Sarawak Survival Skills
INDONESIA | Wednesday, 6 August 2008 | Views [743]
Wow! Where to start? Due to a lack of internet, or any kind of comfort
for that matter over the last two weeks, I haven't been able to sit down
and do a proper entry into this thing, so I will try to sum up the
latest adventures with as great of detail as I can.
Alright, I'm
not so sure where my last blog left off, so I'll start with the day I
left Denpasar and flew to Kuching, Sarawak (Malaysia). Needless to say I
was quite nervous on the plane ride there as I had no contacts, plans,
or a great grasp of the Malaysian language. Upon arriving, it started to
pour down raining and I had a rather emo moment as I had dinner alone
and watched the rain come crashing down around me. The only thing that
cheered me up was the fact that Ricky Martin's 'La Vida Loca' came on
and I found some comfort in having at least SOMETHING in English going
on around me. I don't know quite how to explain it, other than sometimes
here I feel like quite the freak show as people will stop and stare as I
walk down the street, eat food, actually anything really... as they
must think that western women must do things differently... but I'm sure
they are sad to come to the realization that that I love to scarf down
nasi goreng (rice) as much as they do. Anyway, moving on. After feeling
like a lost puppy in the rain walking around Kuching city, I decided to
head into a pub close to where I was staying and ended up having quite
the eventful evening. Within minutes of walking in, I had a free pitcher
of Tiger beer slopped down in front of me and ended up making some very
good friends who made the rest of my week quite a breeze with the
inside information and hot spots they shared. The first night in Sarawak
definitely was on the opposite end of the spectrum from the earlier
part of the day and I ended up partying it up with the "Headhunters"
band.
The next day I met a German lad who showed me around town
and since it was Sunday took me to see the famous Sunday Market. For
anyone that has read about Kuching, you may know this to be the place of
a few unlucky peoples untimely demise, as some have fallen off the
waterfront in the crocodile infested waters below. I always thought the
news was exaggerated when I read about the different traumatic events,
but the waterfront is actually quite scary as you can see the crocs
tearing apart any unfortunate animals that fall in. Aside from trying a
variety of tasty (and not so tasty) foods at the Sunday Market, I split
up with my new German friend and headed to Little India where I ended up
buying some Pau (a puffy chicken filled dough - had to explain in words
really) and a jacket, because as I quickly found out, Kuching only
varies between the two extremes of unbearable heat and pouring rain. I
spent most of Sunday just walking around asking the different vendors
what their top picks were and pulling a complete Andrew Zimmer haha,
trying anything from beef foot to bird's nest, chicken heart to shark
eyes, these people will seriously take any animal/part and hunker down.
The
next day, I woke up early and after much walking around, discovered
that I could get transport for about $7 USD to the Sarawak Cultural
Village, instead of the $60 USD that the different tour businesses were
trying to peddle. The Cultural Village was amazing as I got to meet and
interview a variety of tribes, most famous being the Iban Headhunters of
course, who I found to be quite warm and friendly haha, despite what
the history books have noted. However, every house still proudly
displays a net full of human skulls over the door with a fire forever
burning underneath to trap the wretched souls and not allow them onto
the next lifetime. On top of the spooky stuff, I got to not only
spectate but participate in a few musical performances, and so getting a
great amount of ethnomusicology information that has only boosted my
ambition to continue on with my ethnomusic studies. After walking around
for most of the day and finding some transport back into Kuching, I
walked around until I could find the most unusual looking restaurant in
town, sat down, and in my finest Malaysian asked for the chef's choice. A
few minutes later out comes a big pot of duck feather/peanut shop, with
an even bigger bowl of nasi topped with fresh duck meat. I'd never had
duck before, so I didn't know what to expect.. but amazing! I ended up
ordering more duck meat and would recommend that anyone else try the
famous duck peanut soup of Malaysia if you ever have the chance. The
only thing more famous than duck at this particular joint was cucumber
juice, and the owner obligated me into drinking about four of five
glasses haha, so I certainly met my cucumber quota that day. The rest of
the day was spent down on the waterfront, interviewing different people
about their past time and how their particular religion fits into that
(Kuching is a mix of Islam, Christianity, Taoist, Hindus, and a ton of
smaller "black magic" sects). I ended up meeting a lad named Zul and so
was able to get a great night city tour of all of the sites and kitties.
Oh ya, I should have mentioned earlier. In Malaysian, "kuching" means
cat and the city is named so because there are GIGANTIC cats on just
about every corner; with a few cat monuments in important city centers
and intersections.
On Tuesday, I put myself on a local bus to
Damai Beach, and wow wow.. incredible. The beach off the South China Sea
and out of the amazing beaches I've seen in Africa and Asia, this had
to be on top. The softest, most powder-like white sand I've ever seen,
with warm water, cool breeze. Total Corona commercial, if they ever
spread business into Southeast Asia, haha. I spent most of the day at
the beach and afterwards, tried skype-ing home, but had little luck of
anyone being awake with the sixteen hour time difference. After visiting
the Chinese Museum, I headed back to my spot, because of all things, I
had a date in Kuching to get ready for. Believe it or not ladies and
gentleman, apparently I can still catch boys sans makeup/brushed
hair/decent clothes. We went to the James Brooks Cafe (the white raja
for those that remember their history books) and tried a variety of
local food, which as you may know from reading, has got to the be the
hottest food on the planet. Afterwards, we went to the Piccadilli Pub
(Ozzie owned obviously) and I was treated to watching Korean business
man after man go up and shine as a karaoke master, talk about headache!
And of course the top song they all want to sing? Shania Twain's "I Feel
Like A Woman", naturally!
The following day, I went walkabout
and ended up scoring the jackpot. I was simply walking around a Hindu
Temple when all of a sudden, the high priest asks me the basics (where
I'm from, what I do, yadda yadda)... about twenty minutes later, I'm
sitting behind the Temple in lotus position with about a dozen men
enjoying fresh thosai, idli, and roti canai.. which I can only translate
as a savory pastry (pancake looking) with warm curry with a side of
cold, sweet, milk tea. Jesus, you'd think these people knew me. Had to
be the perfect combination of ingredients I like and if I ever end up on
death row, would be my choice of last supper! Not only were the men of
the Hindu Temple nice enough to feed me, but they let me hang out there
all day... doing casual interviews as we prepared the offerings
(apparently Krishna has a sweet tooth, because we cut up a ton of
bananas, plums, honey combs, etc) for worship as they were currently in
the season of the Aadipooram Festival, which is a ten day holiday asking
for protection of certain people on certain days (one day being police
day, the next being student day, etc). After a long, successful day at
the Temple, I had a smile plastered on my face on the way home and felt
like a fat and happy kid as I picked up a Boba Tea along the way. Talk
about the best day of my professional, better yet, personal life. And
following such a religious experience, I stepped into a Malaysian
Parlour (accidentally the happy ending type), but they pointed me in the
right direction and down the street was the 'regular' massage parlour
and I ended up getting candles stuck into my ears, lit, and then the
girl walked out without any kind of word, so I simply lay there
wondering what happens when my hair catches fire. Luckily, they have the
timing down and after about fifteen minutes, the girl returned, blew
out the candles, and pulled them out of my ears. Apparently the
procedure is done to draw all toxins out of the body/soul, but none of
that was explained to me until after I was sat down and had wax shoved
in my ear haha. I don't know if it actually did anything, but at least I
know that my ears are fire-retardant.
I really didn't want to
leave Kuching, I absolutely adore Malaysia, but I had to head back to
Denpasar to attend a Birthday party. I spent my last day in Sarawak
visiting a few more museums and having my last fill of chicken curry
before I snagged a taxi to the airport and headed back to Denpasar. But
of course, travelling in Asia is hit or miss. My flight was postponed
for a few hours but thankfully I got hooked up with a free meal ticket,
so I got to hang out with the pilots in the secret cafeteria, which made
me feel very VIP, hah. The rest of Thursday was spent with a cold
Bintang in hand,once I got back to Denpasar, and it's safe to say that
the birthday activities were quite exciting!
The next day I think
I slept in for the first time getting here, since I was wrecked tired
from walking from sun up to sun down everyday in Kuching, but after that
I got up on my bicycle and went for a nice long, penance type ride
through the mangroves to the opposite beach and back. What we'd call a
life changing bike ride haha. The rest of Friday was quite fun, it's
funny to say this but the people I've met in Sanur have become like
family to me, and even after only a few days away, we had a great time
catching up. I'm honestly a little worried about how homesick I'm going
to get when I leave here. Sad to say, but I really haven't missed the
states since leaving, aside from my family of course, I haven't really
longingly thought about anyone. Maybe moving here next year will be a
breeze after all. Anyway, back to Friday. Friday night I was invited to a
beach party in Sanur and well, had a great time. Can't really go into
too much detail, but drinks were drank and fun was had by all, haha...
we'll leave it at that.
I think I will also leave the blog at
that. Saturday and Sunday were mostly spent interviewing and tooling
around town on the bike as usual. But on Monday, I had the bright idea
to hop a bus from Denpasar to Yogyakarta. And I guess the cliff hanger
for the next blog will be that the bus ride here was fifteen hours. no
toilet. no stops. no food. and above all, no english speakers. Alright,
well I gotta go here, about to catch a Javanese performance tonight, but
I'll update the whole Yogyakarta adventure when I get back to Denpasar!
always.