This is our last evening in South-East Asia. Tomorrow, we shall start our journey eastwards to the U.S. (via Japan). I am trying to process everything we have learned about the history of Cambodia these past few days. It is not a happy story. And we have not even gotten to the Khmer Rouge bit of it - the killing fields are on program for tomorrow morning.
We have actually spent most of our time here admiring the splendor of the Hindu and Buddhist temples built between the 10th and the 13th century. Rightly so, for these monuments are unique and testify of the "golden age" of the Cambodian empire. The Angkor Wat is a magnificent monument, not only impressive because of its size, but also for the intricate carvings all over the outside walls and over the gates. It is a mini replica of the universe, with the central tower symbolizing the mythical mount Meru (Mt Everest). The three tiers (layers) symbolize the judgement of mankind with the highest level being equal to heaven. Only the king was allowed to go there on special occasions and as part of an elaborate ceremony. This website has a beautiful description of the architecture and symbolism of the temple if you are interested to read more.
Another temple that we enjoyed exploring was the Banteay Srei. Almost two centuries older than the Buddhist Angkor Wat, this is a Hindu temple made of red sandstone and intricate carvings that depict some of the Hindu legends. Next to the temple, a group of talented musicians were playing on traditional instruments. They turned out to be survivors of landmines that through music tried to make a living for their families.
A particular favorite with the children was the Ta Prohm temple (think Tomb Raider). Built as a Buddhist monastery in the 12th century, it was abandoned and neglected after the fall of the Khmer empire in the 17th century. Under the French, it was decided that this temple would not be "freed" from its entanglement with the jungle. The tall old trees growing on, in and around the massive stone structures give it an absolutely unique look.
In between the temple viewing, we conversed with our guide, which gave us a sense of what life is like for the ordinary Cambodian. He grew up on a farm, but decided to try and make a better living in the city of Siem Reap. He seems to be doing alright as a tourist guide, but income fluctuates and the low season can therefore be difficult. He has a strong aversion to (what he perceives as) the Vietnamese influence over Cambodian politics / economy and notes that dissatisfaction with the current prime minister of the country (an autocrat who has been in position for over 25 years) is now widespread among the population. Understandably!
It was interesting to contrast his recount of recent history and view of the current political situation with what we learned from reading Wikipedia and from speaking with a very knowledgeable American gentleman who works at the Cambodian land mine museum. History is such a tricky thing! Visiting the museum was depressing, but very interesting. We learned that the U.S. executed over 120.000 air raids over Cambodia. This means that thousands and thousands of bombs are still spread out all over the eastern and northern border. In addition, the Khmer Rouge and different militants active during the civil war laid out millions of landmines. Because the mines were not laid by state military, there is no mapping. And there are still between 3 and 6 million landmines undetected, waiting for the next victim. Hundreds of people therefore get mutilated each year. The museum we visited is run by an organization that supports those who clear the mines as well as the victims. They also run a children's home and founded many rural schools in the region. Inspiring.
This country has a brutal history and a long way to go still. Yet most people get up in the morning and get a good day's work done, they get married, have children, celebrate, mourn. People all over the world have so much in common. Good night.
