We booked this room weeks ago by email because I remembered that the retreat rooms at the red Drikung Monastery in Tso Pema were in demand. Tashi Dolma, the Rinpoche's wife offered the slightly more expensive one with wooden floor and I liked the sound of it. It also turned out to be twice as big as the others, with full cooking facilities and instant gas hot water- perfect for my five day (nearly) silent retreat. Last time I came for two days and stayed in the rumble of town, near the lake and within earshot of the town dog fights each night. But I had a dream to come back and stay at the top, up four flights of rough concrete steps, past the Rinpoche's house and in the relatively quiet retreat area- maybe 10 rooms which seemed to all be inhabited by women. On the first day we were warned about the monkeys: never leave a door or window open, ungurded for an instant. Don't make eye contact, don't show them any food, and they are afraid only of the big stick which is provided in every room.
On the first day Tracy and I settled in, walked around the holy lake, made a few friends, and stocked up for the retreat (juice and tea and batteries) Then we went to explore the famous caves at the top of the hill. There was Mandarava in her cave, determined to practice despite any obstacles. A superb statue of Guru Rinpoche bursting out of the cave wall. Flags everywhere leading the way to the golden footprint left in the rock by the powerful Guru. We met a smiling monk who invited us for tea. He was staying for a month in Cave No 43, enclosed behind a tin door, with a rough construction to make a front for the cave. He showed us his shrine and simple accommodation and it was precious to imagine the many nuns who live up here full time. We glided down the hill in a silent tuktuk, back to the bustle of town and thali feast for dinner.
The next five days were simple, quiet, magical. In the night the only sound was the plopping of the fish in the lake, and the humming of the dakinis (maybe it was the telephone exchange station:-) Not much to say - but I recommend the room with the wooden floor.
