You could feel the emotions of millions of earlier pilgrims, and I was completely overcome. Behind the main alter are many small chapels,all of which were of special character. There is a narrow staircase you can climb up that leads behind the figure of Santiago Peregrino. It is a pilgrim tradition to give him a hung from behind and give thanks for a safe trip. then down another narrow set of steps to the crypt where there is a silver casket of the bones of the saint. After this moving progression, I sat down in one of the pews to await the pilgrim mass. There were about 30 of us in the front and side of the alter area, and it was again good to wave to some of my traveling companions. The lights were turnred up, and the service started out with one nun singing, then a procession of probably two dozen priests. The mass, although mostly in Spanish, is directed toward pilgrims, and they give a tally of the number of pilgrims and their respective countries every day. This service is always overflowing with people, pilgrims, tourists, locals. Every one of us were touched by the beauty of the service and we all looked around and shook each others hands. The closing of the service was special in that they did the swinging of the bonafumerio. The botafumerio is a large silver container hung from the celing of the cathederal, filled with insence. This was in history used to "fumigatre" the cathederal from the rather dirty pilgrims. It now is a tremendously popular ceremony. To watch the botafumerio swing to almost hit the ceiling of the cathederal, not to mention the heads of those of us sitting on the side pews, was such a thrill, and concluded with a loud applause from all. The lights then dimmed, and the mass was over. I was not able to get many good pictures from inside the cathederal due to it being rather dark, but here is a link to the cathederal website so you can also view the inside. http://www.catedraldesantiago.es After having a good lunch and visiting some other historic sites in the city, I decided that it was time to come home. So, batterd, bug bitten and tired, I walked another 4k to the train station, and bought a ticket back to Madrid. But that in itself is another story. Note that there are now photos attached to the journal.
