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BELGIUM | Tuesday, 23 March 2010 | Views [1209] | Comments [5]

Whoever said 'life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans' was a wise man - or more likely woman. There we were, happily going about our day last Sunday: a drizzly day in Utrecht, but warm and in the warm company of one of my old students, Esther, and her mama, who had travelled over an hour on the train just to see us - and to kindly buy us poor weary travellers some lunch. As they left, Loca Lulu (who I'd met for just two days in Argentina two years ago) took their place and joined us for a glass of wine, inspiring us with her own special brand of enthusiasm and energy. That night, chilling out near the border, busy making our plans to travel swiftly through Belgium and into France, life happened.

Our connection with them was instant: Dovile, a feline Lithuanian princess with velveteen voice who seemed to glide through life on a cloud much as I do, and her man Ravid - more down to earth, realistic, cynical, sardonic, charming beyond belief. Basically Huwbut Israeli.

Just over the border for the night, they actually lived in Antwerp where they ran a restaurant/bar together, the Art Lounge. We were heading that way anyway the next day, and popped in for a drink. And that's when the doors of the Hotel California were opened.

On the first day, the others were all busy so I took Ravid's Yorkshire Terrier Bobby for a two hour walk, getting to know the city in the best possible way - by getting completely lost. Bobby was no help. Rarely venturing that far, his homing instincts were useless. Eventually we found ourselves on Cogels Osylei, a street recognisable from its stunning architecture. In 1904 the local well-to-do had a competition to design and build the best house along this street. Each employed the best architect they could afford, and the result is this stunning stretch of houses, each more beautiful than the last, with turrets, climbing ivy and stained glass. In the 1970s they fell in popularity and housed hippies, and no doubt insanely cool parties. Their 'des res' status has now returned, so any stoner who hung onto his lot will find his investment multiplied nearly ten fold. You'll find number 88, the Art Lounge, at the end on the corner.

I spent my 29th birthday, feverish but co-codamolled-up (thanks Sar) and very very happy, working the bar, taking orders to Dovile and Huw in the kitchen, hearing the life tales of the steady stream of customers who wandered, strolled or staggered in to prop up the bar.

It seemed Antwerp's most colourful characters were drawn in by the red-lit hearts in the windows, the velvet seats, Ravid's chilled music mixes. A man in his 60s, elated that he was finally divorcing his wife after 40 years. Another man, on his 6th wife, this time Brazilian: "I'm not a playboy, it's just bad luck." A slurry ex-rock chick in leather jacket. Rudy the teacher who, protesting that he never smokes or drinks, smoked a whole packet of fags and sunk half a bottle of whisky one sunny afternoon. Lenny, the once famous saxophonist from New Jersey (who made my night when leaving at 1am by saying, as I locked the door behind him, "It makes me happy just to look at you." Woweee.) The student, eyes barely open, scraping together his cents for a beer and who in answer to my question "So where else did you go in London besides Carnaby Street?" replied "I think she was Catholic. Or some other Christian denomination. Or perhaps an emancipated Moslem." What?!

Thursday was a big day for Dovile and Ravid and we offered our sevices again: the least we could do for our free board and lodging. 25 came for lunch (Huw and Dovile cooked what Bernie the godlike chef had prepared the night before and Ravid and I served with a smile and cheeky chatter) and 100 suits arrived in the evening for a corporate networking session in the upstairs bar. Sexy, restless soul Gianni was brought in to help, and my night ran like a dream with him by my side at the bar.

Each day we said "tomorrow we'll leave" but each day the charm of the place and its people held us there. Brighton people - sound familiar?!

Eventually, having arrived on the Monday morning, we left on Saturday afternoon, all four with a tear in our eye but two new friends, heading south towards Ieper and a more sombre but important part of our trip.

For our photos in Belgium, click here.

Comments

1

Life's what happens when you're busy making other plans, was, I'm afraid, said by a man...John Lennon himself, it was written in a song Beautiful Boy, about the birth of his son...lovely song.
Sounds like you're having a ball babe xxx

  Annabelle Mar 23, 2010 6:16 AM

2

Welcome to the Hotel California... such a lovely place :))))))) guys, you are greatly missed!!!!

  Ravid & Dovile Mar 23, 2010 7:27 AM

3

Hello you 2 lovely people!

GREAT story; LOVE the way you (2) write!!!

Haha, exactly what we talked about in Utrecht; "life is what happens to you while you're making other plans". I'll try to keep up with all the stories and DEFINATELY will follow you (virtually) around the globe. Who knows even planning a visit in... Africa??? Spain???

Good luck & have a safe but exciting trip!

Abrazo,
La Loca Lulu
x

PS: Will you send me the picture of the teddybear & us 3 on the bridge? NICE! ;-)

  Marlou Mar 24, 2010 8:27 PM

4

Just found your blog .... was wondering the other day if you had managed to set sail yet ... you both write in the way I wish I could (but can't as evidenced by rereading my travel diaries from when I was young!) ... Please get to argentina by February 2011 ... we are getting married there! xxx

  Anna Sadnicka Mar 27, 2010 2:30 AM

5

I had a lovely time whit you guys. Rose you are my little paddewan who did it very well together with me behind and in front off the bar. I hope you actually learned who to tap some beer the belgium way!!! the only WAY !!! hihhi ;-) i hope in the future we can ever meet again, because after your tour you will have to come over and tell us all about you history's and adventures you went true!! and H, you rock my friend, such a pleasure working whit you and you are an OK DUDE!!!! take care and watch out for you're flower rose and enjoy life like it comes!!!! i hear you soon my new friends , big huges and kissen from the restless one Baby G ciao xxxxx

  Gianni Mar 31, 2010 6:26 PM

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