Here in Bodhgaya life is unbelievable - the many faces of Buddhism gather in the main temple compound from 4am til well after sunset to chant and prostrate and perform their paricular rituals. Large groups of white-clad Sri Lankans vy for position with elegant Korean sangha and puffy-looking groups of Westerners. The main focus point is 'the' tree which is surrounded by railings which are covered in gold leaf and wrapped in endless offerings of flags and scarves and various clashing cloths. Then around the edges, behind every stupa and mini-shrine there are diligent Tibetans doing their full length prostrations on wooden boards, or offering precious gems to the universe - filling the air with a humming of prayers.
The place I am staying is about 2km away, a 10 rupee rickshaw ride (about 12p. It is an exquisite a dharma centre with tree lined
gardens and very friendly volunteers, delicious food and a
sense of refuge from the hassle and dust of India. Also a
gorgeous Great Dane dog which needed someone to take him for
walks - so I got a walking companion and protector and he
got exercise through the local fields and villages where
children run away in horror. So I was amazing happy -
attached to Prince at once. Then the dog got sick and we had a
day of getting medicine and wondering if he would survive.
I tried to help him inside that evening and was rewarded
with a severe BITE. Such immense pain and fear in both my
hands, some blood but nothing broken. Lovely friends around
who held me and wiped my tears when I got the shock and
relief - that it could have been so much worse. There was a
nurse at the clinic who immediately cleaned all the cuts and
jabbed me with tetanus and checked on me for a few days.
Then the healing power of homeopathy has been pure magic and
I had no bruising and the little cuts are nearly healed.
The dog already had rabies injection so I didnt have to go
through that!! Such a profound teaching on attachment to
the body, and now I am famous around town and everyone
enquires tenderly after my hand and health. Sadly the dog
now growls a lot and doesn't want to go for walks - four
years old and not properly trained which is too dangerous
for such a big dog, so they are looking for another place
for my Prince. Meanwhile my study continues and I am
friends with the bookshop manager who is ordering extra
texts for me, and with a travel agent who has booked me a
jeep to visit Vultures Peak on my birthday.
So that is the daily rhythm of Bodhgaya - a few nice cafes in town with familiar faces each night, pilgrim groups coming through, and many maroon robes
I have found a tree, about 30 feet away from THE venerated and much blessed tree Buddha sat under, and very peaceful. At one level I could be
practicing anywhere, yet somehow this is the most clear and
glorious place I have ever been to.
