Recent days have been busy with odds and ends. The pace is slow here as it is very humid and hot, making everything more of an effort than usual. Been learning a lot from local expat business owners about how things work here. As mentioned in my previous blog, not surprisingly, many aspects of local policy and getting things done involves some form of corruption or scam. Where I am staying used to be part of a naval military base that was divided up when it was closed down amongst three of the commanders, who subsequently built properties on it or sold sections of it to developers. There are 'warlords' in control of everything to some extent and back-handers are normal to buy whatever you want to happen. Labour is cheap and getting the right person to work permanently for you and deal with all of your problems might only cost you $3 a day. Every cambodian is desparate and seems entrepreneurial in trying to find some way of getting money out of you. The problem is that this desperation in some areas has lead to an increase in crime against tourists, with bag snatching and mugging on the increase (at knife-point by gangs) as the numbers of tourists increases rapidly. Almost every day recently I have heard a story of someone being robbed.
Drugs are everywhere and they are very open in approaching you for custom - you name it, they will have it or can get it. Many bars and restaurants offer 'happy (marijuana)' versions of the favourites...happy shakes....happy pizzas....happy cookies. So many spaced out bodies lying around of a night...welcome to the happy farm!
Building is a massive business as new flashy hotels and apartments fill up the prime locations rapidly.
In the next few years, the sea front will have changed dramatically. I hope that the local culture doesn't disappear, to make it all sterile. Evidence of that is easy to find at the beautiful 'Sokha Beach Resort & Spa'. An enormous 5 star complex with every facility to make the guest enjoy being parted from their dollars. The beach is manicured to be perfect clean white sand along with the manicured lawns and service is effortlessly superb. 'Residents only' on their stretch of beach. The locals who live in a normal shanty village not that far away, are kept well away. We spent a while recently looking around and it is an excellent place. Kept on walking along the beach and past the 'sterile' section, and had a great time playing the ukeleles we had brought, with some kids from the village....a sense of normality returned for a while! There are many plans for this type of resort to spread along the coast at the detriment of the less profitable places. The pay-offs that have been made to the higher echelons to make this happen are why it definiely will happen. Cambodia is cashing in on its booming tourist trade big style whilst it recovers from its painfull history! The irony is that the streets seem to be full of big flash lexus or toyota cars as the rich get richer!
Problems have been going recently as the length of time I have been away from the UK grows. My children continue to be an important factor in my life and I seriously miss being part of their lives as they grow up. An involvement that can never be recovered. Talking over the phone periodically and e-mail just isn't enough sometimes. It is very evident from my communications with them that it is affecting them greatly too.
Also, the longer I spend with Victoria, the closer we are becoming and are having a great time together. Something neither of us planned on happening at this point in our lives. Complications. Complications!
One of the organisers at the center is leaving at the end of the week, so we had a nice sundowner gathering on the rooftop of our apartment on sunday evening which went well. Nice group of people, most of whom are leaving soon. It's that kind of place. Foreigners are either passing through, working for an NGO or in the hotel/restaurant business.
Monday 19th March was a bit of a landmark day as I decided to shave my head! Have been thinking about it for a while, so made up my mind to give it a try. Took ages to do as my razors weren't that sharp. Fortunately i'm happy with the result. Only problem is that my hair grows really quick so it will be a chore to keep it like this. Next....getting my ear pierced but oddly enough nobody does it here so will have to wait.
Had to go to the clinic with Victoria today to get an ulcer treated on her leg that had started out a few days ago as a small cut. A simple cut in this type of humid climate, if not properly treated will infect far faster than in a non-humid climate. There are also many types of bugs flying around that feed on blood and pass diseases through open wounds.
Have been deliberating recently over how long to stay here as the next phase of my journey is an exensive loop through Vietnam, China, Japan, maybe Mongolia, Tibet, maybe Myanmar and back to Thailand. Fitting in with Victoria is of major importance as potentially she will be working at the NGO until september. It is likely that I am going to carry on my travels during that time and we can meet up again later. My current visa runs out on 28th march and that isn't long off. I could extend my visa for another month easy enough, but that would just delay setting off. Need to make a decision soon.
Been invited to a wedding tonight and will let you know how that went in the next thrilling installment.
And here it is......
The wedding we had been invited to was at a large hotel not far away. The father of the bride was the owner of the building the NGO we are at is using, hence the invitation. Guests sort of pay for the party, as it is customary to give the parents money in an envelope on arrival. It was quite an experience in many ways.......
Like western weddings, you get greated by a line of bride/groom and family and then find a table to sit at. The women all dressed up in their best frocks and had their hair done with tiaras. Most guys didn't dress up. All food and drink was included and it kept flowing all evening. Toasts to anything are never ending and after a short while you have to start standing up for them with a special form of salutation common here, where you touch your forearm with your spare hand as you clink glasses. The whole room is bobbing up and down all night. When you finish with bottles or cans they get thrown on the floor for the sweepers. Finished food is thrown on the table. Streamers and other party stuff gets added to the equation to make it one big messy occasion. Live entertainment all evening with dry ice puffing everywhere for effect. Early in the evening, the main guests sit while a traditional dance is performed for them. I have never seen a bunch of people looking as bored as they did!
The cutting the cake ceremony was interesting as the bride was so miserable. Later learnt why ....apparently, the bride was a virgin and was panicking about what was expected of her later in the evening! To add further interest, once the main pieces of cake had been cut, the remainder was subject of a bit of a food fight, with guests smearing the cream on each others faces. Had to join in the fun of course! Then the dancing starts!
The cambodians are in two groups when it comes to dancing. They either basically jostle around in a circle and wave their hands around in a rhythmical fashion. Men and women do not touch each other but get as close as they practically can. Or, some guys go slightly nuts dancing with other guys (i'm convinced some where gay). Had an awesome night that finished with adjourning to the beach to listen to some live enertainment over a beer.
My visa runs out on the 28th of march so have decided to go into Vietnam for a month and then China, so went to the consulate in town to get my visa. It must rate as one of the easiest and quickest applications to date. Costs $35 for the standard 30 days and took about 10 minutes to complete (one photo required).
In the evening got a moto to Otres beach for a light meal and to watch the sun set. A really peaceful stretch of beach lined with bamboo huts and bars. The road there is a bit dodgy. They recently bulldozed a fishing village to make way for a new road they are laying, making it fun getting through with three of us on one motorbike. Headed back to serendipity and stopped for another meal at a mexican restaurant with an Apsara dance show on. M'lop Tapang is an NGO started in 2003 that, amonst other things teaches street kids to do traditional khmer dancing and helps them with education. The show was the result of that work and it was lovely to see their confidence. By the way, m'lop is khmer for protection, and Tapang is a tree the homeless kids used to sleep under at night here.
While i'm on the subject....the beachfront is quite an experience here. Children in large numbers ply their trade virtually all day... bracelets in various handmade styles or sarongs....fruit from trays they carry on their heads. Some accompany disfigured or blind beggars, which frequent the beach in large numbers. Very young children scavenge for empty cans or plastic bottles which they collect in big bags on their backs to cash in or trade. Older ones sell shrimps or lobsters from trays on their heads. Many women plod up and down the beach offering massages, manicures, hair removal, braiding etc. It can get a bit overwhelming at times when you want a bit of peace and they are out in full force with their persistent ways. This morning for example, I was having a cup of tea and there were about 5 of them trying to massage my feet, massage my shoulders, trying to persuade me to have the hair removed from my back, buy a bracelet, etc. You meet some wonderful characters amongst them and they are all so happy and fun to meet. Many of the kids come to the painting project, so we know much about them. They are very forward in their attitude, which they have to be and remember anything you say to them. Never promise something that you are not prepared to carry through...they will remember it every time they see you!
