Hola All,
Como Estas?
Something important from La Paz that Vanessa just reminded me about again. South America is such a learning experience. Went to the hairdresser for a bit of a haircut. I say what comb is that? he says tres (3) which is not too short. After the haircut he might as well have finished off with a polish as the comb was at best a 1. Vanessa finds it amusing. Wait until she gets a haircut.
So we treated ourselves with a taxi from Sucre to Potosi at 150 bolivianos (US21) for a 2.5hr trip. Was a fast trip with wannabe rally driver Samuel. The road was challenging and at one stage two trucks in parallel drove us off the road. No problem for Samuel. Even with lightning and heavy rain/sleet he didn't take his foot off the accelerator. The mail or should that be the human cargo must get through! Was good and a big relief to get to Potosi quickily.
Our accomodation was locked when we arrived and no one was coming. The door buzzer didn´t seem to work and we had to used the old knockers on the solid door and yell through the letterbox for some action. Finally checked in with the room being quite adequate apart from the most unusual toilet/shower arrangement. The shower and toilet were combined with no shower screen and exposed wires. Hmmm. Water was hot? or was that live buzz hot? No towels and no toilet paper. Old spanish residence or convent it seems. Was lovely and quiet and warm with the 5 blanket and a doona.
Potosi mine tour. Not for woosies or whimps according to koala tours. Quite true. Ever wondered how the miners in the gold mines in Australia in the 1850s worked? go to potosi as nothing much has changed.
We donned our protective clothes - gum boots, overalls, hardhats and electric mine lamp. We also had bandanas for breathing protection. Dropped in to the shops and collected our dynamite (yes true) and bags of coca leaves and headed off to the refining plant. OH&S? not necessary it seems. Quite ancient. Much safer now - used to use mercury and now is cyanide ;-)
Next stop was the mine. It was originally run by the spanish and the intial stonework was from the 1550s and probably the neatest part of the mine. We walked down the entrance tunnel (adit) along the rail tracks for about 50m having to climb to the side to avoid being run over by carts full of 2tonnes of ore being pulled by workers. Met the devil statue or whoever the miners worship and gave them a 96% alcohol drink before also having a swig ourselves. Throat burner. Next crawled and slid from the first level to the third level. Slippery and dangerous running next to a shaft. Watched old men load ore into a rubber bucket which was hauled up to the first level. The ore was warm and some chunks watermellon size. There must be a lot left. The miners probably only make 100 bolivanos a week for their effort.
Too bad most of the miners only make 45 yrs of age due to lung disease. Easy to see why with the toxic dirt in the air including asbestos. We kept our noses and mouths covered for protection but that made it hard to breath and we still have hoarse throats.
Oh the dynamite. We gave most away to the miners but blew 2 sticks up outside the mine. Boooooom.
Ran into the Kumuka people we just left in the miners markets. Small world.
Bloody ATM ate one of our cards this afternoon. Had to go into the bank to get it retrieved and then withdraw the money inside. For the pleasure the bank charged us 10 bolivianos. For our pleasure we stole one of their pens. Vanessa claims that I did but she was involved.
Pics will follow when we find a computer with an accessible USB port!
Heading to Uyuni again tomorrow morning.
Adios,
David & Vanessa
