Buen Camino

The Camino Again 2013

lrvajretti — Fri, 2 Aug 2013 04:08:00 GMT

And so here we go again! The Camino from Ferrol to Santiago .... Santiago to Finesterre ..... September

But Wait ..... There is so much more

lrvajretti — Tue, 21 Oct 2008 03:53:00 GMT

Check back in about a week and I will have updated the stories. There is so much more to add to every day I was away. Since I had to share the computer with so many other pilgrims while in the albergues, I was limited in the time I could spend sharing my adventure. Now that IU have more time I will copy everything from my personal daily journal. There will also be more pictures.

In the Footsteps of a Diva in Spain

lrvajretti — Mon, 6 Oct 2008 05:49:00 GMT

Alas my loved ones, I have arrived back home a week early. When last we talked I was standing in a plaza in Santiago de Compostela deciding what to do next. I could have gone on to Finisterra for a few days ..... or stayed in Santiago ..... what would possibly make me leave my beloved Spain early? Well, I did complete the pilgrimage, around 120 miles on foot. This was my purpose for the trip. To spend more time in Spain would have felt like a tourist trip and I needed to remain the pilgrim. On top of that, there were bedbug problems in some of the alburges earlier on the road, which I had learned from some of my fellow pilgrims who started around Burgos. Ihadno problems .... until my last two nights ! By Wednesday I was covered with bites, and was constantly scratching everywhere, hard while carrying a backpack. The thought of staying in another albergue was absurd. I was already hot and sweaty, and so the decision to come home was an easy one. Sure, I could have gone off to see my friends in San Sebastian and enjoyed a few spa days, but home seemed to be the real answer. You may remember one of my earlier blogs where I said that I wanted to go home ..... There were some days on the trip, early in the mornings, when I thought I would not be able to do another day. It was not so much the physical part, but my emotions simply took over. The Camino can do that to you. You spend so many hours of the day walking, just looking at each step, talking to yourself, contemplating whatever your "monkey mind" may conjure up. It can be hard. The first part of the journey was filled with beautiful scenery and the most wonderful people. The last part became more of the tourist path, and then the situation became less heart warming. Even the locals seemed to be be annoyed with all of these people taking over countryside. The warmth really wasn't there. But still you go on. And so it was an easy decision to come home. I walked to the train station, got a ticket for the overnignt train to Madrid, and waited for about 5 hours. Couldn't sleep on the train, so when I arrived in Madrid around 8AM, I was a mess. Then a taxi to the airport ..... in Madrid traffic. Once at the airport, I had to try to find out who was handling Air Canada ticketing as they did not have a kiosk anywhere. Another hour trying to sort this out, and finally was able to change my ticket to leave the same day. Thursday, 12:40. Sat in the airport for another few hours, but was entertained by the group of Chinese people getting ready to fly to Bejing. They were speaking Spanish to each other, not Chinese ! Who would have thought? They apparently lived in Spain. So, finally on the long 15 hour trip back to San Francisco. At this point I had been up since 6AM Wednesday, Spain time. Finally arrived back in my little house in Campbell around 11PM Thursday night, and immediately into a hot shower. I've had a few days in order to get back into the US routine, but the Camino still haunts me. Was it "fun"? No, not in the sense that we all think of as fun. Was it a challenge? Hell, yes. Was it worth it? Yes, even with the pain and joy. Would I do it again? Probably not, but you never know. This was for my personal achievement, and I did it ..... 120 miles in 12 days, including a few rest days. And so I would like to thank all of you who kept in touch with me during my trip. You have no idea of how much your love and encouragement meant to me !

Gallery: Camino

lrvajretti — Sat, 4 Oct 2008 08:48:00 GMT

Santiago or Bust

lrvajretti — Sat, 4 Oct 2008 07:56:00 GMT

Yes, I made it to Santiago !!! Wednesday morning, early, I set off to go the last 4k to the Cathederal. Stopped off at a truly old cafe for some of the usual Spanish breakfast of cafe con leche and toast, but this one was truly elegant. Then to the Oficina del Peregrino to get my compostella (certificate of completion). There was a line of perhaps a dozen or so pilgrims, many of whom I recognized from our days of walking, and it was a feeling that I cannot describe. We had all shared the same days of joy and pain, and just to look into everyone's eyes was to understand each other without words. Everyone who came out of the office with their compostella was given a round of applausefrom the waiting pilgrims. It was around 10:30 when I received mine, and so it was time to get to the cathederal. Around a corner, and then ther it was, this enormmous plaza, and to the right the cathederal. It is grander and larger than I really expected, and so I was stunned for a few minutes. I did try to get a few good shots from outside, but it was still a little overcast, so my photos do not show its real beauty. As it was still before the noon pilgrims mass, I was able to spend some time looking inside. Again, I cannot express how beautiful and moving this cathederal is. You could feel the emotions of millions of earlier pilgrims, and I was completely overcome. Behind the main alter are many small chapels,all of which were of special character. There is a narrow staircase you can climb up that leads behind the figure of Santiago Peregrino. It is a pilgrim tradition to give him a hung from behind and give thanks for a safe trip. then down another narrow set of steps to the crypt where there is a silver casket of the bones of the saint. After this moving progression, I sat down in one of the pews to await the pilgrim mass. There were about 30 of us in the front and side of the alter area, and it was again good to wave to some of my traveling companions. The lights were turnred up, and the service started out with one nun singing, then a procession of probably two dozen priests. The mass, although mostly in Spanish, is directed toward pilgrims, and they give a tally of the number of pilgrims and their respective countries every day. This service is always overflowing with people, pilgrims, tourists, locals. Every one of us were touched by the beauty of the service and we all looked around and shook each others hands. The closing of the service was special in that they did the swinging of the bonafumerio. The botafumerio is a large silver container hung from the celing of the cathederal, filled with insence. This was in history used to "fumigatre" the cathederal from the rather dirty pilgrims. It now is a tremendously popular ceremony. To watch the botafumerio swing to almost hit the ceiling of the cathederal, not to mention the heads of those of us sitting on the side pews, was such a thrill, and concluded with a loud applause from all. The lights then dimmed, and the mass was over. I was not able to get many good pictures from inside the cathederal due to it being rather dark, but here is a link to the cathederal website so you can also view the inside. http://www.catedraldesantiago.es After having a good lunch and visiting some other historic sites in the city, I decided that it was time to come home. So, batterd, bug bitten and tired, I walked another 4k to the train station, and bought a ticket back to Madrid. But that in itself is another story. Note that there are now photos attached to the journal.

Made it to San Marcos

lrvajretti — Tue, 30 Sep 2008 23:01:00 GMT

I am on top of Monte Goza overlooking Santiago. Will get there tomorrow, only a mile or so down the mountain. Someone must be looking out for me as I was able to walk the entire 18k, much of which was uphill, with not much difficulty. The original plan was to make it just to Lavacolla, but I was full of energy so went the distance. Lavacolla is where the pilgrims used to wash themselves before getting into Santiago. The latin term is something like "wash the male parts" - honest I couldn´t make this stuff up. Guess there weren´t any women pilgrims. Didnt see anyone taking a bath in the river, so I just went on. I am an albergue on top of the mountain tonight - not many of us today. I believe that the busy time is around the weekends - haven´t seen the German synchronized walkers with their tap, tap of the walking sticks, nor have I seen any more of the touragrinos. Perfect, as I want to attend the noon pilgrims mass tomorrow. The weather has been absolutely perfect, except for the erain going over O´Cerreio. In the 70´s, clear days, a little chilly in the evenings. Tonight I am in a room with two I am so much better today, it was wise of me to take off yesterday as a rest day. Aside from a bum knee, some bruises, one blister, many callous, some bug bites and shaggy hair, I anm doing quite well. Can´t wait to take all of these walking clothes and burn them! Claire - the German team wears the Crocks in the evening - your favorite shoes. So, off for some laundry duty qand a nap. Will update again from Santiago. Love to all !!!

Arca Update

lrvajretti — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 17:03:00 GMT

Just to let you all know that my leg is much better this morning - the swelling appears to have gone down, and the pain is almost gone. going to stay the night here in Arca again just to prepare for the final day´s walking - 10 miles to Santiago. I will probably stay there for 2 days, perhaps get to Finisterre (the end of the world) for a day´s visit, and then hopefully I can get an earlier flight home. Will post again from Santiago !!!! PS .... I have now had a great lunch of wine, bread, fied anchovies (EJ will be proud of me) and sauteed chicken. It´s a wonder how good food can make you feel - my first real meal in perhaps 5 days. Although you get a full bottle of wine delivered to your table, you do not need to drink it all. Three glasses were two more than I needed, but I really do feel great right now. Think I can do Santiago tomorrow. If this makes no sense, blame it on the wine which is considered a food group in Spàin. Hasta.

Santiago in Sight ..... but .....

lrvajretti — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 02:55:00 GMT

Well, here it is Sunday already and I am very close to Santiago. I am in Arca this evening, and began the long journey fom Arzua. One of my longer walks today, but there are not that many places to actually stay along this last aspect of the Camino. When last I posted a story I was in Melide and was going to actualy have dinner. Waited until around 8:00 as you have to eat on Spanish time. But I just wasn´t hungry again. So I just had a few almonds, and went to bed. Story gets good here. It was still a little light so I covered my eyes with my bandanna in hopes that with two sleeping pills I would drop off. No ... someone in the pod of 8 beds had literally poured on some smally Ben Gay stuff and the room really smelled. Then the man who had the bunk above me came in, talked with a friend, and just dropped off to sleep. And snored ...... and snored ..... and snored. All night. None of us could get sleep. What is it about ear plugs ...they just fall out of our ear! At this time I tied on the bandanna over my eyes and ears in order to keep the ear plugs in. Did not work. The next morning when I was having my coffee across the street a couple from Germany said they were kept up bu the snoring also. We did have a laugh all day about it. We all decided that the albergue scene, while cheap, is hardly condusive to sleep. When I got to Arzua, checked into a hotel with a room and bath to myself !!!!!!! And a TV with Spanish soap operas! At least I got a good nights sleep. Again, not hungry. This morning I made the decision to do the whole trek to Arca. Did have the chance to have my backpack transported, but I didn´t want to be a "touragrino". Wrong decision. About 2 miles before Arca, I took a step in the wrong direction, and now I have ace bandages on my right knee. The calf is also in serious pain. I was lucky to get a taxi to stop along the road and give me a ride in. I will see tomorrow how I feel, if not better than I will wait another day. So, Santiago on Tuesday or Wednesday. Then I WANT TO COME HOME. The countryside is beautiful with much of the Camino running through rural areas off the road, tall trees and lots of cows and farms. I will let everyone know the latest scoop here in the pilgrim trenches in a few days. And for now, everyone keep safe - I miss all of you.!!!

Feliz Cumplianos para me

lrvajretti — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 23:55:00 GMT

Well, here it is ! 60 and feeling lonely without my family and friends. But just had a vino tinto and feeling a little better. The day started out in the negative. I was close to Palasde Rei and decided that I had enough. Dropped in at a small albergue with 20 beds, no meals, but a good hot shower. The usual day - walk, shower, wash, rest. Didn´t get around to eating again, just a bocadillo of cheese and tomato for the day - just not hungry in the evening. The albergue was in a historic stone building, and as it turnes out, only 5 people in it for the night. That is good ! Slept for about 10 hours, the decided to get up early while it was still dark and started walking around 7:00. After a hard day, I was able to make it to Melide, where I was hoping to get to. A long hard day, and I am ready to pass out, but I must save myself for dinner tonight (not until 7:00 as in Spain that is early). I am waiting to have some pulpo (octopus) which I have eaten before in San Sebastian and I love it. Then early to bed. I am in an alberguie with 130 other assorted people. As time passes you ge used to it. I have absolutely no modesty any more when it comes to showers, and so I was using the open sided ones this evening. My pod inludes 8 beds, 6 of whom are men - not sure who will snore more tonight. Tomorrow Iwill be off fo Arzua and getting pretty close to Santiago. Think I will check into a pension and take a rest day. I don´t want to get into Santiago on Sunday as it will bve awfully crowded. Decided that Monday would be better, and arranged to meet 3 women from Kansas there. They ave walked the entire route, and I bow to them. Can´t believe that I am this close to Santiago - some days I just think I can´t do another day. Note to Michelle: Every day I hit my comfort zone, and somehow I have been able to step beyond it. Thank you. And so to my family - Deidra, thank you for the wonderful note - I miss you and hope to see you soon. Saw some great shoes this afternoon, but it was between getting them or carrying my clothes for a few more days. Guess which won. Renee and Jori - thanks for the encouragement and love -Jori, start taking your Spanish lessons. Ed - are we getting new plumbing? What a blessing that would be, and thanks for the buenos bannanas -sounds just like you. Carrie - please assure mom that I am OK, and will promise to return. Dave: I will be using the Diva in Spain story line shortly - take care of the office wile Bill is away and give us all big raises. To all of my friends and loved ones - MISS ALL OF YOU.

Reflections of a Pilgrim in Portomarin

lrvajretti — Wed, 24 Sep 2008 21:44:00 GMT

Hola amigos. Finally made it to Portomarin, on a water way and built on the side of a mountain. Again, a beautiful town. Went from Sarria yesterday to a little hostel not far from here. I keep getting into some lucky circumstances. This was a true little Spanish hostel in a hamlet called Morgade. Old stone building made into a comfortable hostel with a separate salon including a fireplace. There is a cafe attached and they serve what all of pilgrims look for - a menu de dia. The hostel was 8 euros, quite cheap for a room with three beds, shared bath. But the place is spotless. After the usual beer, I had a small caldo gallegos and riberio. This is a local white wine served in a small bowl. Although the food here is mouth watering, I am still not eating much - just not hungry. Usually a bocadillo (a large sandwith with whatever in it) cut into two, a little in the morning and some in the evening. The walk itself is from a storybook. Paths through tall trees, stone walls with moss, green everywhere. The Camino in this area is well marked, but so busy. I counted around 50 people who passed me yesterday morning before I stopped conting. Unfortunately, not all of my fellow pilgrims are truly into the spirit of the pilgrimage. There is lots of litter on the sides of the road, I am sure that the local people who live here are upset over it. And there are more "day pilgrims", who walk (or should I say speed) during the day and have someone transport their packs. Then they get to the albergues before you and take all of the room. The worse are the German groups - sorry Jurgen, but most of them have been rude. Nonetheless, I have met some incredible people along the way, both travelers and locals. Sharing my room for 8 tonight is a litle Austrian man perhsps close to 80 who was at the same hostel with me in Ruitain. It is truly a pleasure to see him again. For now, I have had my shower and did my laundry. It´s around 2:00, and I will sit down with a short beer, write my journal, and just relax. I am sorry that there are no pictures yet, but none of the computers I have been on allow me to download anything. But please check again after Oct. 10 and the pictures and stories will be updated. I am doing great, and look forward to traveling a long day tomorrow. Love to all.

In Sarria

lrvajretti — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:23:00 GMT

Made it to Saria, but had to take a taxi. The hike up the mountain yeaterday was just too much for me, the pack too heavy, the trail straight up. It started to rain, but it was still hot. After getting up to the top of O Cebreio, it was windy. Needless to say, I was not happy. My stomach started acting up, so I only had some hot tea, then down the mountain to Triacastle. Slept there for about 10 hours, now going to rest in Sarria and start the trail again tomorrow morning. So far I have not gotten that warm and fuzzy pilgrim feeling but I hope that will change tomorrow. The people are beautiful! Will check in again in a few days. Carrie, let Mom know that I am fine.

Boots on the Ground

lrvajretti — Sat, 20 Sep 2008 21:46:00 GMT

And so I have finally had a chance to get onto the sight again to let everyone know that I am just fine. It was a long trip from San Francisco to Madrid, delay in the plane from Toronto to Madrid, then my backpack went missing for awhile. After I found it again, barely had time to get an expensive cab from the airport to the train station. Well, Spanish train stations, you wait in long lines to get the ticket. It is complicates as they give you an assigned seat, and at eery stop people are getting on and off, therefore all of this has to be coordinated. Don´t know how they did this before computers. The train from Madrid to Leon was comfortable, took arout 4 hours. Next step, find the hotel in Leon. I got lost. An hour later I finally found it - Hotel Paris, not exactly as nice as advertised. Overnight in Leon, then another train to Ponferrada, again got lost trying to fine the refusio, so I stayed at a charming little hostel. First thing, boots on the ground, and on the Camino. Day one was great, then second day was a little too tiring. Today much better, and I am close to getting to the top of O Ceberio. Today is the first day that I feel like a real pilgrim.

There is much to tell, but there is a line waiting for the computer so check back in a few days.

Buen Camino !

Two Weeks and Counting

lrvajretti — Tue, 2 Sep 2008 05:33:00 GMT

Two weeks from now - in Spain !!! I am now getting everything arranged in my pack, and of course there is just too much. I have wittled it down to 3 pairs of pants (one just for going out), 4 shirts, minimal undies, boots and sandals, rain poncho, one fleece, sun hat and skull cap, silk liner and sleep cover, lots of bandages, sunscreen, a Swiss Army knife, and a camera. CampSoap for all uses, a small quick drying towel. One map with list of hostels. No make up ... no Wei East ... no rose water ... no hair putty. I know how to travel in full luxury. Oh, yes, I am taking my iPod filled with Spanish lessons. GK: I found an adapter, so no need to go for the solar panel.

The plan is to fly from SFO via Ari Canada to Toronto, then on to Madrid. I am now going directly to Leon via a train as I can see that it will take me longer to get to Santiago than I originally thought. I want to savor every step. There is no need to race so I will take my time and instill in my brain all of the sights, smells and tastes of Spain. And of course setg them into my camera to share later.

I have been taking walks to get ready for the pilgrimage, and now taking to the hills go get the shins stronger. It is all about endurance and getting into the one foot after another rhythm.

I look forward to my first sip of superior Spanish wine - to that first taste of the greatest food in the world. I wish all of you could experience this with me.

Do not worry about me as I will be fine. My father will be looking out for me. So, this one is for you Dad.

Some Opening Thoughts

lrvajretti — Wed, 6 Aug 2008 01:34:00 GMT

Just a month away from the adventure of a lifetime - walking the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain. This will be a 60th birthday present to myself. Never thought I would make it! And so what better way to celebrate than to take a pilgrimage in another country, and doing it alone.

And so you ask, what is "The Camino"? Essenially it is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain, where it is believed that the tomb of the Apostle James is found. (Here is a link for more information on the history

http://www.americanpilgrims.com/camino/history.html )

I first encountered the Camino a few years ago when my mother and I were in Spain visiting her friends Txuss and Luis from San Sebastian. We drove part of the Camino through the Navarra region, and made several stops at pilgrimage sites. I was instantly intrigued, and knew that I would someday walk these ancient roads myself.

I will fly into Madrid, then take a train to either Pamplona and walk part of the Navara region first, or go directly to Leon and walk the remaining 100+ miles starting there.

Crazy? absolutely! Scared? not at all! As my acupuncturist Jacquelyn Lorell said, this isn't a new chapter, it's a new book.

I will keep you all posted as the trip nears.