Yogyaaaakarta!
INDONESIA | Sunday, 10 August 2008 | Views [627]
Alright, so. Time to fill in the details of the last week of travelling
through Java. I thought touring around Java would be tough, but
apparently getting there was the hardest part. To start the bus left
Denpasar around two o'clock in the afternoon and I was rather harshly
kicked off in rough Javanese (I had no idea what the driver was saying)
at around six o'clock in the morning the next day. Not only was I
starving the whole trip (for some reason I thought food wasn't going to
be an issue), there was no toilet on the bus or ANY stops... so I was
definitely feeling the pressure towards the end of the trip as I made
the mistake of filling up on water when I realized that we weren't going
to be eating any time soon. As soon as I got kicked off the bus onto
the street, about a dozen bechak (traditional bicycle-type transport)
drivers descend down upon me like a dead carcass and start yelling at me
in Javanese and I think I literally stood there for a minute, just
trying to take in the situation and what was going on around me in that
ridiculously scary, cold, hungry, and tiring environment. Eventually I
found an older driver that was the only one to not be breathing down my
throat, so I showed him the address to a Losmen I had gotten out of
Lonely Planet and we were off. It wasn't until I got to the Losmen, Peti
Mas, that I was able to communicate with anyone and I finally calmed
down after a big plate of nasi goreng and a shower.
After
re-grouping, I hit the streets and ended up meeting up with a
university student named Fajar who was nice enough to hang out with me
here and there over the next few days and act as my translator/camera
man/guide/savior!! I think he felt bad when he saw me standing on the
side of the street just looking around at all of the Javanese signs with
utter confusion strewn across my face. I can only describe Yogyakarta
as a huge New York type city, which can be intimidating in itself, but
when there is a complete language barrier, things get a little more
difficult to say the least. Right off the bat, I decided to head to the
Kraton (Sultan's Palace) and ended up meeting possibly the smartest
person I know. Despite the fact that the man I met, Nursalim, had about a
fifth grade education, he speaks NINE languages and all self taught,
through meeting tourists and watching movies. Can you imagine? He was so
humble and simply laughed when I went on about how jealous I was of his
knowledge and wish we could switch brains for a year, so I could travel
the world as he spoke: Javanese, Indonesian, Malayasian, Italian,
Portuguese, Spanish, French, Dutch, and Nederlands. WOW! Anyway,
Nursalim was a nice guy and showed me around the Palace, giving me the
inside scoop and afterwards took me to his buddy's Batik Shop, so I
could watch the traditional designing pattern of layering wax and dye to
make rather intricate, and very beautiful, patterns and artwork; I
ended getting to try making something and got a lovely depiction of Rama
and Sinta! After the Batik shop, we parted ways and I headed to the
Taman Sari (Water Castle) which was the place that many of the older
sultan's rested and holiday'd. The place is essentially a series of
giant pools, kitchens, and boudoirs where the Sultan could take his
wife, girlfriend, or any woman for that matter. I was told that
traditionally, the Sultan would hide in his room and throw a flower out
the window and whichever woman was quick/strong enough to grab it first,
would win the honor of a night in the Castle with him- ooh la la! The
even sexier part of the story being that the water is considered holy,
and so no clothes are allowed, if you want to take a dip, you gotta bare
it all! In addition to the Taman Sari is an underground mosque and I
took some amazing pictures of all the secret passageways and crazy
staircases that were used to fend off and confuse outside/unwanted
intruders. While leaving the Taman Sari, I noticed a rather strange
animal market and discovered that it was the famous Ngasem (or Bird
Market) of Yogya. This market is insane, you can buy ANY animal
imaginable. Bats, cats, owls, frogs, lizards, hedgehogs.. anything; all
legal and each animal stall getting more and more exotic than the
previous one- I took some incredible pictures. And sorry to my PETA
friends, but I took up a shop owner's offer to buy a pigeon so I could
throw it into the anaconda cage and watch him eat it. Sounds gory, but
the little kid inside me really wanted to see some snake on bird
Discovery Channel action go down, haha! Despite the fact of watching the
killer scene, I still managed to have an appetite and of course found a
Padang Restaurant close by so I could load up on kare ayam while going
over maps to figure out what I would do that evening. And wow, I ended
up coming up with the perfect plan. I skype'd my new friend Fajar and
asked if he wanted to go to Prambanan temple with me to finally see a
performance of the Ramayana, and luckily he said yes! So we hopped on
his motorbike, headed out to the temple early so I could take a look
around and get some pictures in and I ended up having an incredible
night. Growing up, all of my girl pals were in love with 'Romeo and
Juliet', but I've always adored the love story of Rama and Sinta and
couldn't believe that I was finally able to see it live and for myself
and not off of an old video tape at the library. Before the actual
performance, there was a gamelan group and since I've been working with
the 'gender' instrument over the last few weeks, they let me sit in on a
song, so I felt like a real rock star as all the Ramayana-goers stared
at me, wondering what the white girl was doing on stage, haha. Of course
the performance was incredible and now I can finally cross it off the
list of things to do before I die, because it was definitely up there on
the top ten. After the show, I headed back home and headed to sleep but
got a rude awakening around five am when the Muslim call to prayer
kicked in and went on for about an hour, talk about a wake-up-call.
The
next day was equally exciting as I woke up early (well, a few hours
after the call to prayer) and somehow figured out the public bus system
of Yogya enough to transfer four buses from the inner city out to
Borobudur Temple, the largest Buddhist Temple and absolutely
breathtaking. But back to the public buses in Java. First of all, you
can smoke on the bus; so naturally, everyone does, including the bus
driver, the eight year old in the back, everyone. And instead of the
traditional bus stop where the bus slows down and halts long enough for
people to calmly get off and on, in Yogya, a guy leans out the
permanently open door, yelling that the bus is about to drive by, and
you literally have to run/jump into the bus or you'll be stranded for
another hour when the next one comes. But back to Borobudor and it's
insane beauty; I mean you really have to spend a few hours there to see
every last inch and I had a great time climbing up and down the stairs
and going through all the secret passageways and trying to follow the
carved stories in the stone walls. I was having a great time walking
around with the video camera, taking notes, when all of a sudden I had a
group of about a dozen 50+ year old men start following me. After a few
minutes, one finally approached me and asked in Indonesian if he could
have my autograph. Talk about confused! I don't know if these men had me
mixed for an Olsen Twin or what, but the whole lot, and eventually more
people later on, had me singing shirts, backpacks, pamphlets, and
anything else. Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed the fan club and all but I
still don't understand how/why I got picked out of the crowd and better
yet, who they thought I was, haha. Who knows? Anyway, after Borobudor
Temple; I went to the Indonesian equivalent of the Guinness Book of
Records and saw everything from the world's smallest painting, to
Indonesia's biggest man, etc. A real 'Ripley's' Believe It or Not' type
place, my kind of joint. After that, I was starving from not eating all
day so I got the bus back into town and found a traditional Pecel, or
Javanese, type restaurant; where I had saus kacang (peanut sauce), babat
(cow skin), and my favourite.. tempe (friend soy bean cake). Great food
and at the restaurant some boys told me about a Dangdut
(Indian-influenced Indonesian music) show going on later that night, so I
booked it to the spot and quickly felt like a dirty old man. Apparently
Dangdut shows have a 99.9% male attendance and the main reason being
that the Dangdut girls are barely dressed and really don't do much more
than sing horribly while shaking their stuff. So after a few songs and
feeling rather seedy for being one of the only women in the audience, I
took a few pictures of the band for my ethnomusic notes and headed home
where I once again slept soundly until the mosque-wake-up-call.
Over
the next few days in Yogyakarta, I tooled around town, did some
shopping, held more interviews about the Javanese style music/food, and
went to a village where they make silver jewelery the traditional way
with the air pump going under bare feet. I saw a few more Gamelan shows
and talked with a few more University students about the programs
offered and the more students here I talk to, the more and more I want
to do post-grad work here as living in Indonesia will be all the
anthropology practice I need and more, compared to sitting at a desk in
San Diego. Taking the bus back to Denpasar was equally traumatizing as I
left Yogya at two in the afternoon and didn't get off the bus until
NOON the next day. I felt like I'd been to hell and back but I had to
regroup because only a few hours after I got back, I had to wash up and
get ready for one of my Balinese friend's wedding. And wow, what a
spectacle. A picture perfect wedding at the beach with the clear blue
water and skies as the backdrop for the ceremony. I'm not a softy, but
even I was feeling the love that night. Speaking of feeling the love,
the wedding had an open bar and not in the sense of unlimited drinks,
but unlimited bottles. So of course it only took about an hour for
everyone to get real chummy and start the traditional Balinese dancing
and singing, I obviously had a great time and got some incredible
pictures.
Saturday/Yesterday was my last full day in Indonesia
and I spent it at the Sanur Village Festival. Eating all of the local
foods, watching the Gamelan/Balinese performances, and simply hanging
out with all of the friends I've made here for the last time. It was a
perfect last day. Being out with the whole community, celebrating the
local culture on one of the most incredible beaches around. I couldn't
ask for more. I was so sad to say goodbye to my friends, but I had to
meet up with my Bibi to have Padang food for the last time haha and head
home and pack up evvvverything that I've acquired over the last month
in Taiwan, Malaysia, and Indonesia. Early this morning I hit up the
local market for the last time to take a final look around and then I
hit up the Japanese Buffet, where you pay about eight US dollars for all
of the sushi, sashimi, gyoza, miso, etc. you can handle- something I
wish existed at home!! After that it was off to the airport and now I'm
here in Singapore for a bit before I have to head back home for school.
I'm feeling really mushy and lonely for Indonesia but I know that this
time next year, there won't be anything stopping me from coming back!
Well, now it's off to the hawker center to get my first taste of
Singapore!
always.