The train journey had begun...there was no going back now, and I knew it. I had no music/no proper food (except biscuits/crisps and some mouldy oranges!)...all I had was my book, my one salvation on this god forsaken journey!! I led down on my bunk, began to read but within moments had drifted into a light, wistful sleep...
in and out of consciousness for a while, the journey seemed to be passing by smoothly. There was no reason for me to move from my bunk except to go to the toilet and I conversed only a little with my fellow train buddies, none of which spoke any english...and spent most of the time laughing at my bed hair which sprouted everytime I woke from my sleep. I didn't mind though and I really wished I could communicate with them to hear their stories and find out about their lives!! As the journey continued and the darkness consumed from outside, I decided it was time to enjoy one of those little sleeping pills...I took one and as hoped for was out for the count for quite a few hours. When I did wake up I noticed a western guy had got on and was sleeping in the bunk below me!! I said a brief hello and then passed out again!!
The next morning I spent most of the train journey reading my book and doing a bit of writing/planning for when I got back to England. When we were not 5 hours from Varanasi I clambered down and went to sit with the remaining indians and the westerner on the bottom bunk. The westerner was from Cananda and called Andrew and he was luckily going to Varanasi as well, so we agreed to find a hotel together which eased a lot of the pressure off!! He seemed like a cool guy and we had pretty similar outlooks on life as a traveller in India..
When we left the train station we stumbled across a generous tuk tuk driver who offered to shaparone as around whilst looking for a hotel (he wanted 50rupees and was obviousley working on commision-but 50 rupees is NOTHING so was happy to oblige!!)...After taking us to a number of dives, including one where the beds were made of straw...NO THANKS!we came across a fairly basic one but for a v. cheap price. After showering and lunch in the hotel, we asked the hotel owner to show us the way to the ganges where we wished to catch a boat which would take us along the river to see the "ghats"...
We arrived in time for the sunset and paid a boatman to take us on a trip along the river. It was really quite emotional there on the ganges...again I was getting in touch with my spiritual side being in such a religious city!! I felt really sorry for the boatman, he was a tad boss eyed and i assume maybe a little blind, but he did a good job and took us to see the burning bodies at the "burning" ghat. It wasnt how I expected. I thought it would just be a ton of dead bodies on a bonfire, but it was a lot more respectful. You could only see the feet poking out of the fires, nothing more....and to be honest I was quite grateful!! Got a bit of shock when one of the family members of the deceased picked up what was left of the fire ( a human breast bone!) and chucked it into the river next to me.....I was on the receiving end of some splash back, not cool!!
Anyway, after our gallivant down the river...Andrew and I attempted to find our way back to the hotel. With so many windy alleyways, it proved rather difficult and we had to ask for a number of directions. I loved it here though and was sad to only spend a night in the place! Once home, i hit the hay pretty early....but found it v.v.v. difficult to sleep due to an indian wedding happening down below......another sleeping pill for me!! I was becoming an addict!!....I awoke the next morning at something ridiculous like 4.30am to get another boat down the ganges and watch the sunrise......the first sunrise I've probably EVER woken up for!!! It was stunning, and I do not regret it!!...We saw loads of people having their morning swim in the river, and to top it off we saw an eagle swoop down from one of the buildings and catch a fish in its beak before flying off again.................it was AMAZING!! I could only think of my dad at this point and his love of birds!!
After this we went for breaky at a rooftop cafe overlooking the ganges. I had a coconut pancake and it was simply divine!! I really really loved this city.....I loved how some of the buildings seemed to be sinking into the river. It was like the lost world or something!!! Anyway after packing up my stuff, a beginers class in yoga from Andrew and a rush to the train station...I was sad to wave goodbye. After worrying so much about being on my own I was really begining to value it!! It was nice to realise i could actually be independant when i wanted to be!!
The train journey to Delhi was fairly standard. The people I was sat with barely spoke any English, but looked after me and offered me their food...a typical indian thing to do and something i was learning to appreciate A LOT!! I got a couple of hours sleep, before arriving in Delhi and being met by Waris...the friend I had met in Mumbai...
It was absolutely FREEZING when i got off the train. Waris and I got in a tuk tuk to take us to his appartment...and I'm telling you if i had bollocks they would have frozen off by this point!! It was bloody ridiculous, but was preparing me for the harsh realities of England. We stopped at an egg stall where Waris bought me breakfast, and then went back to his home where i slept like a baby for a couple of hours...
Waris then took me to his ACTUAL appartment which was bloody stunning. He was getting work done on it, so was staying in temporary accomodation. I had a shower, then he took me shopping to get all me prezzies for me fam!! I was extremely grateful to have him with me as he bartered down all the prices for me, instead of me paying 10 times the actual price of the items!! What a god send!!...I then had my first indian maccy dees experience...before catching up with one of his business associates for some much needed beverages. This was a totally different side to the Delhi I had seen before, and it was eye-opening to see how different people can live in India....
Waris's business man then lent us his scooter which took us back home. Wow, this was my first time on one of these in India, and it was pretty exciting!! If i trusted myself more with vehicles, I think I would have driven one myself....but i probably would have died!!..That night, we hit the town with him and his brothers and went to a bit of a "seedy" bar for bevvies. On point of arrival, me and his brother got in a lift and my worst nightmare occured!! The lift crashed and was stuck in it for about a bloody hour...I was screaming inside, but tryin to keep a cool deameanour. My claustrophobia was catching up on me, and I had vivid daymares of dying of starvation in that lift...
Spent the rest of the evening drinking rum and cokes, and laughing at them all practising the bollywood moves!! To begin with I wasnt so sure about this...but was really learning to love it. Thats the thing about India, there a lot of things that just take a while to get used to, but once you are used to them you love them (even the people that poo on the road!!).........After drinks, the others left and Waris took me to a late night cafe, we had biriyani and then hit the hay...
I awoke in the morning a bit frantic. I was having fits again about staying or leaving. I really didnt want to go, and being a spontaneous old bean I ALMOST said fuck it again, and missed my flight on purpose. But then my sensible soul kicked in, and told me I really SHOULD catch my flight and make a go of it in England. If it didnt work out, I could always come back. For once I decided to stick to my original plan................soooo I scrambled together my belongings and made a dash for the airport!! After printing my ticket off at a neighboring hotel, I arrived 5 mins within the cut off point, said my emotional goodbyes to Waris who had been a complete angel to me since I'd met him and I couldnt have appreciated him more...
But there I was on me own again...standing in line for my flight home, and I was crying. I dont know if I've ever felt so sad to leave a place...every second I was soooo close to running out the door and back into the arms of India!! I know I sound like a cheeseball, but I really couldnt give a hoot. It had taken my breath away...
Buttt I caught my flight, which I knew was the right thing to do...and made my way to the land of chilly willies Ye Olde UK........I had a horrendus cold by this point which was also dampening my spirits!! With a 10 hour stop in Saudi Arabia (which was horrif...no-one to talk too and nowhere comfy to sleep...altho a nice soldier did buy me some croissants!!)...I boarded the 6 hour flight to England!! We arrived at 6am, but got stuck on the plane for hours waiting for something to happen. When I finally did get off, my luggage took ages to come and I missed my train home!! Had to pay £40 for another train.........having just spent a 5er in India for a 28 hour train journey, I was not impressed!!!
As I sat on the train home, I pondered upon my experience in India. I don't believe that a person can dramatically change in a matter of 2 months...but at this point in time, I was feeling stronger (it may sound like a cliche but its true!)...I felt stronger in the sense, that I felt more at ease and accepting of who I was. I had been through chickpea puking, bum chafing, infected cole slaws, nakedness in the indian ocean, eating my whole body weight in aloo gobi and chai, been abandoned on motorways, conversed with rabid monkey's and dogs, been hugged by a guru, been confined on a train for 28 hours, nearly drowned in a tidal wave along with alllll the other scenarios...and LIVED to tell the tale!! I really felt like I could accomplish anything from now....I was sad to be home, but I was positive about a brighter, happier future!! THE END!!!!
