Wednesday 22nd September - After a comfortable and quiet night in the 007 room at Poonam Haveli
we had a lazy start. Tiredness catching up. Much to see and do here, but first
breakfast. We chose the superb Mawal Haveli. The
rooftop restaurant is beautiful, airy and has a lovely lounge area to look out
over the cityscape. The food was excellent and the guy who served us so
pleasant. We were interested in the design and artwork and the offered to
arrange a meeting with Mr Kailasha, the painter who is famous in Udaipur for
his painting. Whilst we were there we checked out the rooms. All tastefully
decorated and quiet. We might consider moving there soon.
The
first major sight of the day was a visit to Lal Ghat. Today is the finale of
the Ganpati festival, and numerous groups are floating and bathing their Ganesh
statues is ceremony. Pink powder is a factor, and much of it is scattered
everywhere, including anyone passing. Throughout the day it would continue, but
we headed for the Palace.
Rs50
entry plus Rs200 for a camera (same old scam again...more expensive for the
camera than the visitor). There are many superlatives to describe the city
palace, most of which vary on awesome, incredible, humongous. It is the largest
in Rajasthan. Just inside the entrance are 7 arches, which symbolize the 7
maharajas who were weighed and their weight in gold or silver given out to the
locals. Within the palace museum, one room after another of gorgeous detail and
architecture. Some are mirrored to play with the light reflected in the
different colored glass. The external cupolas and balconies are all intricately
sculpted. A romantic fairytale place and a perfect day to explore it.
As
if that wasn't enough...the next on the agenda had to be a boat trip on Pichola
lake. Rs25 entry ticket to the jetty area plus Rs300 each for the ticket. The 1
hour trip around the lake gives a view of the beautiful Lake Palace. They
cannot go too close as it is a privately owned hotel. The main feature of the
trip is a stop at the Jagmandir island and palace. We were thirsty and hungry,
but nothing can prepare for the prices on Jagmandir. 145 rupees for a mineral
water. 500 rupees for a sandwich. I am sure it would be the most awesome
sandwich on the planet, but it would hit your budget hard. I often wonder that
even in high class places, why they pitch all of their prices so high.
Thousands of tourists come through this place every day, and almost nobody buys
even a water. What a loss of business. Even an ice-cream is 250 rupees. The
staff wander around with nothing to do other than to continually shuffle
napkins and knives and forks around to keep themselves busy. Drop the price a
little and they would be gainfully employed all day.
The
Jagmandir gardens are pretty and well manicured. There is an inner area that
non-resident guests cannot access, which is fair enough. Sunset was
approaching, and some openings in the perimeter walling gave a great
perspective as the clouds went through some lovely colour changes.
As well as
shooting Octopussy around the streets of Udaipur, a major
part of the film was done on Jagmandir and at the
lake palace hotel. Around town there are
plenty of opportunities to see the Octopussy movie replayed every night, in
case you cannot remember the scenes.
After
returning to dry land we walked back into town. The whole town is dependent on
tourism, so there is an endless stream of souvenir shops, travel agents or
services from massage to salons. Tonight is the finale of Ganpati, and we saw
from the boat earlier a mass crowd at the main ghat, so aimed there to see what
was happening. The peak of activity had finished, but there were still plenty
of vehicles arriving carrying their Ganesh statue and then performing their
ritual dipping in the lake. It has to be seen to be appreciated. Pink powder
factors a lot in the ceremony, and clouds of powder get randomly thrown in the
air or at people. Music plays and candles are floated on the lake too. It is a
colourful spectacle full of happy atmosphere.
We
were starving after having almost nothing since breakfast, so went for dinner at the highest rooftop in Udaipur old town,
opposite to the Poonam Haveli. As expected, another awesome tantalizing attack
on our taste buds. Down in the streets we could here the Ganpati groups parading
and hammering out their pounding rhythms. The palaces on lake Pichola were now
alight in a romantic shimmering setting. A beautiful night, and an amazing
atmosphere.
Thursday
23rd September - we had decided to move on to the Mewar Haveli today and had
reserved a room last night. Breakfast at the Poonam, which is basic and not as
good as the Mewal, but ok. They had lost an important item of Shiera's
clothing, and we ended up in an argument with them over it. To be honest, the
Poonam could be better than it is. The 007 room we stayed in was a nice
experience, due to its name, although the taps and toilet seat were broken.
They could maintain it better, especially for the price they charge.
Off
to the Mewal Haveli and out to their wonderful rooftop restaurant whilst we
waited for our room to be prepared. The staff here are excellent. Friendly and
easy to deal with. Professional and gracious towards guests. The restaurant as
already mentioned, is excellent. Even beans on toast is an experience, and
probably the best you will find anywhere.
Having
settled into our new room we decided to change plan and just relax today.
Always something to do or place to go. One thing we did want to do though is
the regular Cultural show. Run
every evening from 7pm until 8pm at the Bagore-ki-Haveli by Gangaur ghat. It
gave us enough time take a late lunch. As with most things at the Mewar, even
though the restaurant wasn't due to be open for another 3 hours or more, they
opened it for us. Nothing too much of a problem.
Before
the show, more activities happening at the ghat. This time they had laid
blankets on the ground for people to sit on whilst rituals were being performed
on ornate Palanquins. I guess that this had been going on throughout the day
and we had missed a lot of the event.
The
dance show was good entertainment. Tabla and Harmonium for the main backing,
with most being provided by the dancers. The usual Rajashtani moving rainbow of beautiful coloured sarees
and fancy jewellery as they danced to beating rhythms. Swirling skirts.
Jingling ankle bells, and a few surprises. The finale act was a single lady
dancing whilst stacking pots on her head. Another section was a puppet show.
Friday
24th Sep - Breakfast was interesting. Last night at the Jasmine restaurant on
the other side of the lake, we ordered too much food and ended up with a
Rajasthani pizza left. It is a spicy version of a Calzone pizza mixed with the
appearance of a giant samosa. The hotel restaurant warmed it up for us and it
slipped down a treat with coffee and their special beans on toast. Absolutely
stuffed and no need to eat for the rest of the day.
The
plan was a tuk-tuk tour of a few out of town places. Negotiated 300 rupees for
the whole day and set off to our first stop, the lovely heritage and craft
village of Shilpgram, about 4km west of the old town.
On
the way to Shilpgram it is hard to imagine this area during the regualr drought
season. The lakes are bone dry and the bed is used to play cricket. All of the
'water' features such as the lake palace, can be accessed on foot.
Entrance
fee is Rs30(foreigner) plus Rs30 camera fee. The heritage village was quiet and
we got an excellent guide to talk us around the displays. Recreated from
different parts of India, and some active with crafts people and music or dance
performances. It is government sponsored and different tribal groups and
artisans are brought in throughout the season. Some of those we saw are only
there for 2 weeks, others maybe 4 weeks, before they go home. The first
compound was a small compound filled with desert style buildings from the
Jaisalmer Thar desert regions. Ladies were busy replacing the cow dung and clay
flooring. A messy and smelly business and all done by hand. I hope they wash
their hands before they eat! Ingenious use of the 'raw' material to create
buildings for homes, weaving and even a freezer. Other dislays were closed as
they only open for the heritage show in December. Some of the craft displays included 'Nail
art'...using a finger nail to emboss a design into thick paper. Silk painting.
We were so impressed that we had to buy a painting. And a few textile crafts.
The music and dance performers were friendly although most are ultimately after
some Bakshish for their efforts. We were advised at the entrance to give
nothing extra, as they get paid by the government, but it doesn't stop them
trying. They seemed a grumpy and scowled at us when we walked away without a
'donation'. The guide we had was knowledgable and friendly. Only cost 100
rupees for his time.
Next
stop was the Sakhelion-ki-Bara gardens in the north of the town. 5 rupees
entrance fee. The weather was taking its toll on the gardens and the fountains
weren't working. Some maintenance work was being done, so they didn't look
their best.
Final
destination was Ahar, an interesting burial place where 350 mausoleums for the
Maharajas are located. A sea of onion-domed roofs. There is a sign at the
entrance stating 'No Photography'. However, a little bakshish buys anything
here!
On
the way back to town we drove through the locals market area. It is a wonderful
place of activity. Crafts people making baskets, metalware, carvings, and
spices. We had come with a list of some of the more unusual spices we needed.
Asafoetida, Carom seeds, Nigella seeds, Lemon seeds, Vetivier (caraway), dried
mango powder, You name it, you can buy it here....and more importantly...at
local prices! Bad news...Gulab Jamun again. 4 pieces for 10 rupees, so we
indulged in a rather disgusting 12 pieces. How bad is that...calorie overload!
You
can tell when yu need to take a rest and Udaipur is a perfect place for that.
Not unpacking and repacking luggage every day. We ended the day with room
service delivering dinner and drinks and just watching 'So you think you can
dance' and movies on TV until we fell asleep. And finishing off the Gulab Jamun
we had bought. I felt like my stomach was on overload with the rich food we
have been having. Too much, but hard to resist.
Saturday was a Chillaxing
day to get laundry done, plan the next steps of the journey, and get up to date
with stuff. Laying in the cool matted area in the restaurant looking out at the
beautiful Jagdish temple's Gopurum in one direction, and lake Pichola and the
palaces in the other. It is one of the most perfect rooftop environments to
just relax in. Ahhhhh....
Later
in the day we visited the Jagdish temple. An intricately sculpted temple. Some
interesting Sadhu characters line the entrance steps posing for photos and
hoping for a little bakshish in return. The detail on the temple is awesome and
probably one of the best in the state.
One
of the roads leading away from the Jagdish temple heads towards the locals
bazaar. Almost every craft is represented within the area, and wandering the
streets is a treat. The highlight for is was the fruit and vegetable market,
which is adjacent to the basket and bamboo wares area. An amazing
technicoloured sight of sari intermingled with the most perfect produce
available anywhere.
With
this quality, it is understandable why being vegetarian is a good option here.
We
had dinner at the Kumbha hotel rooftop restaurant, located in the shadow of the
city palace. The nightly sound and light show was playing out (7 to 8 pm).
The
Mewar hotel's owner rang late evening and asked if we wanted to join another
couple tomorrow for a tour to Ranakpur and Kumbalgharh fort. It fitted ok into
our plans and so we agreed.
Sunday
26th September - 9am start for the tour to Kumbalgarh and Ranakpur. Getting out
of Udaipur was a bit manic, but once we were out in the open we were treated to
some wonderful sights along the way. Women carrying large mounds of straw or
sticks on their heads. Multi-coloured swathes of colour along the roads as
groups of women go about their business. Even the guys added to the colour.
Turbans make a statement here. Yellow, orange, pink, blue, multi-coloured. You
name it, someone will be wearing it. Another common sight is jewellery on the
guys as well as face jewellery on the ladies. Large nose rings with gold chains
and jewels linking their ears and nose. There are so many awesome sights that
we couldn't keep stopping the car to take photos or we wouldn't get to our
destination. Ladies working so hard as usual. A very common sight was a group
of sari clad ladies with pick axes or shovels digging trenches of breaking
rocks. Really hard manual labour from ladies dressed like a rainbow. Surreal!
Our
first destination was the awesome Kumbalgarh fort 84km north of Udaipur.
Foreigner Rs100 entry. Built by the Maharana Kumbha in 15th century, it is an
isolated place surrounded by a walled kingdom. Clean and tidy, it is an
incredible sight. No touristy sellers of souvenirs, or pestering touts. Just a
great place to visit and be left alone to wander around. Apart from the fort,
the walled city also contains a couple of temples and a section of wall to walk
along. The weather was very hot and the view superb and clear today. I did
wonder why such a masterpiece was built in such an isolated location, but he
must have had his reasons, other than a large hill with a magnificent view was
waiting for something to be built on it.
We
stopped for lunch at the Harmony restaurant on the way to Ranakpur. A bit of
a scam going on there, as it seemed that all the taxi drivers stopped there. We
entered, asked to see the menu and were told that there was no menu but it was
fixed price buffet at 250 rupees each and we could refill our plates. We
decided to catch them at their game and just filled one plate with as much as
we could, and had a refill too. Another group came in with some Indian people
in it and asked for a menu...and were given one! We looked at the waiter...and
he looked at us...and came over and reminded us that we could refill our
plates. We went over and got the menu, which had meals on it for 60 rupees! We
had a beer which was one of the most expensive since we came to
India...everything had taxes on top. Lunh was nearly 500 rupees with taxes.
With a menu, it would have been half that!
Onwards to Ranakpur. Free entry to the temple,
but another scam. Rs50 camera...each camera. Any extra cameras other than the
one you have a voucher for should be left in a room by the entrance. We had an
argument with the security lady about it. Also, no water allowed in the main
temple and no leather items. The Jain temple was constructed from white marble.
Contains 29 halls, supported by 1444 pillars, with no two the same. It is a
beautiful intricate dediation to their faith. One of India's finest temples.
The journey back was also an experience. The
Gowri people have an incredible way of celebrating. The guys dress up, paint
their faces and decorate themselves with jewellery. We passed many groups on
their way to dances. This is not for tourism, it is their normal way of life.
To witness it is a priviledge. So many things are staged for tourists that it
doesn't feel natural. Passing through these village communities doing what they
do for themsleves is a great experience.
So many sights today and the couple from
Switzerland that we shared the taxi with were nice company. Dinner in the Mewar
Haveli's rooftop restaurant looking at the stars and the beautiful skyline of
Udaipur. It has been a wonderful day.
