james_tesol_teacher Travels while teaching English in Europe

Vienna is steeped in history and culture, and filled with palaces and buildings that testify to its glory days as the capital of the most powerful region in Europe. The Viennese pride themselves in the beauty of the numerous parks that are located throughout Vienna. And being home to Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss and other musical geniuses, it is the place to be for music lovers. For those wishing to explore its history, culture and beauty - - Vienna couldn’t be easier. Most of the important sites and activities are contained within the compact city center that is circled by the Ringstrausse (Ring Road). The majestic St. Stephen’s Cathedral is right in the center of “tourist” Vienna, making it easy to orient oneself if temporarily lost.

I spent a little over a week in Vienna, and could easily have spent more time because there is so much to do and see. Many of the most importants sites are literally within a few minutes walk of each other. There is a lovely walkway through gardens connecting the many buildings of the Hofburg Palce complex. It only takes about one-half hour to walk from one end of the Ringstrausse to the other. The the clean and efficient public transportation system quickly took me to those sites that were not within easy walking distance of the “Ringstrausse”. I also got a 2 day Hop On/Hop Off Bus ticket that provided street views of important sites, easy access to some must see sites such as the Schonbrunn and Belvedere Palaces, and interesting audio narrative.

In spite of the crowds, travelling during the summer as I did provides an opportunity to become a “temporary” Viennese. One of my highlights was strolling within the many parks, particulary those along the Ringstrausse. The Vienna Woods and vinyards, as well as Danube Island, provided a relaxing opportunity to escape the crowds of the inner city while walking along scenic paths.

As memorable were the nights I spent at the “Vienna Concerts at City Hall”, also known as the Rathaus Film Festival. Thousands of people enjoy these concerts every night. They are shown on a huge (almost 1,000 square foot) screen and a very impressive sound system. Admission is FREE. Local restaurants set up tents to serve a variety of Austrian and worldwide dishes along with drinks of your choice. One evening I saw a Paul McCartney and Wings concert - - incredible, it was like being at the concert. They also feature opera, jazz, ballet and other types of music.

The people of Vienna are more reserved than those in some other cities I visited over the summer (Krakow, Prague and Budapest for instance). But they were more than willing to help out if asked. The staff at the local Tourist Information Office near the Opera House were very helpful in providing information and tips. I liked the non-auto pathways along the Ringstrausse - - there was one side for pedestrians and the other side was for bicyclists; my fears of getting hit by a speeding bicyclist (a major fear in Krakow) were eliminated. Reserved but creative and ready to enjoy life perhaps best sums up the Viennese spirit.

I referenced several sources before travelling to Vienna, including: Rick Steves’ Vienna-Salzburg & Tirol, Frommer’s Europe, Rough Guide’s Europe on a Budget, Lonely Planet-Europe on a Shoestring, Europe by Eurail and Let’s Go Europe (all books), as well as Rick Steves’ Europe PBS Television Show (available on DVD) and Dennis Callan on YouTube. Even though I enjoyed all of them, I found Rick Steves’ material the most informative and thorough with the bonus of offering many tips and “off the beaten path” options.  

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Vienna. My pictures were taken with an inexpensive Nikon camera; because it was limited, some of the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org; where I used their pictures, I have cited the author.

• State Opera: This opulent landmark was heavily damaged in World War II and much of it was redesigned when reconstructed. The Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra recruits its members from the orchestra of the State Opera. I bought a ticket for the 45-minute guided tour—€6.50. Because the major orchestras are not in Vienna during the summer, I was not able to see a performance here.
• Hofburg Palace and Royal Apartments – The Imperial Palace is located just a 3 minute walk from the Opera House. This stately palace was once home to some of the most powerful rulers in Europe, including Marie Antoinette’s mother Empress Maria Theresa. In addition to the Imperial Palace, there are many buildings within the Hofburg Palace complex. The displays of porcelain, gold and silver used for formal dinners is incredible. The apartments were both grand and functional; the last emporer, Franz Josef, did much of his work here.
• Palce Gardens - A pleasant stretch of parkland, statues, grass and walkways that offer a nice place to relax. The walkways also connect the various buildings within the complex.
• Kunsthistorisches Museum (Musuem of Art) - a fine art museum housed in a palatial building behind the Hofburg Palace. Artwork is by Titian, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, other European masters.
• Heroes’ Square (Heldenplatz) – Impressive entry way into the Hofburg Palace complex. Many important historical events have taken place here.
• Augustinian Church – A beautiful Gothic church that was the site of royal functions. It is a 2 minute walk from the Hofburg Imperial Palace going back torward the Opera House. I attended church service on Sunday – the organ music and choir were wonderful.
• St. Stephen’s Cathedral – Originally built in the Gothic style in the14^th century, this massive church is one of Vienna’s most enduring symbols. Its south tower is 445 feet high. The colorful tiled roof is a marvel. The views from the south tower are amazing. It is easy to consume a few hours here given the size and history stored witin, so I had to keep an eye on the time. It is at the center of Vienna’s historic old town.
• St. Charle’s Church (Karlskirsche) – Wonderful Baroque church with a magnificent fresco in the dome. You can take an elevator ride up to the 235 foot high dome, although I did not do this.
• Belvedere Palace (Schloss Belvedere) – Public transportation (or my Hop On/Hop Off tour ticket) is necessary to get here as it is quite a distance from the Ringstrausse. In addition to being a magnificent Baroque palace (actually 2), the Belvedere is a wonderful art gallery housing 19^th and early 20^th century art including an extensive collection by Gustav Klimt (including “The Kiss”). I toured the “Upper Palace” and the gardens. In some ways, the palace is grander than the royal Imperial Palace at Hofburg.
• Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schonbrunn) – not wanting to be upstaged by the Belvedere palace, the Schonbrunn is (aside from Versailles) the grandest European palace according to many. This summer residence of the Austrian royalty is a massive complex with over 1,400 rooms. The gardens and grounds are as spectacular as the palace. I took the grand tour that included Franz Josef’s apartments, his wife Sisi’s apartments and the apartments of the grand royal of them all – Maria Theresa. Since this is on the outskirts of Vienna, public transportation (or my Hop On/Hop Off tour ticket) is necessary to get here as it is quite a distance from the Ringstrausse.  
• City Hall Open-Air Concert Films and Food Circus (Rathaus Film Festival 2013) – Vienna knows how to use its public spaces. Every evening during the summer, a concert film is shown at the magnificent City Hall (Rathuas). Thousands of people enjoy a concert shown on a huge (almost 1,000 square foot) screen and a very impressive sound system. Admission is FREE. Local restaurants set up tables to serve a variety of Austrian and worldwide dishes along with drinks of your choice. I visited twice during my stay. One evening I saw a Paul McCartney and Wings concert - - incredible, it was like being at the concert. They also feature opera, jazz, balet and other types of music.A thriving people scene erupts each evening in
• Mozarthaus – According to Rick Steves, this is the only apartment where Mozart lived that is still standing. He also said that the exhibits are “dry” and I agree. However, to have stepped into an apartment where Mozart lived is incredible so I’m glad I went. The audio guide does present some interesting information about his life.
• Musikverein – The famous concert hall near the Ringstrausse that is home to the Vienna Philhamonic Orchestra. In addition to being a feast for the eyes, the acoustics in the main concert hall (Golden) are supposed to be among the best in the world. I took a guided tour and was able to see all of the rooms, including the several rehearsal and performance halls. This is the home of the famous New Years Eve Holiday Show on PBS (in the Gold Hall). Because the major orchestras are not in Vienna during the summer, I was not able to see a performance here.
• St. Peter’s Church (Peterskirche) – A beautiful Baroque church dating back to the early 18^th century. It is located in central Vienna. The interior is very ornate and contains some famous paintings, fresco and statues. The guilded altarpiece and organ are fabulous.
• Stadtpark (City Park) – I tried to visit as many parks in Vienna as possible because Vienna is noted for its parks. A large portion of the city is turned over to Vienna’s parks. The Stadtpark is Vienna’s major park, and it is located on the Ringstrausse. It has ponds, gardens, statues. One of the statues is the famous bronze statue of Johann Strauss II, located just inside one of the main entrances.
• Danube Island (Donauinsel) – I took an easy metro ride that took me right to Danube Island. A local escape from the city, it is often filled with sun bathers, bike riders, walkers, and joggers on the weekend. When I visited during a weekday morning, it was quiet with only a few bikeriders, joggers and locals walking their dogs amid the  tranquil beauty. I spent about 90 minures walking and admiring the island and the views of Vienna. Although I did not do this, it is easy to bike the entire island as it is only about 13 miles long and a few hundred feet wide.
• A Walk in the Vienna Woods (Wienerwald) - I took the U-4 subway line to Heiligenstadt and then bus #38A to nearby Kahlensberg, a hill overlooking Vienna and offering some great views. (Kahlenberg is the site of a meeting between Albert Einstein and other prominent scientists to discuss the creation of an encyclopedia of scientific knowledge.) After walking around the hill, I hopped back on bus #38A and rode bit further away from the city to Leopoldsberg, a larger hill for some more beautiful views of Vienna. On the way the bus went through lovely Grinzing. Once in Leopoldsberg, I enjoyed the views and took the path (downhill) toward Grinzing. The walk through the woods and vinyards was very nice. I met some locals walking and jogging, and saw some vineyard workers. Other than that, I just enjoyed the lovely views and sounds of nature. Once in Grinzing, I walked through a couple of beautiful neighborhoods and then went to the bus stop in Grinzing to take Bus #38 back to Vienna. It was a lovely way to spend an afternoon. A Vienna bus ticket (or other public transportation ticket) is all that’s needed to get to Leopoldsberg – my hotel told me it would not, but the local Tourist Information Office confirmed that it would.
• Wine Gardens (Heuriger) – After my walk through the vinyards, I ate at a wine garden. Vienna is noted for its wine gardens (restaurants) where local food (often buffet style) is served with Vienna’s newly bottled wine. The taste of the wine brought me back to my college days where wine was not always the most palatable. A great variety of food was offered; I just pointed to what I wanted, and my excellent server provided me with a large portion. I ate in a very beautiful outdoor dining area. The setting was beautiful. Many Heuriger are located near the Vienna Woods. The wine garden I visited was near Beethovenhaus in the Nussdorf section of Vienna, an easy Tram Ride (#D) from the State Opera.
• Beethovenhaus – A house where it is believed Beethovern MAY have lived while he summered in the Vienna Woods. It was interesting to tour the museum, though a bit disappointing to read upon exiting that he may never have lived here. There is a lock of his hair and a death mask on exhibit.
• There was a Laundromat near my hotel, so I could do my laundry prior to heading off to Salzburg. I found that going to the Laundromat is a good way to meet locals and find out more about the city.

I enjoyed my time in Vienna. It is home to fine coffee houses and pastries, great parks, palaces and museums. St. Stephen’s cathedral and most of its sites are within the easily walkable Ringstrausse. The public transportation system is efficient and easy to use, quickly getting to places outside the city center. My big regret - I wish I had visited the town of Melk (between Vienna and Salzburug on the Danube) and toured the Melk Abbey. Perhaps next time.