Day 18 - MON - 1/10/12 - Cairo, Egypt
The overnight bus to Cairo was adventurous as the one from Jerusalem to Eilat had been, except instead of toilet stops, it was security checkpoints - 4 of themwith police in plain clothes again so you didn't really know who was asking to see your visa and passport unless you asked a local.
The most interesting was the whole bus being unloaded at one of them - people and luggage all off - for them to search for something (or to see if there were any unattended luggage on the bus). I'm still not sure what they were looking for and I don't think they did either though!
Once we made it to Cairo with the sun coming up, we did as the locals did and wandered across 6 lanes of traffic to try to find the Metro with the aid of Kearnsy's compass. We would have been ok, except asking for directions even the 3 Arab's rule didn't work out as we had been dropped ata different bus station; so the search was futile.
Having read the Lonely Planet, we flagged down a black and white Pergeot clunker and negotiated a rate on the side of the 8 lane highway. I say lane but they don't actually stick to them. They just seem to pick a gap and go for it!
Arriving at our hostel, Miami Hostel we were greeted warmly, checked in, baggage stowed and tour explainations all underway within 1/2 hr of being there. Being that we were in the Tahrir district we were on one of the busiest streets (Telahat) with great markets, an amazing bakery across the street, 26 July Street (no street signs Riss, otherwise I would have gotten a snap for you!) and a short walk to Tahrir Square (where the protests happen) and the Egyptian Museum. Our room was surprisingly quiet though for such a central location.
We were asked what we were interested in seeing and how long we were in Cairo for. we said "Pyramids, Egyptian Museum, Nile Cruise and the Old City if we have any time left as we had under 2 days as we needed to leave for our flight at 6pm tomorrow".
Ahmed then sketched out all the options and prices for us - (10LE = £1)
Giza Pyramids & Spinx 60LE to get into the park and an additional 100LE and 35LE to get into the first and second pyramids at Giza respectively.
From there you can drive 9km to Sakkra. Sakkra is 60LE to get into the park area. It has the oldest pyramid which is actually a stepped pyramid called Titi which you can enter for free with your park entry payment.
From there you can drive another 5km to Dahsour. Dahsour is 30LE for entry and has a white pyramid and a red pyramid which you can enter for free with the park payment. The experience is a trek into the middle down a 65m tunnel into the side of the pyramid via the 'gate'.
We were also told about a Nile Cruise, not on a Feluca but an evening cruise to see the city with dinner and a show for 170LE.
The Egyptian Museum is 60LE with the Royal Mummy Room costing an extra 100LE.
The Old City is broken up with key interest areas - Islamic Quarter with the Citadel being 50LOE and 2 mosques for 25LE; and the Coptic Quarter with 2 free churches. It also has Kan Glilcaily which is a market area.
After an explaination of these terrific ideas, We decided to do the Pyramid tour with a driver/ guide for 100LE, the Nile Cruise and then the Egyptian Museum the next day and get to the Old City if there was time.
So after popping down to the bakery and getting some very fresh crossaints and pizza for the day, as well as some delicious and cheap pisstacios and cashews, our driver Hamil arrived and we headed off.
There was so much information given by the driver and our first stop was the Pyramids of Giza. There was of course the obligatory sell when we got out of the cab with being husseled into a small room, being offered tea and then discussing horse and camel risdes in the Giza park area to get around the 12km park. We politely declined and paid the entry to walk around the park site.
We came across the Spinx first which was carved out of 1 solid block of limestone whcih was leftover from the construction of Pyramid 2. It measures 40m x 4m and was created to guard Pyramid 2 to make anyone approaching the Pyramid warey. The design represents the King; the king of humans and the king of animals. It is the body of a lion to show he was strong like a lion and the head of a man to show he was smart like a man.
In the immediate area there is actually 9 pyramids. 3 large ones and 6 small ones with 3 more pyramids each next to 1 and 3. The large ones were built by 3 generations of Kings. Pyramid 1 is the largest and the first in the set which was built by the 'grand-dad', pyramid 2 was built by the 'father' and pyramid 3 was built by the 'granson'. Therefore the 3pyramids flanking pyramids 1 and 3 were built to house tombs for the mother, wife and sister of each King; hence it was not necessary for King 2 'father'. Pyramid 1 was originally overlaid with onyx, pyramid 2 was limestone and pyramid 3 was granite.
Pyramids 1 and 3 have been partially destroyed with the outside layers being removed by the Arabs to create the Grand Mosque in the Old City in Cairo.
We recieved a tour from a guide into the mother's tomb of Pyramid 1 and hyragliphics on the walls outside the tomb as the entry was included in our park entry price. We got to touch pyramid 1 too! Unfortunately there was immense pressure to get a tip from the guide. Fortunately for us though we did not take much money with us, having prepared for this from reading the Lonely Planet guide.
On leaving the park we were absconded by a camel ride operator. This was done by a headwrap made for me with my own scarf by the operator and Kearnsy being picked up and put onto a camel. Our camera was then taken off us to take a picture of both of us and we were told it would be given back if we gave him payment for a photo. We said we didn't have any money as we didn't want to give any. I remembered Kearnsy had a £2 GBP coin as they were still pressuring us but they still weren't happy. I managed to grab the camera and we walked towards the tourist police who was with the guide that had showed us the pyramid and we told them what had happened and headed towards the Spinx to have another look.
Leaving the park we were driven to Sakkra. On the way we stopped at a Papyrus Museum and store. The process was explained to us how they flood the fields for Papyrus reeds to grow, as well as growing along the Nile. They are then picked/ cut, soaked and put through the ringer. Once wrung out they are laid in a woven pattern and put into a press to dry. We bought Alan's Mum Joy a picture here for her birthday - Happy Birthday Joy!! - with her name hand written in hyrogliphics. It also had a hand painted picture of geese which mean peace and the lotus flower which means love.
It was at this museum we were also shown a kartoush depiciting the Final Judgement that Egyptians believed would happen when you pass over, to test if you can cross to the afterlife and paradise. It shows 14 judges. This is repeated 114 times in Titi's tomb at our next stop Sakkra. The reason for 114 is that there are 14 judges and 100 questions asked by the judges before you are deemed one way or another.
Also on the way to Sakkra I noticed lots of rubbish was dumped on the side of the river to build up the banks. It was then set fire to it to reduce the stench and size of the pile and left to burn itself out.
At Sakkra we saw the stepped pyramid and also went down 25m into Titi's pyramid to see his tomb to see the wall as well as in hyraglyphics. Inside there is an anti-chamber for storing all the items required for the afterlife. The room can be seen for the tomb (so they can keep an eye on it). This is also where the servents kept the body in the sarcophagus company before they sealed it away.
The sarcophagus is in a tomb which ajoins the entry chamber (so anti-chamber to the left and tomb to the right) and behind the entry chamber is the outer chamber - to help preserve the tomb. Back in the pharos day it was brightly coloured withs reds, ambers, deep yellows, blues, greens and purples - all the pictures clearly depicted like paintings. these days it is more of a natural slate colour due to the exposure to light down the entry shaft.
On exiting the pyrammid on the way to the taxi, Kearnsy and I thought we would quickley have some of the pizza we had bought. Big mistake!! As soon as we rustled the bag we were surrounded by dogs! So we quietly put the bag away before they started scrapping.
Driving to Dahsour the mumification process was explained to us. After the disembalming and preservation of the organs in jars, the body is rubbed with sandlewood to make it supple, like the person had just died yesterday. They were then wrapped in bandages which had been applied with the oil of the white lotus flower which is used as a disinfectant as well as for the smell of the perfume.
On the drive we also saw many date plantations and once the dates had been removed and people were placing the fruit branches on the road for cars to drive over them. We were told this was done to soften the branches up to make fencing, broom heads, baskets etc.
Arriving at Dahsour we were told the reason one pyramid is red and one is white because of the Egyptian flag. We were told the red one was built in BC620. We set off on the decent down 65m into the bowels of the pyramid. It was very dark with some fluescent lighting having been installed to outline the entry and tunnel shape. As we descended a sulphrus smell kept getting stronger and stronger.
Inside was amazingly well preserved as a structure and had a graduated ceiling. It was hard to imagine how they got any of the artifacts in and out of the small passageway leading into the tomb. The tomb itself was quite cavernous with a stepped ceiling but we didn't stay long with the sulpherous and damp smell.
The overwhelming feelings thoughout being down there were probably awe and sadness. Awe whilst standing there because of the marvel in the feat of engineering achieved and the fact it was still standing. Sadness as these pharoahs were buried thinking they would remain so for eternity or until they reached their afterlife and they were now in museums and the life, displaced arount the world. It was very moving to be inside their final resting place.
From there we headed back to the city in peak hour traffic and we were told as we were not in a standstill and just creeping that we were doing well. But with no lanes being obeyed, it was a free for all and a few very close calls!
We arrived back at the hostel for a brief break rest and a shower before being collected for the Nile Cruise. The cruise was aboard MS Aquarius. We were entertained with great night views of Cairo, a twirling man with huge colourful shirts that were lifted above his head to make him look like a toy top swirling around the room. A midget was also doing the same thing as the warm up act and a bellydancer to top it off. The food was good and there were also some excellent pastries for dessert. It was a great night out and I'm looking forward to the Egyptian Museuum tomorrow.
