As the 5 star Bolivian bus rattles itself to an early grave through the Bolivian mountain pass to the Chilian border, the teeth in our heads start to loosen due to the heavy virbration as we pretend to sleep. In my fake dreams i cant help but contemplate our nobles steeds 5 star rating. A star for heating(bring your own blanket), a star for music (the bolivian beat boys on board), A star for TV (thinking they mean the discovery channel views out the window, if only the god dam ice on the inside would melt), A star for a bar (bring your own and get wasted) and finally a star for sleeping (only if you visited star no. 4 and pass out). It did state clearly on the side that it was a ´´CONFORT BUS´´ , and a successful con it was.
As the sun rises we find ourselves at 3500 Meters in a valley of dust surrounded by snow peaked mountains. Surreal scenery you would think but this scrape yard of deserted trains of old is ´´Ollague´´ the Bolivian / Chilean border and our new home for the next 9 hours. We clear the bolivian customs with ease and as long as you pay the hefty one euro fifty cents (each i tell you!) they were happy to see the back of us. Unfortunate the Chilians were not so forth coming and left us to contimplate our arrival shivering in the dust in no mans land. With books read to death and hyperthermia a toenail away we are finaly processed and allowed to board our new steed, a bus that never exceeded a 2 star rating even in its hayday, but the rattely bus ride down the far side of the Andes is in good humour assisted by our happy chilian driver and the knowledge that hot water and toilet paper may no longer be the things of folklore!
