james_tesol_teacher Travels while teaching English in Europe

Prague is a magical city that has deep historical roots nestled within a vibrant, friendly, modern city. It was the third largest city in Medieval Europe and was one of the most powerful cities in Central Europe; its king (Charles IV) was not only king of Bohemia but he was also Holy Roman Emperor as well. It is one of the few major European cities that escaped major destruction in World War II. When you marvel at its historic districts, you’re looking at the original structures – not rebuilt as in other cities such as Vienna. It’s an ideal stop for those interested in seeing original architecture from a number of periods. Prague historically has been one of the major cultural centers in Europe; in fact Mozart fell in love with the city and premiered his opera Don Giovanni at the Estates Theatre in Prague. I spent about a week in Prague in the summer of 2013. More than any of the other half dozen destinations in 4 countries I visited that summer, Prague stands out as the first one I wish to revisit because there is so much to see and do and the people are so friendly. The fact that it is much less expensive to visit is a bonus. The weather, mainly sunny with a few clouds and temperatures in the 70s was wonderful during my stay; people told me that it had been in the 90s and humid in the 2 weeks before my stay.

Prague can be a confusing city, because its history and tourist sites are spread throughout many parts of the city. There is the Castle District (Hradčany), Lesser Town (Malá strana), Old Town (Staré město), New Town (Nové město), and the Jewish Quarter (Josefov). Because so many people speak English and they are so friendly, it is easy to ask directions of many people on the street. And the public transportation system is well connected, inexpensive, efficient and clean. Prague is divided in two by the Vltava River, with the Castle District and Lesser Town on the left bank of the river and the Old Town, New Town (it is new only in relation to the older “Old” Town) , and Jewish Quarter on the right bank of the Vltava. The two sides are connected by the ever popular Charles Bridge. The Vltava river, Charles Bridge and the Castle help to orient you as you wander Prague’s streets.

 Unfortunately, the secret of Prague’s beauty, affordability and charm are making it an increasingly popular tourist destination. The crowds in the Castle, Old Town and particularly on Charles Bridge can seem overwhelming at times. According to many travel publications, Prague attracts about 4 million tourists a year, and most of these arrive in the summer months. Another caution: it is said that there are many pickpockets (especially on the heavily touristed public transit trams and buses), scams and dishonest cab drivers in Prague. I did not experience any of this, but many of the travel publications warn tourists of this.

 I referenced several sources before travelling to Prague, including: Rick Steves’ Eastern Europe, Frommer’s Europe, Rough Guide’s Europe on a Budget, Lonely Planet-Europe on a Shoestring, Europe by Eurail and Let’s Go Europe (all books), as well as Rick Steves’ Europe PBS Television Show (available on DVD) and Dennis Callan on YouTube. Even though I enjoyed all of them, I found Rick Steves’ material the most informative and thorough.  

 The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Prague. My pictures were taken with an inexpensive Nikon camera. Some of the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org (able to offer angles and panoramas that my camera cannot); where I used their pictures, I have cited the author.

 Because the city is so spread out, I took advantage of one of the Hop On/Hop Off bus tours; a two day ticket cost about $30 and includes an audio transcript in English and other languages of the sites as you pass them.  I also used public transportation throughout my stay; I never used a taxi. My particular HopOn/Hop Off tour included a lovely river cruise as well.

• Old Town (Staré město) and near the Old Town
  • Charles Bridge (Karlův most) – The best time to enjoy the bridge is early in the morning before crowds descend on it. Enjoy the towers, statues and views along the 1,700 foot long bridge that connects the two sides of Prague. During the daytime, it is crowded with tourists, artists and street performers.
  • Klementinum - Eastern Europe’s largest library and one of its largest building complexes, it currently houses the Czech National Library. Very lovely library, more so than at the Strahov Monastary (another Jesuit order) I thought. During the medieval period it was the site of a Jesuit monastery where some of the greatest learning took place. It later became noted for its scientific work and astronomical observatory. Concerts often take place here. Wonderful views of Prague from the Astronomical Tower.
  • Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) is the historical market square dating back to the 11^th century. In spite of the crowds it can take you back 600 years. Now there are musicians, street performers, musicians and tourist venders packed among the many historical sites. There are a variety of architectural types including: gothic, renaissance, baroque and rococo.
    • Jan Hus Monument – before there was Martin Luther, there was Jan Hus speaking out about the corruption and abuses of the Catholic Church. For his troubles, he was burned at the stake in 1415. This statue dominates one end of the square.
    • Old Town Hall (Staroměstská radnice) – Seat of the municipal government when Prague became unified in the late 18th century. Its tower contains the popular Astronomical Clock. Beautiful views of the city from the top of the tower.
    • Astronomical Clock (Pražský orloj) - One of the most visited sites in Prague, it dates back to the early 15^th century and is the oldest working Astronomical Clock in the world according to many.
  • Týn Church (Týnský chrám) – A feature of the Old Town since the 15^th century, this Gothic church’s beautiful spires dominate the skyline in this part of the city.
  • Municipal House (Obecní dům) - Constructed in the Art Nouveau style in the early 20th century, it serves as a concert hall and civic building. Many believe this to be one of the most stunning examples of Art Nouveau construction in Europe. The interior is very ornate. A magnificent marble staircase leads to Smetana Hall, home of the largest concert hall (along with the Rudolfinum's Dvořák Hall) in Prague and some of the finest acoustics in the region. I saw a lovely concert in Smetna hall by the Prague Royal Orchestra.
  • Church of St. James (Kostel Sv. Jakuba) –Gorgeuous interior and marvelous pipe organ. Some believe it is the most beautiful Baroque church in the Old Town. Houses the tomb of Count Vratislav of Mitrovice who was accidently buried alive when he fell unconscious and appeared dead.
  • The Estate’s Theatre (Stavovské divadlo) – constructed in the late 18^th century. Shortly after it opened, Mozart Premiered “Don Giovanni” here. Of course, it made sense that some of the scenes from the movie “Amadeus” were shot here also. It is claimed to be the only existing theatre in which Mozart performed. The interior is lush and magnificently restored and was a sumptuous venue for seeing Mozart opera arias one evening during my stay.
  • Havel’s Market (Havelská trziste) - Colorful open-air market that used to be the city center’s main market for fruits and vegetables, although now it houses many souvenir shops as well.
• Jewish Quarter (Josefev) – This quarter is surrounded by the Old Town, and was the site of the Jewish Ghetto. Prague had one of the oldest Jewish communities in Europe, dating back to the 1200’s. There is a rich and often tragic history associated with Josefev; as was the case in many European cities, Jewish people were banned from living anywhere but the ghetto. I believe that Rick Steves says it is the best collection of Jewish sights in Europe. I bought a discount ticket that allows entry into most of the historic sites.
  • Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova Synagóga) – As a memorial to the almost 80,000 Czech Jews during the Holocaust, the names of each victim is handwritten on the wall. Seeing the row upon row of names is almost mind numbing. There is a very evocative art exhibit displaying the drawings of children imprisoned at the Nazi’s Terezin concentration camp; these children all perished at the hands of the Nazis.
  • Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov) – It is Europes oldest Jewish Cemetery dating back at least as far back as the 15th century. The tombs are laid one on top of another due to the limited space. Some estimate the number of dead buried here at 100,000.
  • Old-New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga) – Built in the 13th century in the Gothic style, it is the oldest active Synagogue in Europe. I bought a ticket for a guided tour of this building and the Old Jewish Cemetery. The synagogue houses many Jewish religious artifacts and also has a room displaying the tragic events as the Nazis invaded the ghetto and imprisoned its citizens.
  • Spanish Synagogue (Španělská Synagóga) – This appears to be constructed in an Islamic style, with the interior covered with beautiful and intricate patterns. An exhibit upstairs traces the history of Josefev during the 1900’s with photos and exhibits. Particularly moving are the stories and photos of the Jewish experience after 1931. Also on display are the valuable silver items stolen by the Nazis when the ghetto was depopulated.
  • Rudolfinum - One of Prague's premier music venues, it sits on the banks of the Viltava River and is built in the neo-Renaissance style. According to music lovers, it is appreciated for its wonderful acoustics. I did not attend a concert here, but based on my discussions with others, a concert here may have been better than at Municipal House or the Estates Theatre (where I did attend concerts).
• New Town (Nove Mesto) and nearby – New Town is not so new, having been first planned in the mid 14^th century. It is only new in comparison to the “Old Town”.
  • Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí) – The scene of many historic events, including protests following the invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviets in 1968 and the demonstrations during the Velvet Revolution in 1989. It is named after Saint Wenceslas (referred to as a “King” in the Christmas carol, he was really only a Duke). Currently it feels more like a Boulevard with streets enclosing a pedestrian-only walkway in the center of the square. It is an immense space, once home to the city’s Horse Market. At the upper end is a statue of Wenceslas and beyond that the magnificent National Museum building.
    • National Museum (Národní muzeum) – Constructed in the latter part of the 19^th century in the neo-Renaissance style, it had been heavily damaged during the 20^th century. You can still see where Soviet bullets hit the building during their 1968 invasion. It was also damaged during World War II. It is currently closed for restoration work. The grand entrance leads into an interior that is decorated with frescos, statues and marble staircases (I was able to “tour” the building even though it is closed because the entrance is open because there are some events that take place in the lower floors).
    • St. Wenceslas Statue (Svatováclavský Socha) – Wenceslas (a duke, not a king) is decked out in full armor and astride his horse. He was killed by his brother’s associates and is considered a martyr. Beneath him at the foot of the monument are statues representing 4 saints, including his grandmother Ludmilla.
    • Melantrich Building - On the balcony Alexander Dubček and Václav Havel addressed crowds (perhaps as many as 300,000) during the Velvet Revolution in November 1989.
  • Alfons Mucha Museum – Celebrates the life and works of the artist. Many of his works are contained here, including posters that were often used in advertising campaigns. There were primarily two styles represented - - the slinky sexy woman, often part of theatre advertisements, and a later period of Czech nationalism. He also designed the stained glass window behind the altar in St. Vitus Cathedral. Possibly his most famous work is the Slav Epic housed in the National Gallery.
  • Charles Square (Karlovo Náměstí) - Prague’s largest square is covered by lawns, trees, and statues of Czech writers. It may have been the largest town square in Medieval Europe, and remains one of the world’s largest squares. Originally used as the Cattle Market. It was founded in the mid-14^th century by King Charles of Bohemia (who later become Holy Roman Emperor).
  • Prague State Opera  (Státní opera Praha) – At the time of its construction in the late 19^th centruy, the State Opera building was one of the most beautiful theatres in Europe. Originally called the New German Theatre, and later Smetana Theatre, it was renamed the Prague State Opera after the Velvet Revolution in 1989.
• Castle District (Hradcany) and nearby
  • Castle Complex
    • Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)– Kings of Bohemia, Holy Roly Emporers and Czech leaders have ruled from here. According to the Guinness book of World Records, it is the largest ancient castle in the world. It dates back to the 9^th century.
    • St. Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála svatého Víta) – This Gothic church is the largest church in the Czech Republic Marvel at the stained glass behind the altar created by Alfos Mucha. This is the final resting place of St. Wenceslas (the “good King” from the Christmas song).
    • St. George’s Basilica (Bazilika Sv. Jiří) – This Romanesque church was originally built in the 10^th century. It is the oldest surviving church within the castle complex. It houses the remains of some important figures from Prague’s past, as well paintings of significance to the Czech people.
    • Lobkowicz Palace (Lobkowiczký palác) – Originally built in the 16^th century, it is privately owned (the only privately owned property in the castle complex) and currently run by the Lobkowicz family (descendents of the 1^st Prince Lobkowicz). Excellent audio guide allows visitors to explore the history of Prague through their collection and family history. In addition to the largest privately owned collection of paintings in the Czech Republic, there is an extensive musical collection including original scores by Mozart and Beethoven. According to the audio, the Lobkowicz family were major patrons of Mozart and especially Beethoven. My visit was one of the highlights of my trip to Prague.
    • Golden Lane (Zlatá ulička) – Housed many of the servants and workers within the castle complex. Provides insight into the architectural style of the homes used by ordinary workers. 
    • Royal Gardens – These enjoyable gardens are somewhat hidden outside the castle walls, with the main entrance on U Prašného mostu Street. After the crowds of the castle, I enjoyed the quiet, green and cool surroundings of the garden – there were not many people here at all. In the gardens you’ll find many sculptures, graceful lawns, beautiful gardens, many species of trees, fountains, the Presidential Palace (Domeček) and Queen Anna’s Summer House (Letohrádek královny Anny).
  • Strahov Monastery (Strahovský klášter) and Library – The Monastery was originally founded in the 12th century. It is not far from the castle complex and can be reached by taking a road downhill from the castle. The beautiful library can only be seen from the doorway; if you want to take pictures you have to pay for the privilege. After your visit, for the price of a glass of wine or a beer, you can enjoy wonderful views of Prague at one of the outdoor tables at the Bella Vista Restaurant on the Strahov Monastary grounds.
  • Sternberg Palace (Šternberský palác) - The National Gallery old European Baroque Collection is housed in this former Baroque palace. I believe the second floor is the more interesting because it houses paintings from the European masters of the 16^th to 18^th centuries. I was a bit disappointed in the art collection but enjoyed the tour of the magnificent building.
• Lesser Town (Mala Strana)
  • Wallenstein Palace Garden (Valdštejnská zahrada)– Located at the former Baroque palace that now houses the Czech Senate, it is a calm and restful place to escape from the bustle of Prague. Modeled on the gardens of Italy. Wander with the peacocks while enjoying the gardens, lawns, and surroundings in this quiet refuge.
  • Church of St. Nicholas (Kostel svatého Mikuláše) - Gorgeous Baroque church, many consider it to be one of the finest Baroque churches in central Europe. Stunning, beautiful, huge interior and striking exterior.
  • Petrˇín Tower – Walk up or take the funicular to the top to enjoy the walk among the trees and gardens. Capped by a miniature Eiffel Tower and surrounded by trees, it soars 400 feet above the town. This is a quiet oasis with commanding views of Prague from the top.
  • Kampa Island (Na Kampě) - Take the Castle Walkway down to this peaceful, Venice-like island on the Vltava River. From the Charles Bridge (as you walk from the Lesser Town to the Old Town), take the staircase on the right down to the island. My time here was a very peaceful contrast to the crowds on Charles Bridge just a short walk away. Enjoy a stroll and sit on a bench shaded by the lovely trees and enjoy the views of Charles Bridge and the Vltava River.
• Cruising the Vltava – One of the benefits of my HopOn-HopOff city tour was a river cruise. This is truly the way to see Prague in all of its splendor, from the Castle and Kampa Island to the Charles Bridge and the spires of the Old Town.