Today was another epic day! We left Malealea around 8:00am and took Lesotho A2 (‘the road’) through some amazing country. The people are wonderful – smiling and waving flashing big Pepsodent grins even though we didn’t have room to give them a ride or have sweets for the kids. It’s a photographer’s dream - a new Geo quality shot around every bend. But these are people living their lives and I felt like an intruder so I passed up most – but not all! - of the award winning shots.
Lesotho is a poor country, one of the poorest in southern Africa. Agriculture is the main business but even that is tenuous. Lesotho’s soil is washing away at an alarming rate. Many of the men work in the mines in South Africa and return for one weekend a month. Many return infected with HIV, the scourge of Africa. The cost of AIDS for African nations in the future will be devastating.
Today was Sunday and there were people everywhere, most heading to or from church. They were dressed in their Sunday best, many of the girls in black skirts, white shirts, and black sweaters – maybe the choir? Some of the men wore suits and ties. And everyone in Lesotho walks; old ladies, young mothers with babies on their backs, toddlers, teens ( girls with girls and guys with guys) and men. This in a land where shoes are a luxury. Rather than go barefoot as many youngsters do, many men wear rubber boots. They come in all colors with white or blue being favorites along with the ever popular basic black. Size doesn’t seem to be important, just something to protect the feet. They must be hot and uncomfortable with the long distances involved.
Clothing runs the gambits also. Young children wear either shirts or pants, seldom both. Torn shorts are common and men often wear coveralls in various hues. School girls parade in their uniforms – skirts and sweaters, while their mothers are quite modest in long skirts and t-shirts. The common item is the blanket. It can be worn as a coat, a shawl, to carry a baby, or used as - a blanket! They’re made from homespun wool and while not colorful, have designs featuring maize or geometric patterns.
In our three days in Lesotho excluding Lodge guests, Mick the owner of Malealea Lodge, is the only white we saw in the country. He and his wife have done a lot to help the locals besides encouraging the dancers. He helped set up a craft cooperative and even funds the school. We were glad we met him and we felt privileged to be a guest in this truly wonderful place.
We’re spending the night in back in South Africa at Port Shepstone on the Indian Ocean near Durban. It was getting late and all we could find was ‘suite’ hotel for more than R1,000 per night. It is a the three bedrooms, two bath suite but we got it for R378 because there are only two of us and I begged. After the long day and hundreds of kilometers on dirt roads we deserve it. But from now on we camp.