Hi All,
The local english paper, the moscow times (www.themoscowtimes.com), tells us that the temperature got to -30degC; 2 died of hypothermia; cash machines froze; ultra polar intrustions of air; electricity consumption pushed to a record; coldest weather since 2006; most frigid weather in December since 1997.
Temperature warmed slightly on the second day so before we went out this time we put on a thin polarfleece tracksuit over our thermals and under our normal clothing. This certainly improved our comfort in the cold but still after about 2hrs wandering around we still got cold.
Vanessa had her face covered and as a consequence her moist breath was being blown up her face and condensing on her eye lashes freezing them together.
We wandered down to the frozen moscow river for a better view of the kremlin and then walked over to the christ the saviour cathedral. Impressive. Cost 360 Million to rebuild after the communists buldozed the original and then the side eventually was turned into a swimming pool. It was our saviour as we warmed up inside for a while. Then it was off to the Tretyakov Gallery only to discover once inside that it was the new gallery with 20th century art. Bugger. Some of it was quite good. Then over for a look at gorky park which had many of it's roads purposedly covered with ice to turn it into a giant ice skating rink. Decided it was too cold to walk back so caught the metro. Wow. The metro moves 9 Million people a day! We got a peak hour sample.
Next day. Went for a look around at Metro stations. They are works of communist art and many on the main ring are worth viewing. There is even a lenin bust in one. Then it was off to the correct Tretyakov Gallery which was amazing. I really like the old paintings as they often capture every day life images as if they were photographs recording the past.
Next day. Decided to go for a day trip to Sergiev posad to the trinity monastery of St Sergius.
My first chance to try buying a train ticket in Russia. Got off the metro and was stumbling already. Couldn't find the train station and was getting frustrated. Found a map and then tweeked that 'ya' was a backwards 'R' in Russian. Once inside couldn't make any sense of the train timetable so got in a queue for a ticket and eventually got dismissed 'nyet' (no) and pointed over to somewhere in the unseen distance. We wandered in the direction and found a local train ticket window and I used my crappy Russian with success to the unemotional girl behind the window. Even better was that I deciphered the train board and found a train to get us to Sergiev Posad in about 15min and we raced over to the platform and onto the very basic unpadded bench seat train carriage. So off we went on our 1.5hr journey for 4 Aud each keeping a lookout for the station sign. Nice trip. Snow covered trees. Wooden houses; some traditionally carved. We found our station and got off and it was pretty easy to figure out where the monastery was without a map. The domes were visible from the station. There was a supermarket near the station so we grabbed some lunch and headed off on our 20min walk. Then into the monastery grounds. Still cold. Think it was -18 deg C so our toes were getting a little cold and the breeze was cutting on our unprotected skin.
We entered the monastery ground. Monastery is active so plenty of monks wandering around. Went into the Cathedral of the Assumption with it's inside walls covered with paintings. Impressive. Then off to a smaller church with a service being held with lovely vocals from the priest and some local women. Spent a few more hours looking around before heading back to the train station and round two buying tickets.
This time got in queue and then told in Russian it was the wrong window and I needed to get the tickets from the next window. Doh. My mistake. got the ticket without any hassle but a weird looking guy stood there right next to me with a desperate look in his eyes. I gave him a mean stare and told him to 'get away from me wierdo'. Turned out he was a begger.
Enjoying people watching on the train. One marvelous aspect was that instead of 'infommercials' there were people turning up with sales pitches at the front of the carriage every couple of minutes. Very entertaining. Maybe a compass? no. perhaps some christmas decorations? no. perhaps some religious books? no. an atlas? Not directed at us but the carriage in general.
We were watching a young woman with a coat that made her looked like a black bear. No she was pretty and vain. Maybe she was someones honey bear? we made up the story. As the trip went along she put on her makeup then the hair was combed then the mobile rang and her face dropped. She got such a sulky look on her face. Stood up? perhaps. Another Grumpy bear with a green scarf woke up with a sour look on her face and stormed off the train when we arrived at Moscow. Too much broken sleep on the train we think... We thought so and so it is when we make up the story. Well it kills the time on the train for us. The simple pleasure of life.
Bye,
David and Vanessa
