Day one
We hired a mountain bike each and after breakfast we cycled from Siem Reap along some insane roads (they drive on the right here but sometimes they choose to drive against traffic on the left!!!) to the angkor temple complex (8km). We arrived at the impressive Angkor Wat first but had decided on an alternative Angkorian exploration to try and avoid the tour groups, so left Angkor wat behind and headed straight for the Angkor Thom complex with bayon at its centre. It was amazing every stone was carved or inscribed and the huge four sided faces were stunning (There are 54 gothic towers, each decorated with 4 huge faces, 216 in total).We were still surrounded by other tourists, annoying as it was we knew no temple was going to be empty. Before heading on we explored phimeanakas temple, the terrace of elephants and a few other small temples.
Heading out of the east gate we carried on to Ta Prohm temple, one of the most well known tree temples in the complex. This temple was commissioned in 1186 AD by king jayavarman VII and dedicated to his mother. We were too late....... the tour buses had descended, we found a few quiet corners and I scrambled up some piles of ruins to find some great views but soon found others following me (grrrrr). The trees growing out of the walls were impressive and Sarah couldn't resist the odd Lara croft pose. Hot and tired we headed on to Sra Srang, once the royal bathing pools. We were hoping for a lovely view over a huge pool but unfortunately it had been left to the elements, the water was stagnant and the stone walls and statues ruined beyond recognition. We didn't stop long, deciding instead to head to Angkor wat for sunset. The circuit completed we had done 17km in the 35 degree (and high humidity) afternoon heat. We made it into Angkor Wat and found a shady spot to sit, rest & rehydrate. The complex looked daunting and we were both exhausted and knew we still had a half hour ride back so reluctantly we decided to leave exploring Angkor Wat until the next day, hopefully refreshed enough to enjoy it more.
Day two
430 am alarm call, left at 5am and cycled in the dark from Siem Reap back to the temple complex, again we wanted to avoid the worst of the tour bus traffic so instead of sunrise at Angkor Wat with thousands of others we carried on past it to Phnom Bakheng. A hill temple built by Silverman I (889-910), it has 5 tiers and 7 levels. We climbed the hill by torch light to find only a few other spectators and a quiet peaceful atmosphere. It was a cloudy morning so sunrise wasn't the spectacular seen in photographs but it was beautiful and atmosperic, well worth the early start.
From Phnom Bakheng we headed through the Angkor Thom complex with a brief stop for photos in the early morning light and left as everyone else was arriving. This time we headed out the north gate and straight for Preah Khan, one of the largest complexes at Angkor. While still quiet we explored in the morning light, again very beautiful in a tumbled down sort of way with tree-walls, vines, stone carvings and inscriptions but we were beginning to feel a bit 'templed out'. We pushed on to Preah Neak Poan a water temple built in the late 12th century by Jayavarman VII. We followed a sodden walk way through a flooded forest which was quite eerie to the temple......not impressive more stagnant water and a lot of imagination needed, I'm sure it was amazing in its day. Apparently theirs rumours that when the Angkor casino is eventually but inevitably developed at las Vegas, Preah Neak Poan will provide the blue print for the ultimate swimming complex!!
Next up Ta Som and then on to Pre Rup, famed for its sunset views. It was amazing, built from a reddish brick in a pyramid form with many mini temples on each layer, I can imagine it would make for a stunning sunset......but not for us. Back on the bikes we headed past Sra Srang and finished the circuit at Angkor Wat. Today's circuit was 25km again in high heat and humidity so after a quick stop for some much needed lunch (our breakfast of cheesy Pringles hadn't lasted long) we finally braved Angkor Wat, it was staggering. Out of all of the temple Angkor Wat has never been abandoned to the elements and has been in nearly continuous use since it was built and it shows. It was in much better condition than any other temple and the grounds were immaculate. We managed an hour of exploring before giving into exhaustion, we found a shady spot and a cold drink for a quick rest before saying goodbye to the temple complex and slowly cycling back to Siem Reap.
Day Three
After an amazing but exhausting two days of cycling the temples today is a rest day. We planned a lie-in but as its wedding season here a local family chose today to start the wedding celebrations.....at 5am with a loud speaker and very loud music as is tradition!!!!! Apparently the music is loud to let the town know and as an invitation, sending out invites might be the way forward 😕. We headed out for breakfast and stumbled on a fab cafe that did the best cooked breakfast since we left home and I had a soya latte....yay 😀😀. Fuelled and ready we headed to the markets for more hassle and bargaining! By mid afternoon we were ready for a rest and took cover in a cafe with iced fruit shakes. The rest of the day holds more exploring of markets and little lanes to see what bargains can be had 😀. Tomorrow more temples but this time by Tuk Tuk further out of town in the jungle.
