Hola Amigos,
An all so familiar drive from Cuzco toward Puno. Most of the way was backtracking along the same road to Arequipa. Long drive about 14hrs.
Puno. Located on lake titicaca. Highest navigatable lake in the world. Think of these claim. Highest empty lake? bluest lake? roundest lake? Finally found a decent bread shop not far from the hotel - cheese bread. Little did we know that we should not have been loading up on carbs.
Loaded into a pedal tuk tuk. We selected the smallest rider for some reason. Maybe just to make him sweat. Vanessa is like that...
Headed out on the ss minow (not really) to be dropped out on the island. Boat went slower than i can swim and broke its stearing rope so the captain had to steer the rudder directly with a piece of pipe.
Visited the famous reed islands, uros. Ate some reed ends - natures toothbrush apparently. These islands are a version of my cousins carpet shop in india and although authentically built are just WAY TOO touristy.
Went to an island, isla amantani, on the lake for a home stay with a native family. They spoke Cuenca and a little spanish and we spoke english and a little less spanish. Quite uncomfortable really. Worse for the others who spoke no spanish. Simple kitchen setup. Adobe brick. Open clay fire in one corner and a stove in another. Table on the other side. No power only candles. Cooking with pottery. Helped prepare lunch. Potatos. Lunch at 3pm. Potato soup. 4 varieties of Potatos, rice, carrot and cheese. Nice and filling. Soccer with the locals at almost 4000m. Beat them. 4-3. I scored the winning goal with a superb stike bouncing off the crossbar. More luck than skill. Walk up to the top of the island for the sunset. Inca ruins on top. Snowcapped mountains in the distance.
Dinner in dim candle light. Amelia, daughter, 16yrs, spoke a little english so it made life a bit easier. Guess what? potatos again. potato soup. potatos and rice. Simple. Actually was quite pleasant sitting at the dinner table showing pictures of the world.
Lucky for us that we got a good family. Someone got an smokey kithen with open fire and cooking in a paint tin!
We took some supplies for the family. Pasta, evaporated milk & Apples. Also gave Amelia a tackly little koala with an australian flag. She seemed to like it. Probably just being polite.
Mother, sarefina, Father, feliciana stone mason. Simple country people.
We sat as the mother, half asleep, sitting on a stool, leaning on the adobe wall of the kitchen, next to the fire, as the candlelight flicked, corrected the daughter as she counted in spanish backward as part of her homework. A particularly special moment for us.
Our family were houseproud. We slept upstairs in our own solid but comfortable beds. It was soooooo quiet.
No rest. We were dressed in the local dress. Vanessa probably thought? does my bum look big in this? The local skirts were 3 layers. Certainly not slimming black. Actually was alpaca, purple warm and heavy. Also a shawl and a white embroided shirt plus a waistbelt. David just a simple alpaca poncho and a beanie. The locals are 4ft nothing...by the way. Did we look stupid? yes!
Went to the local dance. Dancing with Amelie and her mother. Vanessa also with the former. Group dance in a circle holding hands with plenty of flinging. Local demonstration of traditional dance. We left soon after. Amelie had school in the morning, looked tired. Walks 40min each way to school.
Visited another island, isla taquile, where we walked to the top and discovered that in this world only real men knit. Their day is occupied by knitting in the town square. They can keep their world. I just want quiche.
Currently sitting on a wobbly first floor internet cafe in la paz as we write this entry. Think that the floor is well overloaded. 1.5 bolivianos per hr (US 1.5/7 per hr). 10 terminals. No air. Lots of people playing games. Air is thin outside but thick in here. Maybe too much onion in their diet?
Adios,
David & Vanessa
