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Krabi and Trang

THAILAND | Wednesday, 21 April 2010 | Views [1509]

Hello All,

Day 0. We decided on a fan room for 300 baht. Quiet location. Walked down to the night market which was near the river and ordered some food. Took too long after order and was average so will not be going back to that stall. We were a  little surprised that we were not near the beach and did a little research. Found that the beach area was actually about 20km away.

Day 1.  Found a travel shop recommended by Lonely Planet and hired a scooter. Headed to Ao Nang which had an average beach but some lovely karst island nearby. Went for a snorkel at one end of the beach but found that visibility was poor. Tried to hire a kayak from a resort but only for guests so gave up and went back to shore and went for a ride along coast on scooter. Followed signs to a fossil beach but decided that 200 baht each was too much to enter and sat down at a Muslim run cafe for some lunch. Met a German photographer who had previously lived in the area and had a good conversation before heading off for a ride north along the coast. Found a nice island near the shore and snorkelled around it with disappointing visibility and no coral. Got lost returning to Krabi town but eventually arrived. All roads lead to Krabi town!

Day2. Booked a 4 island trip. Pickup from hotel, full day trip and food. Barracuda tours. Very organised and fun as we had to board the wooden boat from the beach at Ao Nang in a mild swell. Chicken island, Tup Island (2 islands joined by sand), Poda island for lunch and then Phranag Cave back at the shore. The islands were amazing but the snorkelling was average. We did find a new type of fish for us. I call it a feather fish as it swims vertically and looks like a feather with the quil downwards towards the bottom. Odd. Plenty of pink jellyfish around and got stung across the face by an unseen tentacle. We think found that there were small thin jellyfish which were the culprits. Chilly lips from the rest of the day for me. Got stung again on the back of my neck later and Vanessa got one on her ankle. Seems jellyfish season is under way.

Poda island for lunch was an outstanding location. We had a couple of bottles of water which we put at the base of a cliff then and we went for a snorkel out off the beach.We found a sea cave that was literally filled to the brim with tens of thousands of small fish that shimmered as then drifted in the current it was an amazing sight and it captivated us for quite a while.When we return to the beach after snorkelling  we discovered that our  water bottles were  not where we had left them but instead were laying empty on the ground. A couple of Australian tourists were in the area looking up at some  monkeys and the only conclusion that we can draw is that we had been  robbed of our water by monkeys. Then we saw the monkey warning signs. We watched one of the male monkeys ripping the husk off a coconut as another relaxed on the rocks. One of the tourists bought an ice cream from a seller which aroused interest in the monkeys who narrowly missed making it their own. Robber monkeys you owe us some water. Spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Phrang cave and area. Got back to ao nang and the swell had picked up. A bit of fun getting off the boat and the asian tourists were having trouble. A couple were upended coming off another longtail boat and one unfortunately lost his wallet. We looked but could not see it in the surf.  

Day 3. This is great. We can visit great locations with free pickup on tours while having cheap accommodation. We were so impressed with the tour yesterday that we decided to go on the hong island group tour with barracuda tours. Cost 700 baht each. Longtail boat each. I thought yesterday was stunning but hong island area was much more beautiful. The snorkelling was terrible around Daeng island but we forgot about it when we got to vegetable(Rai?) island, Pakbia island and had lunch at Landing island. Went for a swim carefully avoiding  the jellyfish but missed one and got chilli lips again. Think my face was a little swollen from the sting in the evening. The sights got progressively better with beautiful beaches and clear water. Wow. Lastly we got to hong island which had a lagoon in the centre of it which we visited in the boat before heading around to a stunning beach on the outside of the island. Got back to Ao Nang and a bit of swell for the beach landing. Another great day out.

The wet season is coming. Each day we have had thunderstorms and lightening. It has rained every second day.

Day 4. Went for a scooter ride to the tiger temple. No way we were going to climb the mountain in 35 deg heat and high humidity. Sure the temple was in a great location but were are just not that dedicated. Took it easy for rest of the day and decided it was time to move again.

Day 5. Trip to Ko Libong island in search of dugong. Mini bus to Trang (90 baht pp) Mini Bus to Hat Yao (70 baht pp) Longtail boat to Ko Libong (60 bsht pp) Mototaxi to Resorts on west side of island 8km (100 baht pp). Sounds simple but not really. The bus to trang was easy. Then we got told we needed to go to the train station to catch the minivan too Hat Yao but after walking there, not finding the hat yao minivan, being confused by tuk tuk drivers trying  to help, we found a travel agent who told us to go to the minivan station not far away. Decided to take a tuk tuk so we didn't get lost but it was only a block away and cost us 50 baht. We bought some tickets and asked when the minivan was leaving. Driver said when 3 more people turned up so we decided it might take a while but it only took 15 minutes and we were on our way. Got to hat tao and found that we needed to catch a long tail boat to ko libong but had to wait an unknown amount of time. We got the call and loaded into a boat and a local even brought his scooter along getting a couple of helpers to lift it into the boat. Would have  been a nice ride to the island but for the covers that the locals pulled down to keep the spray from getting them damp. We arrived at Ko libong and found that the resorts were at the other end of the island and we needed to use mototaxis to get there. The island has a small Muslim community and we got the feeling that our money was welcome and we would be tolerated. We decided to have a look and put out big packs on, got the rider to wedge our bags in between their knees and the motorscooter and headed off. Got to the resort down after leaving the road and following a dirt path for about 1km and found it was very basic and a bit expensive. We went to a second and then a third resort which was closed. None of them could speak English well or explain how we could get to see the dugongs. Our idea was to kayak from the resort to the dugong area but they said it would take 2hrs to paddle to the area. We were not getting a good feeling about the place. The people on the island seemed to have dollar signs in their eyes and  we were a bit worried about being trapped in a remote end of the island so decided that we would just have to leave and head back to Trang. Once we got back to the wharf we had to wait and wait and wait  for the ferry back to Ko Tao. Then we had to wait and wait for the minivan, which turned out to be the last for the day, back to Trang. I was waiting for the bus to Trang at Hat Yao and was going for a pee beside a coconut palm when an heavy thud hit the ground next to me.A large coconut had fallen out of the palm and just missed me. A very close call. Falling coconuts kill a certain number of people each year and it is easy to see how it can happen now. We got half way along then changed to the drivers 4wd as the bus was locked up for the night. He gave us a lift to trang train station which was nice of him.

A bit of a waste of time and money but not all trips work out to our plans.

We figured we would easily find some accommodation nearby. To our surprise much of the accommodation was full for some reason and a friendly guest house manager pointed us in the direction of a nice air con hotel which unfortunately was full. We were walking out the front door and they called us back as they just had a telephone cancellation. Phew. We have not stayed in air-conditioned rooms for a while but decided to treat ourselves.

Wandered around and had a look at the Trang night markets and had an unsatisfactory meal at a dodgy cafe. On a positive side we found slushies again at the 7-11 store near the train station and had one on the way to the markets and on the way back to the hotel. We also purchased a nice hand made t-shirt at the market.

Day 6. Bus back to Krabi town and  staying overnight at A. Mansion. Hired scooter and went for a ride inland. Got lucky during the ride as heavy rain fell in places we had ridden and crossed again when we returned. Total distance was 130km round trip. Also booked trip to Ko Phi Phi.

Bye for now,

David and Vanessa

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