Hola All,
Just back from 7 days out in Torres del paine NP. We had the intention of walking the full circuit but the track was closed due to avalanche so walked the W circuit. We also hoped to walk to the zapata glacier for another couple of days but decided that US$20 per person for a one way 18km vehicle trip was a ripoff so returned to Puerto Nateles.
The park was all that we expected and more. The weather...well it was the worst of weather then the best of weather...
day 1. Woke up to the whole building shaking due to strong wind. Park is 150km away so probably better there right? catch bus in driving rain and wind and it gets worse the closer to the park. Arrive at park. 5min out of the bus and we are totally soaked. We can see nothing but the lower section of the mountains and the wind is kicking spray off the lake. We visit the waterfall nearby before catching the catamaran across the lake to the starting point. Just getting onto the boat is a challenge. The lake has a 1.5m swell running and it is more like the ocean. 1hr later we head off on 11km walk. We get smashed by the driving, gusting wind. Having to just stand and brace at times. Our heads our down as there is ice in the wind and it stings our faces if we look up. I wonder how we are going to put up the tent at the camping location. During the way I get picked up and thrown into the bushes by the wind. This wasn`t fun at all. Found that the track was washed away at the campsite we intended going so had to backtrack 1 hr. Hear a large avalnche very close. Maybe it was the glacier moving? Got to the camp site in fading light and put up the tent. Got inside out of the rain both soaked. No food. No pictures. It sucks.
day 2. Still raining but the wind isn`t so bad. Vincent and Anika, the dutch couple we intend to walk with are at the campsite. We walk out near the gray glacier. The filtered light brings out the strong blue colour in the ice. There are icebergs in the lake. Nice. It is still cold and the rain turns to snow. We meet Vincent and Anika at the ravine. We decide not to go as the weather is too bad and there is a high mountain pass covered with snow. They continue on. We hope things go well for them. Vanessa is sick so we return to the camp and stay in the tent for the rest of the day. For some reason some german girls had camped right next to us even though the camping ground was large....and they are noisy. The rain eases a little late afternoon so we have cook a hot meal before retreating back to the tent.
day 3. The rain has stopped and there is no wind and the clouds are clearing. Can actually hear the lake water lapping on the shore. Break camp really early with a lot of noise. revenge is sweet german girls. Heading to Camp italiano 16km away. Weather improves and it is a delightful lake walk. Actually could see the mountains and the extent of the glacier. The sun hits the top of the mountain causing moisture to rise from it. Spectacular. Two condors start to rise as the sun warms the air. It takes longer than we expect to get to the refugio at lake pehoe. It doesn`t matter. No wind, sun and blue skies. Second leg for the day. Quite worn out by the end and reach the campsite with not much energy left. Crossing the river by the campsite on a swingbridge we look on one side to a 3000m mountains covered with snow and dominated by a glacier and in the other direction there is a large lake and snowcapped mountains in the distance. Nice campsite under the trees. Nice warm tea. Seemed to have amagamated the pasta with the saucepan! Maybe less heat next time. Takes a lot of cleaning. The german girls rock into camp and look at the campsite next to us. I just stand and stare at them. They move on.
day 4. Camp Italiano again. Weather is great. Day walk trying to get to camp britanico in the valley. Lots of avalanche activity on the mountain as the sun melts the snow. Amazing views of the glacier and lovely forest walk along a river. Didn`t make the camp as the snow about 1hr into the walk slowed us down. Got to a clearing of the trees and views of the towers. Have not seen a mountains like it before. Walk down to the glacier terminal face on the way back and walk along the river along a well used but unmarked track. Had been getting a wet left foot during the trip for some reason and ended up with a `dishpan` foot. Found that I has broken yet another pair of scarpa boots. That makes it 3 broken pairs now so I have to try another brand. Scarpa have a lifetime warranty so I will get the boots replaced sometime...
day 5. 23km walk. Beautiful but long lake walk to another valley. Mirror lakes. Walking along lake nordenskjold which is pale green. We can clearly see the torres del paine masif as we walk. Lovely waterfalls. black and white pebble beach. Arrive at a refugio and can`t find the next section of track. Eventually someone helps us and we are on our way again. I run out of energy and we have to stop. Vanessa feeds me up and we rest for 30 min. All fine. It is really hot today. Enter the next valley. Quite different to the others. Steep morraine slopes with the track running along. The path rises and rises. Don`t really want this near the end of the walk. Follow a river far below. Eventually we find the refugio and camping ground. It is crowded but the noise of the river is nice. Notice as I cross the bridge over the river that I feel like going to the toilet then as we move away the feeling goes...hmmm.
day 6. 10km day walk. Didn`t rise early for the sunrise at the towers of paine. Another great day. No wind and a few clouds. Headed off at 8am as the early risers were getting back. Bit of a scramble up to the lake and base of the towers at 750m. The wasn´t a great sunrise and the top of the towers were covered. Within 10min of arriving at the towers the clouds cleared and we had the place to ourselves. The lake was frozen but no so much that one could walk on it. The silence was broken every now and then by the rocks rolling down the steep slopes as they break free from the snow holding them. Returned to camp and spend a lazy afternoon just relaxing. Vincent and Anika walked into camp late in the afternoon. They spotted me and came across to the camp to let us know they were alright. Turned out that there were 3 ravines to cross each worse than the other; the snow on the pass was waste deep; and Vincent had proposed at the pass! They had even found puma prints on the snow. They also were glad that we were alright as they were concerned that we had followed a day later. Not us. We weren`t so enthusiastic.
day 7. Up early and walking down to the nearest hotel/refuge to catch the link bus to the main road 2hr walk. lovely. Weather overcast but no wind. Bus at 9am. 7.5km and US$5 each. Next bus from the link to NP admin via pohoe lake catamaran dropoff. So this is what day 1 should have looked like! beautiful green mirror lakes. The mountains to the side. Guanacos (llama like animals) on the side of the road. Got to NP admin and found that the bus to the gray refugio would cost us US$20 each for a 18km trip. We declined. Extortionists. Headed back on the same bus to Puerto Natales.
Bad news for us. Our second camera is now on it´s last legs with a lens problem. The dreaded E18 error. This is the second camera with this problem. The first was a canon IS s3 and the second a canon IS s2. So we might have to purchase a new camera soon. The lens does not zoom at the moment. We had to baby it through the torres del paine NP.
Back at Erratic Rock hostel for 2 nights. Pizza followed by hamburger last night. Pretty hungry (piggy?).
Found out that the navimag ship, on which we came from puerto montt, has been in port getting a motor overhaul. It left on schedule after dropping us off but returned 2hrs later to puerto natales with a broken motor. So it seems changing the date was a good choice. fate?
Not sure about our next move. Ushuaia maybe...
Adios,
David & Vanessa
