james_tesol_teacher

Nice, France and the Riviera

james_tesol_teacher — Thu, 22 May 2014 21:37:00 GMT

When I visited in late March, the weather was great, generally temperatures in the 60s to mid 70s during the day. Some locals told me that the weather has been changing – January was quite rainy, unusual they say because Nice is noted as having 300 sunny days per year. The forecast for the several days I was there was for rain – fortunately it only rained one day, and almost every day started off sunny and most days stayed sunny for much of the day. Prior to my arrival there were some very heavy rains.

Nice is fairly inexpensive relative to other French destinations I’m told. Transportation is very inexpensive with buses taking you to many points between Cannes and Monaco for about $2.00 (one way). Trains are fairly inexpensive, about $18.00 round trip to Bordighera, Italy. There are several cafes, sandwich shops and grocery stores offering inexpensive meal items. Several budget hotels are found between the train station and Place Massena. All Museums except the Chagall and Russian Cathedral are free. Nice is very cosmopolitan – in addition to the native French, there are many Africans and Arabs – I met some people from Prague who are studying in Nice.

Because Nice is such a central location and is inexpensive, it is a great location from which to explore towns and villages across the Riviera. It is only about 30 miles to Cannes; there are seveal buses and trains each day between the two cities. In the opposite (easterly) direction, Bordighera Italy 31 miles can easily be reached by train as well.There are several beautiful towns and villages between both of these cities, including: La Turbie, Monaco, St-Paul-de-Vence, Antibes, Villefranche sur Mer, Eze-le-Village, SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT, and Ventimiglia, Italy. I visited all of these except for Antibes and La Turbie. Hopefully I'll return and will visit these two at that time.

I referenced several sources before travelling to Nice and the surrounding French and Italian Riviera. These include: Rick Steves’ France Guide, Frommer’s Europe, Rough Guide’s Europe on a Budget, Lonely Planet-Europe on a Shoestring, Europe by Eurail and Let’s Go Europe (all books), as well as Rick Steves’ Europe PBS Television Show (available on DVD) and Dennis Callan on YouTube. Even though I enjoyed all of them, I found Rick Steves’ material the most informative and thorough with the bonus of offering many tips and “off the beaten path” options.

Prior to arriving, I read that the French are somewhat arrogant and impatient of tourists, particularly those that do not speak French. I found that not to be the case everywhere I visited. At the hotel, all the staff were friendly. Each town I visited had Tourist Information Offices that offered maps and descriptions of attractions; the staff were friendly and patient.

Because my pictures were taken with an inexpensive Nikon camera, some of the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org; where I used their pictures, I have cited the author.

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Nice Nice and the surrounding French and Italian Riviera.

Try to stay near: Between Place Massena and the train station or along Avenue Jean Medecin that connects the train station with Place Massena. From here you will have easy access to the Old Town and the Promenade des Anglais and points along the Mediterranean. Why:

Many buses travelling between Cannes and Monaco arrive/leave at the bus station between Boulevard Jean Jaurès and Avenue Félix Faure (near Place Masséna)
It is a direct walk (after turning the corner from the train station) between the train station and the Medittiterranean along Avenue Jean Medecin.

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was on the Riviera.

Massena Museum – housed in the opulent family estate near the seafront. Free. Closed Tuesday
Nice Opera – performances September to May http://www.opera-nice.org/
Vieux Nice (Old Town)
- Cours Saleya - Has been Nice’s main market square for hundreds of years.
- Down the center of Cours Saleya, near the La Cambuse restaurant is the famous socca queen Thérèse. She’s cooking socca, Nice’s chickpea crêpe specialty (until about 13: 00).
- Continuing down Cours Saleya is a golden building where Henri Matisse spent many years with a brilliant view onto Nice’s world.
- Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation is a small baroque church dedicated to St. Rita, a favorite patron saint of desperate of Nice.
- Palais Lascaris (c. 1647, gorgeous at night), a former estate from a prominent old Nice family. Interesting Baroque Italian architecture and collection of antique musical instruments— free entry.
- Place Rossetti: Bustling Italian influenced square with lots of eateries and people. The popular Fenocchio gelato shop is here.
- Cathedral of St. Réparate—Named after Nice’s patron saint, a teenage virgin named Réparate. Legend says her martyred body floated to Nice in the fourth century accompanied by angels .
- Castle Hill is near the Cathedral of St. Réparate up the steep walkway. It is between the Port and Vieux Nice. There are remnants of the old fort, a beautiful park and lovely views.
Promenade des Anglais is an approximately four-mile-long seafront walkway along the Mediterranean on the opposite side of the Place Massena from the Vieux Nice and the Port.
- Hôtel Negresco —Nice’s finest hotel is also a historic monument, offering up the city’s most expensive beds
- Bay of Angels (Baie des Anges) — Lots of benches along the walkway so you can enjoy looking at the turquoise and blue water and all the action. Or you can rent chairs on the beach. From here you can see Castle Hill and Villefranche-sur-Mer.
- Albert 1er Park —Former private gardens of the Belgian King. A statue at the edge of the park commemorates the 100-year anniversary of Nice’s union with France.
- Masséna Museum (Musée Masséna) —Named after Jean-André Masséna, a commander during France’s Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars. The mansion and grounds are beautiful. There is some lovely artwork and other exhibits. Price is free.
Russian Cathedral (Cathédrale Russe) —Nice has a large number of Russians, so they built a large Orthodox church in which to worship. Cost is free. It’s about a 10 minute walk from the train station.
Place Garibaldi , the crossroads of the old town and new town
Place Massena – the main square of Nice, that is at the edge of Vieux Nice and Albert 1er Park
Matisse Museum Small but worthwhile collection. Housed in a beautiful Mediterranean mansion set in an olive grove amid the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Cemenelum.
Chagall Museum – one of the few museums that have a price for admission.
Fine Arts Museum ( Musée des Beaux-Arts) —Located a bit of a distance from other sites, it is located in a Riviera villa with lovely gardens, this museum holds 6,000 artworks from the 17th to 20th centuries; the collection may be a bit of a disappointment but the building and grounds are lovely. As with most museums, it is free.
Fabulous Opera House (Opéra de Nice) reputed to have inexpensive performances in this beautiful building.
Mont-Boron forestal park ROUTE FORESTIÈRE DU MONT BORON (K6) trails and a Botanical garden in this Mediterranean forest. From the Mont-Alban Fort at the top of the his, enjoy views along the French and even into Italy. Take The 30-min jorney from Nice center on bus no.14.

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The following represent the nearby cities and towns that are generally within an hour train or bus ride from Nice. Buses are cheap, 1.5 euro (about $2.00) one way

Monaco – take Bus #100, then walk or take local buses to see the sites. The principality of Monaco consists of three distinct tourist areas : Monaco-Ville , Monte Carlo, and La Condamine.
- Monte-Carlo Casino
- Oceanographic Museum
- Prince’s Palace, built on the site of an old Italian fort.
- Monaco Cathedral – burial location of royalty, including Princess Grace.
- Jardin Botanique , lovely garden with more fine
St-Paul-de-Vence – a lovely medieval hill town with buildings from the 15th and 16th century. It is historic, clean, compact and good views from parts of town. This hill town is set high above the Riviera. The walled city has one main street and not a lot of side streets. Take Bus #400 that drops you about a 10-minute walk to the town center.
Villefranche sur Mer– small peaceful town reached using bus #100 from Nice. The old town is about a 10 minute walk from the bus station.
- Citadel—The town’s Italian castle was built to defend against the French.
- A seaside walkway under the citadel connects the old town with the harbor (Port de la Darse).
Eze-le-Village– take bus #82 or #112 to get to this very touristy but extremely lovely and historic place. Well preserved medieval hilltop town overlooking the Mediterranean. Beautiful narrow streets lead you around and up past magnificent stone buildings, many with lovely gardens, shops and floral decorations. George Sands and Fredrich Nietzche wrote here. When you’re done visiting Eze-le-Village, take the trail just beyond the entrance down to the town of Eze-Bord-de-Mer. It descends about 1,300 feet to the sea offering many lovely views. It takes about 30 to 45minutes. Once in Eze-Bord-de-Mer, you can catch a bus or train to all destinations between Nice and Monaco.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat – another lovely village that is home to the wealthy of the French Riviera. It is especially noted for the exceptional Ephrussi De Rothschild Villa and Gardens, a highlite of my trip. I was fortunate to have an exceptionally clear day with no humidity while I was here. The staff are very friendly. Once done visiting the mansion and gardens, you can wonder around looking at the lovely homes on their well-manicured lots. There is a path nearby that allows a walk along the sea and mansions; because of recent heavy rains just prior to my arrival, several locals said the walk-way was not safe due to the possibility of a land-slide.
Cannes – Because it is easily reached from Nice by inexpensive train, there is no need to stay at the expensive hotels in Cannes. The train station is just a few blocks from La Croisette, and Le Suquet is located at the western end of La Croisette. So much of Cannes is easily accessible from the train station.
- Le Suquet – the area high above the port that contains the fort and the church of Notre Dame de l'Espérence. These date back to the 12trh and 17th centruries. The views from Le Suquet are very nice.
- La Croisette – the walkway along the shore takes you past the beach, gardens, marinas, and beautiful scenery.
- Louis Lumiere Exhibition Hall were the Film Festival takes place every year is located at the center of La Croisette
- Admiring the beauty of the architecture and people watching (notice all the expensive cars and shops).
Bordighera Italy – It is renowned for its beautiful coastal scenery, so it is no wonder that Monet lived here and did many paintings here. Walking into the city and up the hill, I found beautiful homes, mansions and views. Bordighera is on the main railway line between Genoa and France (about 1 ¼ hour from Nice). When you get off the train, the seaside Promenade will be directly in front (the sea is within view). The “hill town” of course is on the opposite side of the station. Train fare is about $20.00 round trip.
Ventimiglia, Italy can be reached by the SNCF (the french railway company) train that also passes through Monaco. Ventimiglia is located at the terminus of the coastal railway line that runs between Nice and Monaco (50 minutes from Nice). The adult fare from Nice is aboutr $10 for adults. Ventimiglia is the train connection to continue on to Bordighera, so it is possible to do both cities in one (long) day while paying only for the train ticket to Bordighera. Ventimiglia has a sort of undiscovered feel, as if the ancient buildings and pasta shops run by generations of families have escaped the passage of time and the glare of notoriety
- Don’t go on Friday as it is busy due to the Friday market.
- The "new" town center and shoreline are an easy walk toward the south from the terminal. The original/historic section is across the river to the west...also an easy walk.
- Sitting on steep sea cliffs, the medieval old town served as the fortified city centre through the 1800s. Today, it is a beautiful and architecturally unusual historical site. There are four churches in the steep, winding streets – one of which, the Church of San Michele, just off of the main road via Garibaldi, is more than 1,000 years old.
- Because pastis and the food is much cheaper here than in France, you can splurge a bit. Head towards the Roya river that separates the modern part of town (where the train station is) and the older medieval section, known as “Piazza”, on top of the hill for an inspiring walk and beautiful views.

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One place that I wanted to see but did not is “La Turbie”, between Nice and Monaco. Some guidebooks say it is within walking distance of Monaco. I’ll have to see that if I ever return. The main site is “La Trophee des Alpes, Agustus Caesars monument to his conquest of the area. Great views of all of Monaco. Closed Monday. According to the guide books, there are great views, very few tourists and a great restaurant with low prices: La Terrasse (14 euro plats du jour).

Take bus T-66 from Nice’s Pont St. Michel stop (5-7 per day, 45 minutes, last bus returns to Nice at 16:00). In Nice, take the tram to the Pont St. Michel stop.
From La Turbie to Monaco, bus #114 (6/ day Mon-Sat, 5/ day Sun, 30 minutes). La Turbie’s bus stop is across from the post office (PTT) on Place Neuve (to reach La Trophée des Alps from here, walk 5 minutes around the old village, with the village on your right).
From Monaco, bus #100 connects to Nice (4/ day Mon-Sat, 3/ day Sun, 50 minutes).

Photos: Nice and the Riviera

james_tesol_teacher — Thu, 22 May 2014 10:09:00 GMT

Nice and the Riviera

Budapest: Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Fri, 8 Nov 2013 03:43:00 GMT

Ever since I saw the movie “An American Rhapsody” many years ago, I have wanted to visit Budapest. There was something about the Hungarian spirit, the chain bridge and the Budapest train station that drew me to the city.

Hungary has a history of struggle and conflict dating at least as far back as the Roman conquest about 35 BCE. They have preserved against the Huns, Germanic tribes, and Slavs before uniting as Hungarians in 896 as a country of Magyars. Later the Franks, Mongols, the Turks, Austria, Germany and the Soviets conquered Hungary at various times. Maybe that’s why, even though Hungary no longer shares power within one of Europe’s great powers (Austro-Hungarian Empire), they are very happy to enjoy their own much less powerful country that is under no conflict with its neighbors

I was finally able to visit Budapest, spending about a week in this marvelous city in 2013. Budapest is a fascinating city with a rich, contradictory and complex history set in one of the most important cities of Europe during parts of the 19^th and early 20^th century. As part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, fine buildings were constructed along with wonderful parks and gardens. The “Princess Diana” of her time, Empress Elisabeth of Austria (known as Sisi) had a fondness for Hungary, and she persuaded her husband to spare no expense to make Budapest a grand city. Today it is a city that has been recently discovered by tourists, providing both the funding to make Budapest more tourist friendly while at the same time making some important sights quite crowded.

Budapest was a joy to visit. The people are very friendly and the people in the tourist trade - - except for staff selling tickets at the train station - - speak English (and indeed perhaps the majority of people from 18 – 35). Even though Budapest is a large city (over 200 square miles within the city limits) with “must see” sights spread across the city, most areas of the city are easily accessible because the public transportation is inexpensive, efficient and clean. While Vienna was the capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, many of Budapest’s buildings and sights are more magnificent than those in Vienna. The Parliament building that sits overlooking the Danube River is breathtakingly ornate. The opera house is simply spectacular. The Buda Castle complex, including the grounds and its views overlooking the city, is amazing. The wide boulevards throughout the touristy parts of the city as well as walkways along the Danube make strolling around city very enjoyable. The

The city is quite an inexpensive place to visit by European standards. I suspect this will change as more tourists discover its charms, as the infrastructure continues to improve and as more sights are rehabilitated. For now, you can continue to enjoy many lovely sights along with other dingy reminders of communist days past. It is certainly not as efficient (or spotless) as either Vienna or Salzburg, but it is certainly welcoming to visitors. It appears to love Americans because they believe the caused the Soviet system collapse; I think the Soviet system collapsed under its own weight (as do most empires eventually) perhaps hurried along a bit by the US. There is even a statue of Ronald Reagan near Liberty Square and the heavily guarded U.S. Embassy.

Budapest suffered both under communism as well as during the Nazi occupation; many of its people as well as the city itself were brutalized by both. I believe this is because they have a deeply independent nature and tried playing both sides against each other during World War II. The “House of Terror”, a former prison and interrogation site under both the Nazis and Communists is a must see sight offering insight into this tragic past.

I referenced several sources before travelling to Budapest, including: Rick Steves’ Budapest Guide, Frommer’s Europe, Rough Guide’s Europe on a Budget, Lonely Planet-Europe on a Shoestring, Europe by Eurail and Let’s Go Europe (all books), as well as Rick Steves’ Europe PBS Television Show (available on DVD) and Dennis Callan on YouTube. Even though I enjoyed all of them, I found Rick Steves’ material the most informative and thorough with the bonus of offering many tips and “off the beaten path” options.

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Budapest. Because my pictures were taken with an inexpensive Nikon camera, some of the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org; where I used their pictures, I have cited the author.

Pest, near the Danube – Pest, on the opposite side of the Danube from Buda, is where the downtown and business activity takes place.

Deak Ter (Square) _ I was here many times as this is the only junction where all 3 metro lines converge. Good for people watching.
Erzsébet tér (Erzsebet Ter – Beautiful, green park) – There is a McDonalds and coffee shops nearby.
Andrássy út (main shopping Street)
Váci utca - One of the oldest streets of Pest. During the communist era, this street had some of the more “westernized” shops, and was a magnet for locals. Now it is lined with expensive shops.
Vörösmarty Square and Statue of Mihaly Vörösmarty – Poet who inspire Hungarian Nationalism in the 19^th century.
Danube Promenade – Lovely walkway along the Danube between the Chain Bridge and Elizabeth Bridge. There are nice views of the Buda side from here.
Little Princess Statue by László Marton depicts a playful little girl. Possibly one of the most photographed sculptures along this stretch of the Danube Promanade
Girl with Her Dog – Another often photographed playful image along the Danube Promenade
Ferenciek Tere (Franciscan Square) – This offers a good idea of what the buildings in Budapest looked like before cleaning. Grand facades but soot covered
Károlyi Park (Károlyi Kert) This delightful, flower-filled oasis offers the perfect break from loud and gritty urban Pest.
University Square (Egyetem Tér) - This is home to a branch of one of the oldest universities in Europe, Eötvös Loránd Technical University or ELTE. Eötvös Loránd University was founded in 1635. The square is being rehabilitated.
Serbian Orthodox Church – The neighborhood church in what used to be an ethnic Serbian neighborhood.
Great Market Hall (Nagyvásárcsarnok) – Budapest’s largest and oldest market, it is filled with souvenir and food stalls. You can get anything from paprika, fish, produce, meats and inexpensive Hungarian dishes that you can enjoy at one of the tables inside.

Leopold (Lipótváros ) Town and nearby sights – Leopold town is on the “Pest” side of the Danube River. This is the historical business center of the city, dating back to the 18^th century. At the time of my visit, there was major road construction around the Parliament building so it was difficult to easily get to some sights. When construction is complete, I imagine the area will be better than ever.

Parliament - I got there early in the morning to get tickets because the building can get quite crowded. The building is unbelievably ornate, rivalling the beauty (and ostentation) of most of the storied buildings in Central Europe I suspect. Budapest felt a bit underappreciated as the second major city in the Austro-Hungarian Empire; the Parliament Building showed Vienna that Budapest was a world class city as well.
Kossuth Tér (square) – Many interesting monuments in this square near the Parliament. This square is sprinkled with interesting monuments and packed with Hungarian history. Get in line to buy tickets to the Parliament.
Attila József – Statue of the revered yet troubled poet who he committed suicide at 32.
Holocaust Monument – Hungary had one of the largest Jewish populations in Europe. Tragically, most did not survive the Nazi’s during World War II. These “shoes along the Danube” serve as a memorial to the hundreds of thousands that never returned.
Liberty Square (Szabadság Tér) – Home to the Soviet War Memorial as well as the plush homes to some former high class residents of the area.
St. Stephen’s Basilica (Szent István Bazilika) – built at the end of the 19^th century, this magnificent church combines many architectural styles. There is an observation deck that, at 500 Ft, offers nice views of the city (I did not climb it)
Gresham Palace – Fabulous Art Nouveau structure, originally home of aristocrats but now the site of a luxurious hotel. Beautiful lobby.
Chain Bridge (Széchenyi Lánchíd) – Iconic symbol of Budapest that connects Buda with Pest (the 2 sides used to be separate cities). Originally built in the mid-19^th century, it was destroyed during World War II and rebuilt.

Theresa Town:Andrassy Ut to City Park – Theresa Town is a neighborhood in Pest. Most people visit this part of the city to experience Andrassy Ut. Andrassy Ut is a grand boulevard in Pest that is home to classical buildings, diplomats, shops and former home to many wealthy elite. The first underground metro in Continental Europe was built under Andrassy Ut. It is easy to walk the entire length of this lovely street to Heroes’ Square. Yes there is a lot of traffic, but with wide sidewalks on either side there is nothing to fear.

Hungarian State Opera House (Magyar Állami Operaház) – Beautful Renaissance style opera house built in 1886. More fabulous than the famous opera house in Vienna, this palace for music is magnificently ornate interior. It is reported to have the best acoustics of any music hall in Europe except for 2 or 3. I was fortunate enough to take a tour of this great building.
Dreschler Palace – One of the landmarks of Budapest, it has fallen into disrepair. There are plans to convert it to a hotel.
Franz Liszt Square (Liszt Ferenc Tér) – Don’t be fooled by the statue in the front of the Square – it is not Franz Liszt; his statue is further back. This is a pleasant looking square with shops and cafes nestled under some leafy trees.
House of Terror (Terror Háza) – one of my highlights while in Budapest was visiting this devastatingly haunting site where first the Nazis and then the Soviets imprisoned and executed so many Hungarians. As I left the museum I noticed a poster listing many of the former officials of this despicable place that are still alive and living in Budapest. It’s hard to fathom what led to such cruelty, and now so easy to understand how people in Budapest are so happy to be rooted in the European Union.
Diplomatic Quarter – As you leave the commercial and heavily trafficked section of Andrassy Ut, notice the many foreign embassy’s that used to house Budapest’s wealthy citizens.
Heroes’ Square (Hősök tere) – built to celebrate Budapest’s 1,000^th year birthday in 1896, this large square is a gathering spot for locals and the entrance to the lovely City Park. Heroes’ square is at the end of Andrassy Ut.
- Millennium Monument and Obelisk – At the far end of the square, this is a memorial to the 7 founding tribes of Hungary as well as other figures from Hungarian history from the 10^th to the 20^th century.
- Museum of Fine Arts (Szépművészeti Múzeum) – Built in the neoclassical style in the early 20^th century, this house International artwork including the work of some European masters and a large Egyptian collection. It is sometimes compared to a lesser version of Vienna’s Kunsthistorisches Museum.
- Palace of Art (Kunsthalle Műcsarnok) – Another neoclassical style building constructed in the early 20^th century, this house contemporary art. This was also the sight where several anti-communist heroes were memorialized after the collapse of the Soviet Union.
- City Park (Városliget) – The site of the 1,000^th birthday party for Hungary in 1896, it is currently a relaxing place close to the center of Budapest. In addition to gardens, ponds, statues, I explored the following here:
  - Vajdahunyad Castle – You expect Walt Disney’s Tinker bell to fly out of the castle and sprinkle fairy dust on you. It was built in the late 19^th century based on ideas from castles around Hungary and other places in Europe such as Transylvania (now part of Romania), and actually consists of 4 buildings in different architectural styles.
  - Széchenyi Baths (Széchenyi Fürdő) – Constructed in the Baroque style in the early 20^th century, this medicinal bath is claimed to be the largest in Europe.
  - Budapest Zoo – One of the Oldest Zoos in Europe.

JEWISH QUARTER in Elizabethtown – Elizabethtown is in the Pest side of the Danube. At one time, Budapest had one of the largest Jewish populations of any major city in Europe. World War II changed that, as hundreds of thousands were murdered by the Nazis during the Holocaust. The Jewish Quarter in the center of Elizabethtown was the heart of Jewish life in Budapest.

Great Synagogue (sometimes called the Dohány Street Synagogue) – This beautiful synagogue is the second largest in the world (the first is in New York City), it was in a state of decay after World War II, but due to private donations it was restored to its current magnificent condition.
Jewish Museum – It contains many artifacts of Jewish life and religion. It also has a stirring exhibit of the Holocaust, including pictures of how many people of Budapest welcomed the Nazis.
Tree of Life - On the grounds of the Jewish Museum. This is a shiny metal sculpture in the shape of an upside down menorah. Each of the thousands of metal leaves contains the name of a victim of the Holocaust. The work is by revered Hungarian artist Imre Varga.
Jewish Museum Memorial Garden – On the grounds of the Jewish Museum. Many people died of disease and starvation during the Nazi occupation. The Soviets buried many of them when they “liberated” Budapest on this spot.
Raoul Wallenberg Symbolic Grave – The Swedish diplomat to Hungary saved the lives of thousands of Hungarian Jews. For his troubles, he was imprisoned by the Soviets and it is believed that he died a Gulag. This is a memorial to him as well as other non-Jews who helped save Jewish lives during the war.

Buda and the Castle District – Buda the oldest part of the city, dating back to pre-Roman times as a Celtic settlement. It contains the famous Castle Complex. Whereas Pest, on the opposite side of the Danube is flat, Buda is very hilly, with the castle sitting atop a hill overlooking the city. The best way to get here is bus # 16, # 16A or # 116. I took bus # 16A.

Castle Hill Complex – The castle and related structures are one of Budapest’s top tourist draws. It is often very crowded here.
- Royal Palace (Királyi Palota) – It was first built during the second half of the 13^th century, and has been destroyed and rebuilt. The current communist era rebuilt castle is far different than the other structures (baroque, renaissance and other styles) that had been here. The exterior
- Promontory - From the castle promontory, enjoy some wonderful views onto Pest
- Hungarian National Gallery (Magyar Nemzeti Galéria) – Hosts primarily Hungarian works. At the time I visited, there was an Impressionist exhibit including many works from Monet, Gauguin, and other French impressionists along with works by their Hungarian counterparts.
- Sándor Palace – Originally built in the early 18^th century for an aristocrat, it is now the official residence of the Hungarian head of state.

Szentháromság tér (“Holy Trinity Square”),

Matthias Church – Budapest’s great church near the Castle complex was originally built in the 14^th century, but has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. The beautiful interior displays scenes from the history of Hungary.
Fishermen’s Bastion (Halászbástya) – Below this site was the actual fish market in earlier times. During the millennium celebration of 1896, this fantasy castle was built. There are nice views from here. I did not pay the extra money to get views from the top.

Margaret Island – An easily walkable 1.6 miles long and a few hundred yards wide, this is one of Budapest’s most popular playgrounds. I took a boat ride that was part of my Hop On/Hop Off Bus tour to get here. It is very close to the city, yet with its trees, the prohibition of cars, and people of all ages relaxing, it seems very distant from Budapest. There is a pathway along the edge of the island that is a favorite of joggers. At one time there were many religious orders on the island in the past, so there are some churches and related buildings on the island also. In fact, prayed for God’s help to protect Hungary during the middle ages; in exchange he sent his daughter Margaret to a convent on the island; the island is named after her.

Citadella Fortress on Gellert Hill – This was built by forced Hungarian labor under the direction of the Austrians after the Hungarian Revolt of the mid 19^th century. The spot was chosen because of the commanding views high atop this hill. During the revolt os 1956, Soviet tanks shot down on the city from this location.

Budapest is one of the largest and most beautiful cities of Central Europe. It has a rich and sometimes tragic history that is on display through many of its buildings. The people are friendly, many speak English and the city is very inexpensive compared with other destinations in Europe. Also blessed with beautiful green spaces, I found Budapest to be a delight. I’d definitely like to return and spend more time here. Because more tourists are discovering the charms of Budapest, I suspect the next I visit it will be more expensive and more crowded.

Photos: Budapest: Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Fri, 8 Nov 2013 00:44:00 GMT

Budapest: Summer 2013

Hallstatt, Austria and the Salzkammergut; Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Mon, 4 Nov 2013 23:40:00 GMT

During my time in Austria, I spent a day in the Lake Hallstatt and Salzkammergut area east of Salzburg (between Vienna and Salzburg). This is a magnificent lake and alpine district that deserves the phrase “picture perfect”. During my time here, in addition my time in Hallstatt, I also visited Mondsee and Lake Wolfgang (even though Mozart’s mother and sister live in the town of St. Wolfgang, the lake and town are named after a saint, not the famous composer).

Clear mountain lakes, bright blue sky, gentle alpine mountains and lush green meadows and forests greet you in the Salzkammergut area of Austria. There are several small villages and a number of lakes in the region. But I only visited Hallstatt (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and its beautiful Lake, Mondsee and Lake Wolfgang.

I referenced several sources before travelling to Vienna, including: Rick Steves’ Vienna-Salzburg & Tirol, Frommer’s Europe, Rough Guide’s Europe on a Budget, Lonely Planet-Europe on a Shoestring, Europe by Eurail and Let’s Go Europe (all books), as well as Rick Steves’ Europe PBS Television Show (available on DVD) and Dennis Callan on YouTube. Even though I enjoyed all of them, I found Rick Steves’ material the most informative and thorough with the bonus of offering many tips and “off the beaten path” options.

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in the Salzkammergut area.

Hallstatt is an ancient city, dating back to 800 BCE or earlier. It was a very important economic center throughout most of its history because of its lucrative salt mines.

Picturesque town – Hugging the lake and clinging to the mountain, the town is quite narrow and takes only about 30 minutes to traverse its length.
Catholic Church and Bone House – The Church dates back to the 12^th century, while the famous Bone House exists because the cemetery is so small that the remains of older dead were dug up to make room for the newly dead. The older dead ended up in the Bone House after their bones were carefully cleaned.
Boat Trip— for a small fee, I went on a trip around the entire lake. The day was perfect, a few white puffy clouds in the otherwise deep blue sky. The views from the boat were spectacular.
Walking Tour of the town – Beautiful pastel buildings down on the square or perched up on the mountainside. Lots of people enjoying the beauty the day I spent in Hallstatt.

St Michaels Church in Mondsee – Perhaps most famous as the scene where Maria and the Captain are married in “The Sound of Music”. The church was actually part of a monastery far older, with roots going back to the 8^th century. The existing church dates back to the 15^th century.

Lake Wolfgang – beautiful small lake with a couple of lovely towns (St. Wolfgang and St. Gilgen) and gorgeous views of the mountains, meadows, forests and of course the lake.

Wouldn’t it be lovely to spend a few weeks here! Many of the towns are quiet at night when the day tourists until mid-morning I’m told, leaving the pristine lakes and charming towns to be enjoyed. I’d love to go back. There is a bus that connects many locations around Lake Wolfgang, and there is a train and a bus that takes you to Hallstatt as well.

Photos: Hallstatt, Austria and the Salzkammergut; Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Mon, 4 Nov 2013 23:18:00 GMT

Hallstatt, Austria and the Salzkammergut; Summer 2013

Salzburg: Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Sun, 3 Nov 2013 15:58:00 GMT

Salzburg, at the northern edge of the Alps, is a captivating city that has so much to offer visitors. It conjures up wonderful images: Mozart, the lushness of green meadows and blue sky, the mountains off in the distance, beautiful architecture, history, Americans in love with “The Sound of Music” and the art of fine living Austrian style.

Although the bombs of World War II destroyed much of the “new” part of the city, Salzburg’s old town missed the destruction that many major city centers throughout Europe experienced. Because of this, Salzburg is noted for being one of the best preserved Baroque cities in Europe. In addition to Baroque architecture, Salzburg is home to the largest intact medieval fortress in Europe – still very imposing perched on a hill overlooking the historic city center. The city, especially the historic city center, is compact and except for a few sites can easily be navigated on foot. The public buses are a convenient way to travel from the train station to hotels near the old town as well as to outlying sites.

I spent a week in Salzburg during the summer which is a very busy time to visit Salzburg. According to Rick Steves, about 8 million people visit Salzburg each year, making it one of the most popular destinations in Europe. Most of those visitors arrive during the summer months. And indeed there were major crowds in the old town. Still, the bright greens of the meadows and trees along with the stunning blue sky and the foothills of the Alps made it an enchanting time to visit as well. And when I left the historic center, there were few tourists to dodge as I explored the Salzburg that is home to the locals. Taking a stroll along the scenic Salzach River (there is a pedestrian walkway on either side) was a delight as well as a convenient way to walk to other parts of the city (and the Augustine brewery for a beer and inexpensive meal). With the Salzburg card, I was able to gain admission to most of the important sites.

Salzburg can be an expensive city. But with the Salzburg card, public transportation and supermarkets offering many items for a picnic (Billa and Spar are both located in the heavily touristed old city), it didn’t break the bank. A laundromat within a few yards of a major bus stop made it inexpensive and easy to wash my clothes before heading off to my next destination. I ate a couple of meals at the Augustinian Brewery, an inexpensive buffet style option patronized by locals that is about a 15 minute walk along the Salzach river from the old town.

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Salzburg. Most of the sites below are in the Old Town. Because my pictures were taken with an inexpensive Nikon camera, some of the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org; where I used their pictures, I have cited the author.

Sites in the Old Town

Mozartplatz – Located near the Tourist Information Office along the banks of the Salzach River. A statue of Mozart adorns the square named after Salzburg’s most famous resident.
Residentzplatz – A square surrounded by some of Salzburg’s most famous landmarks. First laid out by Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg Wolf Dietrich Raitenau in the late 16th century. This is near Mozartplatz and in the heart of the Old Town.

1. Old (Alte) Residenz – Residences of royals, this building dates back to the 12^th century. Prince-Archbishop (both the top secular and religious official) Wolf Dietrich remodeled this existing medieval residence in the 16^th century; it was originally built in the 15^th century. It was later given a Baroque façade at the end of the 16^th century. Magnificent interior, although compared to the huge Schonbrunn Palace in Vienna, this royal residence is rather modest - - having only about 180 rooms.
2. Neue (New) Residenz – Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich seems to have tired of the Old Palace, so he had a new one constructed in the early 17th century. The famous glockenspiel sits atop this building, and the Salzburg Museum is housed in the building.
3. Residenz Fountain - Largest and finest Baroque fountain this side of the Alps according to Frommers. The fountain was modeled after Bernini’s “Triton Fountain” in Rome.

Salzburg Cathedral – This magnificent Baroque church was built in the 17th century as a Catholic church at the request of Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich. Although much of Europe was embroiled in the war between the Catholics and the Protestants (the “30 Years War”), Salzburg stayed out of the War; perhaps Salzburg was testifying to the belief that it is better to be enjoying peaceful prosperity. I attended the wonderful “musical mass” at 10:00 on Sunday.
St Peter’s Church or Abbey – Reputed to be one of the oldest monasteries in this area of Europe, it dates back to the 12^th century. Mozart was said to have premiered his Great Mass in C Minor in this church. His sister’s tomb is in the church. It has a Romanesque exterior with a Rococo interior.
St. Peter’s Cemetery – Adjacent to the Church, this is a lovely, peaceful spot with beautiful mini-gardens surrounding the gravesites.
Salzburg Fortress (Hohensalzburg Fortress or Festung) – This imposing fortress sits high up on a hill overlooking the old town. It is one of the largest fortresses in Europe (and I believe it is the largest intact fortress in Europe). Its history dates back to the 11th century. There is a funicular that will effortlessly take you to the top for stunning views of Salzburg and the surrounding area. I chose to walk up the long steep hill. Since the town was supposed to gather here in the event of a siege, there are many buildings within the complex. In fact, Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich spent his last days in the prison here after resigning his post.
Alm River Canal Exhibit and Waterwheel – The water system, dating back to the 12^th century is described in this interesting exhibit. The river was divided into five smaller streams for use by businesses, government and citizens. The exhibit is near St. Peter’s Church at the base of the funicular.
Getreidegasse Street (Grain Lane) – This is one of Salzburg’s busiest streets, and one of its loveliest. Shopping here can be very expensive, so just enjoying the surroundings may be the best activity. Before the majority of Salzburg’s citizens could read, shop keepers had metal signs displaying the goods sold inside the store. These signs are still used today. Mozart was born on this street at #9.
Mozart’s birthplace (Mozart Gerburtshaus) – Mozart was born here at 9 Getreidegasse (Grain Lane) on the third floor in 1756. It contains artifacts related to his life including a violin and clavichord. The house was built in the 12th. It is quite crowded but a thrill to have been in the house that Mozart spent his childhood until 1773.
Siemens Opera Concert on the Square – Hundreds of people enjoy a concert on the giant screen and excellent sound system on each summer evening. Local eateries set up tents and tables to serve food and drinks to the hungry patrons. Although not as grand as the Concerts at City Hall in Vienna, I enjoyed the opera and conversation with an Austrian family visiting Salzburg from Vienna.
Mönchsberg Mountain and Walk – This small (1700 foot) mountain offers panoramic views of Salzburg. I began my walk at the entrance to the walkway near the Augustinian Brewery. The path ends near the Fortress (or you can begin at the foot of the fortress and end up by the Augustinian Brewery). Even though there was a slight drizzle on the day of my walk, it was very enjoyable and the views from the path were spectacular. There are many historical structures (and a few houses), as well as the Museum of Modern Art on the mountain. Allowing for stops along the way, the walk took me about 45 minutes.
Nonnberg Church and Abbey (Stiftskirche Nonnberg) - This may look familiar to those who have watched “The Sound of Music” as the place where the children look for Maria through the gate after she returns to the abbey. More importantly, this is reputed to be the oldest continuously operating convent in the German speaking world dating back to the 8^th century (the current building dates back to the late 15^th century). Just below the abbey is a small park with a couple of benches that provide an excellent spot for enjoying a picnic lunch and listening to the birds under the shade of trees.

Mirabell Gardens and Palace – The palace and gardens, located outside the “old town”, were built in the early 17^th century at the request of Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg Wolf Dietrich Raitenau as a home for his mistress. The gardens are spectacular, and there are many interesting sculptures, including a pair of frequently photographed unicorns. The Pegasus statue is the setting for one of the scenes in “The Sound of Music”. Currently, the palace houses many city government offices.

Mozart’s Residence (Mozart Wohnhaus) – This is the home that Mozart lived in with his family after leaving his “birth house” until he moved to Vienna. The home is located across the Salzach River in the “New Town”. As it was much larger than his birth house, it allowed the family (especially Wolfgang and his sister Nannerl) to entertain distinguished guests. A lot of time on the audio guide and space in the museum is devoted to how much we do not know about Mozart’s actual appearance as demonstrated by the many portraits. Still, it is worthwhile to have stepped foot into one of the houses where Mozart lived.

Hellbrunn Palace and Gardens (Schloss Hellbrunn) and Gardens – I thought this to be one of the loveliest places in Salzburg. The gardens are lush, colorful, large and full of tourists and locals enjoying the peaceful sights and sounds of nature. Built in the early 17^th century, the magnificent palace was designed as an escape for the prince-archbishop during summer days (at night, he would return to the city center). I guess royalty and church leaders lived pretty well in Salzburg. The “trick fountains” were fun to watch (and feel), but the highlight for me was the beautiful grounds and Baroque garden. The gazebo on the grounds is where Liesl sang “16 going on 17” in The Sound of Music. I took bus #25 from the city to arrive here (it stops right around the corner from the entrance). You can also walk from the Old Town; I believe it will take 30 – 45 minutes.

Augustinian Brewery and Beer Garden (Augustiner Bräustuberl) – I went here for meals and a beer a couple of evenings. The food and beer is cheap and tasty. It can be very crowded during the summer, as it was on one evening when I was here. You can choose your food from the many food venders who have market-like booths. I ate outside under the trees, but you can also eat in one of the 2 large dining halls inside. It is about a 15 minute walk from Mozartplatz in the Old Town; look for the Augustinian Church along the river, climb the stairs from the street, take a quick right at the top of the stairs, and the entrance is on your left.

Salzach River – The River divides the city in two, with the Old Town on the south and the New Town on the north. There is a pedestrian walkway on both sides of the river. I walked along the river on several occasions, both to enjoy the scenery and to get to destinations around the river. There are beautiful views of the city from either side.

Untersberg Mountain – The best views of Salzburg and the surrounding countryside can be yours from the 5,000 foot Untersburg Mountain, located on the outskirts of Salzburg. I took the cable car up to the summit, but there are hiking trails if you have time. As you travel up the mountain by cable car, don’t think about the enormous span of 1 mile between the station and the first tower, nor the 900 foot drop to the ground at one point. Public transportation will take you to the mountain (bus #25, the same one that took me to Hellbrunn Palace).

Sound of Music Tour –I purchased the Sound of Music tour from “Bob’s Tour”. This was a great way to see sites scattered around Salzburg. The tour guide (Rosemary) was excellent, providing historical commentary, stopping at many interesting sites that were in the film, and providing us the opportunity to see the spectacular country-side on a beautiful late summer day.

Salzburg was a delight to visit in late summer. A feast for the senses, it was vibrant with the sounds of music, aromas of the various food stalls, and beauty of the architecture, meadows and the surrounding mountains and hills. Salzburg’s Old Town is one of the best preserved city centers north of the Alps. The crowds in the old town can be a bit challenging, but away from the old town there are many delights that can be enjoyed without worrying about the crush of tourists. The banks of the Salzach River are great for a stroll, and provide a quick orientation to your location.

Photos: Salzburg: Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Sun, 3 Nov 2013 15:39:00 GMT

Salzburg: Summer 2013

Vienna: Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Wed, 30 Oct 2013 23:37:00 GMT

Vienna is steeped in history and culture, and filled with palaces and buildings that testify to its glory days as the capital of the most powerful region in Europe. The Viennese pride themselves in the beauty of the numerous parks that are located throughout Vienna. And being home to Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss and other musical geniuses, it is the place to be for music lovers. For those wishing to explore its history, culture and beauty - - Vienna couldn’t be easier. Most of the important sites and activities are contained within the compact city center that is circled by the Ringstrausse (Ring Road). The majestic St. Stephen’s Cathedral is right in the center of “tourist” Vienna, making it easy to orient oneself if temporarily lost.

I spent a little over a week in Vienna, and could easily have spent more time because there is so much to do and see. Many of the most importants sites are literally within a few minutes walk of each other. There is a lovely walkway through gardens connecting the many buildings of the Hofburg Palce complex. It only takes about one-half hour to walk from one end of the Ringstrausse to the other. The the clean and efficient public transportation system quickly took me to those sites that were not within easy walking distance of the “Ringstrausse”. I also got a 2 day Hop On/Hop Off Bus ticket that provided street views of important sites, easy access to some must see sites such as the Schonbrunn and Belvedere Palaces, and interesting audio narrative.

In spite of the crowds, travelling during the summer as I did provides an opportunity to become a “temporary” Viennese. One of my highlights was strolling within the many parks, particulary those along the Ringstrausse. The Vienna Woods and vinyards, as well as Danube Island, provided a relaxing opportunity to escape the crowds of the inner city while walking along scenic paths.

As memorable were the nights I spent at the “Vienna Concerts at City Hall”, also known as the Rathaus Film Festival. Thousands of people enjoy these concerts every night. They are shown on a huge (almost 1,000 square foot) screen and a very impressive sound system. Admission is FREE. Local restaurants set up tents to serve a variety of Austrian and worldwide dishes along with drinks of your choice. One evening I saw a Paul McCartney and Wings concert - - incredible, it was like being at the concert. They also feature opera, jazz, ballet and other types of music.

The people of Vienna are more reserved than those in some other cities I visited over the summer (Krakow, Prague and Budapest for instance). But they were more than willing to help out if asked. The staff at the local Tourist Information Office near the Opera House were very helpful in providing information and tips. I liked the non-auto pathways along the Ringstrausse - - there was one side for pedestrians and the other side was for bicyclists; my fears of getting hit by a speeding bicyclist (a major fear in Krakow) were eliminated. Reserved but creative and ready to enjoy life perhaps best sums up the Viennese spirit.

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Vienna. My pictures were taken with an inexpensive Nikon camera; because it was limited, some of the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org; where I used their pictures, I have cited the author.

State Opera: This opulent landmark was heavily damaged in World War II and much of it was redesigned when reconstructed. The Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra recruits its members from the orchestra of the State Opera. I bought a ticket for the 45-minute guided tour—€6.50. Because the major orchestras are not in Vienna during the summer, I was not able to see a performance here.
Hofburg Palace and Royal Apartments – The Imperial Palace is located just a 3 minute walk from the Opera House. This stately palace was once home to some of the most powerful rulers in Europe, including Marie Antoinette’s mother Empress Maria Theresa. In addition to the Imperial Palace, there are many buildings within the Hofburg Palace complex. The displays of porcelain, gold and silver used for formal dinners is incredible. The apartments were both grand and functional; the last emporer, Franz Josef, did much of his work here.
Palce Gardens - A pleasant stretch of parkland, statues, grass and walkways that offer a nice place to relax. The walkways also connect the various buildings within the complex.
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Musuem of Art) - a fine art museum housed in a palatial building behind the Hofburg Palace. Artwork is by Titian, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, other European masters.
Heroes’ Square (Heldenplatz) – Impressive entry way into the Hofburg Palace complex. Many important historical events have taken place here.
Augustinian Church – A beautiful Gothic church that was the site of royal functions. It is a 2 minute walk from the Hofburg Imperial Palace going back torward the Opera House. I attended church service on Sunday – the organ music and choir were wonderful.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral – Originally built in the Gothic style in the14^th century, this massive church is one of Vienna’s most enduring symbols. Its south tower is 445 feet high. The colorful tiled roof is a marvel. The views from the south tower are amazing. It is easy to consume a few hours here given the size and history stored witin, so I had to keep an eye on the time. It is at the center of Vienna’s historic old town.
St. Charle’s Church (Karlskirsche) – Wonderful Baroque church with a magnificent fresco in the dome. You can take an elevator ride up to the 235 foot high dome, although I did not do this.
Belvedere Palace (Schloss Belvedere) – Public transportation (or my Hop On/Hop Off tour ticket) is necessary to get here as it is quite a distance from the Ringstrausse. In addition to being a magnificent Baroque palace (actually 2), the Belvedere is a wonderful art gallery housing 19^th and early 20^th century art including an extensive collection by Gustav Klimt (including “The Kiss”). I toured the “Upper Palace” and the gardens. In some ways, the palace is grander than the royal Imperial Palace at Hofburg.
Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schonbrunn) – not wanting to be upstaged by the Belvedere palace, the Schonbrunn is (aside from Versailles) the grandest European palace according to many. This summer residence of the Austrian royalty is a massive complex with over 1,400 rooms. The gardens and grounds are as spectacular as the palace. I took the grand tour that included Franz Josef’s apartments, his wife Sisi’s apartments and the apartments of the grand royal of them all – Maria Theresa. Since this is on the outskirts of Vienna, public transportation (or my Hop On/Hop Off tour ticket) is necessary to get here as it is quite a distance from the Ringstrausse.
City Hall Open-Air Concert Films and Food Circus (Rathaus Film Festival 2013) – Vienna knows how to use its public spaces. Every evening during the summer, a concert film is shown at the magnificent City Hall (Rathuas). Thousands of people enjoy a concert shown on a huge (almost 1,000 square foot) screen and a very impressive sound system. Admission is FREE. Local restaurants set up tables to serve a variety of Austrian and worldwide dishes along with drinks of your choice. I visited twice during my stay. One evening I saw a Paul McCartney and Wings concert - - incredible, it was like being at the concert. They also feature opera, jazz, balet and other types of music.A thriving people scene erupts each evening in
Mozarthaus – According to Rick Steves, this is the only apartment where Mozart lived that is still standing. He also said that the exhibits are “dry” and I agree. However, to have stepped into an apartment where Mozart lived is incredible so I’m glad I went. The audio guide does present some interesting information about his life.
Musikverein – The famous concert hall near the Ringstrausse that is home to the Vienna Philhamonic Orchestra. In addition to being a feast for the eyes, the acoustics in the main concert hall (Golden) are supposed to be among the best in the world. I took a guided tour and was able to see all of the rooms, including the several rehearsal and performance halls. This is the home of the famous New Years Eve Holiday Show on PBS (in the Gold Hall). Because the major orchestras are not in Vienna during the summer, I was not able to see a performance here.
St. Peter’s Church (Peterskirche) – A beautiful Baroque church dating back to the early 18^th century. It is located in central Vienna. The interior is very ornate and contains some famous paintings, fresco and statues. The guilded altarpiece and organ are fabulous.
Stadtpark (City Park) – I tried to visit as many parks in Vienna as possible because Vienna is noted for its parks. A large portion of the city is turned over to Vienna’s parks. The Stadtpark is Vienna’s major park, and it is located on the Ringstrausse. It has ponds, gardens, statues. One of the statues is the famous bronze statue of Johann Strauss II, located just inside one of the main entrances.
Danube Island (Donauinsel) – I took an easy metro ride that took me right to Danube Island. A local escape from the city, it is often filled with sun bathers, bike riders, walkers, and joggers on the weekend. When I visited during a weekday morning, it was quiet with only a few bikeriders, joggers and locals walking their dogs amid the tranquil beauty. I spent about 90 minures walking and admiring the island and the views of Vienna. Although I did not do this, it is easy to bike the entire island as it is only about 13 miles long and a few hundred feet wide.
A Walk in the Vienna Woods (Wienerwald) - I took the U-4 subway line to Heiligenstadt and then bus #38A to nearby Kahlensberg, a hill overlooking Vienna and offering some great views. (Kahlenberg is the site of a meeting between Albert Einstein and other prominent scientists to discuss the creation of an encyclopedia of scientific knowledge.) After walking around the hill, I hopped back on bus #38A and rode bit further away from the city to Leopoldsberg, a larger hill for some more beautiful views of Vienna. On the way the bus went through lovely Grinzing. Once in Leopoldsberg, I enjoyed the views and took the path (downhill) toward Grinzing. The walk through the woods and vinyards was very nice. I met some locals walking and jogging, and saw some vineyard workers. Other than that, I just enjoyed the lovely views and sounds of nature. Once in Grinzing, I walked through a couple of beautiful neighborhoods and then went to the bus stop in Grinzing to take Bus #38 back to Vienna. It was a lovely way to spend an afternoon. A Vienna bus ticket (or other public transportation ticket) is all that’s needed to get to Leopoldsberg – my hotel told me it would not, but the local Tourist Information Office confirmed that it would.
Wine Gardens (Heuriger) – After my walk through the vinyards, I ate at a wine garden. Vienna is noted for its wine gardens (restaurants) where local food (often buffet style) is served with Vienna’s newly bottled wine. The taste of the wine brought me back to my college days where wine was not always the most palatable. A great variety of food was offered; I just pointed to what I wanted, and my excellent server provided me with a large portion. I ate in a very beautiful outdoor dining area. The setting was beautiful. Many Heuriger are located near the Vienna Woods. The wine garden I visited was near Beethovenhaus in the Nussdorf section of Vienna, an easy Tram Ride (#D) from the State Opera.
Beethovenhaus – A house where it is believed Beethovern MAY have lived while he summered in the Vienna Woods. It was interesting to tour the museum, though a bit disappointing to read upon exiting that he may never have lived here. There is a lock of his hair and a death mask on exhibit.
There was a Laundromat near my hotel, so I could do my laundry prior to heading off to Salzburg. I found that going to the Laundromat is a good way to meet locals and find out more about the city.

I enjoyed my time in Vienna. It is home to fine coffee houses and pastries, great parks, palaces and museums. St. Stephen’s cathedral and most of its sites are within the easily walkable Ringstrausse. The public transportation system is efficient and easy to use, quickly getting to places outside the city center. My big regret - I wish I had visited the town of Melk (between Vienna and Salzburug on the Danube) and toured the Melk Abbey. Perhaps next time.

Photos: Vienna: Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Wed, 30 Oct 2013 22:45:00 GMT

Vienna: Summer 2013

Prague - Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Sun, 27 Oct 2013 15:20:00 GMT

Prague is a magical city that has deep historical roots nestled within a vibrant, friendly, modern city. It was the third largest city in Medieval Europe and was one of the most powerful cities in Central Europe; its king (Charles IV) was not only king of Bohemia but he was also Holy Roman Emperor as well. It is one of the few major European cities that escaped major destruction in World War II. When you marvel at its historic districts, you’re looking at the original structures – not rebuilt as in other cities such as Vienna. It’s an ideal stop for those interested in seeing original architecture from a number of periods. Prague historically has been one of the major cultural centers in Europe; in fact Mozart fell in love with the city and premiered his opera Don Giovanni at the Estates Theatre in Prague. I spent about a week in Prague in the summer of 2013. More than any of the other half dozen destinations in 4 countries I visited that summer, Prague stands out as the first one I wish to revisit because there is so much to see and do and the people are so friendly. The fact that it is much less expensive to visit is a bonus. The weather, mainly sunny with a few clouds and temperatures in the 70s was wonderful during my stay; people told me that it had been in the 90s and humid in the 2 weeks before my stay.

Prague can be a confusing city, because its history and tourist sites are spread throughout many parts of the city. There is the Castle District (Hradčany), Lesser Town (Malá strana), Old Town (Staré město), New Town (Nové město), and the Jewish Quarter (Josefov). Because so many people speak English and they are so friendly, it is easy to ask directions of many people on the street. And the public transportation system is well connected, inexpensive, efficient and clean. Prague is divided in two by the Vltava River, with the Castle District and Lesser Town on the left bank of the river and the Old Town, New Town (it is new only in relation to the older “Old” Town) , and Jewish Quarter on the right bank of the Vltava. The two sides are connected by the ever popular Charles Bridge. The Vltava river, Charles Bridge and the Castle help to orient you as you wander Prague’s streets.

Unfortunately, the secret of Prague’s beauty, affordability and charm are making it an increasingly popular tourist destination. The crowds in the Castle, Old Town and particularly on Charles Bridge can seem overwhelming at times. According to many travel publications, Prague attracts about 4 million tourists a year, and most of these arrive in the summer months. Another caution: it is said that there are many pickpockets (especially on the heavily touristed public transit trams and buses), scams and dishonest cab drivers in Prague. I did not experience any of this, but many of the travel publications warn tourists of this.

I referenced several sources before travelling to Prague, including: Rick Steves’ Eastern Europe, Frommer’s Europe, Rough Guide’s Europe on a Budget, Lonely Planet-Europe on a Shoestring, Europe by Eurail and Let’s Go Europe (all books), as well as Rick Steves’ Europe PBS Television Show (available on DVD) and Dennis Callan on YouTube. Even though I enjoyed all of them, I found Rick Steves’ material the most informative and thorough.

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Prague. My pictures were taken with an inexpensive Nikon camera. Some of the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org (able to offer angles and panoramas that my camera cannot); where I used their pictures, I have cited the author.

Because the city is so spread out, I took advantage of one of the Hop On/Hop Off bus tours; a two day ticket cost about $30 and includes an audio transcript in English and other languages of the sites as you pass them. I also used public transportation throughout my stay; I never used a taxi. My particular HopOn/Hop Off tour included a lovely river cruise as well.

Old Town (Staré město) and near the Old Town
- Charles Bridge (Karlův most) – The best time to enjoy the bridge is early in the morning before crowds descend on it. Enjoy the towers, statues and views along the 1,700 foot long bridge that connects the two sides of Prague. During the daytime, it is crowded with tourists, artists and street performers.
- Klementinum - Eastern Europe’s largest library and one of its largest building complexes, it currently houses the Czech National Library. Very lovely library, more so than at the Strahov Monastary (another Jesuit order) I thought. During the medieval period it was the site of a Jesuit monastery where some of the greatest learning took place. It later became noted for its scientific work and astronomical observatory. Concerts often take place here. Wonderful views of Prague from the Astronomical Tower.
- Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) is the historical market square dating back to the 11^th century. In spite of the crowds it can take you back 600 years. Now there are musicians, street performers, musicians and tourist venders packed among the many historical sites. There are a variety of architectural types including: gothic, renaissance, baroque and rococo.
  - Jan Hus Monument – before there was Martin Luther, there was Jan Hus speaking out about the corruption and abuses of the Catholic Church. For his troubles, he was burned at the stake in 1415. This statue dominates one end of the square.
  - Old Town Hall (Staroměstská radnice) – Seat of the municipal government when Prague became unified in the late 18th century. Its tower contains the popular Astronomical Clock. Beautiful views of the city from the top of the tower.
  - Astronomical Clock (Pražský orloj) - One of the most visited sites in Prague, it dates back to the early 15^th century and is the oldest working Astronomical Clock in the world according to many.
- Týn Church (Týnský chrám) – A feature of the Old Town since the 15^th century, this Gothic church’s beautiful spires dominate the skyline in this part of the city.
- Municipal House (Obecní dům) - Constructed in the Art Nouveau style in the early 20th century, it serves as a concert hall and civic building. Many believe this to be one of the most stunning examples of Art Nouveau construction in Europe. The interior is very ornate. A magnificent marble staircase leads to Smetana Hall, home of the largest concert hall (along with the Rudolfinum's Dvořák Hall) in Prague and some of the finest acoustics in the region. I saw a lovely concert in Smetna hall by the Prague Royal Orchestra.
- Church of St. James (Kostel Sv. Jakuba) –Gorgeuous interior and marvelous pipe organ. Some believe it is the most beautiful Baroque church in the Old Town. Houses the tomb of Count Vratislav of Mitrovice who was accidently buried alive when he fell unconscious and appeared dead.
- The Estate’s Theatre (Stavovské divadlo) – constructed in the late 18^th century. Shortly after it opened, Mozart Premiered “Don Giovanni” here. Of course, it made sense that some of the scenes from the movie “Amadeus” were shot here also. It is claimed to be the only existing theatre in which Mozart performed. The interior is lush and magnificently restored and was a sumptuous venue for seeing Mozart opera arias one evening during my stay.
- Havel’s Market (Havelská trziste) - Colorful open-air market that used to be the city center’s main market for fruits and vegetables, although now it houses many souvenir shops as well.
Jewish Quarter (Josefev) – This quarter is surrounded by the Old Town, and was the site of the Jewish Ghetto. Prague had one of the oldest Jewish communities in Europe, dating back to the 1200’s. There is a rich and often tragic history associated with Josefev; as was the case in many European cities, Jewish people were banned from living anywhere but the ghetto. I believe that Rick Steves says it is the best collection of Jewish sights in Europe. I bought a discount ticket that allows entry into most of the historic sites.
- Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova Synagóga) – As a memorial to the almost 80,000 Czech Jews during the Holocaust, the names of each victim is handwritten on the wall. Seeing the row upon row of names is almost mind numbing. There is a very evocative art exhibit displaying the drawings of children imprisoned at the Nazi’s Terezin concentration camp; these children all perished at the hands of the Nazis.
- Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov) – It is Europes oldest Jewish Cemetery dating back at least as far back as the 15th century. The tombs are laid one on top of another due to the limited space. Some estimate the number of dead buried here at 100,000.
- Old-New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga) – Built in the 13th century in the Gothic style, it is the oldest active Synagogue in Europe. I bought a ticket for a guided tour of this building and the Old Jewish Cemetery. The synagogue houses many Jewish religious artifacts and also has a room displaying the tragic events as the Nazis invaded the ghetto and imprisoned its citizens.
- Spanish Synagogue (Španělská Synagóga) – This appears to be constructed in an Islamic style, with the interior covered with beautiful and intricate patterns. An exhibit upstairs traces the history of Josefev during the 1900’s with photos and exhibits. Particularly moving are the stories and photos of the Jewish experience after 1931. Also on display are the valuable silver items stolen by the Nazis when the ghetto was depopulated.
- Rudolfinum - One of Prague's premier music venues, it sits on the banks of the Viltava River and is built in the neo-Renaissance style. According to music lovers, it is appreciated for its wonderful acoustics. I did not attend a concert here, but based on my discussions with others, a concert here may have been better than at Municipal House or the Estates Theatre (where I did attend concerts).
New Town (Nove Mesto) and nearby – New Town is not so new, having been first planned in the mid 14^th century. It is only new in comparison to the “Old Town”.
- Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí) – The scene of many historic events, including protests following the invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviets in 1968 and the demonstrations during the Velvet Revolution in 1989. It is named after Saint Wenceslas (referred to as a “King” in the Christmas carol, he was really only a Duke). Currently it feels more like a Boulevard with streets enclosing a pedestrian-only walkway in the center of the square. It is an immense space, once home to the city’s Horse Market. At the upper end is a statue of Wenceslas and beyond that the magnificent National Museum building.
  - National Museum (Národní muzeum) – Constructed in the latter part of the 19^th century in the neo-Renaissance style, it had been heavily damaged during the 20^th century. You can still see where Soviet bullets hit the building during their 1968 invasion. It was also damaged during World War II. It is currently closed for restoration work. The grand entrance leads into an interior that is decorated with frescos, statues and marble staircases (I was able to “tour” the building even though it is closed because the entrance is open because there are some events that take place in the lower floors).
  - St. Wenceslas Statue (Svatováclavský Socha) – Wenceslas (a duke, not a king) is decked out in full armor and astride his horse. He was killed by his brother’s associates and is considered a martyr. Beneath him at the foot of the monument are statues representing 4 saints, including his grandmother Ludmilla.
  - Melantrich Building - On the balcony Alexander Dubček and Václav Havel addressed crowds (perhaps as many as 300,000) during the Velvet Revolution in November 1989.
- Alfons Mucha Museum – Celebrates the life and works of the artist. Many of his works are contained here, including posters that were often used in advertising campaigns. There were primarily two styles represented - - the slinky sexy woman, often part of theatre advertisements, and a later period of Czech nationalism. He also designed the stained glass window behind the altar in St. Vitus Cathedral. Possibly his most famous work is the Slav Epic housed in the National Gallery.
- Charles Square (Karlovo Náměstí) - Prague’s largest square is covered by lawns, trees, and statues of Czech writers. It may have been the largest town square in Medieval Europe, and remains one of the world’s largest squares. Originally used as the Cattle Market. It was founded in the mid-14^th century by King Charles of Bohemia (who later become Holy Roman Emperor).
- Prague State Opera (Státní opera Praha) – At the time of its construction in the late 19^th centruy, the State Opera building was one of the most beautiful theatres in Europe. Originally called the New German Theatre, and later Smetana Theatre, it was renamed the Prague State Opera after the Velvet Revolution in 1989.
Castle District (Hradcany) and nearby
- Castle Complex
  - Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)– Kings of Bohemia, Holy Roly Emporers and Czech leaders have ruled from here. According to the Guinness book of World Records, it is the largest ancient castle in the world. It dates back to the 9^th century.
  - St. Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála svatého Víta) – This Gothic church is the largest church in the Czech Republic Marvel at the stained glass behind the altar created by Alfos Mucha. This is the final resting place of St. Wenceslas (the “good King” from the Christmas song).
  - St. George’s Basilica (Bazilika Sv. Jiří) – This Romanesque church was originally built in the 10^th century. It is the oldest surviving church within the castle complex. It houses the remains of some important figures from Prague’s past, as well paintings of significance to the Czech people.
  - Lobkowicz Palace (Lobkowiczký palác) – Originally built in the 16^th century, it is privately owned (the only privately owned property in the castle complex) and currently run by the Lobkowicz family (descendents of the 1^st Prince Lobkowicz). Excellent audio guide allows visitors to explore the history of Prague through their collection and family history. In addition to the largest privately owned collection of paintings in the Czech Republic, there is an extensive musical collection including original scores by Mozart and Beethoven. According to the audio, the Lobkowicz family were major patrons of Mozart and especially Beethoven. My visit was one of the highlights of my trip to Prague.
  - Golden Lane (Zlatá ulička) – Housed many of the servants and workers within the castle complex. Provides insight into the architectural style of the homes used by ordinary workers.
  - Royal Gardens – These enjoyable gardens are somewhat hidden outside the castle walls, with the main entrance on U Prašného mostu Street. After the crowds of the castle, I enjoyed the quiet, green and cool surroundings of the garden – there were not many people here at all. In the gardens you’ll find many sculptures, graceful lawns, beautiful gardens, many species of trees, fountains, the Presidential Palace (Domeček) and Queen Anna’s Summer House (Letohrádek královny Anny).
- Strahov Monastery (Strahovský klášter) and Library – The Monastery was originally founded in the 12th century. It is not far from the castle complex and can be reached by taking a road downhill from the castle. The beautiful library can only be seen from the doorway; if you want to take pictures you have to pay for the privilege. After your visit, for the price of a glass of wine or a beer, you can enjoy wonderful views of Prague at one of the outdoor tables at the Bella Vista Restaurant on the Strahov Monastary grounds.
- Sternberg Palace (Šternberský palác) - The National Gallery old European Baroque Collection is housed in this former Baroque palace. I believe the second floor is the more interesting because it houses paintings from the European masters of the 16^th to 18^th centuries. I was a bit disappointed in the art collection but enjoyed the tour of the magnificent building.
Lesser Town (Mala Strana)
- Wallenstein Palace Garden (Valdštejnská zahrada)– Located at the former Baroque palace that now houses the Czech Senate, it is a calm and restful place to escape from the bustle of Prague. Modeled on the gardens of Italy. Wander with the peacocks while enjoying the gardens, lawns, and surroundings in this quiet refuge.
- Church of St. Nicholas (Kostel svatého Mikuláše) - Gorgeous Baroque church, many consider it to be one of the finest Baroque churches in central Europe. Stunning, beautiful, huge interior and striking exterior.
- Petrˇín Tower – Walk up or take the funicular to the top to enjoy the walk among the trees and gardens. Capped by a miniature Eiffel Tower and surrounded by trees, it soars 400 feet above the town. This is a quiet oasis with commanding views of Prague from the top.
- Kampa Island (Na Kampě) - Take the Castle Walkway down to this peaceful, Venice-like island on the Vltava River. From the Charles Bridge (as you walk from the Lesser Town to the Old Town), take the staircase on the right down to the island. My time here was a very peaceful contrast to the crowds on Charles Bridge just a short walk away. Enjoy a stroll and sit on a bench shaded by the lovely trees and enjoy the views of Charles Bridge and the Vltava River.
Cruising the Vltava – One of the benefits of my HopOn-HopOff city tour was a river cruise. This is truly the way to see Prague in all of its splendor, from the Castle and Kampa Island to the Charles Bridge and the spires of the Old Town.

Photos: Prague - Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Sat, 26 Oct 2013 18:12:00 GMT

Prague - Summer 2013

Krakow, Poland; Summer 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Wed, 23 Oct 2013 22:58:00 GMT

Krakow, the cultural capital of Poland, is a wonderful city with many interesting sites. Plus it’s inexpensive and easy to navigate. Just about everyone in the tourist trade (and I'd guess 50% or more of residents aged 18 - 35) speaks English. What is not to like about Krakow!

I travelled to Krakow during the summer of 2013 while Krakow was in the midst of a heat wave. The temperatures were in the mid 90’s (F) during my week-long stay except for the last day. My hotel did not have air conditioning as I did not think it would get that hot in Krakow. In spite of the heat, my time in Krakow was very enjoyable. In addition to being a lovely city, Krakow is very inexpensive! Hotels, restaurants tourist attractions are very inexpensive. At the time of my visit, the US dollar was valued at 3.26 Polish Zloty. I spent about $110 per day for the hotel (with a private toilet and shower), meals and all activities (this did not include transportation to and from Krakow, but it did include all transportation during my stay).

My hotel was in an excellent location, about a 3 minute walk to the Main Market Square. A 10 minute walk takes you from the train station to the Main Market Square. There is a large shopping mall almost adjacent to the Train Station, with a large supermarket and every type of shop imaginable. There is also a small grocery store about a 3 minute walk from the Main Market Square (and a 1 minute walk from my hotel) - - be warned though, some of the staff in the store are not very tourist-friendly. A great place to eat breakfast (inexpensively) is just around the corner from my hotel. I even found a laundry named Frania’s Café about a 15 minute walk from the Main Market Square where I washed my clothes before continuing on my trip to Prague. At Frania’s Café, you can enjoy a beer or coffee and use the free wi-fi while your clothes are washing.

When I was in Krakow, I spent a week exploring as much of the city as possible. About half of my time was spent in or around the Old Town, with a lot of that spent in the Main Market Square. In addition to the Old Town, I visited Kazimierz (the Jewish Quarter), Podgorze (near the Jewish Quarter and where Schindler’s Factory Museum is located), Las Wolski (the Forest) and Kościuszko Mound (a very large hill created to honor a national hero - - there are great views of all of Krakow from here). I also went on a tour of Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration camp where 1,500,000 people were murdered by the Nazis during World War II (most of the victims were Jewish).

Krakow is a great city for walking. If you get “temporarily lost”, it is easy to find your bearings with the river, the steeples of the Old Town, or the “Planty”. The Planty is a lovely green space that was created where the Old Town defensive wall was located. Because the Planty surrounds the Old Town and is shaded by lovely trees, it is a great place to stroll. You can walk from one end of the Old Town to another in about 15 minutes (from the Florian Gate to Wawel Castle). I walked almost everywhere I went, except for my trip to Las Wolski, Kościuszko Mound and the tour of Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration camp. The public buses were easy to use and got me to the places that were outside of the center of Krakow.

During my stay, I met a lot of wonderful people - - from France, Italy, England, Scotland, Brazil and of course from Poland. I did not see many people from the United States. The people I met were very friendly (except for the staff at the grocery store near my hotel). The Tourist Information Office in the Main Market Square is very helpful. It is located in the “Cloth Hall” in the Main Market Square. They know just about everything and can help you find directions, get tour or concert tickets, provide maps, and even tell you how to get to the nearby Laundromat. Another great thing about Krakow - - cars stopped for pedestrians, even taxis! After having recently been in Ukraine (where the traffic is very unforgiving toward pedestrians), it was a welcome change.

About the only thing I didn’t like about Krakow were the bicycle riders - - they went very fast, weaving between people in even the most crowded areas. I was afraid of getting hit if I was not careful. Even in the very crowded Market Square many did not seem to care about pedestrians while they sped through the Square.

I referenced several sources before travelling to Krakow, including: Rick Steves’ Eastern Europe, Frommer’s Europe, Rough Guide’s Europe on a Budget, Lonely Planet-Europe on a Shoestring, Europe by Eurail and Let’s Go Europe (all books), as well as Rick Steves’ Europe PBS Television Show (available on DVD) and Dennis Callan on YouTube. Even though I enjoyed all of them, I found Rick Steves material the most informative and thorough.

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Krakow.

In and around the Main Market Square:
- The Barbican (whats left of the defensive wall)
- I walked around the entire Planty (trees and green space after wall taken down)
- Enterered the Old Town by walking through the Florian Gate and down Floriańska Street – the heart of historic (and tourist) district.
- Guided tour of the magnificent St. Mary’s Church that has one of the largest gothic altarpieces in Europe.
- I spent a lot of time around Main Market Square, claimed to be one of Europe’s largest and most enjoyable public areas. Lonely Planet stated (I believe) that it is Europe’s largest Medieval Town Square.
- Cloth Hall, in the center of Main Market Square, built during the Renaissance and formerly one of the major centers of international trade
- I had a guided tour of the magnificent St. Mary’s Church that has one of the largest gothic altarpieces in Europe.
- The Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art in the “Cloth Hall” at the Main Market Square.
- Church of St. Adalbert, the oldest church in Kraków (10th century). I saw a chamber orchestra at the church.
- Mary Magdalene Square, a few blocks from Main Market Square, was Krakow’s main square hundreds of years ago.
- St. Francis’ Basilica, a beautiful Gothic church, contains some great art and stained glass windows. It was Pope John Paul’s home church while he was archbishop of Kraków.
- Archbishop’s Palace, the building that was Pope John Paul II’s residence when he was the archbishop of Kraków. He used to greet people from the window over the stone entryway.
- Church of Saints Peter and Paul, built in the late 16^th and early 17^th century, one of the earliest Baroque buildings in Krakow
- St. Andrews Church, one of the best surviving Romanesque structures in Krakow. It was built as a defensive church.
Tour of Wawel Castle and walk around the Castle Grounds walk. The Castle complex is considered by many to be the most important cultural and historical site in Poland.
- Wawel Castle, originally built in the 14^th century under Casimir the Great
- Wawel Cathedral, originally built over 900 years ago, is the sight of many royal coronations and burials.
- Inner Courtyard: designed in the Renaissance style by young Florentine artisans
- Along the outer wall there are great views of the Vistula River and greater Kraków.
- Leonard Da Vinci’s “Lady with an Ermine” is displayed at a location in the Inner Courtyard. This may be the most famous painting in Krakow.
- Wawel Castle Grounds – walking along the paths and gardens within the castle grounds provide an enjoyable experience and is not crowded in many places
- Royal Private Apartments provide elaborate chambers for the members of the royal family and its guests
Riverfront Park, between the Jewish Quarter and Wawel Castle. It was a delightful place to simply relax, with beautiful views of the castle complex.
Kazimierz (Jewish Quarter) is about a 20 minute walk from Main Market Square. I took a tour (walking) with “See Krakow” tour company. It was quite inexpensive (60 zl per person?) and the guide (Phillip) was great! We saw:
- Ghetto Heroes’ Square, a monument memorializing the Jewish population that was forced into the Ghetto prior to the destruction of the Ghetto
- Old Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz)—This small cemetery was used to bury members of the Jewish community from the 16^th to the 19^th centuries. It was desecrated by the Nazis.
- New Cemetery (Nowy Cmentarz)—A larger cemetery that has the graves of those who died after 1800.
- Synagogues—There are six different synagogues in Kazimierzitors that allow visitors. I saw a Kleshmir concert Isaac Synagogue.
- Kazimierz Market Square (Plac Nowy)— This square is much different than the Main Market Square in that it is used predominately by the neighborhood rather than toursist. A great place for shopping, people-watching, or a quick, cheap, and local lunch - - I tried a “zapiekanka”; it’s kind of like a large, inexpensive pizza on French bread – it’s delicious but must definitely be (carefully) eaten with 2 hands.
- After the tour, I saw a Kleshmir concert (Jewish folk music of the 19th century) in one of the Jewish synagogues
Near Kazimierz (Jewish Quarter), I toured the Schindler’s Factory Museum . It was made famous by the Spielberg’s movie “Schindler’s List”, and is about 10 minutes beyond the other Kazimierz sights—it’s just across the bridge.
I went to Las Wolski (Krakow forest) by taking bus number 134. It leaves from ‘Stadion Cracovia’ near the Błonia and drops passengers off at the Zoo in the centre of the forest. There are many walking and biking trails; however all of the signs are in Polish.
Kościuszko Mound, a large, tall artificial hill created to honor the national hero Tadeusz Kościuszko. You can walk to the top for grand views of the countryside and of all of Krakow. I also took bus 134 to get here. It drops you off about 1 to 2 miles (straight, no turns) from the mound, but the walk uphill is beautiful.
Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration camp took the entire day. I used the “See Krakow” package guided tour (I believe it was about 130 zł per person - www.cracowcitytours.pl; it included an air conditioned mini-bus transportation from Main Market Square). This very memorable site is very large, and the indoor exhibits are quite crowded. I didn’t realize that of all the people who arrived at the concentration camp, 75% were immediately gassed; only about 25% were sent to work in the camp; the vast majority of workers died from disease or starvation. And though I knew the camp was liberated by Soviet troops, I did not realize that the troops were from the Ukrainian military.

Krakow is a wonderful city, friendly city, steeped in culture and history. Being easy to navigate and very inexpensive, it's a great place to visit.

Photos: Krakow

james_tesol_teacher — Wed, 23 Oct 2013 21:27:00 GMT

Krakow

Photos: Kyiv (Ukrainian) or Kiev

james_tesol_teacher — Tue, 22 Oct 2013 13:14:00 GMT

Kiev

james_tesol_teacher — Tue, 22 Oct 2013 00:57:00 GMT

Kyiv (Ukrainian) or Kiev has a beauty and historical sites that rival those in many other European cities. It is the city where both the Ukrainian and Russian cultures were born. Its history dates back more than 1,000 years, and some buildings dating back almost as far. There are a lot of parks and other green areas. However, Russian domination over the past century or so has not been kind to Ukraine. In addition to famines caused by Soviet policies that resulted in the deaths of hundreds of thousands of Ukrainians, Ukraine’s soldiers were seen as expendable during World War II and represented an inordinate number of soldiers and deaths fighting the Nazis. Economic policies then and now treat Ukraine as inferior to Russia.

It is easy to get to most areas of Kyiv with the inexpensive Metro; stops are listed in both Ukrainian and English

Must See Sites:

Sites Near Metro Stops
- National Botanical Garden - Which one to see: Near Metro University Station or 'Druzhby Narodov
- The Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Museum of Arts
- National Philharmonic of Ukraine
- Mariyinsky Palace and Park
- The Park Vladimirskaya Gorka
- National Art Museum
- St Michael’s Monastery
- National History Museum
- Caves Monastery Complex – Lavra –
- St. Sophia’s Cathedral -
- St. Andrew’s Church –
- Shevchenko National Opera and Ballet Theatre
- Museum of the Great Patriotic War
- Monument to Great Famines
- St. Nicholas Roman Catholic Cathedral – Try to listen to an Organ and Chamber Music concert
- Florovsky Nunnery
- St. Cyril's Church
- Vydubitsky Monastery including St. George's Cathedral

University Station or Kheschatyk Station

Straight Line (a block or so) from Volodymyrska Street that Connects Opera House with St. Sofia’s – Starting opposite St. Sophias

Cross Street at Metro

Take a right down Shevchenko Blvd

St. Vladimir Cathedral

Shevchenko Blvd and Leontovicha St

Considered one of the most beautiful churches in Kyiv and is attended by many residents of Kyiv

Take a right down Volodymyrska Street

Botanical Garden

Working hours: May to August from 8.30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; September to April from 8 a.m. till dark

Taras Shevchenko – Monument

Volodymyrska Street, just beyond Taras Shevchenko Blvd

Taras Shevchenko National University (opposite Monument)

Volodymyrska Street, just beyond Taras Shevchenko Blvd

Continue Down Taras Shevchenko Blvd (opposite the Metro)

The Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Museum of Arts -

University Metro Station, Across from Taras Shevchenko National University Park

The museum’s collection occupies two ancient manors in the center of Kyiv and is divided into two parts: one is devoted to western and European art, and the other, to Oriental art.
include the sole original paintings by Diego Velázquez (‘Portrait of Infanta Margaret’) and by Giovanni Bellini (‘Madonna with Child’) in Ukraine, as well as a unique work by Francisco Goya. The museum is also proud with masterpieces by Peter Breughel Jr., Paul Rubens, Juan de Zurbarán, and other prominent European artists.

Museum of Russian Art

Bessarabian Market -

Taras Shevchenko Blvd just beyond Kheschatyk Street

central and the most famous covered market of Ukraine

Take a right down Kheschatyk Street (away from metro/ Taras Shevchenko Blvd)

Tchaicovsky National Music Academy

Kheschatyk Street at Independence Square opposite the Central Post Office by the Monument with the Globe.

Continue down Kheschatyk Street (away from metro/ Taras Shevchenko Blvd)

National Philharmonic of Ukraine -

On right at end of Kheschatyk Street at European Square at intersection of Volodymyrsky Descent not too far from the Dniper River

in Kyiv's downtown is not only one of the most popular concert halls in the country, but also a very interesting monument of architecture.

The Park Vladimirskaya Gorka

The park Vladimirskaya Gorka that stretches over the slopes of the ancient hill in Kyiv's very center. It is afavorite place for strolls and recreation of Kyiv residents and visitors
Getting here. There are two options: to ascend the upper terrace on the funicular from the subway station Poshtova Ploshcha, or to enter the park's territory from the European Square's side

Go back to European Square take left at Grushevskogo Street

National Art Museum

Opposite the Public Library on Grushevskogo Street

Opening Hours:
- Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday 10 a.m. — 5 p.m.
- Friday 12 a.m. — 7 p.m.
- Saturday 11 a.m. — 6 p.m.
- Monday, Tuesday Closed
Ticket Price: UAH 20

Continue down Grushevskogo Street (away from European Square)

Mariyinsky Palace and Park -

Located along the Dnieper River, Mariyinsky Park one of the oldest and the most beautiful parks of Ukraine
Mariyinsky Palace, built in the middle of the 18th century as a temporary residence for Empress Elizabeth, is rightfully considered to be the park’s true gem
Near the palace stands an observation deck. Breathtaking views of the Dnieper and Kyiv’s left bank open up from the deck.
Getting here: The closest subway stations to the park are ‘Maidan Nezalezhnosti’ (go in direction of the European square) and ‘Arsenalnaya’.

Return to European Square

Can Continue down Volodymyrsky Descent to the funicular and St. Sophia’s

Go back to European Square, go opposite Philharmonic uphill on Trokhsviatytelska St

St. Alexander Roman Catholic Cathedral

One block up on Trokhsviatytelska St

Continue up Trokhsviatytelska St (away from European Square)

St Michael’s Monastery , with its seven-domed cathedral.

On the opposite end of the St. Sophia Square is St Michael’s Monastery

8AM to 6PM
Rebuilt after the soviets demolished it

Walk Toward St. Sophia

Monument to Princess Olha

On the right as you leave St. Michael’s and walk toward St. Sophia’s

Monument to Bogdan Khmelnytskyi

On St. Sophia Square

As you face St. Michael’s Monastery take a right down Desiatynna Street

St Andrew’s Church

( 10am-6.30pm Thu-Tue) , baroque church built in 1754 by Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli.
Built under orders of Queen Elizabeth as her private church while living in Kyiv

To the left of St. Andrew’s Church, cross St. Andrew’s Descent, go between 2 buildings to the National Hisory Museum

National History Museum

The Museum has archaeological, ethnographic, and numismatic collections, art works and sculptures, and other exhibits.

Andriyivsky Uzviz (St Andrew’s Descent) HISTORIC STREET –

One of Kyiv’s oldest streets

Avoid the climb by taking the funicular funicular (tickets 2uah; 6.30am-11pm; Poshtova Pl) to the top of the hill, where you’ll find:
- St Michael’s Monastery , with its seven-domed cathedral.
- Heading down, you can’t miss the baroque St Andrew’s Church ( 10am-6.30pm Thu-Tue) , built in 1754 by Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli.

Walk Toward St. Sophia

St. Sophia’ Church -

World Heritage Site, the oldest in Kiev being built between 1017 and 1031
pl Sofiyska;
grounds 3uah, cathedral 40uah, bell tower 8uah;
grounds 9am-7pm, cathedral 10am-6pm;
Kyiv’s most stunning collection of medieval frescoes and mosaics,
Metro Stop: Maydan Nezalezhnosti Blue Line 217, Change at Kreschatyk Red Line 120
On the opposite end of the square is St Michael’s Monastery

Walk down Volodymyrska Street (away from St. Michael’s Monastery)

The Golden Gates -

The Golden Gates are a unique monument of Old Russian defensive constructions, one of few that remain today, it is included on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The Golden Gates appeared in the 11th century, during Yaroslav the Wise’s reign. They were a part of a powerful defensive complex, surrounding the ancient town.

Continue down Volodymyrska Street (away from St. Michael’s Monastery)

Shevchenko National Opera of Ukraine -

Volodymyrska Street

The National Opera of Ukraine is the largest musical theater in the country and one of noted opera and ballet stages of Europe.
Ticket prices are very inexpensive, with top prices for front row seats being about $25

Continue down Volodymyrska Street to Shevchenko Blvd and return to University Metro Station

Arsenelna Station

Monument to the Great Famines

Just before the Lavra Complex

Caves Monastery Complex –

Metro - just beyond the Arsenal’na metro station,
Overlooking the Dniper River
Regarded as the birthplace of Ukraine and Russian Orthodoxy
Upper Lavra - 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-6pm Oct-Mar
- Includes the Cathedral of the Dormition
- 5 story baroque Bell Tower
- Museum of Ukrainian Folk Art (10am–6pm; closed Tues; 10Hr)
- 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-6pm Oct-Mar,
Lower Lavra dawn-dusk, caves 8.30am-4.30pm)
- Church of the Raising of the Cross (daily 9am–6pm).
- Entrance to the caves is near the Church of the Raising of the Cross

Bordering the Caves Monastery Complex is a riverside park is dominated by

Rodina Mat’ (“Homeland Mother”) was raised in 1981 in memory of Kyiv’s suffering in World War II.

Constructed from plates of steel bolted together,
World War II Museum
- Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; 10Hr),
- recalling Kyiv’s two-year occupation by the Germans.
- An open-air section of the museum
  - (daily 9am–7pm; 2Hr)
  - Inside are stirring descriptions and artifacts detailing the Ukrainian experience of WWII. Several concentration camps were constructed in Ukraine and a large number of Ukrainian Jews, communists and soldiers died at the hands of the Nazis in these camps.
  - The grounds are packed with post-World War II Soviet hardware, MIG jets and rocket launchers. Rodina Mat’, the statue that symbolizes the Soviet Ukraine’s struggles against Nazi Germany during the “Great Patriotic War” (Russian Name of WWII).

Riverside park bordering the Caves Monastery Complex is dominated by

Rodina Mat’, the statue that symbolizes the Soviet Ukraine’s struggles against Nazi Germany during the “Great Patriotic War” of 1941–45.

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Other Destinations

Literary Memorial House Museum of T.G. Shevchenko -

Near St. Michaels Golden Dome Cathedral

Tarasa Shevchenko Lane 8-a

one of the three museums in Kyiv that are devoted to the prominent Ukrainian poet, dramaturge, painter, and political and social figure. Price: 10 UAH
Working hours: from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed on Friday

Chornobyl Museum -

Near Blue Line Metro Stop Ploshcha 215

lane Khorevoi, 1

Not too Far from the Florovsky Nunnery

at proulok Khoreviy 1 (Natsionalniy Muzei Chornobyl;

Price: 10 UAH
Working hours: Monday - Friday from 10a.m. till 6p.m., Saturday - from 10 a.m. till 5 p.m., closed on Sundays
Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–4.30pm;
10Hr; English-language audioguide 50Hr),
an informative and frequently moving account of the events of April 1986 – when an explosion at Chornobyl nuclear power station, about 70 miles north of Kyiv, released a radioactive plume of smoke

St. Cyril's Church - Standing on the high hill outside the historical center of Kyiv, the St. Cyril's Church is reckoned among the most valuable historical and architectural monuments of Ukraine

built in the 12th century as the main temple of the namesake monastery
The strong walls and the remoteness from the then city center helped the St. Cyril's Church to survive during the destructive Mongolian Tatar invasion of 1240
The main treasure of the ancient temple, however, is the unique frescos that survived almost completely since the 12th century.
It is one of the oldest temples that have survived since the Kyivan Rus times in nearly primeval state.

Vydubitsky Monastery-

On the opposite side of the Botanical Garden near the river

monastic complex stands on the picturesque slopes of the Dnieper River in the Vydubichi Hole, which is situated on the territory of the capital's Central Botanical Garden.
The Vydubitsky Monastery is reckoned among the oldest cloisters in Kyiv
founded here by the Old Russian Prince Vsevolod, the son of the Yaroslav the Wise, in the late 11th century
the main building of the modern monastery is the St. George's Cathedral -
- main church of Ukrainian Greek Catholics
- gem of Ukrainian baroque architecture

St. Nicholas Roman Catholic Cathedral (House of Organ and Chamber Music) -

Near Fedorova Street and Kiev Holiday Inn

Near Blue Line Metro Stop 219 Olimpiska

Walk down Street Away from metro stop 218

Spectacular building of the St. Nicholas Roman Catholic Cathedral, jutting out into the sky with two slender towers, is one of the most unusual and beautiful buildings in the Old Kyiv. Raised in untypical for Ukraine's capital Neo Gothic style, it significantly stands out against the background of other buildings

Florovsky Nunnery -

Near Blue Line Metro Stop Ploshcha 215

Frolovskaya St. 6/8

Not too Far from the Chernobyl Museum/Florovsky Nunnery

stretches at the foot of the Zamkova Mount is one of the most token and majestic sights of the ancient Podol.
interesting not only for architectural value of its buildings, created in different times and embodying different styles, but also for the fact that it is the oldest working nunnery in Kyiv.

Askold Grave -

The Askold Grave is a picturesque part of the park complex stretching over the slopes of the Dnieper's right bank.

Nearby Kyiv

The Museum of Folk Architecture and Life in Pirogovo - +38(044)5265765
Krasnoznamenna St. 1

Price: 20 Uah

Hours: 10AM to 5PM

Getting here: The bus №172 that departs from Blue Line subway station 221‘Lybidskaya’ goes directly to the entrance of the museum. Route taxis №3, №156 and trolley №11 also go in the direction of the Pirogovo village.

Dendropark Oleksandriya -

+38(04463)40551

Bila Tserkva, 50-richchya Peremohy Blvrd.

Price: 10 UAH

Working hours: from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., closed on Tuesday

Getting there. Regular buses and route taxis go from Kyiv to Bila Tserkva. In particular, they depart from the railway station, Blue Line subway station 221‘Lybidskaya’ and Odesa Square

Stretching over the western outskirts of Bila Tserkva, not far from Kyiv, the Dendropark Oleksandriya is considered to be one of the most beautiful and charming landscape parks in the country.

Culture and History Center ‘Park Kyivan Rus’ -

+38(044)4619937

village Kopachev

Working hours: from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays; on weekdays - by agreement

Getting here. It is possible to reach the ‘Park Kyivan Rus’ by a route bus that departs from the Green Line metro station 319 Vydubychi every two hours starting at 10 a.m. The ride costs 20 UAH and lasts 45 minutes.

recipes.

Lviv Ukraine: 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Mon, 21 Oct 2013 21:37:00 GMT

Lviv (pronounce la veeve) is a city in western Ukraine near the Polish border. Some people believe that Lviv is the most beautiful city in Ukraine as well as its cultural capital. The city center has a number of historical buildings and is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. I spent 3 days in Lviv in 2013. The architecture is more western European rather than eastern European as in other parts of the Country.

Because this part of Europe has seen a lot of conflict over the centuries, Lviv has been occupied by many different powers. Lviv has been part of Poland, Russia, the Soviet Union, the Austrian Empire, and Nazi Germany. Whereas the vast majority of Ukrainians are Orthodox Christians, due to its former ties to Poland the predominant religion in Lviv is Catholicism (although at one time more than one-fourth of Lviv’s population was Jewish).

Many younger people speak English, but it is difficult to communicate in Lviv if you do not know Russian or Ukrainian. Of course, there are many tourists in Ukraine who do speak English and they may be able to assist if you have questions as I did. The staff at my hotel did speak English, and I met some other tourists from Poland who also spoke English. Oftentimes the best means of communication is to politely point. The city may not have all the comforts that are available in other cities in Central or Western Europe, but as it expands its tourism industry this is bound to change (along with more crowds and higher prices).

The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was in Lviv. Because I did not have a camera with me while I was in Lviv, the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org; I have cited the author on each picture.

Dominican Church – Although the Dominican order has been reportedly in Lviv since the 13^th century, this church was built in the mid-18^th century in the Baroque style.
Lviv Opera and Ballet Theatre - All but the ticket office was closed when I noticed a side entrance was open to allow the sound and light crew to work on an upcoming show. I snuck in and walked throughout this beautiful music house. It was built around 1900 in the baroque and renaissance style.
Lviv City Hall – The City Hall is in the center of town at Rynok Square (Market Square). It was built in the early 19^th century. From its clock tower there are great views of Lviv. It is a long climb – from the ground level I counted 409 steps.
Jesuit Church and Taras Shevchenko Memorial – Located in the Old Town, This was built in the early 17^th century. At the time of construction, it was one of the largest churches in Poland.
Dormition or Assumption Orthodox Church - Built at the end of the 16^th century in the Renaissance style, this building is in the Old Town.
Rynok or Market Square (Ukrainian: Ploshcha Rynok) – Originally created in the Middle Ages, it remains Lviv’s main square. Many of the buildings date back to the 16^th century.
Lviv Art Gallery – This is one of Ukraine’s largest art galleries. It contains predominately Polish and Ukraine art, but also houses work of artists from throughout Europe including some impressive Dutch paintings. The gallery is located in a former palace in the center of the city.
Armenian Cathedral – This is one of the oldest buildings in Lviv, dating back to the 14^th century. The Soviets used it as a storage facility and damaged some of the interior including artworks. It has been restored.

Lviv is a beautiful city and it has a reputation as being one of the most vibrant cities in Ukraine. By central and western European standards, it may seem a bit neglected. But by those same standards, it is a very inexpensive city to visit. Another benefit is that there are not unmanageable tourist crowds as there are in other cultural centers.

Lviv was the first vacation destination I visited outside of the United States in several years. Other than the sights listed above, I did not have any plans mapped out. Unfortunately, I did not plan this trip as well as I should have, although I did have a very good time basically wondering through Lviv. I would like to revisit Lviv as the first time I visited I did not do as much research about the sights; in looking back over my notes, and doing some more research, I realize that there are so many other things to see and do in Lviv.

Photos: Lviv, Ukraine: 2013

james_tesol_teacher — Mon, 21 Oct 2013 19:45:00 GMT

Lviv, Ukraine: 2013

Dnepropetrovsk Ukraine

james_tesol_teacher — Sun, 20 Oct 2013 21:24:00 GMT

Dnepropetrovsk (Ukrainian Dnipropetrovsk) used to be a “closed city” during the Soviet era. What this means is that “outsiders” were not allowed into the city because the city was the manufacturing and technology center for many military and government secrets. People tell me that US nuclear weapons were not pointed at Moscow as a first strike but at Dnipropetrovsk. Apparently, rockets and other technologies used in the production of nuclear missles were made here.

Today, Dnepropetrosk is still a manufactuing hub. I have been in Dnepropetrovsk a few times because I have friends here. The people that I met are friendly and helpful. There are many pleasant sites here, and the weather is not too cold or hot (January avgerages: 30 F high, 20 F low, July 83 F and 63F). Some younger people speak English, but most people do not speak or understand English. Therefore, it is difficult to communicate here if you do not know Russian or Ukrainian. According to locals, there are no medical facilities where the staff understand English, so keep that in mind. Also, it is not safe to drink the tapwater, so make sure to buy bottled water. Be very wary of traffic; people do not slow down for pedestrians - - even when pedestrians are in a cross-walk and there is a walk signal.

Dnepropetrovsk is a city of contrasts: there are professionals working as engineers and IT professionals as well as transients who wander from dumpster to dumpster looking for food and other items. People line up on the corner to take the buses (called Marshrutkas) while others speed by in their Mercedes or BMWs; the health club is busy in the morning and at night people are downing vodka and fattening foods. Hard working street cleaners barely eek out a living (I’m told $200 per month) yet for a small country Ukraine surprisingly has people on the list of “richest people”.

Some of the fiercest fighting in World War II occurrred in Ukraine. Much of Dnepropetrovsk was destroyed during World War II, so many historical buildings are lost to the ages. The information below is a summary of the sites and activities I enjoyed while I was here. I was not allowed to take pictures inside churches. Therefore, some of the pictures in this blog were obtained from WikiMediaCommons at www.commons.wikimedia.org; I have cited the author on each picture.

Lenina Boarkwalk – A long boardwalk next to the Dneiper River that runs between the downtown and Shevchenko Park.
Shevchenko Park – the largest park in Dnepropetrovsk that is adjacent to the Dneiper River. People enjoy strolling, picnicking, playing sports and games, and children enjoy amusement rides.
Monastyrsky Island – Connected to Shevchenko Park by a bridge, it is the site of the St. Nickolay Church, sculptures, statues and gardens.
Globa Park – An inner city park that offers visitors a place to stroll, play games, enjoy amusement rides and relax.
Lenin Park – Not too far from Globa Park, children can enjoy the playground equipement and it is lit up by an enormous display of lights during the New Year and Christmas season.
The Transfiguration Cathedral – Planned during the reign of Catherine the Great of Russia, this was inteneded to be one of the largest Orthodox churches in greater Russia.
Museum of History and the Diorama displaying the Battle for the Dnieper River – interesting museum of the history of Denpropetrovsk, including its role in the evacuation of Chernobyl Nuclear Power Station, Russian Revolution, and the mighty Cossacks.
Potemkin Palace at Shevchenko Park
'Gorky' Theatre of Russian Drama
“Soviet Block” Architecture – much of the city was rebuilt after World War II in simple, concrete structures. Although often referred to in a slightly amused manner, it’s amazing that people were able to move into homes so quickly after WWII as the result of this massive public works project.

Photos: Dnepropetrovsk Ukraine

james_tesol_teacher — Sat, 19 Oct 2013 21:29:00 GMT

Dnepropetrovsk Ukraine