Day 1 (8km)
We all met at the tour office in Santa Marta and piled into the 4 wheel drives set to take us to into the jungle. We had read a lot of reviews about the 4 day hike, most telling of how hard and painful it was but some also some rubbishing those reviews saying it was easily doable if you were in general good health. No turning back now. Things of note, apart from one guy, we were the oldest by at least 10 years. We also decided to detox over the duration of the hike, no booze for 4 days. We had also been advised to take Malaria tablets before arriving. Once we spoke to local guides and a pharmacist, they told us there had been no Malaria here for 20 years. Just as well too as the tablets were making Jorje sick
Our group was again overbooked with the advertised maximum of 12 apparently stretched to 16 plus a guide and a translator. It didn't really matter though. 3 hours later ( including a lunch break and a malaria pill induced spew out the window from Jorje ) we arrived in Pelao. The town at the start of the Hike. Pelao has been renamed Machete by the locals, they all carry Machetes with decorated handles and sheathes and apparently they use them to settle disputes. We immediately started looking for folks with missing limbs.
The first camp was a mere 8kms away and after about 20 mins walking we stopped at a waterfall. Swim time ! Wait what ? We've only been walking for 1 km. Juantia was heard to say this must be the easiest hike ever. After the swim we walked on and the hiking gods were clearly angered by Juanitas comments as it began to rain heavily, turning the track into mud. The rain wasn't so bad, it was about 30 degrees and 95 percent humidity, so with the amount of sweat pouring off us we were already soaked through. The issue was the track. We found walking sticks for balance and negotiated the jungle paths. The remaining 6 or so kms took about 2 and a half slip sliding hours. At camp we were shown the swimming hole, noticed the wild growing dope plants, and took in the stunning scenery, cleaned ourselves up, found our bunks and got ready for dinner.
At dinner we were joined by 4 million flying ants who engulfed the camp, extra protein on the plate ! It was nearly unbearable until they suddenly subsided, as fast as they arrived and we finished dinner in peace. Thinking an early night was a good idea with 'the big day' tomorrow, we hit the sack. Sadly these sentiments were not shared by a group that had come down the mountain that day and drank yelled well into the night, celebrating their achievement and keeping us awake. At this point we had no idea how much of an achievement it was.
Day 2 ( 20km )
5 am rise and
6am breakfast quickly became
5:45 rise and
6am breakfast. Jorje decided no more malaria pills for him with 20kms in front of us.
7am we were off. About an hour in and a little twist in Juanitas knee from the day before started swelling and causing pain. Not good. Stopping at a hut we noticed free growing coca and marijuana plants, we were offered a tour to watch cocaine get made on the way back and filled in on the history of drugs in columbia, it was actually quite interesting stuff. We soldiered on until lunch through what can only be described as walking in a postcard. The scenery of jungle, mountains, rivers, waterfalls, native villages and wildlife was and is simply stunning. At lunch by another waterfall and swimming hole, we assessed our injuries and aches, both of us suffering with knee issues, Juanita in particular. We decided going at our own pace and painkillers was the best option. The morning had been really tough terrain. 11kms had taken just over 4 hours. The extended lunch break meant a lot of muscles had cooled off and stiffened, we hobbled on at about
1 o'clock, only 9 kms left to reach base camp.
Firmly placed at the back of the pack we hiked together taking in the sights, it really was breathtaking, not that I had any breath left. The tropical rain began again and slowed an already slow pace. Our guide, Enrique, joined us at the back. There were plenty of stops along the way for pictures and fresh fruits from the locals. The only problem with being last was that by the time we arrived at each rest point the group was ready to move on so we got 2 minute breaks while they enjoyed 20mins. With track again turned to mud the afternoon hurt, we decided we were more than half way, took more drugs and put one foot in front of the other, eventually coming to a river crossing. Shoes off and walking through the cold water was amazingly refreshing, shoes back on and hiking again, not so much. Last ones in we arrived at base camp around
5:30. The proposed 7 hour day taking the 2 of us about 10 and a half hours. Shattered. We hit the swimming hole for an hour until dark, the cold water like a recovery session for the muscles. It felt amazing, as did getting all the sunscreen and bug repellent off
We literally ate dinner and crawled into bed
at 7:45. We are so rock and roll.
Day 3 ( 16km including the Lost City )
Early morning rise and breakfast and the day we get to set foot in the Lost City. Pretty fair to say that everything hurt but we popped some neurofen and set off. Its only 1km from base camp to the steps of the city but that 1km was steep enough to test the character. Juanita's knee causing a little breakdown and doubts of climbing the hill. A few tears, a little pep talk, a shoulder to lean on and the drugs finally kicking in and we crossed the river to begin the ascent.
The 1280 stone steps to the city begin at the waters edge at 950m above sea level, with a well concealed entrance then winding up and up and up and up and up and a little more up. About 45 mins of stairs and we arrived at 'the market place' at the bottom of the city, about 1150 m altitude. The city's buildings and features were all built on stone circle foundations around 800 AD and finished in the 11th century. The foundations are what still remain today and were accidentally found by grave robbers in 1975. In Tayrona culture, when you died you were buried beneath your house with food for your onward journey and offerings for the gods, mostly gold and precious stones. Sadly that meant the stone circle foundations were markers for where to dig for thieves. Not an easy theft though as most bodies were buried up to 9 meters deep. All of the photographs we had seen of the lost city showed 3 main circles towards the top of the mountain. What we couldn't conceive is that there are actually 150-200 of these circles. As we walked our way up the mountain through the ruins, it just got more and more beautiful. The intricate craftsmanship on the stairs, circles and paths was amazing. Features pointed out along the way such as map stones - maps of the whole city carved into flat stones as markers for tribes. Also the routing of water along stone paths and down smaller stairways into main areas of the villages.
The Shaman's quarters at the top of the mountain, about 1300m above sea level, are by far the most beautiful and impressive. This was where all the decisions were made and people of power lived. One house for the males and another house for the females. Though covered in cloud when we arrived it soon cleared for photos and the view from the top of the mountain was simply stunning. All the aches and pains had gone as endorphins took over. We rested at the top for half an hour or so then begrudgingly began to make our way down. We took a different path around the mountain through what would be the suburbs of the city and marvelled at the size of the area it covered. Juanita picked out a spot for her Tiki hut to be built, overlooking the valley, and our guide told us how the stones were made and transported, how the huts were built and how people lived.
The city was originally abandoned by the Tayrona people when the Spanish arrived in the 1600's. They were scared of catching diseases from the invaders. Ironically the Spanish never found the city and so it was lost to the jungle. The story has it that in the 1960's, Marijuana cultivation became big business in the area, in 1970 the Colombian government air sprayed all the crops wiping them out, leaving the growers broke or in debt. It was these growers who desperately needing money, began searching for tombs to rob and accidentally found the city. One thieve sold gold to an Archeologist who then paid for the location of the tombs and reported it to the government who then seized control of the area. Though most of the gold and gems had been taken, much of it was later recovered is is now in museums around Colombia.
Lunch back at base camp and we had such a sense of achievement about us. Then it sunk in we had another 10kms to walk in the afternoon. We packed up, popped our painkillers, took about 3 steps and the heavens opened and stayed open for the next 3 hours. What was billed as an easy 2 hour walk took 4 and a half hours with more and more mud and sweat and the occasional swear out loud moment. But again, and I cant say it enough, and I know the pictures wont do it justice, for every one of those moments there was 10 moments of just having to stop and take in the beauty of the scenery that surrounded us, it was like walking in a postcard. Of course the day finished with a recovery session at another swimming hole and a big carb loaded dinner. One day to go, we can make it !
Day 4 ( 19km )
You can do this hike in 4,5 or 6 days. This morning we were heading back to the first night's camp, 11kms away, where you can stay the night or power on the final 8kms back to Machete. Pretty fair to say that at this point we didn't need another night in the jungle. The mornings 11km was the toughest terrain of the trip, it did stay dry for most of it but was still pretty muddy and treacherous from the previous days rain. One step at a time we went on and knocked it off in about 3 hours making pretty good time and not arriving at camp last ! Little victories. We ate fresh fruits and juices and rested for half an hour before making the final decision. We had 3 hours worth of painkillers left and 8kms to go. Lets get out of here !
Turned out to be the longest 8kms of our lives, both literally and mentally. Now at lower altitude the sun came out with blue skies above. This baked the mud and made it rock hard, it also made it super hot with the white sand tracks reflecting the heat. Luckily this far down the hill there is an occasional shop to buy more water or gatorade. We made it to our last checkpoint before the final stretch, only about an hour to go, we thought. Basically we followed road for about 20mins to where the track turned off, however this track was about 2 feet wide, not marked and our guide was nowhere to be seen, and so we missed it. There was a group of about 5 of us and unknowingly we walked straight past our turn-off. About half an hour later we questioned if we were going the right way, but we were on a road ( dirt ), there were lots of footprints heading our direction and tyre tracks from motorbikes, logic said they must head towards town, and they did, eventually. We managed to add about 3 or 4 more kms to the hike. By which time the drugs had worn off, the sun had got hotter, our water had run low, and after 3 and a half days our feet decided to blister. Heads were down and it was one step at a time with the only goal of getting home. Finally reaching the river we ran into our guide who popped out of nowhere on the other side of a small river, from a different direction. Hmmm. This is when we actually found out we had gone the wrong way, but the good news was we had reached town. 500 meters later shoes were off, bags down, bums in chairs and a cold beer poured. Done ! Strangely the main section of our group hadn't arrived. By going the right way they had gone past the last water hole, enjoying a swim and relaxing for an hour while waiting for us to catch up. Suckers, we won !
Definitely the toughest hike we have ever done, both mentally and physically, but the rewards were also great. Not sure we would go through with it again but would definitely recommend it to anyone else to have a crack. The food supplied is plentiful and delicious, campsites are better than we expected, all have western style toilets and running water ( cold ) showers, bunk beds or hammocks, all with mosquito nets, though a few with bed bugs. You will need an abundance of bug spray, sunscreen, a solid walking stick, hat, water bottle(s) and I also recommend a headband with magic powers. The trek will hurt but it is definitely worth doing once.
