We are in this lovely place in Tamil Nadu where many thousands of pilgrims come to walk around the mountain ( old volcanic plug) on the full moon. The place is full of Ramana Maharshi devotees, wearing white and generally very peaceful.There are also a lot of other 'gurus' advertising their special route to easy enlightenment which I wasn't interested in!
I have been walking up the hill early to listen to the monk(sadhu?) chanting in the ashram where Ramana lived, largely in silence for many years. There is a rocky path
which takes about thirty minutes through birdsong and distant traffic noise. The ashram is built out of a cave and the morning praise to Sri Ramana catches the amplification of the rocks and is truly wonderful. Then there is silence, then shuffling and you begin to notice the mosquitoes again. I have been reading various accounts of his life on this hill( said to be the body of Shiva) and becoming more and more impressed by this powerful landscape, full of stories of realisation.
Yesterday we joined in the mass circumnambulation with thousands of Indian devotees who walk barefoot for the 14km route and stop at many temples along the way to receive blessings. It is hard to convey the magic of this four hour walk, past many chai stalls, food sellers and temples. It is said to be the equivalent of walking around the whole world, and even more purifying than a dip in the Ganges. Certainly seeing this magic mountain from every angle was deeply inspiring and when we staggered back to our hotel and fell into bed we were also floating with joy.
Tomorrow we begin to head north, taking a two hour taxi ride to the
train station because we cant bear any more crazy bus journeys. First stop Mysore, then Bylekuppe to visit a large Tibetan settlement, then a brief sojourn in Goa (not the party beach!) before long train journeys back to Varanasi for teachings with Thrangu
Rinpoche - a revered senior teacher from Tibet.
