The Karla caves near Pune are fantastic –they date from the 2nd century BC (same as early Ajanta) and have the largest and best preserved meditation hall in India. Heading out of the sprawling city there was SO much new building going on – all surrounded by smart ads for new apartment blocks. Then the rising hills were a welcome relief and as usual the best hills were well-used by the Buddhists, it was clear we were nearly there when a rocky summit rose above the other hills and the car ground up the steep slopes to a dusty parking lot. A few men approached hopefully offering their services as guide but when they didn’t understand ‘toilet?’ I reckoned they wouldn’t be much help. So we set off up the 200plus steps neatly set into the hill, lined with flower stalls and a few beggars. At the top the sight of the massive caves took my breath away. No amount of reading about the fourteen metre high cavemouth excavated from the rock face, and the large hall inside lined with pillars and a stupa at the end can prepare you for the reality of such a structure. Excavation is no mean feat and I don’t know what tools they had 2,200 years ago but they certainly had dedication and plenty of resources. The large cave was the meeting hall, then there were five or six other huge excavations revealing little cells for the monks. I did some chanting and tried to imagine the austerity of life here in the hills. What sort of people (men) ordained and lived here? The acoustics were amazing. After a happy morning exploring and enjoying the other pilgrims, who were more interested in the modern Hindu temple, we sat and ate our sandwiches under a tree. Other travellers were drinking large amounts of beer and cooking up huge pots of dal on an open fire, and we saw a number of recently killed chickens being carried up the hill to be cooked at the top. We decided that although there were two more groups of caves in the area we were replete and started the hour and a half drive back to Pune.
We just got back on the main road when the driver pointed out a large elephant up ahead. We slowed down for photos and eventually stopped up ahead to get out of the car and take a good shot of its painted face and trunk. I handed over a 100 rupee note as thankyou, into the elephant's well-trained trunk, and the mahout gestured: did we want a ride? Well there was no stopping us. Rani the queen of elephants knelt down and we stepped up using her tail to reach the seat. Four of us crouched rather inelegantly and held on tight as she rose to her full height and started lumbering along the highway. Wonderful to be higher than the trucks who honked going past, waving at the motorbikes who shouted out at us. The American woman in our group jumped up and down for joy when we were getting back in the car, the more reserved English and German grinned inwardly!
The rest of the week in Pune has been tame by comparison - I am here with my parents, and dad is directing a Computing conference so we are honoured guests. There have been some rather smart dinners, a classical music recital, nice shopping trips, a few museums. Even found a 'botanical garden' which at least had names on some of the trees. It was obviously more popular as a lovers meeting place, with every bench occupied by cuddling couples. And there is a Gandhi memorial with touching details of his life and how he was imprisoned by the British in Pune after issuing the 'Quit India' resolution. His wife and secretary both died in the 'prison' (an old Palace) and their ashes were there is a quiet corner of the gardens - signposted 'Samadhi'. Gandhi's remains had obviously been brought back here too so we paid respects to the great man.
