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South America 2015

Mud Mud Glorious Mud

COLOMBIA | Thursday, 16 July 2015 | Views [351]

Spanish cannons in the old town.

Spanish cannons in the old town.

Mud mud glorious mud


Once we'd recovered from being pirates on the high seas we explored Cartagena city. It has a very romantic setting, the town surrounded by colonial stone walls, right on the waters edge. The entire Old Town is a Unesco world heritage site, so it has lots of history and character as you can imagine.
 
Walked through the town and along the top of the stone walls. The mix of high-end retail and casual market style shops in the city was great. Juanita having to restrain herself from wanting to go a shopping-binge.
Popped into the naval museum for a looksie, and made-up our own stories about the sea and the pirates on display as the information was in Spanish only. 
 
Took a bus 40 minutes out of town to El Totumo, 'Totumo Volcano'. Using the word 'volcano' very loosely here, it wasn't really a volcano, albeit the bus load of tourists were excited at the thought that we were hiking up a volcano. 
 
So it was really a geyser. Looks like a two story high giant ant hill. The fun part was that it was filled with glorious black mud which we all got in. The locals are already in it, and for a small tip will give you a massage while you're floating around in the mud. It's very weird stuff, actually very buoyant in it, float on the top of it, and whenever somebody else moved around it would create a sucking current and pull you towards their direction. And it smells strange, tastes very salty and feels luke-warm.
Jorje was a pig in mud, loved it. Juanita had her massage, a mud-mask facial and was one of the first out.
 
It got even more fun when we had to get all the mud off us. The local señoritas take your hand and lead you out into the fresh water lake, where they scrub you down, pour bowls of water over you, strip your bathers off you and wash them for you too.
 
Travelled the next day from Cartagena to Santa Marta on a door-to-door shuttle bus. Although we did have to do a military style jump with our big backpacks on into the open bus door as the bus was moving down the street as the driver didn't seem to be allowed to stop. Two other travellers also followed suit, but unfortunately the bus driver had slowed-down too much in a no-stopping zone and the police busted him big time with a fine. A lot of hand-waving, loud Spanish and slamming of the bus door, the cop eventually moved his motorbike from in front of our bus and we were allowed to continue on down the street. But not very far. On the next street corner the cops pulled the bus over again, blocked it in and more arguing with the driver, and some more police officers getting involved. This happened four times and must of gone on for a good hour. Very concerned at this point that we might be having another 7 hour stand-off whilst stuck on a bus. Eventually our bus driver (who was fuming at this point) swerved around the parked cop motorbikes, tore off down the street and back to the bus depot, we swapped to another bus and we were on our way to Santa Marta. Hooray.
 
It was a short 4.5 hour journey on a very straight, very flat highway. No travel sickness, spew bags or muesli bars required.
The scenery on the way was to be totally honest, sickening. The entire countryside and every piece of water and land is littered with rubbish. Plastic, paper, tiles, bricks, beer cans and water bottles. Is very concerning to see the huge disregard for the environment and their little piece of this planet. Australia's landscape is absolutely stunning in comparison.
 
Arrived in Santa Marta in reasonably good time (remembering that everything is done in its own good Spanish-time here) and checked in to our (fantastic) hostel. Highly recommend La Guaca. 
 
Walked into the city centre and had dinner on the beach promenade. Jorje being harassed every few minutes by locals selling him every drug available, wanting to polish his shoes (disappointed when they see he's wearing thongs), or trying to sell him a second and third set of sunglasses.
 
Spent the evening packing a super-light day bag for the big hike starting tomorrow. Off to find Cuidad Perdida, the "Lost City" in the Colombian mountains.
 
 

 
 

 

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